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My 412 these days..
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2020 5:54 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

You may need to adjust your bands. Its hard to reach but is done from the outside. Yes...adjusting the modulator may help but adjust the bands first.

With the headliner in....feel along the drivers side headliner. They have varied in position...from slightly rearward of the B-pillars on some earlier four doors....and dead center on the B-pillar...to maybe an inch or so forward of the B pillar.

As you feel along...pushing the headliner lightly...about an inch above the door line...you will find the depression/hole in the metal underneath.

The way it is done.....from the factory...is to install the headliner complete. Locate the hole...and cut an "x" right in the hole...not all the way to the edge. Do not cut the hole out in a rectangle. The vinyl needs to stay lapped in the hole. Pushing the light fixture in on top of the material pulls it tight. Ray
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ClassicCamper
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2020 8:14 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

Quote:
Yes...adjusting the modulator may help but adjust the bands first.


Could you let me know how the modulator is adjusted? I know some cars have an adjustment screw inside the nipple where the vacuum hose is connected to the modulator on the transmission.

Is this the same for our VW's?
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1973 412 Wagon
1976 Westy
1978 SB Vert
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ClassicCamper
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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2020 8:16 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

Needed a major break from all this electrical work. I've been able to drive the car short distances and it really seems to be running excellent. Since the re-wire, one thing I noticed is the cars performance at idle. Prior to the re-wire, the car was 'hunting' at idle. The speed of the engine would go up and down constantly and once in a while, just stall out.

This has all but disappeared since I put in the new fusebox and cleaned all of the wire connections. Again, I've only drove it short distances so far, but preliminary results are really encouraging.

In addition, the heater now works on the 'on' setting with the ignition on. Prior, the heater only worked in timer mode.

PROGRESS.

So, I decided to do some light work, which ended up being a PITA, but I'm happy it's done. I put the passenger seat back together. Thanks to Ray's parts diagram, I was able to put all the parts back in the right spot. Lesson that I learned: There are TONS of parts to put these seats back together. Be patient.

First thing... Cleaned these things:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


They were really rusty and pitted and I almost decided to paint them. However, I decided to trudge along and use Noxon and aluminum cleaner and just sat in a chair and polished them up.

Next, I worked on the plastic skirt that goes around the bottom of the seat. All of the tabs that fasten the one skirt to the frame were broken off. (the one that you see when you open the door)

What did I do?? Reached out to a fellow Samba member who is selling T4 parts on this site. (name withheld). He quoted me $90 for 1 part of the skirt -- $170 if I took both pieces that completely surround the seat. Rolling Eyes I explained my predicament (tabs broken -- can't screw the thing on) and nicely explained that I felt the part was over- priced.

His response: (including spelling errors)

Quote:
We all need here to make monry and I know your car is a rare bird. If you not taking it at my price im listing it. Everyone knows you cant just crazy glue your broken one back on so you are basically burnt. Listing bunch of parts here and getting premium for it. 90 is my best, if no I'm walking youre loss


I hope this guy reads this, and is a little bit more pleasant to us VW 412 owners. This isn't a rich man's car and I'm willing to pay a fair price But, threatening to 'list' a part in an effort to get me to drop $90.00 on a piece of plastic? Please dude, you just suck. So do all of your prices.

So, what did I do? I proved his 'Krazy-Glue' comment wrong, and repaired my own... using just that:

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Karma truly worked here. I don't typically rant, but this thread is all a part of my journey to bring this car back from the dead and this is part of this. I don't believe in leaving negative feedback unless I feel their parts will hurt another buyer.

I'm still ecstatic on how my crazy glue and little screw technique helped me fix the skirt! Worked like a charm.

Next, I carefully cut a hole in the top of the seatback, and put the head rest in. Was worried I was going to cut in the wrong spot, but it was a success.

Finally! Here is the finished product. I have a nicely buttoned up passenger seat:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Next project: Drivers seat. Thanks for all your continued support!
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1978 SB Vert
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scott3t
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2020 8:02 am    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

The interior is looking great. I like that ingenuity too! Yes, when I see some of these prices for some classified ads I wonder how anyone could ever rebuild/restore anything without spending a complete fortune. But its great when I see how you and others have figured out ways to get it done.

I'll be needing some advise on interior later for sure. But I've got plenty to get to before that I'm afraid.

Keep going!
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Hawker
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2020 12:40 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

There is an old British saying, and it goes like this: “Necessity is the mother of invention”. You certainly followed that!

Well done! You discovered a work around and shared it. Thank you!

I hope the guy never sells another part on this forum with prices and replies like his.

