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63Ragtop NZ Samba Member
Joined: December 04, 2007 Posts: 895 Location: West Auckland
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Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 1:19 pm Post subject: |
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Its does seem crazy that 60's bugs were huge sellers, but most sheet metal is later model/universal or the earlier cars, I would have thought there would be a big market for correct 60's metal?
Good work finding some OG metal, best fit really. _________________ If you can't join them, beat them! |
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thekera Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2011 Posts: 399 Location: WA
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Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 4:45 pm Post subject: |
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BartD , Thanks for checking out the Thread. Mika, hand makes great panels. As our aircooled vehicles get older, they are more and more in need of metal work. I just hope some better quality panels hit the market like there is available for the type 2 owners. |
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thekera Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2011 Posts: 399 Location: WA
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Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2015 4:58 pm Post subject: |
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63Ragtop NZ , I agree the early 60's Bugs were big years for VW. Especially metal from 1960 to 1964 you think there would be more. I guess it is only a matter of time. OG metal is the best, its just finding OG metal that has been removed with care and removed from factory spot welds. |
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thekera Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2011 Posts: 399 Location: WA
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Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2015 2:43 am Post subject: |
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Im not sure what to call this section? I guess it would be the lower inner B pillar. The section right above the heater channel that goes from the rear cross member FWD to the door jam. This section was substantially rusted. Especially right by the door jam where the metal laps over onto the heater channel.
I looked high and low for a replacement panel for this area, know one makes one. I even looked for a OG section for some time. I bought a good donor from a 1959 Bug but when I got home I realized this area was different from the 1962.
I decided this section would have to be made from scratch. I began by taking some measurements from the original area and transferring that to sheet metal. From here I cut out the shape and began to shape the section into a rough of the area.
Once I was happy with my rough shape, I began to fit the panel into the area that it would be going. I also decided to replace the triangle section at the bottom of the door jam. This is the area that the headliner post retainer strip is located on. I just cut this section out and traced it. I would like to note the headliner retainer strip is from Mika.
After many hours getting this panel to the point where I was happy, I began to tack it into place. I put my Klassic Fab heater channel in while I was making this panel as a point of reference. After the section was welded into place it was the usual grind and blend.
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Tony S. Samba Member
Joined: November 10, 2014 Posts: 16 Location: New Lenox, IL
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Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2015 9:25 am Post subject: |
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Wow! You are really doing an awesome job, very nice work!! |
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thekera Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2011 Posts: 399 Location: WA
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Posted: Fri Oct 16, 2015 7:38 pm Post subject: |
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Tony S. , thank you for the positive feedback. I really enjoy the metal work/fabrication process. It is very consuming but also very rewarding. Keep checking in on the thread. Thanks again |
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jzjames Samba Member
Joined: September 27, 2007 Posts: 1921 Location: Windy Point, WA
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Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 10:32 am Post subject: |
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sure enough!! |
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thekera Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2011 Posts: 399 Location: WA
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Posted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 5:31 pm Post subject: |
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jzjames , fellow NW guy! Thanks for checking out the thread, lol I hope to one day get it finished and out to the local shows. |
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BartD Samba Member
Joined: March 17, 2014 Posts: 38 Location: Belgium
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Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 3:01 am Post subject: |
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Great job, keep on posting.
My '59 standard is in the same condition, these are inspiring pics |
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thekera Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2011 Posts: 399 Location: WA
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Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 3:06 am Post subject: |
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BartD, Ive got more on the way, Thank you for the compliment. 1958/1959 are two of my favorite years, keep plugin away at it. Couple hrs here and there. |
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thekera Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2011 Posts: 399 Location: WA
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Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 3:31 am Post subject: |
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I thought it might be kind of cool to show some of the tools I have been using. Im not a professional, just a hobbyist. As the project progressed I realized I really enjoy doing metal work and would maybe one day try and do a little on the side for my friends or other future projects. As the project has gone on I have been acquiring tools here and there. Most of these tools are cheap some are not. I always keep an eye out for good used tools and find you can usually get the tools that might be out of your price range this way.
Here are some Bosch electric shears. These are not cheap new. I found these locally on CL. It did take awhile to find but well worth the $35.00 I paid. These are great for cutting sheet metal and will follow any curved line you can throw at it.
I found that the tools you are usually reaching for are not the hundred dollar tools but the cheaper couple dollar tools. Here is a list of different tools I have been using a lot throughout the project.
