Should I buy this bus?!? '74 Campmobile

[SamboSamba22]

[SamboSamba22]

Well today upon leaving a Volkswagen gathering about an hour from the house, I started to hear a rumble'baffling from the rear of the bus. Pulling off of the road, when applying the brakes the pedal had up and down pressure, never weak just a baffling of what felt like vacuum varying through the brakes.
RPM's were extremely high, making me one anxious and two, difficult to shift as the rpm's caused surges in engine revving. NOT what you want to experience with an hour drive home, let alone on a 96* day.
Thoughts? Indeed a bad brake booster servo??? Pulling irregular vacuum from the engine, causing all kinds of chaos?


Any causes for surges in applied brakes and irregular RPM's other than a bad brake booster?

Who has good quality replacement units???
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The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[kooper271]

I had the same issue with surging brakes. Fixing a vacuum leak in the engine compartment solved it for me

[Tcash]

Check S boot and hoses.

Plug the fitting at the engine and see if high idle goes down.
Yes. Booster or hose bad.
No. Booster and hose not the problem.

If yes next plug the hose at the booster.
Idle goes down booster bad.
Idle stays high, hose or check valve bad.

New Boosters. Read this.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=583610&highlight=wolfsburg+boost%2A

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?...=211611905
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211612103

Good luck
Tcash

[SamboSamba22]

Took the time to remove the air cleaner and hoses to assess the engine, the vacuum lines, and the overall visual health of the engine.
Check the torque on the spark plugs with good order...BAM!
Cylinder one side of the intake manifold, the nut had backed off the manifold, and upon tightening the nut, proved what I expected and feared, the stud is stripped inside the cylinder head, and I was able to remove the stud just by twisting it out with my fingers...
Looks like I’ll be pulling the engine out soon. A bummer, perhaps I should track down some decent heads?
Address the slight oil drip coming from the fuel pump, flywheel front seal, and take the time to clean up and replace some seals on the transaxle.
Sucks, but everything can be checked and cleaned up. Perhaps remove the valves and guides, clean up the heads, tap the messed up intake stud and put it all back together.

Big Show is the end of August, I better get after it.
(Still pretty sure my Brake Servo is going out)
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The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[SamboSamba22]

Dropped the engine and transmission last night, since I couldn’t get the access to the busted cylinder head intake stud.

It’s a lot easier dropping the engine WITH the transmission.

Removed the transmission to clean up and refresh the 091.

Lots of scrubbing, scrapping crud, degreasing to replace some seals and bushings in the nose cone and the bell housing.

Also removed the shift rod linkage, cleaned up the rod (that long is ridiculously long), sanded it up, regressed the shaft and got things buttoned back up. Replaced the rear most coupling bushing, hopefully the shifting will be even a smudge better, it’ll be worth the time.

Access lead to swapping out the fuel sending unit. I attempted to repair the original one a few years back, but it wasn’t successful. I was thinking it could’ve been the resistor in the dash, but that checks out. Hopefully, I’ll get some readings with a a new unit.

Took the time to clamp the vent line hoses onto the hardlines, little things I skipped 3 years ago, to correct now since I know better these days.

Reference sheets I copied from Ratwell pages.

ASS UP!!!

I’ll eventually get to the engine issues in the upcoming days, tracking down the items needed for the Time-sert for the intake stud.
I’m also going to replace the crankshaft seal, along with the flywheel seal.

Stayed tuned folks, happy summer days!
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The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[SamboSamba22]

Took some time today to remove the flywheel and clutch to discover a very present leak, glad I popped it off.

I cleaned up the case, and left the old seal in for the time being, waiting on the arrival of a new quality seal.

Replaced the input shaft seal, so that’ll dry up the nasty leak it had before dropping, I never removed the transmission a few years ago and discovered what I suspected to be the original VW seal from ’74.

Also changed out the starter bushing, because why didn’t I do this three years ago??? You can actually see the dimensional wear on the old unit on the right.

Swapped out the rear shift coupling, any benefit to this upgrade I doubt much felt improvement but a German VW item replacement, might as well change since I have access.

The main reason for dropping the powertrain was the INTAKE STUD popping out of cylinder head on #1, got a Heli-coil installed and a new stud, were in business.

I also discovered that I forgot there was a crappy, loose step-stud on #4 intake, so I sourced a new M10 step-stud and fixed that too, the intake manifolds are now installed nice and tightly, something that never was quite right years ago with the initial overhaul, it’s amazing and really, embarrassing, all the little important stuff you skip over when bringing something back to life.
Lessons learned, and hopefully correctly some issues that good ole Pushpop will appreciate.