BR,

Rob
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ClassicCamper
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2020 4:30 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

Thanks for all your support, folks! He’s still selling on the Samba. I may even have some spare seat parts to help out anyone that needs them.

Hopefully, I’ll get to the driver seat this weekend.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2020 5:24 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

ClassicCamper wrote:
Quote:
Yes...adjusting the modulator may help but adjust the bands first.


Could you let me know how the modulator is adjusted? I know some cars have an adjustment screw inside the nipple where the vacuum hose is connected to the modulator on the transmission.

Is this the same for our VW's?


Sorry....meant to answer this one.
Yes....4mm alleb key through the vacuum nipple....same as type 3.

Yes....some of the thicker super glues/cyanoacrylates work pretty decent on the seat base plastic.

Epoxy....like JB weld works eveb better.

If it does not hold.....I may have a spare unit......that I will GIVE you. Ray
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Sat Jul 11, 2020 10:48 am    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

raygreenwood wrote:

Yes....some of the thicker super glues/cyanoacrylates work pretty decent on the seat base plastic.

Epoxy....like JB weld works eveb better.


I've used a combo for some work... cyano to make them quickly hold in the correct position, then JB to gusset the joint for strength, and finally a nice thin paint job (with plastic-compatible paint as a primer) to hide the work. Tedious, but if done carefully, may be stronger than original!
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ClassicCamper
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2020 3:52 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

Got a case of the dashboard blues...

My dash was pristine and now it is starting to crack pretty quickly. It's kept indoors and I was hoping someone can give me some tips on how to prevent further cracking.

Here is what I'm dealing with:


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Is there any type of protectant I can put on it to prevent further cracking? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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raygreenwood
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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2020 7:30 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

ClassicCamper wrote:
Got a case of the dashboard blues...

My dash was pristine and now it is starting to crack pretty quickly. It's kept indoors and I was hoping someone can give me some tips on how to prevent further cracking.

Here is what I'm dealing with:




Is there any type of protectant I can put on it to prevent further cracking? Any help would be greatly appreciated.


Damn your hide! quit trying to get me into resto sub-projects I am not yet ready to do! Wink Laughing

So....I have a brand new dash. Its in a cradle in my storage unit. It is the prime piece I took in trade for building the 1.8L. I'm working to get the heads back in the next two weeks. Its like ships passing in the night (me and the machinist).....anyway...until I deliver the 1.8L engine...properly built, installed and running....I do not consider that I fully own the new dash. Call it payment in waiting....a deposit.....so i will not be showing it off until the person getting the 1.8 is happy with what I get to him.

So...before the new dash came along....I spent years working on how to get a good looking, crack free.... livable dash.....and I'm not talking about putting carpet on it! I'm talking about having it look like factory so closely that you would not be able to tell unless you put it next to a factory dash. In that case you will find texture differences.

And....I will be doing this to my old dash....so at some point I will make a how to.

Here is the short gist....there is nothing you can do that will prevent further cracking....really. Anything you do....meaning put on it.... will be strictly short term....and much of what you find will actually make it nicer in the short term and worse not far down the road.

the problem is that they are either rigid vinyl....a thermoplastic that loses its plasticizers with age and there is no fixing it.....or ABS...more brittle, newer and tougher....but since its actually a rigid, high impact plastic...they mold it thinner to have flexibility. Its a thermoplastic...so it cannot be fixed once it degrades to the point where its shrinking enough to split.

I know exactly how dashes are made. They are a foam insert cast around the metal spar or dash panel...and then the outer shell is thermo-vacuum formed over it. Alternately depending on foam type...they vacuum form the shell...put it and the metal spar on a jig...and then pump it full of foam. I have quite a bit of vacuum forming experience.

There are a few companies in the US....that if you wanted to have a new covering thermo-vacuum formed for your dash....they will do it for you. Typical costs for a complex dash like ours....probably about $5,000+. No kidding.

This is because they will use one of those two methods....kind of "forensically".

1. In the first method... they will have to fill your dash cracks...then make an outer mold of the whole dash. Then they will have to reproduce the grain on that mold where the cracks were....lots of hand work. Then they have to build a jig to hold the dash in reference to your existing dash.

Then they have to strip the existing cover from your dash. In reality....they do not strip the plastic off. They sand it all down...so its maybe .001"-.002" thick with no texture....working carefully to preserve geometry....and fill any cracks with foam or something stiffer...so they can be sanded smooth with no high spots.[b] (remember this process....we will come back to it)[/b]

Then they have what looks like a simple rectangular angle iron jig...about 10" wider and 10" longer than your dash....two of them actually. They have pneumatic clamps running on each side.

