Should I buy this bus?!? '74 Campmobile

[Wasted youth]

Sometimes a man’s time is worth way more than the things he is messing with, sometimes it’s the other way around. With that in mind... if changing heads on a bus engine is easier on you than waiting/saving for a full expensive rebuild, then go that way.

Seems to me you’ve got a fairly worn out engine. Putting expensive heads on it as it sits now makes little sense to me. Put expensive heads on it if and when you decide to break the case down and do a full, expensive build.

Put the Cheap Bus Depot rebuilt heads on it, run it. Expect to do the work again sooner than you’d like... another set of gaskets, more down time. Screw people who say you’re being a cheapskate. It’s not their time or money.

Or... put the bus on minimal operating hours, and start saving up for that really expensive Type 4 custom build.

[SamboSamba22]

Ring the Alarm!!! Update time!

Sooooo, after muc delay and procrastination, well really just business with life, work, and businesses, I picked up a low mileage 76 GE 2.0 engine from a friend of mine.
Pistons and cylinders came in a couple days ago, and the heads I pulled off, I picked up last Friday from a true VW machine guy, and all is good to go on the original cylinder heads. All is waiting on me to pick up a rebuild gasket kit, a flywheel seal, inspect the oil pump for wear, and button back up the top end. FINALLY!

Now my current engine is 1.8, and simply put, worn out. My intentions are to completely disassemble the original motor, and using quality parts, make it into a strong 2.0L.

Ready to get camping, and truly just driving the bus again, nothing like cold mornings bouncing down in a bus.


Now all nonsense aside, I have a fuel delivery question. Original motor being supplied by a mechanical pump will have to be replaced with an electric pump as the 76 casting doesn't have an opening for a mechanical pump.
What am I looking for guys, and any insight with fuel delivery and regulator stuff is encouraged.

I'm currently planning on swapping over my 34 PDSIT carbs onto the 2 liter, anyone have any feedback or encouragement to run something else??

Hope everyone is grooving right along, happy and healthy.
-Sam
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[white74westy]

[Spike0180]

Ive read a lot about the carb options. I ended up going with Weber IDF's, mostly for availability of parts and knowledge. I'm not disappointed though I do need better linkage (mine is utter crap). Lots of people swear by the dellorto's though. I like my IDF's. Benefit of stock is chokes (I think?) and the Bentley is applicable.
_________________
Brutis Patches Izabich: 1970 VW Transporter - 1776cc DP
Current State: Projects never truly end...
Location: Grosse Pointe, Michigan
Other cars: 2003 F150, 2003 Jetta GLI vr6-6sp

Sambastic: adj; the quality of being nit picky, elitist, expecting everyone to do things the way they believe is best with no regard to situation, "sambastic"

[orwell84]

[SamboSamba22]

[SamboSamba22]

[orwell84]

Sorry missed that...too much multitasking...

[Clatter]

Sounds like you are on the right track...!

Because I'm an old curmudgeon who suspects every bus motor i see anymore,
If that were mine,
I'd be splitting the case to inspect and re-seal.
If everything is good, then great, all you are in for is a gasket set and some time.

Aircooler motors just LOVE to be cleaned of the years' grease and grime.
Once they can shed the heat instead of being sealed in an insulating layer of muck,
They seem to thank you for it in reliability, power, and efficiency.
So at least clean the thing outside really well..


Those 2.0 motors, if used in a bus, have a few things that tend to cause issues (aside from the heads).

Rod bearings and cam/lifters would be the first things to check.
Rod bearings being cheap enough, why not have a fresh set put in now?

Putting in a Web 86 or 73 would be a fun thing to do if the cam was worn.

Mains tend to last a long time, so they are likely to be good..


Even with a bit more cam, your factory PDSITs should be fine for your 2.0 if they are in good shape.


I would also be using your early heater boxes,
As they are known to run cooler than the later style found on the 2.0.
Especially with a T-Bird or copy header..

First choice for a fuel pump i would say CB/Carter rotary.
They are nice and quiet.
Even though they are supposedly self-regulating,
IME, they will still need a regulator.
My vote goes to the Holley vs. the flying saucer regulator.


So ther's my $.02. Take it FWIW..

Always enjoy seeing you post on this thread, as you're doing a great job.
Every bus should be so lucky!
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Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[SamboSamba22]

Clatter,
Always good to hear from you sir, thank you for the thorough and thoughtful information.

