COOLED brand Engine fanshrouds and engine tin.

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Build thread here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=529379

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[esde]

I love it. Considering how much time it took to bead blast my last shroud, weld up 40 years of extra holes drilled, add the ring, and widen the cooler doghouse, I would've been about even if I had bought yours. Plus it would be new. Nice work!

[nextgen]

I am happy GTV Brought up the 36 hp fanhousing.

My Cali Style Upright Type IV Conversion all use the 36 hp with Doghouse. From experience in a T-4 Upright Conversion fanhousing does not need to be converted for a T-4 cooler, but hey if you have it and the ring. What could be better. Especially for an early bus that used a T-1

The main reason for the 36 on the T-4 is to be able to use dual carbs. Most guys slice off the sides of a stock fanhousing to make the carbs fit.
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[esde]

[mark tucker]

there could be many things done to improve the 36 style shroud,but he didnt build that one. so it is what it is. and his look great,and I hope all his work pays him back.and he produces more outdated stuff. I personaly do not like the look of the bug boxey shrouds on anything...or any bug.but thats me,and possiably only me. I have 3 new shrouds hear ....there all 36 style. but I do realize many people want his type of shroud.so this is great for them to be able to buy a new unit instead of finding a dingeyrusty old one to rework. the price point is at the place where it seprates the buyers from the reworkers. I used to do tool&die work (as in making the tooling&dies to do this kinds of stuff and injection molding dies too,so I know it isant cheep and you have to have all your duckes in a row when building them for the finished product to come out right and good looking..

[jeff68]

WOW! Very nice work! I'm surprised but happy someone actually went through with designing and fabricating a shroud like this. I like the thing option shrouds. I have two original thing shrouds with one being used on the engine in my car. I also like that you offer just the "back side" section so that you can modify an existing shroud to use the type IV oil cooler. I wanted to use a type IV cooler on my engine but didn't want to cut up an original thing shroud, now there is an option.

Since there are so many who want the 36hp shrouds maybe you could just sell the internal vanes with a paper position template so that you could weld in the vanes to aftermarket 36hp fan shrouds. Or your company could even offer modified aftermarket 36hp fan shrouds that include your companies vanes and venture ring. Might be cheaper than designing and manufacturing a complete 36 shroud body. Just a thought

Still, awesome job and thanks for doing it. I may buy one of your shrouds, replace the thing shroud on my engine, and use a type IV cooler as well.

[KROC]

Totally awesome Ken! Glad to see them finished!

[nextgen]

Mark I agree, the tooling and setup charges are the big hit, up front. You have do your homework and figure out what to sell it for to finally break even.

As for the 36 HP, he most likely will not make any at this point buy he knows there is a market and maybe, just maybe he may figure in a slicing of the sides for sale as a future option.
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The TYPE IV UPRIGHT CONVERSION MANUAL
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[jason]

I like either version myself. I have a Thing and a 36er. He went down the middle in my opinion. The stock guys can buy them and the performance guys too.

[Dan Ruddock]

No 36hp shroud, no good for me, must have.

I just used a OG 36hp shroud (cheap) and modded it to use the bigger fan with a dummy cooler inside it with a functional external cooler. Now have plenty of room for my IDA's.

Dan

[srfndoc]

[AlteWagen]

This is GREAT!!! Since beat down 181 shrouds are pulling $300 I think the price point is right on. I agree the 36hp option would sell more though as performance builders need all the room they can get. Short IDA manifolds definitely wont fit.

Since you are offering parts to retrofit a stock shroud you should just sell the back panel with the veins, ring and ducting so the DIYr can cut the front of a 36/40 hp shroud and make their own. I used a stock FI shroud with venturi ring and peanut slot and a 62 stale air 40hp shroud and made a great working one out of the two. I think $150 for the guts would help pay down the up front investment.