They put your dash on a jig to hold it still on the platen. They put a hot-melt spray adhesive on it.
The platen slides in and out of what is technically an oven...but its a simple series of industrial radiant heat lamps on a rack above it. They warm up the dash a little to melt the adhesive...roll it back out....then the first angle iron jig...is holding ...usually....a sheet of ABS or rigid vinyl plastic....about 10-12" wider in any direction than your dash. It rolls in under the heat lamps ....and they heat for about a minuet until its just starting to sag. They push a foot pedal or button....and your dash rolls back in right under this sheet...and the air cylinders above....push down....and drape that down on top of your dash shape. The mold goes over that.

A second later....the other angle iron jig is rolled in right on top of that stack. It has a rubber (usually EDPM or Neoprene) blanket with a vacuum line. A push of a button and the whole mass is clamped together and the air is sucked out....fully wrapping the entire dash with the hot sheet of plastic. Roll it out....cool it down....done. Just need to trim it around the edges and cut out any holes.

The object of the outer mold is to impart the texture....or....they can get ...if thy can find one or have it made....a sheet of textures plastic for method #1 or #2 below

2. The other method...is used on simpler dashes and panels....instead of using your whole dash for the form they make the outer mold....then pour an inner mold. These molds are usually a combination of plaster and high temp silicone casting or even urethane. The inner mold is usually plaster and is drilled from vacuum holes from the back.

In this method they essentially vacuum form just a shell. The dash itself is sanded down to super thin and even perfectly smooth....like the first one....then sprayed either with a contact cement if teh shell is simple enough...or they use the hot melt and use the vacuum form unit to apply the shell.

If you ar willing to pay....whatever it costs....you can get a brand new dash. Usually you find adds for these companies in Hemmings Motor News.

Ever wonder where someone gets a new dash for something like a "Kord" sport coupe...when they only built a few hundred? Wink

I have a friend in Canada that has a handful of Kords....they are Concors condition. Maybe a half million dollars wrapped up in them or more. Money is no object...and these are built by hand.

Back to the method:

So...in the method I have been working on.....

1.remove your dash. Its not that hard. Take everything off of it.

2. Takes some small samples and lots of very good macro pictures so you have a handle on the texture.

3. Mount it from the backside...solidly on a table where you can get all the way around it to work.

4. Using a profile gauge...that thing with all the needles that you press against shapes.....to take a couple of lip of the dash right above the instruments...in teh corner where the lip turns down...so diagonally inward from the side defroster vents. Those will be the only difficult spots to match.

5. You need flexible sanding blocks and probably an oscillating tool and maybe a small detail palm sander. Spend a couple of days....sanding every millimetre of it carefully....down until ther i no teture...its mooth...and paper thin. Do not worry about filling anything yet.

6. I am working on what to fill it with. It must be something that WILL NOT shrink with age or recess. You do not want low spots. But it needs to be flexible.
It will probably be a urethane or...it might even be a plastisol...but you have to get that to 250 to cure. It cannot be a silicone. There are even some foams that will work well.

It has to be something that paint will stick to.

7. Then you prep the whole surface with a solvent....three times.

8. Then we will be spraying the whole dash...with what is actually a flexible, thinned , paintable......smooth.....truck bed coating. You put on one THIN homogeneous layer to get a film. Let it dry and inspect it.

So where do you get a texture?

Well.....go to a high end model railroad shop...and look in their "rail ballast" section Wink ....they have bags and cans of "scale" track ballast....ranging from Z-scale (locomotives about 2" long with 1/4" tracks)...to O-scale and larger.

These ballast...are actually real rock....in many types...granites, shales, clays. They are precision crushed, ground and sieved to be all the same size and shape. They are cheap.

9. So ....you spray on layer # two...again...thin. It take about 45 minutes to cure....so you have time to work. Let it get slightly tacky.

10. You sift the ballast rocks all over the entire surface...double layer....then lightly pack them to make sure they are down in the plastic layer with a small roller. Let it dry...dust it off...save the rocks that dust off.

Look for thin areas with overly large spaces between the rocks. You may need to spray little here or there and dust rocks onto it.....or do another all over layer of spray and dust it again.

When it looks evenly spaced.....you spray one ..maybe two...complete layers over the whole dash. It fills in some of the spaces between the rocks and softens all of the edges.....you now have pebble texture.

The final layer after its dried for a couple of days.....if you do not like the color......is a sprayed on layer of one of the plasti-kote or duplicolor...vinyl dash spray paints...which are superb.

This can look like new.

Are you up for this process?

