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Relyt Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2012 Posts: 1008 Location: WA
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Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 7:50 pm Post subject: Ignition switch not securely staying in on position |
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So after a bit of searching and not finding out what i need to do.
Basically my electrical portion of the switch is less then a year old, and I have just replaced my mechanical portion of the switch. The car will stay on but the switch is not very securely locked in the on position, sometimes while driving in rougher conditions the switch can be bumped off.
So what part of the ignition switch is responsible for keeping the key in the on position?
More details:
My electrical portion of the ignition switch completely fell apart one night and I jumped some wires at the fuse panel to make it home, replaced that with a unit from WW (along with a hard start relay) and haven't had any problems electrically yet.
A while later my switch would not turn unless I pressed on the electrical portion from behind, I overcame this by just not letting the mechanical portion pop back out, thus not allowing the steering wheel to lock, when removing the key. The the ignition switch then started to have issues of staying securely in the on position.
So I replaced the mechanical portion with a Hella unit, it is the "new" style. Removing the old switch was extremely difficult, requiring vice grips, screwdriver for prying, and a hammer to help knock it out (yes I was pushing the tab in the hole), it did not give me this kind of problem the first time I removed it for the electrical portion. The old switch does not pop back out on it's own when the key is removed, and appears very worn. The new one turns easily and pops back out fine and everything. But it still is not very secure in the on position.
I also noticed that the housing, specifically the steering lock mechanism does not have the "guide pin" that the Bentley has pictured, and the housing does look worn, where the other pin rests on the housing edge.
So do I need a new electrical portion, mechanical portion, or is there something up with the housing or steering lock?
If it's the housing or steering lock where do I find parts, or is that something I have to find used?
Thanks,
-Tyler- _________________ 69 Beetle - Daily driver
1600 SP (unknown history)
30 PICT 1 w/power circuit (Volkzbitz)
205T (Bill) |
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Multi69s Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 5363 Location: Lefty, CA
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Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 1:36 pm Post subject: |
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I am 95% sure that it is the electrical portion, but it has been awhile since I changed one. However, when I did, I had to change it out twice, due to the first one going bad very quickly. If no one else chimes in you can answer the question for yourself. Separate the two parts, then turn just the electrical portion. If you feel indents, or stops as you turn it, then it is the electrical portion. _________________ 69 road Bug 2110
73 Squareback - 2L, T4, Automatic W/ AC
Gone, but many fond memories 69 Baja Bug 2010 - 5 Rib Bus Transaxle
Gone but not forgotten 72 Baja Bug 2010
My builds
T4 into Squareback http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=458944&highlight=
Auto Trans Rebuild http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516066&highlight=
AC in Squareback https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight= |
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Relyt Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2012 Posts: 1008 Location: WA
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Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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I was pretty sure it wasn't the mechanical portion either. If I don't get another response I'll do just as you suggested (I should have thought of that). I know that new electrical switches are prone to failure.
I'll make sure to update as I figure things out, it's not bad now, but I know these things don't get better.
Thanks for the response and tip! _________________ 69 Beetle - Daily driver
1600 SP (unknown history)
30 PICT 1 w/power circuit (Volkzbitz)
205T (Bill) |
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Relyt Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2012 Posts: 1008 Location: WA
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Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 7:51 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, you were correct, it is the electrical portion. The plastic part that the mechanical switch enters to turn the electrical switch was cracking, and now it won't engage the starter.
I have one on order from the FLAPS, will be here tomorrow, but it looks like it is the 72/73 style, so I will be fabricating up some wires. _________________ 69 Beetle - Daily driver
1600 SP (unknown history)
30 PICT 1 w/power circuit (Volkzbitz)
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Tim Donahoe Samba Member
Joined: December 08, 2012 Posts: 11740 Location: Redding, CA
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Posted: Wed Sep 02, 2015 8:27 pm Post subject: |
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You might want to get another one--when you second one goes out--from Wolfsburg West. I hear they're the best.
Tim _________________ Let's do the Time Warp again!
Richard O'Brien |
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Relyt Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2012 Posts: 1008 Location: WA
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Posted: Thu Sep 03, 2015 9:23 pm Post subject: |
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I'm on my third one now. the first came with the car, was it original? who knows. The second came from Wolfsburg West and lasted about a year. The third one I just installed, a 72/73 style one from O'Reilly's.
