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pgtips Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2009 Posts: 860 Location: essex
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Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 3:27 am Post subject: Outer scraper refit 1302 convertible advice pls |
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Hi,
Is there a better/improved method to reinstall 1971 1302ls convertible door outer scrapers other than screwing them in.
the rear ones were attached using tape something like 3M double sided tape and it seemed to be holding ok. Much nicer to remove as well + no rusty screws to fight. Getting my old scrapers out was a real pain and I'm not sure I want to screw the new ones in if alternative method works.
Anyone tried adhesive tape for these ?
Any reason why not?
Many thanks
PG _________________ 1975 1.8l FI Auto Westy - Subaru converted
1971 356 kit 1600 TP - semi/stickshift
1971 1302 LS - semi/stickshift
Trim ring info here -> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559668
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=451210
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=479721 |
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old gh bug Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2013 Posts: 197 Location: UK
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Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 4:22 am Post subject: |
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I have not tried tape , I would not be over confident that they would hold on ok .
I just used stainless self tappers on mine . |
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pgtips Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2009 Posts: 860 Location: essex
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31361 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 6:31 am Post subject: |
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1971 VW CONVERTIBLE WINDOW SCRAPERS AND RUBBER SEAL INSTALLATION
Inside scrapers
Vent scraper
Probably best just to notch and cut off most of bottom lip of replacement scraper and press/glue in as this avoids necessity of removing window and vent frame.
Front window scraper
Remove outside scraper. Lower window completely. Remove old inside scraper. Using two people, attach lower lip into groove starting at rear of window, sliding replacement scraper forward as you go using
1 x 4 inch piece of sheet metal with 1/4 inch lip and screwdrivers. When lower lip is in and rubber fully forward to the vent window, pull on upper lip and place into groove. Replace outer scraper. Use baby powder on upper portion of scraper (inside and outside) to reduce "grab" onto window when lowering.
Quarter window scraper
Remove outer scraper first. (note: if two people are available, a procedure similar to the above front window procedure of starting the bottom lip, then sliding scraper forward will probably work.) Otherwise, remove quarter window; remove two plastic caps then two 10mm head bolts w/ washers. Roll window halfway down then lift up to remove. Remove old inner scraper rubber and replace with new scraper rubber by installing lower lip first into groove, then pulling upper lip into groove. Grease window regulator, channel, and groove under window if necessary at this time. To re-install window, crank handle most of the way up, align groove with clip and back of frame with channel, then lower. Re-install two 10mm head bolts/washers loosely. Re-install outside scraper, then align, tightening two 10mm head bolts when aligned. Replace plastic caps. Use baby powder on upper portion of scraper (inside and outside) to reduce "grab" onto window when lowering.
Outside scrapers
Rebuild scrapers one at a time to eliminate confusion.
Install inside scrapers (if doing) before re-installing outer scrapers.
Outside scrapers are held in place by small #1 phillips screws: two for quarter window and three for front window. (on the 1971 driver's window the middle screw is slightly larger thread.) After removing intact scraper, support on piece of wood and drill out rivets with 1/8 inch bit and remove rivet pieces to remove steel backplate. Remove rubber insert or inserts by sliding out; lubrication with glycerine may make this easier. Cut new rubber pieces to fit by matching with old pieces. Lubricate strips and new rubber pieces well with glycerine. Slide in (for quarter windows) or lubricate well and firmly push both pieces directly in (for front). Wash off glycerine with water. Hold backplate in place and drill hole thru rubber piece; rivet from backpiece side using 1/8 inch short rivets. Then hold in place, drill other holes and sandwich rubber in place using other rivets. Wash off glycerine with water, then reinstall. Use baby powder on upper portion of scraper (inside and outside) to reduce "grab" onto window when lowering..
Quarter window upright seals
Remove small phillips screw and rectangular plate near bottom of seal. Slide down old seal. Lubricate frame channel and replacement rubber seal lip well with glycerine and push up into frame (note: this might require two people). Wash off excess glycerine with water. The screw is about 11.5mm up from the bottom of the frame; drill a hole thru the seal at that place, slide up small rectangular bracket, and re-install screw (it's head will pierce the outer part of the seal).
from another: Inside scrapers, don't cut the bottom lip, it will come off eventually even if glued. Simply insert a string or 14ga wire into the bottom lip, insert the seal into the channel and while applying a little finger pressure to the bottom lip, pull the string out (down) from inside the door panel. This will roll the bottom lip over the flange. I agree to cut the lower lip off the inner vent wing scraper and just tuck it in unless you have the vent wing & frame removed.
From Darby: Inner side rear 1/4 window rubber scraper?.
Insert a string into the lower lip of the rubber and get both ends of the string down the window slot into the inside of the car so you can grab it. Spray the seal with foamy window cleaner and tuck the upper lip into it's slot. Now put a finger down the window slot at one end and begin pulling the string down with the other hand from inside the car. As the string pulls out it will pull the lower lip over the car's body. With your finger, follow the string and help the rubber slip over the bottom lip.
Someone else posted this RUBBER SEAL INSTALLATION
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7785716#7785716 with photos _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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pgtips Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2009 Posts: 860 Location: essex
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old gh bug Samba Member
Joined: February 22, 2013 Posts: 197 Location: UK
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Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 10:36 am Post subject: |
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Screwfix is better than b&q for stuff like that |
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pgtips Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2009 Posts: 860 Location: essex
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Cusser Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2006 Posts: 31361 Location: Hot Arizona
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Posted: Tue Sep 22, 2015 11:38 am Post subject: |
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pgtips wrote: |
Thank you, I hadn't found those ones |
I wrote them. I couldn't find any information to do these, back when I got my new rubber parts; even supplier was zero help. I went through all my Hot VWs issues back to 1973, thinking this had to be covered, but no, not at that time. _________________ 1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297 |
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pgtips Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2009 Posts: 860 Location: essex
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pgtips Samba Member
Joined: July 23, 2009 Posts: 860 Location: essex
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