Ray
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ClassicCamper
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 02, 2020 6:13 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

After all the work I'm putting into this car... my answer is 'yes' Ray, I am going to attempt said method when this car is back together.

I'm finally at home again and put some sweat into the car tonight. The part I am actually dreading the most.... The A/C.

So... after consulting with some A/C pros and doing the math, the stock (if you want to call it that... more like the dealer-installed DPD) condensers are too small to sufficiently cool the inside of the T4 Variant. I can't validate that for a sedan, but for a Variant that is a big 'yes'. Plus, the DPD fan that pulls the heat away from the condenser doesn't cover enough surface area to sufficiently carry away the heat from the already-tiny condenser. Maybe in the freon days it provided a little bit more cooling, but not much. These were never ice-cold systems. Perhaps the A/C was nice to use on a cool, muggy evening. But, that's about it.

However, this system I'm putting in WILL be cold. I'm using a screw-type compressor and removed the old HP robbing piston type compressor. So, I'm excited about that.

Here is where the condenser used to sit:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Right inside the spare tire well. I took the condenser apart so you can see what the correct sized one looks like and the fan set-up:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I should have compared it to the old condenser with the little fan, but I tossed it.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Here is the front of the unit with a slit to allow air to enter and efficiently blow over the top of the condenser and carry away the heat. Also, you can see that the condenser is actually slanted up toward the back of the car in order to maximize air flow.

Prior to opening up the hole, the unit didn't fit; it was too big:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


After some sheet metal cutting and manipulating, I got the condenser to fit in the way I want it, allowing all the fins to be exposed to the bottom of the car.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Underneath the car, you can see how one half of the scoop sits in the trunk:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


So, that is part one of the A/C system. I'll be mounting a sheet metal frame around the bottom of the condenser to make it mount nicely and give it a finished look.

On the side of the spare tire well, I had to remove a small portion to allow room for the refrigerant hoses to pass nicely through without rubbing against any metal. I'll fabricate a removable access panel to finish it off and still allow access to the fittings in the event the o-rings ever need replacement.

The receiver/dryer is going to be mounted under the passenger side wheel, I'll post some pictures when that is up.

The evaporator is actually a DPD unit that I gutted and replaced with two squirrel-cage fans, new expansion valve, wiring and switches. Fortunately, the DPD evaporator size is big enough to get cool air into the car.

The only drawback with the DPD under-dash evaps, is just that... they are under dash. It takes a lot of work to get the cool air up near your face, but the double squirrel cage blower should handle that. Plus, I have vents with extended scoops on them which allow you to point the air more 'up' than the old units.

It's been a while since I posted, so I thought I'd give you an update.
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Hawker
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 12, 2020 12:35 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

This question is unrelated to your a/c, but you may know the answer since you have done so much interior work recently.

Do you know what that blue/grey, petrol soluble glue is that’s used to attach the carpets in our cars? I have come across it in another car in my collection where it was used. It’s great stuff. Still sticking after several decades, and easily removed, but what is it? Anyone know?

BR,

Rob
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 04, 2020 9:06 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

I figured I would drop in and say hello to the group. It’s been a while since I’ve posted and worked on my 412.

Last night I went through the entire gas heater and made sure there were no leaks, cleaned the glow plug and put in a new fuel filter. The BN4 heater is one of my favorite items on the car. I can officially state that I’m pretty knowledgable about fixing and troubleshooting them. That said, I’m more than happy to help anyone who may need help with theirs.

I encourage everyone who lives in a cool climate to bring their heater back to life. It’s worth it and rewarding. A word of caution though - Since they do run off your engine fuel, they can be dangerous if you don’t replace all those hoses and check for leaks. Its not hard to do... just ask questions if you are unsure.

I’ve gathered so much knowledge on how these work and many times almost gave up trying to fix mine. I am glad I kept at it, it paid off greatly - nothing beats hearing the rumble of that BN4 while driving on a cold night! For that, I thank Ray Greenwood.

Speaking of climate control, I have spent a whole bunch of time trying to install an air conditoning system on my T4. Here is what I did tonight:




Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Running the hoses under the car is a bear of a job - especially around the steering and the fuel tank area.

This is going to take me a while to do, because there are a lot of rubbing spots and the last thing I want is a leak due to rubbing on a sharp edge or another hose.

I plan on running this off an auxiliary battery. Thanks for reading folks, and if you have any questions about the heat or A/C system on these cars, dont hesitate to reach out.
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2020 6:17 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

A lot of work finally completed on the 412 over the last few days. Improved health and some spare time allowed me to get some things done and I wanted to report how it all worked out:

1) The heated seats were hooked up to an aux battery that I placed under the passenger seat.

