EJ22 into Aircooled Vanagon 2.0L to Subaru 2.2L Conversion

[chompy]

So here are a few quick questions for the forum...

1.) It seems like people have had a lot of trouble with the LUK clutch kits. They are considered "OEM", whatever that means nowadays . But I've heard nothing but good things about Sachs. Does LUK still make questionable clutch kits or have they addressed this lately?

2.) The currently installed crankshaft seal is the preferred brown one, but the one that is heading my way via Fedex is a black timken seal. Should I just hold onto the the timken seal and leave the good looking brown seal installed, or switch it out for the less desired black timken seal?\

3.) Engine mounts for the EJ22 all seem to be the round style? Should I be searching for the square mounts, or is the difference negligible?

I'd appreciate some input. Thanks!
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'81 Westfalia Subaru EJ22
Manual Transmission

[ajdenette]

One comment I have after some bad experiences is to use a genuine Subaru metal water pump gasket I install them dry and have not had any issues like I have had with the paper ones.
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1985 2wd Westy with 2000 Subaru 2.2 current driver
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=685635
1986 Syncro Doka Project next in line
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=732777
1990 Vanagon Syncro Base awaiting body work

[chompy]

[chompy]

More pictures to look at!

So I cleaned up the valve covers, and the mating surface and installed them with new grommets and a gasket, which is installed dry.

The gates water pump comes with the metal gasket. I used a very thin film of sealant to hold it in place, and for sealant assurance. I also got a gates thermostat. It's nice and long, like an OEM Subaru thermostat, and I really stand by Gates products.

I installed the oil pump with a new seal and viton o-ring. I used a thin film of sealant on the surface of the engine and the pump and let it "tack" before pushing it all together and tightening down the bolts. I also put a new oil pan gasket on the way I've always known to do it(cork gasket with a thin smear of grease). The Subaru people swear by the grey sealant, so we'll see if this leaks. I am planning on eventually getting a shortened oil pan, so I'm not too worried.

Installed the new Gates timing belt, idlers(26-32 ft. lbs), and tensioner(17-20 ft. lbs). The bottom-right sprocket was a bit difficult to get in place, but I eventually got it on with some leverage.

Timing belt covers in place. Timing belt cover bolts 3.6 ft. lb. I also tightened the crank shaft bolt by putting a screw driver through the torque converter cover in the rear which locks it in place. Crank Shaft Bolt 69-76 ft. lbs

alternator belt(Belt is Gates Part #K050275) and Intake in place. Intake bolts 21-25 ft. lb

The engine is mostly ready to be installed in the van at this point. I have the Kennedy Adapter on order with some other parts that I still have to throw on.

I decided to go with the KIA Sportage radiator that notahipy mentioned earlier. I like the idea of the front fill option with overflow tank up front as well. I am going to see if I can use the subaru fan. I've measured it out compared to the Sportage radiator, and it only needs about 3" of scoop at the edges to ensure I get some good air pulling through.

I'm also hoping to use the subaru relays for the radiator fan, but there isn't a ton of information online about this. I'll mostly be relying on the wiring diagrams I think. If anyone has pictures of their setup or wiring drawings/diagrams, I'd appreciate it.

I pulled my water tank out, which I haven't ever used in the time I've owned this van. We usually take portable water tanks which are more suitable for our use. I'll be putting the ECU, relays, igniter, test plugs, etc... under the rear seat to keep them dry. I'll also be sourcing a rear heater core/blower from here if someone has a spare they want to be rid of. In the early stages of working with the cooling system I'll be looping the heater lines to be sure I don't have a bubble in that area.

Once again, any tips, wisdom or pictures are appreciated. Thanks!
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'81 Westfalia Subaru EJ22
Manual Transmission

[chompy]

Hey everyone, so I've ordered my Ford F150 muffler and a universal cat with an O2 bung. My KEP adapter is in the works, and will be arriving.... sometime. I'm planning on pulling the aircooled motor in the beginning of January, as I'm still waiting for parts and working out the cooling situation. To think I was happy driving down the California coast with this center mounted abomination:

So here's my situation with the radiator fan. I've been working on using the ECU signal(D17) and a single relay(pulled from the Subaru) to run the original Subaru radiator fan. This will have a 20amp fuse and is very simple. Here's my crappy wiring diagram.

This fan has three wires that come off of it(yellow/red, lime/black and black which is the ground). Either one of positive leads make the fan spin. Normally the lime/black wire would lead to the AC fan but it will also run the fan when connected to a battery, which is where my question comes into play. These leads share the same ground in the plug, but go to separate areas on the fan housing. See in the picture?

Normally I would have suspected they were high/low speeds, but I really can't tell a difference between the two if there is one. So do I cut the unneeded wire(lime/black) that would normally go to the other fan, or just tie it in with the yellow/red wire? I've tested it for a second with them both tied together and it ran, but I would hate for it to damage the fan, and/or start a fire. I'm also hesitant to cut the lime/black wire out if it could somehow be utilized.

I would really appreciate anyone's input on this.
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'81 Westfalia Subaru EJ22
Manual Transmission

[chompy]

A new update involving the radiator and an answer to my previous question. I messed with the fan a bit more and realized that tying the two leads together does indeed give you the high speed function for the fan. I then soldered those two lines together, which will lead to the original subaru relay.

