My Crazy 1974 Super Beetle Autocross Build

[Walking Contradiction]

Hello again, everyone!

Some of you may know me from my previous thread, A Total Noob's 1974 Super Beetle Restoration http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=566713. I have owned my 1974 Super Beetle since July of 2013, and have had quite a tumultuous journey with it so far. The original intention was to restore this car basically to factory stock. However, I have decided to retire that thread and create this new one, because I am taking an entirely different direction with the build (plus the old one was getting huuuuge). Last October I entered my Beetle in an Autocross put on by my local chapter of the SCCA. It was the most fun I'd ever had with the car. After that, I decided I had to turn my Beetle into a race car.

The Car:

This is the foundation of the build, my 1974 Super Beetle (nicknamed Butterfinger, don't ask), with 95,xxx documented miles (the odometer was broken when I got it, so who knows). It's essentially stock, but not an original or clean car. Its engine has been replaced, its interior was poorly restored by a previous owner, and it has been resprayed so many times that I have yet to determine its original color. It has rust that needs to be addressed behind the crescent vents, at the back of the driver's heater channel, the floor pan, and the driver's door bottom. It has a problem with idling that has proven unfixable thus far. Essentially, every component of this vehicle is going to have to be inspected, cleaned up, or replaced.

The Goal:

My goal with this project is to build an extremely high performance Super Beetle that is competitive in SCCA Autocross while retaining most of the comfort, reliability, and daily drive-ability of a stock one. I want to be able to terrorize Porsche 911s on weekends, and continue driving it to work and school every day from spring to the first snow of the year. The class I will be running in is for the time being is called Street Touring Sport. As the list of modifications grows, I would like to end up in Street Modified. The car will retain a full interior, a radio, and functioning heat. No major modifications to the chassis or body should be necessary. I am not going to cut up another Beetle. This thread will document the build process, and maybe the results of my races if people would like to see that.

Planned Work:

Front Suspension:

- Topline MAXX lowering struts w/80lb yellow springs (purchased)
- Topline 7/8'' sway bar (purchased)
- Complete front suspension and steering rebuild (most parts purchased)

Rear Suspension:

- Lower rear suspension
- Rebuild stub axles
- Replace CV joints (may upgrade to stronger axles)
- Topline Rear Sway Bar (dependent on how car handles after other modifications)

Brakes:

- Topline rear disc brake conversion w/parking brake (car already has front discs)
- Replace all metal hard lines besides main line through tunnel
- Stainless steel braided brake hoses
- New front wheel bearings
- New front brake rotors
- New master cylinder and reservoir
- High performance pads (researching options)
- Rebuild parking brake lever mechanism

Engine:

-Type 4 engine conversion (Undecided displacement or configuration; aiming for 150+ hp. Block purchased)
- Weber IDFs (44s or 48s)
- Raby DTM cooling shroud (undecided, I don't like that it has no provision for a thermostat)
- Tangerine Racing exhaust

Transmission:

- Rebuilt transmission (researching options and optimal gearing)
- Quaife LSD

Body:

- Repair rust
- Paint floor pans and undercarriage
- Weld up crescent vent holes
- Replace all window seals and trim
- Install pop out rear windows
- Floor pan bracing
- "Kafer Brace" (transmission and rear suspension brace)
- New rubber body seals and trim all around
- Clean up chrome on bumpers and install original rubber strip and end caps
- New shock absorbing bumper brackets for rear bumper
- H4 halogen headlights
- Hella 500 driving lights
- Fast Fab strut tower brace
- New running boards
- Kamei-style front spoiler
- Rear over window spoiler
- Replace windshield (has crack)
- Quality paint job in VW Brilliant Orange (or another shade of orange)
- Paint hood matte black

Interior:

- New tar boards
- TMI carpet kit
- Glass Action 911-style dashboard
- Corbeau Sport Seats
- New door panels
- VDO tachometer, oil pressure, oil temp, cylinder head temp, and voltmeter gauges
- New sun visors
- Replace rear seat padding with foam and install new seat cover
- Topline power pedal
- Grant suede racing wheel
- New seat belts
- Install new radio w/ 2 speakers in front foot wells
- Fire extinguisher w/bracket

Other:

- Black EMPI 8 spoke wheels w/ Goodyear Eagle Sport Tires (for street use and temporary autocross setup)
- Dedicated set of wheels w/ race compound tires for autocross use (undecided)
- Replace wiring front and rear wiring harnesses


Here's how the car should look when finished (minus the black hood and driving lights)

I'll begin work on it after I return from a vacation in early January. I hope everyone enjoys this build!

-Sam
_________________
Samuel Hartford

1974 Super Beetle

Board Member of the Greater Toledo Volkswagen Club

Member of Northwest Ohio Region SCCA

[Tim Donahoe]

Never give up, Sam.

