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Saggy butt measurement for rear torsion bars 70' bus
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wcfvw69 Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 10:20 am    Post subject: Saggy butt measurement for rear torsion bars 70' bus Reply with quote

So, Colin was here a couple of months ago. He said my butt was saggy. I know, so hurtful.. Laughing My bus needs to have the torsion bar donuts changed as the covers have never been off. I've read several threads about the process and have done it on my bug.

What I'm curious about is if there a measurement from the ground to the top of the fender with the correct size tires? I'm just curious as I have put a level on the drip rail, sliding door opening and other spots. They all show the bus to be level (while it's parked on level ground). Looking at the bus, it has a nose up look to it.

I've also read somewhere (I can't find it now) that there's a measurement from somewhere on the transmission to the ground. I understand that Bentley has degree settings on the spring plate depending on which bar is in it. I'm just curious if any has got there bus back to the correct, none saggy butt and measured the ground to the fender.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 10:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done this job a couple times and never measured anything. Not even the angle of degrees. The splines are different on the inside and outside of the torsion bar. I turn the bar one spline to raise the rear and then move the spring plate one spline the other direction. This has worked well for me. Once I did somehow go too much and then had to go back and do the job over. The spring plate was banging into the stop going over bumps. So, to be more clear... I slid the whole bar out from the bus with the spring plate still attached. Then rotated one spline in the raise direction. Once the bar was back in place, I slid the spring plate off the outside splines of the bar and turned it one spline in the lower direction.

Final result
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 11:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Gary,

That's a great looking bus! It's hard for me to tell ride height. That 71/72 bus in your pics appears to be a bit too high in the rear or maybe it's the camera angles?

This pic is from an early bay from the Factory literature. When I see a early bay that doesn't have a saggy butt, it always appears to me visually that you can see 7/8's of the tire. The other 1/8 is hidden inside the fender well.

This is why I was curious if anyone had some measurements to compare each others buses to each others if were running the same size/type of tires.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

According to the 1970 owners manual, a camper bus (Westphalia's) height is 80". I went and measured mine. It's 79 1/2" with the stock size tires. I measured up in the center of the rear fender well. I have 23" to the bottom of the fender well to the ground. So, I'm assuming the rear end is sagging 1/2". I can only "see" about 3/4's of my rear tire in the fender well, so this may be right.

If anyone else happens to have measured there rear end fender to ground or trans to ground after resetting their torsion bars to factory degree settings, I'd be curious to know them. Very Happy
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 12:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to watch going off body lines and non fixed points.
Tires by size differ slightly from Manufacturer to Mnf.
The trans mounts may be soft and the trans is sagging.
When they stamped out the wheel wells and installed them. They had a + or - tolerance (exaggeration -0.5" to +0.5") would give you a 1" variant.

You would do better to take the measurement from the frame to the ground to get a closer comparison.

That 71/72 bus in your pics appears to be a bit too high in the rear or maybe it's the camera angles?
Probably just the passenger tires aeromech has on there throwing your eye off.

Laughing
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:

Factory literature.
I was curious if anyone had some measurements to compare each others buses to each others if were running the same size/type of tires.


Bill? Let it go. There is only one measurement that can cover all these variables of load and tire size, photographs from the factory literature are "sanitized".

Just measure your spring plate angles off the stops. I recommend 23*, new bushings, button it up and drive.
Colin

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 2:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm about to tackle this job myself as well on my 1970, but I'm trying to bring it down a bit since I have Oldspeed 2" drop spindles up front and the nose-down rake (IMO) is just not right. It's also bugged me that my driver side is .5" lower than my passenger side in the back. I'm researching adjustable spring plates and everything else I need before embarking on the job, but not finding many quality options. I saw Atomwerk has some, but not seeing any posts on them. I'm thinking of dialing things to stock with the angle measurement and then bringing things down ~1" in back. Oh, and I know that it's open to a ton of variables, but I measured ground to fenderwell and had 23-3/4" on passenger side and 23-1/4" driver side. Good luck!