-Grinders, both angle and straight. These are mid range in price but work well.
-Pens, A wide assortment. Different colors and fine to wide in tip shape. Always need a pen for measurements and cut lines.
-Small SS brush, these are awesome. Great size to keep in your pocket and good for cleaning up your metal.
-Clecos, I learned about these after watching metal/body work videos on Youtube. I buy these on Amazon and you can get them in packs of 50 for a fair price. They come in different sizes and are great for holding panels.
-Metal 12" scale and Taylor tape measure, These are by far my number one tool I use. I cannot stress how great the Taylor tape measure is for metal/body work. I grabbed this out of my wives sewing stuff and never gave it back. I will note, I only like using the metric system as it is true to the VW and makes math simple.
-Anvil, Hammer and Dolly, These are just cheapy HF stuff. I will say I have seen worse when it comes to Hammer and dolly sets. HF's hammer and dolly set is actually not bad, I would like to upgrade one day. The anvil is great for shaping metal and giving you a straight edge to work with. I have two sizes.
-Copper sheet, I get this from a local metal supply. Copper is great for backing up welds to avoid burn through.
-Plastic sheet, I use this for making templates. I like it better than paper because it is transparent.
-Dremel, another awesome tool for detail and hard to reach areas.
-Clamps, A wide assortment of clamps. Can never have to many clamps.
-Flashlight, I use the flashlight to check my welds from the backside of the panel.
-Scribe, I like using a scribe for cut lines better than a pen because it seems to be more accurate.
-Sandpaper, different grits for roughing up metal or paint.
I might periodically show different tools throughout the Thread. Thanks and keep checking in. |
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thekera Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2011 Posts: 399 Location: WA
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Posted: Fri Oct 23, 2015 2:23 am Post subject: |
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After replacing all these panels on the driver side, its about time to install my Klassic Fab heater channel. Before that though, I had been thinking about what I needed to do to prep the channel. I had been debating how I could do some rust prevention on the channels inner structure. I thought about possibly removing the bottom plate of the heater channel so I could paint the inner structure but this seemed like an awful lot of extra work. I started to do some research, and found these cavity coating wands made by Eastwood and a couple other manufacturers. Now, most dealers like Eastwood sell the wand only with their aerosol paint which isn't cheap. I did my own spin on the setup and bought my wand from KBS coatings and went with my usual Zero Rust in an aerosol.
This method worked pretty well. I will say it was a little messy. I went ahead and did both channels and between the two it took about one can of Zero Rust per channel.
Also in prep for the heater channel install, I began working on the Defrost Hose. I ordered my Defrost Hose from Wolfsburg West. When I received the hose I did a mock up on the new channel/cowl vent. I found that the hose fit the cowl vent but not the channel. The diameter of the hose was to small to accept the heater channel duct. I then called Wolfsburg West to ask if maybe I had ordered the wrong hose size. Wolfsburg West told me that originally there was a larger diameter hose that had a rubber gasket to fit the cowl vent area. They said I could order the larger hose but it would be loose at the cowl vent fitting. I began thinking about an easy fix. I did order the larger hose. Then I cut a section from the smaller hose and fit it inside the larger hose at the end where it would attach to the cowl vent. From here I dipped the end in a gasket making compound. This worked well and now the hose fits as it should on both ends.
Test section:
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thekera Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2011 Posts: 399 Location: WA
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Posted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 5:18 am Post subject: |
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I have been thinking about how I should write up the heater channel replacement. The more I think about it, I start to think photos should do most of the talking. Almost, all of the panels I have shown in the thread so far have been leading up to the install of the Klassic Fab heater channels.
If we look back earlier in the thread you will see most of the corrosion was in the aft of the OG heater channel. I wish I had taken more photos of the heater channel bottom plate, which also had a lot of rust.
Before I had cut out the OG driver side heater channel, I decided to leave the passenger side heater channel intact, for a point of reference. I also built a jig that locates the heater channel to its factory locations using it's existing weld nuts. From here to make sure everything was to its original factory spec, I referenced the Bentley manual and also found this awesome reference here on the samba:
When I first started shopping for panels for the 1962, the heater channels were one of the first sections I did my research on. Klassic Fab heater channels are not cheap. In saying that, there is also no comparison when it comes to quality.
I correspond with Gerson via email and he was very helpful in answering my questions. I have to say, that the Klassic Fab heater channel is the best repop panel I have seen personally.