Looks like you're going to have some fun.

Merry Christmas,

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[[email protected]]

Sounds like a great project! I'm envious! I would look into what modifications would change your racing classifications. Modifying suspension/brakes will most likely elevate you in to a faster class where you may, or may no longer be competitive. The standard 4 x 130 brake kits work well, but a late Super shares some suspension characteristics of Porsche 924/944's. You may be able to get some stock Porsche braking setups that could be used with little, or no modification. This would also open up some wheel options to be used with larger/wider tires.

[Walking Contradiction]

[Walking Contradiction]

[ROCKOROD71]

Real interested to follow along on this one too. Type 4 conversion interests me very much, as I own a type 4 powered bus, and in my dreams I go Subaru on that and shove the type 4 in my bug someday so both cars can keep up in today's traffic!
Good on you for keepin it alive Sam!
Suspension upgrades I am guessing would be crucial. The death foam rot behind the crecents: I have yet to have this start on my 71, and it lives outside (knock on wood) I feel like every time I see a bad case of it on the Samba its a 73, 74, 75....maybe they changed something in those years? Might consider "shaving" the crecents with donor metal welded in if goin all in on that. Otherwise the missing metal should lower the weight of the car! On that note there are lots of do-dads you could lose to drop the weight, or swap, like carbon fiber hoods/trunks, fiberglass fenders....
Anywho...Good luck, I look forward to reading all about it!
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1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI

[Walking Contradiction]

The Type 4 swap is going to be extremely exciting for me too. I was drawn to it due to its reputation for reliable power. Sure, you can get 150 hp out of a Type 1, but then it becomes a very high maintenance, short lived motor. For a Type 4 150 hp is nothing; they can go higher without problems. However, since this is my first longblock build, I'm going to keep it pretty simple, so the is less of a chance for me to screw it up.

Do you know of a source for carbon fiber VW parts? I feel like a carbon fiber hood and deck lid would look pretty boss. Maybe they could make me a front spoiler while they're at it . I'm not paying $800 for a plastic Kamei one.

-Sam
_________________
Samuel Hartford

1974 Super Beetle

Board Member of the Greater Toledo Volkswagen Club

Member of Northwest Ohio Region SCCA

[slalombuggy]

You're going to want to put some bigger torsion bars in the back. Even in my buggy I run 27mm bars because it would sit down on the back so hard on big fast corners. The front inside wheel would come up 6 inches and the front would start to wash out with only one tire on the ground. And also if you are going with a T4 motor you need some more spring for the heavier motor.

If you don't want to spend $800 for a Kamei spoiler, you're not going to like the cost of carbon fiber parts. There is one company I saw making some CF parts for drag racers, but a deck lid was $400 and fenders were I think about $5-600 a pair.

As for engines. 150hp is easy with a T1 and you can make it live a good life. Just buy good parts.

brad

[ROCKOROD71]

I remember this thread:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=310338&highlight=carbon+fiber
and another from a guy maybe in Turkey or somewhere like that who was starting up a CF parts co. That thread I linked to has a lot of the German Look guys chiming in, like Joel from Australia. they would be the ones to ask about all that stuff! I am a boring stock guy!
_________________
1971 STD BEETLE- DD-1st car, 1st love. keepin' it stock! 1600DP, Solex 34-3 Mexi Bosch SVDA Dist NOW w/POINTS
1977 WESTY "KrustyKamper" 2L FI

[Walking Contradiction]

[ps2375]

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=7835388&highlight=#7835388

Neither of the cars in this thread are Supers, but there is still some good stuff. My car is the blue car, and I doubt I have 150hp, but I have plenty for my current tires. To get a "very" competitive auto-x car, you'll have to go a bit further from the comfortable daily to closer to the "not so comfortable" beasty car. That can be especially true of a car with the humble origins as the Beatle has.

I doubt you'll need a full 150hp motor to make your car quick, but you will need some serious seat time to drive it quick, and that is mostly a "you have it or you don't" deal. Even if you "don't have it", it is still a blast to compete, so don't let that stop you. I recommend you go slow with the mods and really learn to drive the car and then make the changes you need to stay within a certain class as long as possible, then when you are competitive there, go to the next class.

The biggest things are tires and driver. That has been my experience, and that is with R comp classes and non R comp classes, you want the best tire the rules will allow. (That is my car's biggest handicap right now.)

Have fun, and don't fall too far down the hole...

[Walking Contradiction]

That's what I plan on doing. Easy stuff first, big stuff later. (I don't have the finances do do all this stuff at once anyway, lol) The motor will probably be the very last thing to get touched on this car. All the other mods I've planned can be carried out without changing classes. I am also ok with sacrificing some comfort for performance, just not to the point where there's no interior, no radio, no sound insulation of any kind, etc.

