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Vanagon Coolant Leak
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sped372
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 4:34 am    Post subject: Vanagon Coolant Leak Reply with quote

Just a quick intro... I have owned (and worked extensively on) a 1970 Westy for about ten years now. We've done lots of traveling but with two kids now, we were interested in two real beds.

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Found a nice, mostly original Vanagon a little over an hour away and bought it about a week ago. Made the trip home with no issues.

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Yesterday... Coolant leak!

I guess I should have expected it. Drove the van about 15 minutes yesterday, first it's really moved since the hour-plus drive home, and now today while just sitting there is a drip drip coolant leak from the left-hand head (cold overnight and haven't started since yesterday). I'm watching kids today so don't have time to investigate further than just a quick peek yet.

It looks to be dripping out of the air deflector under the head. Big enough (12" diameter wicked out) puddle on the concrete so far now, was dry yesterday. I have to believe it's from the water jacket seal? Crazy. I can see a tiny 0.5" pill-shaped puddle of coolant near the seal topside. Heads were supposedly just replaced 1,000 miles ago by previous owner.

Anything else to look at/for besides the obvious? Should I start it up and see if the leak gets worse (under pressure)? I put a catch pan under there for now. I need to try to get a better look from unerneath... not sure if I have to pull that piece of tin or maybe can see using a mirror. Wiped off the bit on top to see if that comes back, which I feel would be strange while sitting. All new to me though.

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seventyfo
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 4:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check all the hoses over top of the engine maybe the crossover pipe connection is leaking and running down the wires and dropping onto the head from above.
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 4:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sadly, that photo does appear to be a head seal....... Sad
Not unusual, but it shouldn't leak there either.
If it is the head, there's really no simple mechanical fix short of head removal. The head studs and nuts are mostly submerged in coolant and sealed to the case with sealant.
If You rotate them, to hopefully tighten and stop the leak, you tear the sealant, now you have coolant in your crankcase if they leak! ...... NOT good.

Some have removed one head nut at a time, resealed it and torqued it, a better way....... but you violate bolt tightening sequences....... What's the risk?

If you find a loose head nut you must ask why?
Not to be a Debbie downer but studs pulling out of the case isn't unheard of, nor are broken studs.

Others swear by the Subaru leak stop designed for their engines, others swear at it.

There aren't any easy answers here, you need to weigh each option and determine what level of risk you are willing to assume.

Wash the engine off to remove existing drips and such.

Pressure test the unit.

If you determine that it is a head leak, pop the valve cover and check for tightness of each nut without rotating it.
But it is sealed to the head! How do you not rotate it?!?
Conundrum.......

If you don't own a pressure tester........

Make one.
BTW this unit can also be used quite effectively to bleed the cooling system after repairs have been made to the engine or cooling system. I carry one when I travel.

Go to a big box store and buy a $12 yard chemical pump up sprayer.

Cut the nozzle off and remove the hose from the radiator cap to the fill tank.
Clamp on the sprayer hose. Fill sprayer with water, or antifreeze mix if you prefer, and pump it up.

Let it sit over night.

In the morning, pump it up again and examine for puddles under the entire length of the Van.

Coolant leaks typically reveal themselves best when the engine is Cold.

Dave
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Welcome to the world of Wasserboxers. For what it's worth, mine began with a small leak that would only occur after a cold night. I decided to press my luck and it let go abruptly & completely 5,000 miles later.

Any chance the prior owner had the head replaced by a pro who would stand behind his work? Might be worth asking.

Sorry to see this so soon in your ownership.
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sped372
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 6:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I spoke with his mechanic before the purchase and he seemed like a stand-up guy. Might be worth another call.
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 7:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

While it sure looks like the head seal is weeping in the picture's, do pressure test the system to get a concrete verification of where it's coming from first.

Maybe the mechanic you're going to be calling would do this for you--

Bummer--
Don't get rid of the 70 yet--the Vangaon might be down for a smidgen' if it turns out to be the seal.

Perhaps you can work out some kind of remuneration deal with the guy that sold it to you.
Another headache--

Good Luck,
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sped372
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pulled the lower tin and it looks dry under (above?) there. Wiped the catch pan out and going to see if any drips appear so I can hopefully spot the origin instead of just seeing it coming out of the tin. Had maybe 2 tablespoons of coolant in the pan overnight.

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Is it safe to drive without that tin on temporarily? I know all tin is vital on the aircooleds, but not sure if so with water. Guessing it's more just protection for the pushrod tubes than cooling.

So the pressure test... running it isn't effective? You need to leave pressure on it overnight? Any worries about overpressurizing? Thanks, guys.
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No problems pressure testing the system.

You may see exactly where it might be faster that you think--

This would be the best way of pinpointing the source of the leak pronto--

Won't hurt anything --just as long as you keep the pressure down to 15-20 psi.

You can drive without the push rod cover --just don't go off roading.
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djkeev
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Agree, Do not exceed 20 psi +/-

If you are using a cheap garden sprayer, they typically run 30-40 psi fully pumped.

Just give it a couple of strokes, don't get carried away.

Leave it overnight? No, you don't need to, but small leaks will be revealed if you do.
A cold engine is important for most leaks occur when coolant bits contract when cool.

Many leaks will self heal with a hot engine.
On a few leaks, they only show themselves hot! Go figure.......

Dave
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 10:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pushrod tubes have the look of a recent repair or some crazy good maintenance. I believe the tin is simply for protection, not for ducting like on the air cooled motors.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 11:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found a small hose over the top of the engine that was weeping slightly. I was able to track a small trail of coolant starting at the bottom of the engine and working upwards. The drips were coming from the outboard end of the head, nowhere near the block-to-head seal. The trail went straight upward from there, to the intake manifold, and then over to just under that little hose. Snugged up the hose clamp. Cross your fingers for us that it really was that easy!

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Thankfully the areas I was looking at were clean from the recent head replacement... rest of the engine bay needs a detail!
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 11:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beginners Luck!
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very possible... or karma from all the roadside repairs on the '70? Smile

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks familiar. I drove a '71 Bus for 22 years as a DD. Wink
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mark my words, you're going to come to miss the simplicity of that old Air Cooled!

Dave
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 11:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

True!

I only browsed this thread but hope you have not sold a bay in such beautiful shape - it will make a fabulous gift for your kids when they are grown, and will only be more of an interesting vehicle by then.

It is now time to think about your repair skills, tools, working space & time -- or to consider an engine swap.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I really don't think we'll be able to part with the bay... too many memories.

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The Vanagon might just be a temporary solution for a few years. I like it, but it's definitely short on some charm compared to the Bus. But wowza it feels like a mansion inside! It was a difficult decision to even consider 'upgrading' but we'll see how it goes.
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was a Bay owner for 22 years and while I love the style I can't live without the room and heat and power of the Vanagon. To each his own though. Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 1:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting about the size comments....... It"s been so many years since I spent significant time in an old Bay Camper (68 in the early 70's) that I've no reference point to the Vanagon being huge!

BTW My Wife thinks the Vanagon is kinda small...... Rolling Eyes

Dave
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

djkeev wrote:

BTW My Wife thinks the Vanagon is kinda small...... Rolling Eyes

Dave


Put her in a bay.... Very Happy Laughing
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Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

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