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adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help.
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74superTN
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 11:21 am    Post subject: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

So I have a 1971cc camper special from Raby. I need to check my lash and probably make adjustments. Do I just take them in until touching and then tighten the jam nut back down? No feeler gauge needed correct.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 11:30 am    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

Correct, best to go with the slightest perceptible feeling of movement until you get good at it, not enough to get a feeler gauge under but loose enough you can still feel a bit of movement between the valve tip and rocker once the nut is snugged up. The pushrod should still spin freely once it's all done.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 11:41 am    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

I use my thinnnest feeler gauge to help me get close to zero lash. Once everything is broken in, they rarely close up at all (at least mine never have).
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74superTN
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 11:46 am    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

Ok thanks guys. I called aircooled technology because my carbs are popping when im low throttle and they said its almost always valve adjustments.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 12:13 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

Your set may have a .0015" feeler gauge, try using that instead of setting them at zero.
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aeromech
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 2:02 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

I've never heard of this before. I didn't know they even made a T1 camper special. How can they get away with no valve lash?

Ah, I misread 1971cc to be year 1971. Sorry. Still, if these are hydraulics then I thought you went zero plus 1 1/2 turns?
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 2:07 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

aeromech wrote:
I've never heard of this before. I didn't know they even made a T1 camper special. How can they get away with no valve lash?

Ah, I misread 1971cc to be year 1971. Sorry. Still, if these are hydraulics then I thought you went zero plus 1 1/2 turns?


The CS...and in fact none of Jake Raby's designs (that I know of)....use hydraulics.....thank God actually. Ray
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 2:09 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

So why are his engines so different that you don't go with .006?
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 2:13 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

Chrome moly push rods.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 2:31 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

Can't say that they can, but can't say that they can't make up custom aluminium pushrods so that there is less chance the valves on a cold engine are held open.

http://www.pushrods.net/
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 3:24 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

Yep...as Randy in Maine noted.....the chromolly pushrods are the reason.

Most of Jakes combos....really the few that I know anything,about...use a llittle bigger valves than stock and definitely use different cam profiles. To control the valves the springs specified are a little stronger (maybe more than a little.....I will know whenI start to measure pressure on the ones in my kit). ........and so most of them use chromolly pushrods.

The chromolly pushrods are a little lighter by about 10 grams...but stiffer. They expand less and much slower than the aluminum pushrods. So you set them at "0" lash when cold. That meand no actuall lift but no gap. A dead fit.

The case and heads exapnd....producig the required gap as the engine heats up. Ray
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 4:41 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

Well the carbs are still popping. Adjusted valves to zero lash. Ugh
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 4:48 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

"Zero Lash" can be a range of adjustments, actually, depending upon how precise you want to be.

With a new motor, or one that runs hot now and again, your adjustment would be free, but no slop; easy to spin but no up-and-down.

If you really know it, and it runs cool and is well broken in, you can run "a little hard to turn with oily hands".
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 4:51 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

74superTN wrote:
Well the carbs are still popping. Adjusted valves to zero lash. Ugh


Check for vacuum leaks...
Have the manifold-to-head nuts been re-torqued?

Might be time to blow out the idle jets?
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 5:05 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

I've done a few engines with dual Webers or Dellortos and if the synch gets off, they pop like hell.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 5:16 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

Wonderful. I don't have the tool to sync them.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 6:11 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

The long linkage bar between both carbs has a little free at in it. Is this normal?
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 7:05 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

What kind of carbs and linkage? Pics?
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74superTN
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 7:14 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

Weber 40IDF carbs. Not sure on the linkage.
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2016 7:23 pm    Post subject: Re: adjusting valves to zero lash. need some help. Reply with quote

Slowly turn out the idle jets on one side until that side stops any coughing or popping then repeat on other side popping is caused by not enough fuel in Idle. With out the sync tool you wont be able to sync the carbs and will make the engine run funky its easy to use one just disconnect the linkage between the carbs then slowly turn the adjustment screw on each carb the volume draw usually runs really great at 5 or 6 then the process of reattaching he linkage it will take awhile to get it just right you will be able to tell you don't have it just right as the motor will stumble if one side starts out first keep working on it until that stumbling go away it will and you will tell all is well as the motor will really sound strong also make sure you are using the center pivot to the linkage where the cable attaches as trying to just advance the carbs from one carb will give you a false reading on how synced the carb are
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