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 4:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is a really simple tool to help get the angles right. It is cut at the 23* angle and sits against the bottom of the frame runners. You just visually compare the angle of the spring plate to the cut of the board. Pretty much all you need to make such are a speed square and a circular saw.

If I make another it will be even simpler to make than what is shown.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 4:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree, set it at 23 and let the springs do the rest, and far too many variables with tires and fender lips.

But if you're bent on doing it the hard way how about 57.5" from the axle center to the top of the drip rail Wink
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 4:46 pm    Post subject: Torsion Bar Adjustment Reply with quote

With a tape measure you are not going to be able to get a starting measurement to calculate the adjustments needed to achieve your desired end measurement.

A Protractor is the best tool for the job.
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Here is something to consider as well. The Torsion bars sometimes develop a set, different spring rates, lets face it they are not new anymore. So there have been members that have adjusted both sides to the same (*) degrees and end up with a uneven ride height.
Taking this into consideration you really need two (*) degree measurements to calculate the final ride height.
Spring plate angle with Vehicle at rest.
Spring plates popped and at rest.

Good luck
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 7:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Torsion Bar Adjustment Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
With a tape measure you are not going to be able to get a starting measurement to calculate the adjustments needed to achieve your desired end measurement.

Not necessarily.............., you could eyeball a setting and then spend 2+ hrs reassembling/aligning/bleeding, then test drive to settle it in and then measure. Then if it was wrong (very likely) you'd repeat the process over and over until it was close (many many more hours), I prefer to do it once myself, protractors are cheap and if you sort of paid attention in math you only really need a ruler and a calculator or piece of paper and pencil.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 7:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used an angle finder, similar to the one Tcash posted. I set mine at 25.5*, it rides nice, doesn't top out on the stops and handles loads well. Had I known about 23* I would have set it to that. New bushings is a must when you are doing this job and don't forget to coat them in talcum powder.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 7:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

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Colin- I know.. I know.. I can get a bit OCD Laughing

This picture of your 70' looks "right" (to me) as far as the stance and how the rear tire looks in the rear fender.

What irritates me is that I "meant" to steal those measurements off Chloe when she was in the drive way. They would of been used as a simple comparison to mine. I've read on both sites that the vast majority of folks liked 23* on the spring plates, off the rests. With you and Bus Daddy liking that number, I'll run w/it after changing the spring plate bushings.

Thanks to the others for your impute as well.
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 9:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Torsion Bar Adjustment Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Tcash wrote:
With a tape measure you are not going to be able to get a starting measurement to calculate the adjustments needed to achieve your desired end measurement.

Not necessarily.............., you could eyeball a setting and then spend 2+ hrs reassembling/aligning/bleeding, then test drive to settle it in and then measure. Then if it was wrong (very likely) you'd repeat the process over and over until it was close (many many more hours), I prefer to do it once myself, protractors are cheap and if you sort of paid attention in math you only really need a ruler and a calculator or piece of paper and pencil.


It sounds like you are for using a protractor to set the ride height.
Or am I misunderstanding you?
Tcash
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 01, 2015 10:22 pm    Post subject: Re: Torsion Bar Adjustment Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
Tcash wrote:
With a tape measure you are not going to be able to get a starting measurement to calculate the adjustments needed to achieve your desired end measurement.

Not necessarily.............., you could eyeball a setting and then spend 2+ hrs reassembling/aligning/bleeding, then test drive to settle it in and then measure. Then if it was wrong (very likely) you'd repeat the process over and over until it was close (many many more hours), I prefer to do it once myself, protractors are cheap and if you sort of paid attention in math you only really need a ruler and a calculator or piece of paper and pencil.


It sounds like you are for using a protractor to set the ride height.
Or am I misunderstanding you?
Tcash

Absolutely, putting it together and measuring, then redoing repeatedly until correct would be a waste of time, my post was a theoretical waste of time so to speak Razz
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 8:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 wrote:

This picture of your 70' looks "right" (to me) as far as the stance and how the rear tire looks in the rear fender.

What irritates me is that I "meant" to steal those measurements off Chloe when she was in the drive way.


