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DAV!D
Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2013
Posts: 979
Location: EL CAMINO
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 Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 2:35 pm Post subject: 86 Syncro clutch slave cylinder |
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My clutch slave cylinder just started leaking and I want to confirm the 2wd and 4wd versions are the same before I order..
I looked it up on Gowesty and it says both are the same model.. This seems strange to me, because I remember when I did my engine and Syncro transaxle swap to my 2wd van, I had to use my Syncro slave cylinder because something was diffrent.
I remember there was something with the 2wd slave cylinder that wouldn't work. Can anyone confirm this before I order? Maybe it was just the hose that was diffrent, but for the life of me I can't remember.
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86 Syncro Build - Ecotec Motor Swap - Pop Top Conversion - Camper Build & Syncro Conversion |
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syncrodoka
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Joined: December 27, 2005
Posts: 12005
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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| Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 3:06 pm Post subject: |
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| Same same |
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pbrown
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Joined: July 15, 2008
Posts: 443
Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 3:25 pm Post subject: |
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Same part. PITA to replace. Drop the rear engine mount bar and hang on longer bolts to make access MUCH easier. Also look into the Burley hose kit.
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Patrick Brown
1986 Westy Syncro EJ25
Flickr --> https://flic.kr/s/aHsmQNUXEF |
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DAV!D
Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2013
Posts: 979
Location: EL CAMINO
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| Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 3:58 pm Post subject: |
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| pbrown wrote: |
| Same part. PITA to replace. Drop the rear engine mount bar and hang on longer bolts to make access MUCH easier. Also look into the Burley hose kit. |
Yea, I remember the bolt closest to the engine is a real winner. I had planned to weld the nut in place when I did my engine and trans swap, but forgot to actually do it, when I put everything together.. I'm betting I'll very much regret that mistake now..lol
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pbrown
Samba Member
Joined: July 15, 2008
Posts: 443
Location: Seattle, WA
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| Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 4:28 pm Post subject: |
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| DAV!D wrote: |
| Yea, I remember the bolt closest to the engine is a real winner. I had planned to weld the nut in place when I did my engine and trans swap, but forgot to actually do it, when I put everything together.. I'm betting I'll very much regret that mistake now..lol |
I was able to get that bolt on and tight solo from under the van. I replaced the bolt with a socket head bolt. I used a swivel hex wrench for that one. For the nut on top I used a crows foot and a two foot extension pointing down.
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Patrick Brown
1986 Westy Syncro EJ25
Flickr --> https://flic.kr/s/aHsmQNUXEF |
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rubbachicken
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Joined: October 05, 2004
Posts: 3058
Location: socal
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| Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 4:54 pm Post subject: |
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once you get the bracket off, weld in bolts rather than nuts, it's much easier to push the slave cylinder down on two studs, than it is pushing the slave down and trying to not get the bolt in cross threaded.
alternatively you can bolt the slave to the bracket, then install the bracket onto the transmission, i've done both, and much prefer welding in bolts.
| DAV!D wrote: |
| pbrown wrote: |
| Same part. PITA to replace. Drop the rear engine mount bar and hang on longer bolts to make access MUCH easier. Also look into the Burley hose kit. |
Yea, I remember the bolt closest to the engine is a real winner. I had planned to weld the nut in place when I did my engine and trans swap, but forgot to actually do it, when I put everything together.. I'm betting I'll very much regret that mistake now..lol |
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lucy our westy
lucy's BIG adventure
meet 'burni'
markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.
619 201 0310 or 617 935 4182 |
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bluebus86
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Joined: September 02, 2010
Posts: 11075
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| Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 5:10 pm Post subject: |
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Note the bracket that holds the slave cylinder can be cracked, replace or weld if that is the case. Mine was cracked. It is now repaired and re-enforced, wont crack again.
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insyncro
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Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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Make it a 5 minute job with a $5 13mm wrench.
Bend in a vice.
How sweet it is...Syncro style.
Tape the nut to the wrench for the install  |
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IdahoDoug
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Joined: June 12, 2010
Posts: 10248
Location: N. Idaho
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| Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 10:27 pm Post subject: |
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Nice. I have a box for modified tools, and the other ends of the bit I cut off to access various things. You haven't lived until you've replaced the power steering line on a straight 5 Quattro!! The tape/nut is a good call, too.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader |
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Microbusdeluxe 
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Joined: July 26, 2003
Posts: 980
Location: Bellingham, WA
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| Posted: Tue Aug 25, 2015 11:12 pm Post subject: |
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Just got done with this job today. My tips for a, not painless, but easier syncro slave replacement.
I found it much easier to remove the top coolant hose that goes to the top of the thermostat. Then remove the top of the thermostat and move it out of the way.
On the installation of the new slave: For the rear bolt (which comes from below) I used a crow's foot mounted on a wobble extension and a drop of super glue to hold it. There is plenty of room to fasten the rear nut on it.
Like a previous poster said, use a cap head screw and a swivel head wrench from below for the front bolt. I superglued the nut to the slave to hold it while the allen screw started. After a few threads bite, the glue pops loose and you can hold the nut with a wrench.
All in all it wasn't nearly as bad as I feared.