I had to cut the wires from my Wolfsburg West switch, most of the terminal ends came off rather then disconnecting from the spades, even though i used dielectric grease. I crimped and soldered on terminals and used shrink tubing around them. The new switch is not an exact fit, it doesn't fully seat down. So this throws the clamp down off which makes it so the turn signal switch assembly is a tighter squeeze. I may try sanding down the plastic housing to get a better fit.
I also ended up not using the smaller two terminals, S and P. As far as I can tell these both are for the buzzer, which no one likes.
But I will be ordering another switch from Wolfsburg West as I do not trust this switches quality, as well as am unsatisfied with it's fit.
But my switch is now securely in the on position and everything is working (except the key buzzer). _________________ 69 Beetle - Daily driver
1600 SP (unknown history)
30 PICT 1 w/power circuit (Volkzbitz)
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Multi69s Samba Member
Joined: January 24, 2006 Posts: 5363 Location: Lefty, CA
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ashman40 Samba Member
Joined: February 16, 2007 Posts: 15982 Location: North Florida, USA
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Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 4:54 am Post subject: |
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Would you mind clarifying a few things?
Relyt wrote: |
...a 72/73 style one from O'Reilly's. |
So your '71 should have an ignition switch (electrical portion) with wires soldered onto the the switch (no push-on terminals). It should look something like this:
The later '72/'73 ignition switch used push on terminals and came with no wires. Looks like part#3 in this pic:
You would have needed to cut the wires from the old switch and crimp on new female push on terminals to the wires so they would slip onto the new switch's terminals.
Also not part#2 in the above pic is the retaining screw for the electrical switch. If your did not fit into the housing this hole would not have lined up. Did you have a problem with this screw or the tab on the switch where the screw seats? If this is not installed the electrical switch will flop around.
Relyt wrote: |
I had to cut the wires from my Wolfsburg West switch, most of the terminal ends came off rather then disconnecting from the spades, even though i used dielectric grease. |
I'm not clear what you are saying here? The '71 ignition switch you removed would not have had any terminals to disconnect from the spades? Maybe your old switch was not a '71?
Relyt wrote: |
I crimped and soldered on terminals and used shrink tubing around them. |
This is good.
Relyt wrote: |
The new switch is not an exact fit, it doesn't fully seat down. So this throws the clamp down off which makes it so the turn signal switch assembly is a tighter squeeze. I may try sanding down the plastic housing to get a better fit. |
So are you saying the electrical portion does not fit into the bottom of the steering lock housing? If so, how did you install the retaining screw if the holes didn't line up? _________________ AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!} |
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Relyt Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2012 Posts: 1008 Location: WA
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Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 8:38 am Post subject: |
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I would be glad to clarify.
I did have a 71 style ignition switch, the female spade connectors that pulled off the wires were the ones in the trunk, such as connecting to the fuse panel or the plastic housed connectors going to the starter and headlight switch. I would have hoped that factory crimps would hold better, so that was just a comment on the quality of the crimping. I did cut the wires at the ignition switch.
The new 72/73 style switch fits perfectly in the steering lock housing, I was able to get the retaining screw in no problem. I believe that the end of the 72/73 ignition switch is hitting against the steering column portion that houses the steering lock housing. I don't know if this is a problem with all 72/73 switches or just my $11 O'reilly's switch. _________________ 69 Beetle - Daily driver
1600 SP (unknown history)
30 PICT 1 w/power circuit (Volkzbitz)
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Little-Acorn Samba Member
Joined: August 29, 2014 Posts: 64 Location: San Diego, CA
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Posted: Sun Sep 06, 2015 12:36 pm Post subject: |
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That's not the only direction it can move in.
My brother had a '68 beetle. Was driving on the freeway when the starter engaged, without him touching the key.
I had wondered what it took to break the crank in a VW engine, now I know..... |
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Relyt Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2012 Posts: 1008 Location: WA
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Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 1:40 pm Post subject: |
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Just an update:
My right turn signal was blowing a fuse. The ill fit of the switch and forgetting to put the plastic caps back on the screws was causing it.
So I put the plastic caps back on and pulled the switch again.
The 72/73 style switch has an angle which should make it clear so that the shift lock housing tests on the rim of the steering colum housing, but mine didn't, so I filed down the edges near the right side to help it fit better. It does fit better but I still need to file a bit more to make everything flush, or just get another 71 switch.
Is anyone able to confirm if all 72/73 style switches are like this or just cheap ones? _________________ 69 Beetle - Daily driver
1600 SP (unknown history)
30 PICT 1 w/power circuit (Volkzbitz)
205T (Bill) |
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