Adding oil sump. Pros and cons..

[Abscate]

Benefits of a sump for a daily driver are to the manufacturers of oil and their profit margins.

VW designated an oil change interval so that the oil is changed before its lubricating properties are lost. If you add sump, you can extend that interval in proportion to the new oil capacity, but:

Cooling
Horsepower increases
Curing baldness
Longer engine life

None of these stand up to scrutiny of benchmark tests. I'll wager 99 percent of air cooled engines don't reach end of life cycle due to oil wear but some other reason.
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[madmike]

I have 1 1/2 qt on my 70 bus with 2110cc full flow can be tricky with the
'stashbar' & headers
no they don't cool the oil! maybe 1 or 2 degrees :shock:The aux cooler with fan does that!
off-road two-tracking is a bit tricky but I do it all the time ,I've bent the edge of the sump plate on sexStones up here but never broke a sump
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'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works"

[DONGKG]

I installed the oil sump this weekend. It was fun in the process and I really noticed the sudden drop in the temperature and how clean the oil stays. But the looks of the oil sump exposed underneath is pretty scary especially on off road situations. I guess that would be a challenge post in the future in the event that our camping venue will require us to travel light off road driving. I am driving the bus to work now and I can feel that the engine is benefiting from that upgrade. I guess, it's worth it.I will post the pics soon!

thanks,

Dong
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'67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20

[Mellow Yellow 74]

[madmike]

Northern michigan slang for big "F*&King Rock"
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'Black Ice'Drag Buggy 'Turbo'
Rail Buggy 1915 turbo
76 Drag/Street bug 2180cc 'Turbo' 11:85 @113 mph"If I go any faster I'll burn up the Hamster" ,gets 28 mpg. also 10/09/22 11.90 @115 mph
"If I'm ever on Life Support,UNPLUG Me, Then Plug me back In see if that Works"

[Tom Powell]

[DONGKG]

[mikedjames]

The other thing that is misleading on increasing oil volume is that it takes longer to settle on an operating temperature.

So a hill climb will not heat a larger volume of oil to such a high temperature but the heat is still there and it will run hotter on the down grade for longer to make up for it.

On my bus it does not reach peak oil temperature until it has been driven at 65-70mph for 10 miles. No deep sump as it was lowered by somebody a long time ago...only full flow and long hoses to the cooler adding another 1.5 quarts to the capacity.
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Ancient vehicles and vessels

1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.

1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy

[Wildthings]

Remember that slow warm up is a major reason for engine wear so adding a deep sump if you don't really need it may actually shorten engine life. For myself i will stick with running a high viscosity index synthetic oil (usually a 5w40) and let it do its thing. I have long run enough extra oil so that the stock oil sump is full to overflowing and feel this has a positive effect on engine life.

[DONGKG]

This is the step by step I made in installing the oil sump.Although I have posted this already on my bay window thread, I hope this will not be considered as a re-post.

The vice grip came in handy in removing the original small stubs.

Checking on the removed oil strainer and other hardwares needed.

The silicon gasket maker was likewise essential during the installation and the surfaces of both the engine sump and that of the aftermarket oil sump
must be double checked for possible uneven surfaces; otherwise, the chances of the oil leaking is likely to happen.

Tightening each and every bolt required patience and the unnecessary force should not be applied.

The washers were replaced too considering that they were already flat like a sheet of paper.

The bolts of the oil strainer should be tightened equally and evenly and one at a time.

After installing the same, I drove test the bus and left it running of a few minutes.It turned out to be positive. The temperature was moderate and after a few days of driving, the oil stayed clean.

Thanks,

Dong
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'67 KG Cabrio (Mickey) ;
'66 Type 3 (Sharky 2)
'72 Type 2 Homey
'67 Splitty Bus
'65 beetle;'69 Country Buggy; '44 Kubelwagen (replica) TOOB MEMBER #20

[Manfreds78bay]

I'm thinking about adding the sump only to solve a stripped drain plug.

I've tried a time insert and it did not hold. The drain plug holds well enough, but it does leak. I'd like to avoid the drill and tap method because where does it end? And these cases are rare as it is. If this thing gets stripped, its and easy fix.

Before you get after me for stripping it out in the first place. I've never over torqued the drain plug. I'm sure it has been over tighten over the years which caused the issue in the first place.

I've driving this thing across the country and never had an issue with cooling or thinking I need more oil for any reason. I've done plenty of long climbs and so forth.
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1978 2.0L FI Campmobile

1982 AMC Eagle SX4 4.2L FI

[airschooled]

They make sumps for Type 4 engines?

Edit: that looks like a modified Type 1 sump. How does it attach? I took mine off a few months installing it because the oil took soooo long to warm up i got yogurt in my oil cap.

Robbie
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Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
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[Spike0180]

[Spike0180]

[SGKent]

lived in Los Angeles basin for years with a 1971 bus. Found that a low profile sump was the only way to control oil temps on hot days on long grades. That said, it had to come off every fall and back on every summer. Once outside temps drop below 80F the oil would never warm up if the sump was on.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[Abscate]

Sumps are for chumps.
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.ssS!