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DAV!D
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Joined: September 10, 2013
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Location: EL CAMINO
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 10:06 am Post subject: |
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| Microbusdeluxe wrote: |
Just got done with this job today. My tips for a, not painless, but easier syncro slave replacement.
I found it much easier to remove the top coolant hose that goes to the top of the thermostat. Then remove the top of the thermostat and move it out of the way.
On the installation of the new slave: For the rear bolt (which comes from below) I used a crow's foot mounted on a wobble extension and a drop of super glue to hold it. There is plenty of room to fasten the rear nut on it.
Like a previous poster said, use a cap head screw and a swivel head wrench from below for the front bolt. I superglued the nut to the slave to hold it while the allen screw started. After a few threads bite, the glue pops loose and you can hold the nut with a wrench.
All in all it wasn't nearly as bad as I feared. |
I don't have a stock engine, so I have a bit more room to work with. I think the only thing which might get in the way, is my fuel pressure regulator and fuel lines. I mounted my pressure regulator right above the slave cylinder on the fire wall.
Even still, I don't think it will be as big of a deal as on a wbx. I think I'll have a harder time bleeding the clutch by myself, than changing the slave cylinder.. 
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86 Syncro Build - Ecotec Motor Swap - Pop Top Conversion - Camper Build & Syncro Conversion |
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the joker
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Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 1287
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 10:44 am Post subject: |
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mines leaking now  do they fail or do I have time 
84 2.1 bare bone joker
job looks straight forward
looking to purchase BD german one
any Samba BTDT input on the quality 
parts lately are a crap shoot
like to do the job once  |
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Zeitgeist 13
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Joined: March 05, 2009
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Location: Port Manteau
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 12:18 pm Post subject: |
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I nursed a weeping clutch slave for about six years. I would have to bleed it every couple of years, but it lasted until it didn't
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'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
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the joker
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Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 1287
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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added some brake fl to the res
should I bleed it??
shifts fine
going under there when it cools down tonite to clean and inspect |
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DAV!D
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Joined: September 10, 2013
Posts: 979
Location: EL CAMINO
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| Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 2:29 pm Post subject: |
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| Zeitgeist 13 wrote: |
| I nursed a weeping clutch slave for about six years. I would have to bleed it every couple of years, but it lasted until it didn't |
This is probably the route I'll take for the time being. I'm on the road til winter so I'm going to order the parts and have everything on hand to fix it. If it goes out or gets worse I'll just have to fix it where ever I am.
with any luck, it will hold out till I get back to finishing up the Syncro conversion, but I really hate to have anything that leaks. So far I've had no leaks from this van..
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insyncro
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Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 5:08 am Post subject: |
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Brake fluid isn't something WE want dropping onto the ground and entering the water table.
Please fix the leak 
It is a less than $100 part and you have been shown how to R&R the part in minutes.
TIA |
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Zeitgeist 13
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Joined: March 05, 2009
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Location: Port Manteau
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 9:27 am Post subject: |
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I should mention that my weak slave wasn't leaking outside the boot, but was just periodically allowing air in on the return stroke. When I finally got around to swapping in the new unit, I found it to be much easier than the online whining would lead you to believe. I used an old wrench bent for another project, very similar to Dylan's example. This is nothing like the nightmare it was back in the day to swap slaves on an Audi 5000
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Casey--
'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik? |
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DAV!D
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Joined: September 10, 2013
Posts: 979
Location: EL CAMINO
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 1:34 pm Post subject: |
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| insyncro wrote: |
Brake fluid isn't something WE want dropping onto the ground and entering the water table.
Please fix the leak
It is a less than $100 part and you have been shown how to R&R the part in minutes.
TIA |
It's pretty odd, but it has now stopped leaking. (No I'm not out of brake fluid)
It's kind of strange, as I had just given everything a good once over under the van last week, checked cv joint bolts, fuel, water lines ect.. Nothing was leaking. I then went and filled up the van a day or two later and noticed the leak at the gas station..
My first thought was a gas leak, until I saw the fluid type. It then leaked the next day or two when I made this topic, but now I noticed yesterday evening it had stopped leaking. I've put a lot of miles on the van today in city traffic and been checking everytime I stop, but still no leaks.
I'm still getting the replacement parts to keep with me but if it doesn't leak again, I'll just leave it till I go back to Fl.
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DAV!D
Samba Member
Joined: September 10, 2013
Posts: 979
Location: EL CAMINO
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| Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 1:36 pm Post subject: |
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| Zeitgeist 13 wrote: |
| I should mention that my weak slave wasn't leaking outside the boot, but was just periodically allowing air in on the return stroke. When I finally got around to swapping in the new unit, I found it to be much easier than the online whining would lead you to believe. I used an old wrench bent for another project, very similar to Dylan's example. This is nothing like the nightmare it was back in the day to swap slaves on an Audi 5000 |
I recently helped a guy change one on his S10 truck and that one was a pita. I don't think I'll ever vonenteer to help do that again..
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cawvin
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Joined: August 29, 2013
Posts: 63
Location: Whatcom County
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| Posted: Fri Aug 28, 2015 2:12 pm Post subject: |
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| rubbachicken wrote: |
| once you get the bracket off, weld in bolts rather than nuts, it's much easier to push the slave cylinder down on two studs |
You, sir, are a genius. Why didn't I think of that! |
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