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Mystery engine
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Zundfolge1432 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 4:06 pm    Post subject: Mystery engine Reply with quote

Buying used engines is always a gamble. I took that bet today on a late model Made in Mexico long block. What did I find? A broken crankshaft. Bearings look good, I'd guess less than 20k miles and its all standard and cut for 92s, it was, is an 1835. I've got half a dozen good used standard/ standard cranks ready to go. Soon as I get this all cleaned up I'll do a build with pics. This used engine set me back 150 bucks.


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That's it as received
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Here tis all broken down about hour and a half later
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Zundfolge1432 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cam had a bolt on gear which means it could be non stock unit. Turned out to be unmarked on the front as seen from the oil pump. Upon closer examination its hand scribed using a vibro-peen and can only be seen using 10 magnifier.
It reads 12-07 we assume this is a build date. Then the numbers 228 and 4801. Followed by the name Iskadarian W86N . So does anyone know the specs of this cam ?? Very Happy


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe it's this
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Opinions on this? Has anyone run a cam with these specs? Seems mild.
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Bashr52
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 5:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zundfolge1432 wrote:
Opinions on this? Has anyone run a cam with these specs? Seems mild.


Did you keep track of which lifter came out of what hole? If you plan on running that cam again you'll need to know that, unless you are going to use new lifters
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks yes I did, time honored method of using a piece of cardboard and numbering the holes Very Happy
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zundfolge1432 wrote:
Thanks yes I did, time honored method of using a piece of cardboard and numbering the holes Very Happy


I'm sure someone sells something shiny and expensive for this exact purpose. Like the guy who sells the spark plug caddy… Laughing
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 3:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got into the engine a little more after work today after preliminary cleaning found booster oil pressure relief valve and heavy spring. This is unneeded in most cases especially a newer block like this, can cause oil pressure spikes when cold causing leaks and burst coolers. It won't be going back in. The mains look good new markings and no fretting on the number two web. Look at the photo.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Removing crank gear I'm out of sequence here's the other photos
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 3:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We are saving those woodruff keys on that broken crank along with the dowel pins all the gears and space too.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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The mess all goes into this parts washer, we use something like varsol solvent
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 3:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That broken crankshaft turned out to be .010/.020 it broke at number three right at the radius. Back in the day we did not use anything more than .010
Sometimes people used to turn in cranks for cores with burned rod journals, I don't know if this happened here but it's a great argument for not using using excessively machined parts.
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 4:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Don't throw these away. If you did throw away where is away?
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 2:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

[img]https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1416894.jpg[/
STD/STD. 69mm cranks late model cross drilled
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 2:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So we located a std std crank outta the stash and checked dimension at 2.163 which is within limits. We will clean this spotless, use a 10x magnifier look for obvious cracks, ring it and call it good. Yes we checked runout too. We won't magniflux this but if we did its a simple matter of using increasing A/C current which magnifies the part then pass a fluorescent fluid with ferrous metal particles which will line up to reveal cracks. We did check dowels no evidence of loose flywheel and threads good on both ends. Been a long time since this part has seen daylight but its a good one. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 3:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Increasing a/c magnetizes steel part. Damn spellcheck strikes again
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 3:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That Isky cam's specs are very similar to CB Performance's "cheater cam". Would work well with small dual carbs and your spare, non-counterweighted crank.

Have you considered making up your own set of duals, using a pair of the 34PICT shown on your tailgate? Find the two best based on the tightness (lack of play) of the throttle shafts, remove the entire choke mechanism, then saw off the choke housing to make the carb narrower. Find some used Kadron steel intake manifolds, cut the top carb flange and rotate it a quarter turn, then reweld so that the PICT's attachment studs retain the fore/aft orientation. Relocate the left carb's throttle arm to the right side of the carb, and use a GeneBerg linkage with its two down-rod design. I've not done this setup yet, but have the carbs, linkage and have given this method some thought.

Then again, you probably already have your own ideas as to the carburetion.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rome wrote:
That Isky cam's specs are very similar to CB Performance's "cheater cam". Would work well with small dual carbs and your spare, non-counterweighted crank.

Have you considered making up your own set of duals, using a pair of the 34PICT shown on your tailgate? Find the two best based on the tightness (lack of play) of the throttle shafts, remove the entire choke mechanism, then saw off the choke housing to make the carb narrower. Find some used Kadron steel intake manifolds, cut the top carb flange and rotate it a quarter turn, then reweld so that the PICT's attachment studs retain the fore/aft orientation. Relocate the left carb's throttle arm to the right side of the carb, and use a GeneBerg linkage with its two down-rod design. I've not done this setup yet, but have the carbs, linkage and have given this method some thought.

Then again, you probably already have your own ideas as to the carburetion.


I like that idea Very Happy
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