As of right now, aside from wisdom and practice, I am going to leave the 2L case alone, button the top end, and complete the swap to get the bus moving this winter for camping/spring. The original 1.8 will be getting split, shipped to Rimco for cleaning and line-boring, to have new reputable components in it, to build a nice motor for more worry-free miles.
With the holidays upon us, I am not short either of additional expenses, and certainly not complaining either, as I am fortunate enough to have friends and family to buy such gifts for this Christmas, I'll have to keep my bus-buying parts list at a minimum.

I truly hope everyone had a great Thanksgiving, and with Black Friday yesterday at work being less hectic and a cluster, I hope that's a sign of more than folks turning to buying online, but rather a change in perspective that these days are about love, family, and friends.

Happy Cruising guys,

Sam
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[SamboSamba22]

Checking in with the status of the bus, started to button up the 2L engine I picked up and tore down.
Here is the bus bottom up for the third time in 6 months, dropping the tired 1.8 AW engine that is original to the bus with a 1 and half rebuild in its life.
Putting her to the side to split and build up when the time is right.

Make note you hungry fellas, this isn't ramen I'm seen here bleeding and priming the hydraulic lifters prior to installation.

Checked deck height, washed components from AA Pistons with laundry detergent, inspecting the alignment of the rings, which to my surprise not only are the new castings sported an "AA" badge, but the rings were spaced and opposing of one another correctly.
Arrows to the flywheel - check.
Had the heads inspected and cleaned up with worked valves, and on they went.
Used a feeler gauge to check the endplay, we're in spec. Then commenced changing out seals...think it leaked?

Not quite complete, installed pushrod tubes (install underneath head engine tin prior to installing tubes), pushrods, torqued rocker assemblies, spark plugs, ran valves (yes, they're hydraulic, still need to adjust them with initial setup; per Wilson build book, "just when they touch the valve, plus 2 additional turns".
Distributor installed, cleaned up the still nicely painted engine tin from my 1.8, installed the thermostat, pulley with special bolt (add grease), installed the oil filter arm, primed the Mahle filter with half a quart of oil and called it a night.

Tonight after work will consist of installing oil cooler and seals, installing pilot bearing, flywheel shims, o-ring and gasket, and the flywheel itself.
Continuing with installing engine tin, transferring cooling flaps onto the GE fan housing and installing the housing itself. Oil fill tube with special boot (sneak a ziptie on it too), alternator, cooling fan, belt, fan guard...do we have enough time???

_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[SamboSamba22]

Got off work. Five hours few by, and after swapping over parts, adding some new ones, fan housing, alternator, engine mounts, engine tin and various other small items, I called it an night.
Stuff got done. I think.

_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[SamboSamba22]

Curiosity occurred last night, so here's a question for those in the know of type 4 bus information.
Installed the flywheel last night, which was the original flywheel I removed off of the 2L when I tore it down, but when I went to install the clutch pressure plate, there were 3 dowel pins facing off of the flywheel preventing the application of my original clutch.
Below you can see the identifies on this particular flywheel.

So since I am using my original transmission, and know that my 1.8L flywheel worked with my transmission and clutch, I pulled the flywheel off the old engine and installed it to the 2L.
Note that with these different numbers, this flywheel lacks the pins, allowing for the clutch to be installed.

Anyone have any insight about these differences? Note that the first flywheel I posted is was the original to the 2L, I'm not sure whether that bus was manual or automatic, but just behind the circumference of the teeth there is a groove or line that does not exist on my 1.8L flywheel.
Just curious. looking to install engine and transmission back into the bus in the upcoming days.
Thanks,
Sam
_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[SamboSamba22]

For future reference, the answer to my above question regarding the flywheel differences is simple due to VW uses a larger, “heavier duty” flywheel when they bumped up the 1.8 to 2.0 and switched the transmission from the 002 to the 091. Simple answer.

Hopefully have the bus running and moving for camp outings soon!

I remember once, long ago a beat up and crummy bus...

_________________
The Bus Barn Ltd. Co.

Oct. ’67 Double Cab (’68 Crew Cab)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44412.png]Click to view image[/URL]
March '69 Delivery (Panel Bus)
[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-44414.png]Click to view image[/URL]

[busdaddy]

Sorry I didn't see this sooner, I hope you used your 74 flywheel, the later one uses a bigger clutch disc and different bellhousing and starter.
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Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[KentABQ]

WTF, Sam?!?...

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2243810
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"

"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea

Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM

[tommu]

Oh, that’s a shame. I was enjoying this thread.

I’ve almost put both my Bus and Ghia on the market several times. Always glad I didn’t.

Hope there’s no serious personal reason for the sale..
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[Wasted youth]

Shit happens.

[SamboSamba22]

[SamboSamba22]