Only one thing concerns me, how will the cooler work without additional cooling air being routed to it? In my puma shroud the ring dropped both CHT and OT but in the hybrid the CHT were 30* cooler but OT went up 10* compared to a typical DH 36hp shroud with a standard cooler (equal CHT and higher OT compared to the puma shroud). Maybe the T4 cooler will bring temps back to stock level but I think a small positive scoop will direct more cooling air without robbing too much to cause the 1-2 side to run slightly warmer than the 3-4 side.

As mentioned earlier offering working flaps with thermostat (even the late mexican one that fails closed) would bring in more funds.

For the guys complaining about the lack of coil mounts you should just offer well nuts which will also reduce the chance of cracking the outer skin and vibration

http://www.mcmaster.com/#well-nut-inserts/=10a7b9f




THANKS FOR THE CONTRIBUTION!!!!
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[Frank Bassman]

Those well nuts are the perfect solution, provided there aren't nuts welded in from the inside, that would be the best solution. Where I work we use "Rib Nuts" to add thread to sheet meta. (Elevator manufacturing company, I design components.)

The indentation for the oil bath cleaners not being there would also hinder me from buying it... if it is going to look stock it, and the point is to have something that looks original, it should function like the original, and It should have the indent. I think you'll have even more people that buy it because now the ones that want their motor to look 100% original can run the OG filters... they do look cool even if they are clunky. Every time I open the decklid and someone that hasn't seen the motor sees it always asks me what the "big black thing on top" is. Furthermore, I would venture to say that most people getting flaps (which this shroud is made to be compatible with) probably run OG filters...if they were considering this shroud for a restoration that idea went bye-bye. Truly it is a difference of taste situation at this point but I digress.

I actually like the indent personally, even if running dual carbs, it gives the motor more of a "motor" look, I mean there are motors out there that look like fine china... when they are motors. I don't know, I guess I have a short somewhere in my brain.

I personally love the "horn-less" shroud because it would mean if ever I must take the manifold off, it doesn't have to be lifted. (I don't run heat so it doesn't matter.) This would be a HUGE plus in my book. Plus, don't hate me everyone, but I've never liked the 36 hp shroud look... I guess I've seen it too much... and my weird taste is probably due to me being dropped during several different instances of my infancy... probably the reason I'm into old VW's too.

OP, all the stuff we are saying, don't take it the wrong way! Feedback is the only thing you have to gauge how your product is received! I wish you luck, you're doing something great.

-Frank

[mcmscott]

The way VW corperate is these days, I would be hesitaint to copy a genuine shroud to the "tee" they like to sue for copyright any time they get the chance. Not having the dent and nutserts could very well be the difference. If I didn't already have a modified shroud I would buy one of these. Who knows, maybe after the new year starts I will any way.
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[Trevor P]

[Glenn]

[bugguy1967]

I believe saw2 is dead-on about #4 and #7 veins. It appears you've copied the veins from the standard heater box shroud. In that shroud, #4 and #7 are important to direct air through the snorkels. With a dead-end, like you've done, unwanted turbulence will occur near the entrances that has been discovered to hurt cooling capability.

On the Type 4 cooler provision, air pressure will drop before it passes through the cooler. You opted to use the flush peanut slot, which favors a larger percentage of air going to the heads instead of the cooler than the protruding scoop. F.I. shrouds came with both styles, depending on year. I own both styles. The ones with the flush slot were to direct more cooling air to the hotter running F.I. heads. The oil cooling wasn't as big of a problem, I guess... Oh, another thing; the velocity ring possibly only has a cooling advantage in the lower RPM range. Up high, it's likely the same or close to standard.

Even if you did use the protruding slot, I doubt that would provide enough air pressure to adequately take advantage of the T4 cooler. The reason T4 cooler mods work reasonably well is because of the increased cooling area. Air passes through slower, but the cooler is wider, so it probably does the same, or close to the same work. It would've been awesome if you would've used some probes to monitor airflow at various points of the shroud in a running engine at different speeds. Then you'd know what to modify to pressurize that big cooler duct.

Aesthetically, the shroud looks nice, but I see no functional 'improvements' over German O.E.s.
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[neil68]

[mudbucket]