Remember, that shot was unladen. In your driveway I was laden, especially after dinner.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 8:31 am    Post subject: Re: Torsion Bar Adjustment Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Tcash wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
Tcash wrote:
With a tape measure you are not going to be able to get a starting measurement to calculate the adjustments needed to achieve your desired end measurement.

Not necessarily.............., you could eyeball a setting and then spend 2+ hrs reassembling/aligning/bleeding, then test drive to settle it in and then measure. Then if it was wrong (very likely) you'd repeat the process over and over until it was close (many many more hours), I prefer to do it once myself, protractors are cheap and if you sort of paid attention in math you only really need a ruler and a calculator or piece of paper and pencil.


It sounds like you are for using a protractor to set the ride height.
Or am I misunderstanding you?
Tcash

Absolutely, putting it together and measuring, then redoing repeatedly until correct would be a waste of time, my post was a theoretical waste of time so to speak Razz


So essentially we are in agreement. A tape measure is not the right tool for the job?
Sincerely
Tcash

The thought I had when writing that statement was as follows.
wcfvw69 asked "What I'm curious about is if there a measurement from the ground to the top of the fender with the correct size tires?"
What came to mind was that you cannot take measurements from another bus to calculate your adjustment.
There are to many vairiables.
Tire size difference from Mnf. to Mnf.
Torsion bars possibly different sizes from the factory.
Torsion bars taking a set and developing different spring rates.
Fuel level.
Cargo on board.
Interior layout.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 8:37 am    Post subject: Re: Torsion Bar Adjustment Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
Tcash wrote:
busdaddy wrote:
Tcash wrote:
With a tape measure you are not going to be able to get a starting measurement to calculate the adjustments needed to achieve your desired end measurement.

Not necessarily.............., you could eyeball a setting and then spend 2+ hrs reassembling/aligning/bleeding, then test drive to settle it in and then measure. Then if it was wrong (very likely) you'd repeat the process over and over until it was close (many many more hours), I prefer to do it once myself, protractors are cheap and if you sort of paid attention in math you only really need a ruler and a calculator or piece of paper and pencil.


It sounds like you are for using a protractor to set the ride height.
Or am I misunderstanding you?
Tcash

Absolutely, putting it together and measuring, then redoing repeatedly until correct would be a waste of time, my post was a theoretical waste of time so to speak Razz


So essentially we are in agreement. A tape measure is not the right tool for the job?
Sincerely
Tcash

The thought I had when writing that statement was as follows.
wcfvw69 asked "What I'm curious about is if there a measurement from the ground to the top of the fender with the correct size tires?"
What came to mind was that you cannot take measurements from another bus to calculate your adjustment.
There are to many vairiables.
Tire size difference from Mnf. to Mnf.
Torsion bars possibly different sizes from the factory.
Torsion bars taking a set and developing different spring rates.
Fuel level.
Cargo on board.
Interior layout.

Yes, all of the above, plus front beam stiffness and gas or non gas shocks.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wcfvw69 it seems in your minds eye, you have a certain height and tire reveal that you would like to achieve. Unfortunately to achieve the desired results may require trial and error.

Torsion bars Adjustment

Good luck
Tcash

Talking about having to reset the height. When we would do the 911's. A couple of us would push down on the car repeatedly. The shop floor was smooth and painted and the tires would chirp as the suspension was coming back to rest.
Sometimes just from the car sitting overnight the height would change.
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 02, 2015 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Again, I appreciate everyone's thoughts and feedback.

Now, for clarity and in my defense Laughing , I wasn't going to set the rear height to achieve a specific distance between the ground and the fender or match someone's else's measurement between them. It's just that at times I look at my bus and think "I'm not sure the rear is really sagging to much?" So, if there was a basic number, it would of been interesting to compare.

I'd read most of the threads on setting the bus's torsion bars before posting this question. I saw that 23* number mentioned in several of them. Colin and Bus Daddy reinforced that's the number to use. If it's wrong, I'll expect both of them to be here next week and personally reset it so It's right. Very Happy

Thanks again everyone.
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