First time painter

[Corney13]

I have a '63 Bug that I have been working on for about a year and a half so far. When I got it, most of it had a crappy paint job that I was able to remove with a razor blade. I have done some rust repair and and even grafted in a ragtop.

Anyway, as for paint, I bought some of that aerospace grade Deft Epoxy primer off of ebay and have sprayed the body. Considering this was my first time, I think it came out pretty good. My plan was to high build over that and then single stage. Not sure what would come out better for a first timer? I am going non-metallic (Gulf Blue L390). I have been doing research as I go instead of before, and as I am learning, I probably should have worked with a paint system instead. What is interesting, is that when I go to my local auto paint supply store, the guy there is not suggesting a paint system, he is suggesting one brand of high build and another for the topcoat. (can't remember the brands of the top of my head). Is that strange to you, or is it not a problem? I realize that as this is my first time, it may not be perfect, but I want to try my best to do a good job on something that will last.

[buguy]

Thats pretty normal. I think its because most systems dont include high build primers. I would use a poly high build primer. I prefer Evercoat Slick Sand myself. It fills pinholes, locks down bodywork (meaning it wont show through) seems to stick to everything (dirt and all), dries fast, and has really high build. Bad thing is, you really need a gun with a big tip to spray it well. I use a 2.8mm tip, but I used to use a 2.3mm tip that also worked well.

As for paint, single stage is just fine. Im on the fence as to whats better. Single stage, you make less passes, but many times it requires more color than basecoat (more coats than basecoat, but less than the base and clear combined). But I think base/clear is more forgiving and a bit tougher with better UV protection. Single stage "usually" is a little cheaper. Pick your poison.

[Corney13]

Thanks, I will pick up some Evercoat. Do you have any suggestions for products to get a slight unevenness in the hood (Looks like the PO hammered out a dent). I can't really see it well now, but I can feel it and sure when it gets a coat of paint on it, it will be noticeable. I feel that it is the toughest spot on the car to get straight..... Or curved, that is.

[jspbtown]

I like the Evercoat G2 as well. I have thinned it down a bit (10% acetone) and have sprayed is successfully with a 1.8mm tip.

Whatever product you get make sure you stir it THOROUGHLY. It takes a while to get everything into suspension.

Plastic filler is perfect for getting out the unevenness in a panel. Use the good stuff (I like Rage Gold).

Also pick up some guidecoat to help your finish sanding. Its cheap and makes sanding the high build easier.

[buguy]

About any of the evercoat polys are good. I tried the G2 and the superbuild a few times and didnt like them as well as I did the Slick Sand. And yes you can thin any of it down. Just remember when you thin it, you will lose build. When you have a gun with a big tip, you can really pound that unreduced superbuild on. Also if you can, plan to try to sand it asap after spraying. The sooner you get to it, the easier it is to sand. I love the way the Evercoat polys are dry in a couple hours. As said, hit it with a guide coat and go for it. Id stick with a 12" block or just a bit smaller for the tighter stuff. Not much bigger if at all for the roof and such.
Also if your inclined, you can paint over the poly, But I think its easier to get it to 220 grit or so, then spray it with a final primer.

[Corney13]

Would I spray it again with epoxy primer? (Probably not the Deft stuff)
Not too many layers? What "final" primer would you recommend?

I can probably sand it pretty quickly, but may have to wait a week or two for the next coat, be it primer or top coat.

Found a 2.5 tip gun on eBay for $30.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/331596337707?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[jspbtown]

The evercoat products will be just fine for a few weeks. Its good to give them time to fully cure.

Most epoxies can be reduced and used as a final sealer. I have sprayed right over G2 on several cars and never had a problem. You would want to finish sanding with something finer than 220 though.

Kirker makes some affordable primers if you can't use your epoxy and want to use a sealer.

Don't use those cup filters when spraying the high build..it will plug them right up.

[buguy]

Thats good advice! That gun you linked will be just fine. You shouldnt need to spray epoxy again. But you will have to sand the epoxy before the bodywork or high build. So if you get a huge area sanded through the epoxy, you may want to hit that spot with some more. If you dont, unless you can and want to reduce the epoxy as a sealer, you wont have to spray more of that.
Final primer can be whatever you can find locally. Just tell them a 2k primer surfacer. Should be able to find some for around the $80 mark. It will just spray on much smoother than the high build poly and will also sand easier.

Here is what I would do. Get some 120-220 grit and a 12" sanding block (Durablock set is good to have http://www.amazon.com/DuraBlock-Sanders-DURABLOC-DURA-BLOCK-PRODUCTS/dp/B003978QIE) and guide coat, and dry block the epoxy. This will show where your high and low spots are.
Do your bodywork best you can.
Spray 3 coats of your high build.
Block that dry with some 120 then again with 220. Be sure to blow it off, clean it with wax and grease remover and guide coat in between grits.
Do any more bodywork you may have missed (and you will miss some) and feather in more high build in those spots.
Guide and resand those areas.
Once your happy with that, you can either blow it off and clean it, then spray a couple coats of your 2k final primer, and guide that, get a bucket and some 400 grit wet and get after it.
Or if there is enough high build left on the car, you can go right to wet sanding with 400. Its cheaper to go right to wet sanding the high build, but it might be more work getting the 220 scratches out with 400 than it would be to final prime it, then wetsand with 400. Its a toss up. Then your ready for paint.

[Corney13]

Thank you all for the advice! I will report back when I have made some more progress.

[Corney13]

Not to get ahead of myself, but when it comes time to do the final topcoat, would you recommend leaving the car apart and painting everything separately, or attaching the doors, hood, decklid and fenders and painting the car that way. I see that there are reasons for both.

I was thinking that I would paint the dash, door jams, engine bay, inside the trunk, and the backside of the doors, fenders, hood and decklid, then reassemble and paint the exterior in one shot. (The little extras would still be painted separately.) Or, I would leave the car completely apart and paint everything separately, reassembling after paint.

What do you guys recommend??

[jspbtown]

do it like you verbalized in your first thought.

Paint the tough areas and then re-assemble for the rest of the car.

[buguy]

If your spraying a solid color, id do it all apart.

[Corney13]

[buguy]

It would really be no different between BC/CC and single stage. You would just have to do some well thought out masking. Do interior, jambs, engine bay, bottom of decklid...etc.. then spray your paint and clear (if BC/CC) then once its dry mask it up and reassemble. Fenders would go on loosly or with shims so you can get behind them. Paint and clear as normal then pull your mask and do any blending needed.

[Corney13]

I am about to spray Evercoat Slicksand over the epoxy. Am I correct to assume that I should assemble the car and only spray the exterior? (Meaning NO dash, door jams, engine bay, trunk, under fenders, back side of hood, doors and deck lid). I would then sand and then take the car back apart to 2k sealer primer the whole car and finally BC/CC. Does that sound correct?

[digdug18]

[Corney13]

[oldskool]

Subbing to this thread because I'm at the exact same spot; major work done and epoxied- ready for high build.

Right now, I'm thinking like you in that the high-build primer will go on only the exterior and I'll tape off the jambs- unless someone else says otherwise.
_________________
-chris
www.primer3d.com