Driver skill is most certainly more important than any amount of car modifications when it comes to autocross. I've only done one event so far, so I have a long way to go. I wasn't hopeless out there though. I feel like with enough practice I could be a competent driver. The people I'm competing against are no experts either. Even if I don't win, it's still a massive amount of fun, and everyone gets a kick out of seeing such a slow car tearing it up.

-Sam
_________________
Samuel Hartford

1974 Super Beetle

Board Member of the Greater Toledo Volkswagen Club

Member of Northwest Ohio Region SCCA

[DesertBob]

Looking forward to following this thread. Sound like the same direction I have been heading. Mine: 1974 Super Beetle, 1776 with Dual 36 DRLA Dells, Top Line MaxStrut (red spring), front sway bar, rear sway bar and strut brace. Running Excel Struts and Shocks. They are OK but I think I will be going Bilstein or Koni soon. Running 4 wheel disc brakes with Porsche Turbo Twists (205/40x17 front and 225/45x17 rear). The chassis could handle more motor. Sticks hard in the turns with very little sway. Now that is on the back roads of Tennessee and not an Autocross track. Still pretty comfortable to drive.

_________________
All it takes is a little imagination, some mechanical ability, and neighbors who mind their own business

74 Super Beetle (German Look Project)
Full Flow 1776 with 36 Dells, 4 wheel drilled and slotted disc brakes, Porsche 7x17 Turbo Twists, Topline Maxx Struts, Camber kit, 7/8" Front Sway bar, Rear Sway bar, Urethane bushings all around.

[slalombuggy]

OK, just trying to share some of my 20 years experience racing my buggy in autocross.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COyOmisaV30

brad

[Walking Contradiction]

[ps2375]

The 200 tread-wear is now for all classes other than Street Prepared, Prepared and Modified.

For a wheel and tire combo, if you are going to have a dedicated set, I'd look at a 16" wheel, as you'll have a better selection of tire widths and profiles to pick from. And since they are for "racing", they don't need to be pretty, but finding a wheel you want with the 4X130 bolt pattern will be your other chore. I has contemplated a set of wheels from Diamond Racing Wheels, they ca do the bolt pattern, width and offset you specify for a reasonable amount. They are a steel wheel, but aren't too heavy and are reasonable cost. And they come in black or silver.

Your other choice is to change bolt pattern, the cost is just as bad since then you need to buy wheels for dd duty also.

[Walking Contradiction]

I am definitely going to get a dedicated set of wheels and tires at some point. You're right, there just aren't a whole lot of wheel choices for the stock bolt pattern. In my quick search I didn't see any 16'' wheels in 4x130 either. May I ask what wheels / bolt pattern / tires you are currently running?

-Sam
_________________
Samuel Hartford

1974 Super Beetle

Board Member of the Greater Toledo Volkswagen Club

Member of Northwest Ohio Region SCCA

[ps2375]

I am on a 4X130 15" 5 or 5.5" wheel. 205/65 rear tire and a 185/65 front. If I am ever able to go a dedicated wheel/tire, it'll be on at least a 16" wheel with at least a 6" wide front and what ever I can fit in the rear. I'll prolly do what I mentioned and get a set of steel wheels and keep the 4X130 bolt pattern. I have Ghia disks upfront and type2 or 3 drums(they were installed long before I took possession of the car) in the rear. Plenty of brakes for anything this car will ever do.

[Maddel]

A bit off topic:
Over here in Germany Autocross is called "Slalom" widely while "Autocross" means this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mu-DM1qTmLw
(all German - sorry, but fast-forward to about 2:30 to skip the interview at the beginning)

Back to the topic:
The other day I posted a few videos here: Heinz and Robert Aichlseder - Slalom racing
Well... The Aichlseder Bugs are pure race cars, not street legal and quite a bit beyond the means of the average Beetle owner.
But may be you like "the show" anyway.

Concerning the Kamei Spoiler:
Site of a German vendor: http://www.werk34.de/index.php/language/en/cat/c416_Beetle-Bug.html
They state ist's original Kamei here: http://www.werk34.de/advanced_search_result.php/la...ords/kamei
It's about 130$ but excl. shipping. Also I have no idea if you have to pay customs.
For details on worldwide shipping contact [email protected]

I like your project and really looking forward to the progress!

[Walking Contradiction]

Wow, that is some crazy stuff. I bet it's a ton of fun. Those look like a cross between a rally car and a sand rail.

Thank you very much for that link. As long as the cost of shipping from Germany isn't too crazy that should save me quite a bit of money. I don't think the part is expensive enough to have any customs duties. You have no idea how hard it is to find a Kamei spoiler in the United States.

-Sam
_________________
Samuel Hartford

1974 Super Beetle

Board Member of the Greater Toledo Volkswagen Club

Member of Northwest Ohio Region SCCA