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Bizarro Timing Condition, '75 Westy
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 12:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Busstom wrote:
Hey all,

I just wanted to plug in an update so you all didn't think I rolled up and died, or just gave up on this Bus.

To recap: '75 Westy, just purchased, only runs 40* BTDC, needs full examination, wildy out-of-spec valves.

So, juggling the new puppy and home remodel, I've finally gotten this far:
1) pulled #1 plug (yeah, pretty easy), and low-and-behold, you can see the piston top down below! Okay, TDC confirmed, pulley/fan all good, everything all good there, TDC is TDC on #1 as indicated. Closed issue.
2) Proceeding with valve adjustment...super wonky gappage, screws need to be so far in that there's no more thread left for the jam nut. So ordered lash caps from CE, as temporary gap-fillers where needed, until I can just get the thing running and do more in-depth diagnosis - I'll tear it down if need be.
3) In culling the forum and Ratwell for info, got curious, pulled a pushrod and measured it...what the heck??? Stuck a magnet and guess what???

Yep, hydraulic lifter setup, in my '75! DOES THIS MEAN IT'S A 2L ALSO?

The only thing to do is literally pull a lifter to confirm, but how else could it be running 261-ish millimeter pushrods, right?

So thinking back, the seller told me that his brother (the real PO) had this Bus sitting for 9 years. This looks to be shaping up as a classic case of multiple stuck lifters, no?? So onward with that process.

But I wanted to throw this in, as many of you probably already know: Dan at CE is one hell of a helpful guy...cuz not only am I a Bay noob, I'm a hydro-lifter noob on air-cooleds. I hadn't done business with Dan in five years, but his patient and helpful perspective has assured him repeat business down the road.

Out!


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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 3:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You still need to determine whether you are at TDC for #1 or #3. The difference is whether the valves are closed or in overlap. The piston will be the same for both. You need to watch the motion of the rockers or use a finger to plug the #1 spark plug hole while someone turns the engine over by hand for you.

Hydraulic lifters may seem to have been adjusted at random, because they have leaked down. When doing an adjustment you need to turn the screws using just your finger tips as the zero lash point can be very subtle. The feel may also vary greatly from valve to valve.
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Busstom
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 30, 2015 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, Wildthings, all good there. #1 piston TDC, valves relaxed and rockers free, rotor pointing to #1 wire, #3 valves in overlap.

SG, I'm in Sanno Zay, home of the Kelley Park - Golden Gate Chapter vintage meet!
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oscarsnapkin
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 01, 2015 1:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a similar issue with my engine when I first installed it. It would only idle when the timing was way advanced. My problem turned out to be simple, the idle was adjusted too low. Have you tried setting the timing at 3500 RPM first and then adjusting the idle speed? Not sure if you're having the same problem I had, but I figured it doesn't hurt to throw it out there. I had started a thread awhile back right here---->
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=613601&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0
Hope it helps.
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Busstom
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, o.n.

Well, the rockers are off, was gonna pull the PR tubes and extract the lifters so that I could clean 'em up and un-stick 'em on the bench.

Decided now is as good a time as any to do a compression check.

1) 0
2) 80
3) 138
4) 150

That's a wrap Mad
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 3:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Time to do a wet test or a leak down test.
Sad
Tcash
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 03, 2015 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Busstom wrote:
Thanks, o.n.

Well, the rockers are off, was gonna pull the PR tubes and extract the lifters so that I could clean 'em up and un-stick 'em on the bench.

Decided now is as good a time as any to do a compression check.

1) 0
2) 80
3) 138
4) 150

That's a wrap Mad


don't mix the lifters up.
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Busstom
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
Time to do a wet test or a leak down test.
Sad
Tcash

Well, so I fabbed a leakdown tester this weekend, and got to it last night...32% leakage through the #1 exhaust valve. I can feel the breeze of air coming out the muffler tip.

I s’pose I’ll do the other three just out of curiosity, but as I suspected, it’s gotta come apart. Turns out just about every car I ever bought needs an engine…as an old friend always used to tell me, “Buddy, that car’s not used…it’s used up!” And ain’t it the truth. I’d like to think I still got a decent deal.

Guess I’m gonna give those AMC heads a try, maybe reworked by HAM, maybe not…we’ll see. Maybe I’ll get bold and hone/re-ring, we’ll see…gotta get it apart to assess the “beatage” this thing took. If the cam and lifters look decent (fat chance), I may try to go without splitting the case. I wonder if T-IV decks take the cylinder poundage like T-I cases. Prolly start a new rebuild thread!

Thanks for all your inputs.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 12, 2015 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget to check and record the end play if you remove the flywheel.
The Type IV cases are usually pretty solid. Unless the PO did not torque the heads correctly?
Good Luck
Tcash
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