As I was working on the other panels I would occasionally slip the new channel in to check fit.
Once I finished the inner B pillar panel I made, it was time to install the new channel. I kept all the old panels as a reference for proper factory spot welds/lap welds. I wanted to make sure to replicate all the factory spot welds, so all spot welds were counted, measured, and transferred to the new panels. The welding in of the new channel went smoothly. The lap welds were a little tricky as I have mostly been doing spot welds during the project. I also cut a rough section out of the rear quarter panel as I will be replacing this next. After all welds were finished on the new channels I grinded them as closely as possible to match the originals.
A PILLAR
FRONT QUARTER PANEL
REAR QUARTER PANEL/ INNER B PILLAR/ CROSSMEMBER
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thekera Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2011 Posts: 399 Location: WA
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Posted: Sat Oct 31, 2015 7:01 am Post subject: |
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After the heater channel install, it was time to focus on the rear lower quarter panel. For this panel I decided to also go with Klassic Fab. I had looked at the other quarter panels on the market and was not impressed with the quality. The Klassic Fab quarter panel looked to be very correct.
From here I laid the panel over the rough area I had already cut from the OG panel to get a more accurate scribe line. I also removed a few spot welds from the inner wheel well. In the photo, you might also notice a locating tool I made.This tool really helped both in locating and also later with the weld process. I wanted to show too, when I cut a panel out and there is adjacent structure, I will use a piece of scrap metal to avoid cutting the under laying panel.
I began to prep the panel for spot welds and noticed that maybe I had received a panel from Klassic Fab with a bad stamping. The rear corner and the lower FWD front were different from the photos I cross referenced online of their quarter panels. I had to spend some time correcting these areas.
I figured I would take the time and do some rust prevention, while I had all the access I could want in these commonly hard to reach areas. I started by seam sealing the seams of the inner B pillar. Then I painted the inner B pillar and quarter panel with Zero Rust. I also went ahead and did some prep weld thru primer on Mika's headliner retainer strip.
Keep posted, I will probably be covering the quarter panel install over a couple post. Thanks for following the build. |
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zodlaw Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2005 Posts: 507 Location: Battle Ground, Wa.
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thekera Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2011 Posts: 399 Location: WA
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Posted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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zodlaw, I have already kind of been trying to keep an eye out for my next project, an oval ragtop. I know, I still have alot of work left on the 1962 but if the right oval rag comes along, might have to pick it up. I would also be interested in a 1958 rag. Anyways, its defintly not cost effective going to the extent that I am on this project but in saying that it is a labor of love. Thank you for the compliments, I really enjoy metal work and wanted to do this project with what I thought were the better products on the market today. I know OG metal will always be best but lets face it, as these VW's get older that is getting harder to do. Keep checking in everyone and thanks for all the positive feedback! |
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thekera Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2011 Posts: 399 Location: WA
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 4:39 am Post subject: |
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From here I did some layout on the actual quarter panel. I also cut some copper strips to back my weld.
Before I went to install the quarter panel, I needed to install Mika's headliner retainer strip. In hindsight, I should have installed this onto the triangle section before it was welded onto the heater channel. It was a pain getting the spot welder in this area.
I started to pin down the quarter panel. I made sure to check for fit. For the most part the panel went in without any major problems. I did have to make a little section that the panel did not cover.
I know thats quite a few photos. Keep posted and thank you for checking out the thread. |
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zodlaw Samba Member
Joined: July 27, 2005 Posts: 507 Location: Battle Ground, Wa.
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jzjames Samba Member
Joined: September 27, 2007 Posts: 1921 Location: Windy Point, WA
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 10:20 am Post subject: |
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Everything is so straight. Love studying your photos, and thanks for posting on TheSamba, its about the best heater channel job Ive seen. Youre going to have a real deal bug body. Jealous of your welding and fabricating. |
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thekera Samba Member
Joined: March 20, 2011 Posts: 399 Location: WA
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Posted: Fri Nov 06, 2015 6:57 pm Post subject: |
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zodlaw, alot of the fit, fair, and locating tools are home made, or fairly cheap to acuire. The welding equipment is where it gets expensive lol. I hope for spring but we will see, maybe paint by spring. Either way Im having alot of fun and really enjoy being able to share my metal work here on The Samba. Thanks for checking in and theres more to come so keep checking in. |
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