2) The A/C compressor clutch and condenser fan are hooked up to the aux battery.


I connected the aux battery to the charging system with a Bosch relay and hooked it up like so:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I drove the car through all it's test trials this evening and everything works exceptionally well. I'm really pleased with my progress. The final step that needs to be done is to have the A/C system charged.

I'm in no rush for that since it's currently 39 degrees out here.


Next bit of news to report: the timer for the gas heater works like a charm, what a great invention! I set it for 7:00 PM and made it a point to leave my friend's house at precisely that time, to my delight I walked outside and heard the heater 'tick-ticking' away and the interior of the cabin was toasty warm.

I'm really pleased how this car is coming together, especially having the 'luxury options' put back in place. (A/C and gas heat). I may have a spare heater timer / clock if anyone is looking for one. Just PM me.

Now, I'm in the final stretch with this car -- putting the rest of the interior in as well as adding the aluminum trim around the mid-section of the car.

Thanks for everyone's support over the past couple of years. I'm happy that I didn't give up (I almost threw in the towel several times!!). It's a hard car to work on, and it's also difficult to access many areas, especially while wiring.

The payoff so far is incredible every trip I take. It's a fun car to drive!
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2020 6:50 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

Great work, definitely an inspiration! I wish I had the skills and experience some of you guys have on here. I guess I'll keep trying. Luckily the net is here to bring us all together to share. Oh, and I used to have a B5 V6 VW Passat, now THAT was an annoying car to work on. About half the front end had to come off just to change the alternator. I can't fathom how they managed to shoehorn a W8 and 4 Motion into one of those things, later. After working on that and other modern cars for years, I now find working on a Type 4 downright therapeutic!
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 14, 2020 4:07 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

Quote:
Great work, definitely an inspiration! I wish I had the skills and experience some of you guys have on here. I'll guess I'll keep trying. Luckily the net is here to bring us all together to share. Oh, and I used to have a B5 V6 VW Passat, now THAT was an annoying car to work on. About half the front end had to come off just to change the alternator. I can't fathom how they managed to shoehorn a W8 and 4 Motion into one of those things, later. After working on that and other modern cars for years, I now find working on a Type 4 downright therapeutic!


Hey Uber, thanks for the comments. As far as skills go, I had zero knowledge of how a Type 4 works. Everything that I rebuilt on the car, I learned here and I'm more than happy to help you out if I can. The gas heater, D-Jet fuel injection, suspension, etc, etc, was all completely foreign to me.

Now that I have disassembled pretty much everything in the car, I feel confident enough to help others and take on more ambitious projects. In my opinion, one of the most difficult things to master on this car was the wiring. I could not find any exact wiring diagram to match my 1973 USA T4 Variant.

I hand drew a complete wiring diagram for each fused circuit. Each fuse has its own 8.5x11 piece of paper outlining where everything goes. If anyone ever needs help with wiring, I'm your guy to help troubleshoot. Of course, every model has its own variation, the basic principles are relatively the same.
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ClassicCamper
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Joined: December 17, 2002
Posts: 679

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2020 2:20 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

Had a great ride in my 412. Sometimes all of the cut hands, sore bones and stiff muscles are truly worth it. Such a pleasure to drive:


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1973 412 Wagon
1976 Westy
1978 SB Vert
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raygreenwood
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Joined: November 24, 2008
Posts: 21507
Location: Oklahoma City
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 15, 2020 6:18 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

That is a REALLY FINE piece of work! Great car!

Yes...they are a joy to drive aren't they?

Its really hard to explain to people just how well these cars drive...when the suspension is either brand new factory...or fully redone upgraded.... as compared to ANY of the other ACVW's. Only the type 3 comes close.

Having done MANY very long drives in 411 and 412...I can tell you that extended highway driving at good highway speeds (65 mph) is where these cars really excel.

Ray
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NurseryWalt
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Joined: January 29, 2016
Posts: 143
Location: Abbotsford, BC
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2020 9:42 am    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

Looks terrific. Keep up the good work!

Walter
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'66 Bug with collector plate and '73 412 project
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Pepperbilly
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Joined: April 08, 2017
Posts: 977
Location: Seattle, Wa
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 16, 2020 8:53 pm    Post subject: Re: My 412 these days.. Reply with quote

Really a nice looking project! That is a very good color for a wagon... have always liked it.
So I’m at the point of a massive decision. Do I remove my windows to paint? The availability of the seals is holding me up. How did you do it? Where did you get your seals? I am at the moment wanting for a response from the Kever people in Holland...nothing yet. I am a perfectionist and want to remove the windows and do it right.
Bill
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