Not the prettiest powerhouse, but we’ve traveled about 8k miles the past couple years, and I’ve been grateful for every single one.
More to come, halfway to the weekend you guys, happy cruising!
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[Tcash]

3 years time flies.
Inspect and lube the Pilot bearing,
Remove clean and lube the clutch operating (cross) shaft and inspect the clutch lever for cracks or stipped splines. Clean the input shaft splines, lube with anti seize and wipe off any excess. Lube the clutch cable wear it goes through the Bowden tube, adj Bowden tube.
Inspect the clutch pedal clutch cable lever, lube clutch cable contact area.

You may need to adjust the shifter stoplate after replacing the shift coupler.

Happy shifting
Tcash

[notchboy]

Good to see you swing back around on this brother. Fix all that stuff you newbed the first time

Keep up the good work!
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[Wasted youth]

Nice going!

I was so impressed with the performance of the shifter assembly on my 1977 after pulling it all apart and replacing all the bushings, and the hockey stick parts. After doing all that work, I had a bus that I could shift with two fingers. Just amazing! First ever for me... you’re going to love it!

Your bus just keeps getting better and better. All those tedious little tasks you described just make it that much more dependable. Thanks for posting the good pictures of your work.

[SamboSamba22]

Took the tips from Tcash, and swapped out the pilot bearing, which upon popping it out of the crank, I could see the wear, now the missing spline, i don’t know if it was gone before pulling it out or not.

Boy, it makes such a hell of a difference having the proper tools, thanks to my friend Bob (Bob’s Foreign Car).

Replaced the flywheel o-ring and “front is front” main seal, I still have to reinstall the mechanical fuel pump as I removed it due to a relentless little drip.

I have the crank pulley seal to replace behind the fan, and I should have a buttoned up motor to remate to the transmission, install the pair back into the bus, fill up with fluids, and reattach the CV joints, plump up the electrics, run new fuel lines, add fuel to my fuel gauges tank (fingers crossed) and fire it up, smiling and styling my way to wherever the next adventure arises.
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The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[Clatter]

The envy just courses through by entire body when I see this tool.

Every minute is going to be hard to live without one of my own..



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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[mr matt]

No sound from the pilot bearing missing a bearing?


Nice job!
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1955 3-fold semaphore Oval beetle
1971 Convertible beetle
1977 Westfalia, FI, Berlin interior

[SamboSamba22]

Well I’ve been successful and discovered an issue!

I have the engine and transmission back in the bus, and upon adjusting the shift linkage, am unable to locate any gears. I was thinking sure, Tcash was right I’ll just adjust the shift stop plate and we’ll be golden. Not the case. I mean I cannot find a single gear.

When I start the bus with the clutch in, I can ease out of the clutch and the bus well drive forward, not really “peppy” enough for 1st but perhaps 2nd or 3rd, its a very slow and weak push forward. I can achieve this movement regardless of the orientation of the shifter, I am unable to find or even get close (grind noise if I was close to the outskirts of a gear) while the bus is running as well.

What in the HELL am I experiencing? I removed the transmission nose cone to replace the seal, I also replaced the shaft bushing and seal, and it has fresh Stalube 85w90 GL-4 in it.

In the event that I have to remove the nose cone to excess what’s going on internal, am I able to do so with the engine and transmission still installed? Where could my geometry be off that is causing me not to be able to select gears???

Thanks for the help guys, this is so crappy, I’m trying to stay positive.
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[Tcash]

[TomWesty]

[SamboSamba22]

After a long ass day, a second motor and transmission drop in a week, it was discovered that the nose cone bushing wasn’t allowing the hockey stick to travel through the nose cone. It states in the Bentley that the new bushing may need to be reamed to allow for proper clearance/operation of the linkage.

Sure wish I read that prior to assembly. Also noted that my ball (bearing on the hockey stick) is metal, not the original plastic. So perhaps someone’s been in there years ago. The motor was rebuilt in ‘89.

Bus is running, driving well, no longer drops in RPM’s, and no longer dieseling when shutting off, still need to make some carb adjustments with the idle, timing is good, as well as adjust the shift stop plate, and perhaps another turn or two on the clutch cable. All in time.
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[Tcash]

Glad you got it sorted out.

Dig out the Monkey Wrench and set the clutch play at the cross shaft lever.

Good luck
Tcash

[SamboSamba22]

[Abscate]

That pilot bearing is so over-built you wouldn't even miss that missing roller.

When I did my P2 clutch,most of the release bearing rollers were down in the transmission case - the car still drove and clutched fine.
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.ssS!