Here's some pictures of how I got the subaru fan to match up with the kia sportage radiator. I used some ducting and rivets, with sealant and aluminum tape. I also used silicon weather stripping to be sure there is some good positive pressure when the fan is going.

This was a test to see how the sheetmetal held up when standing vertically.

and here it is with some brackets I made to add vertical strength.

Here is the height I have it mounted in the van. It allows just enough room to remove the radiator cap and put a hose to feed coolant into. I still have to work out the overflow tank...

I used the center bottom mount that the KIA utilizes, but I couldn't get a good shot because there was so much rain at the time. I'll get one tomorrow hopefully if it's not pouring so badly. Here are shots of the two top mounts of the radiator that I attached through the fresh air vents with brackets. It's nice and sturdy, but the grommets let it move just enough.

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'81 Westfalia Subaru EJ22
Manual Transmission

[notahipy]

nice work, I also used the subaru fan and your shroud looks great. I may copy that someday. I to currently also run the fan on high always but find the wire gets warmer than I like, so I plan to use a second relay and restore the high/low speeds of the fan. again you have done some good work.

[chompy]

[chompy]

Update!

First I thought I'd show how I used the original Subaru radiator mount for the bottom of the Kia Sportage radiator.

So I got most of the coolant lines that run under the body installed. I ended up buying 5 feet of Gates Green Stripe with wire insert coolant hose for the shorter connections, and Gates wire inserted flexible hose for the connections to the radiator and engine. 1.5" EMT was used for the longer lengths. Just be sure to remember that EMT is measured strangely... The label will say 1.5", when it is actually 1.75". When you go to buy it, you will be buying 1.25" EMT which will actually measure 1.5".

The Kia Sportage radiator has 1 3/8" inlet/outlet, while the subaru has 1 1/2" inlet/outlet. Gates sells a flexible hose with wire insert that goes from 1 1/2" to 1 3/8" which worked perfectly. I had to use a coolant hose with a 90* bend along with a coupler to be able to make the tight curve from the upper radiator outlet. I was lucky enough to find a spare piece I had in the garage, which I'm pretty sure came from a 240 Volvo. I'll add the info here when I come up with it.

So here is the routing of the lines.

The connections where the pipes would be bent, I used the wire inserted Gates Green Stripe hose. I'll be double clamping these, although the EMT runs a good 3 inches at least into each hose.

I dropped the fuel tank and removed the connection that blows heat to the rear. I'll be putting a blockoff plate on those vents in the van. I was originally going to place the pipes without removing the tank, but it was much easier this way. I've now removed a vanagon fuel tank 5 times so it's pretty damn quick now. I actually ended up buying a brand new tank so I don't have to think about this anymore in the future.

This is where the pipes go through the rear heater channel to lead to the engine. They cross over here to get the correct flow.

This was my sad attempt at making a bead tool... It couldn't clamp down with enough force to create a bead unfortunately.

And finally, here is my overflow tank secured near the radiator. I bought the correct overflow tubing from Napa. It's made by gates and comes in 3 foot lengths so there's plenty of length to get over to the overflow tank. I connected it to the original overflow tube with a brass barb and clamps.

I'm still waiting on my adapter to come. I was originally going to take a video of the VW engine running, but with the tank removed, I seemed to have missed that opportunity. I'll be pulling the EFI to sell soon, and will drop the engine to sell separately a bit later. I just got some new shocks in today, so I'll be throwing those on while I wait for the adapter.

Thanks for watching!
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'81 Westfalia Subaru EJ22
Manual Transmission

[Vanagon Nut]

from one air to water cooled guy to another....

those hose clamps may cause trouble later.
I used those types of clamps throughout my
swap. One hose recently developed a leak due to one of those clamps. The hose was new at time of install.

I really wish I'd used better clamps. Especially at points where I'd double clamped.

Neil.
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1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[chompy]

[Vanagon Nut]

meant to mention. Leak happened ~ 7 years after swap. But. I've put much less than 100K miles on swap and hose looks near new. I'd always thought those hoses bit into hose at edge but it seems leak was caused at point where clamp "cinches". If that makes sense.

Type I'd suggest are ones with raised edge and serrations. Sorry. Can't find image right now. Looking at silicone hose type, they're likely as good or better? Info in archives here on this?

Neil.
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1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[Av]

I'm in the middle of a similar swap of my own. For your info, One issue I had was with the KEP adapter and mounting bar the air intake was too close to the engine bay firewall. Tom sheils used to make an adapter wedge to tip the intake down but he apparently stopped making them. I made something similar out of hdpe plastic (cheap cutting board).

[chompy]

[vanagon1991]

Fantastic work....great job!
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1991 Tornado Red Vanagon Carat
(2003 Subaru 2.5 conversion/Smallcar kit)

[chompy]

[mrcool]

I'm tuned in, Thanks for posting up all your work, looking good!

[Av]

What type of cat did you get? I bought mine from kep which doesn't have an o2 bung. since my donor is a 95 I need a second bung welded on to the cat. I was going to have a muffer shop weld one on for me but I could be interested in trading.

[Av]

Also, I didn't realize the kep intake was so slim, that might have fit next to my firewall but it would have been real close! I'm interested to find out how yours goes together.

[mackaymanx]