Syncro driveshaft alignment tool

[davevickery]

There are a lot of threads on syncro vibrations but none specifically on the alignment tool. I did find a couple versions made by some of the veteran syncro guys but they involved machining or expensive laser levels (which I couldn't find at HomeDepot or Lowes anyway).

In my search I came across the GoWesty rental one and saw posts by several other poeple just sayinbg they made their own. But I could not visualize how to make one. I spend quite a while reading through all the threads trying to see specifically what people were using to make one. Eventually I found stuff outside of samba on how to make a very simple and inexpensive one. Maybe this will help someone else. I really don't like the idea of just loosening bolts and hoping it will align itself.

Here is gowesty's very nice tool.

Link


Here is a simpler DIY version.

Link


Here is another even simpler and nicer one. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/43993-differential-laser-alignment-tool/

I copied the simplest one. I bought a small laser light pen from Petsmart for a few bucks, one of the big magnets from Harbor freight which cost $5 and found a 1/2" socket that the pen light just fits into tightly. The socket is bolted onto the magnet and the pen is jammed into the socket. It doesn't matter that isn't isn't exact because you can rotate the driveshaft and move the pen light around a little bit until the beam of light stays in one place.

This isn't as nice obviously as some of the ones others have made but I could not find a laser level that would point the beam out horizontally. Hopefully this is all I will need. Mine was absolutely smooth before the engine conversion, so I believe it will just be a side to side adjustment on the transaxle.

And here are several of the posts discussing alignment: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search..._chars=200

[insyncro]

You can also use a 10cent piece of string and a household tape measure.

Having units that bolt to the flanges will give the most accuracy IMO.

[davevickery]

I don't see how you can really align it accurately with a piece of string. I think a laser is the only accurate way to do this. I don't see a problem yet with a cheap laser. So long as you can zero it out by rotating the output shaft so the beam stays in one spot, that tells you it is true. If it traces out a circle then the laser needs to be adjusted until it is just a point or very small circle at least. Then adjust the diff and trans so the spot moves to where you want it. A quality laser level that you don't have to zero would be nice, like GoWesty's unit, but I'm hoping this will work just as well. I'll give it a try when it warms up.

[davevickery]

Yah, this thing is awesome. It was very easy to zero out so no need for expensive equipment that I can see. Takes all the guesswork out of it. Here is a quick look at my results. I'm pretty close in back and off about 2 inches in the front.

I'll hang a ruler when I make the adjustments but you can see how close it is and this still produces a vibration. I don't think I would find that without a laser. It is only going to take a very small adjustment to move that beam of light over 2 inches.

Front diff ponted at transaxle.

Transaxle pointed at front diff.

[?Waldo?]

Interesting process. I have no intention of ever owning a syncro or performing a driveshaft alignment on one so to me it is all academic. One issue I see is that it is virtually guaranteed that the laser is not exactly perpendicular to the plane of the base of the magnet. Any misalignment in that regard could mask the potential of the flange itself not being perfectly perpendicular to the axis of its rotation. I believe the solution would be to dial in the laser so the dot does not move, mark the base to flange rotational orientation, rotate the base 180 degrees, dial the dot back in. The two dot locations should be in the same place. If not, then the flange itself is not perpendicular to its axis of rotation.

[seans67]

I have been pondering this very same thing as I near the completion of my swap. Thanks for posting.
_________________
Sean

'71 Squareback '71 Porsche 914 ‘80 Camper '87 Syncro Weekender 1.8T '87 Wolfsburg Weekender '97 Toyota Land Cruiser ‘03 Audi A6 Quattro 3.0 ‘04 Audi A4 Avant Quattro 1.8T ‘05 Audi A4 Quattro 3.0
‘06 Porsche Cayenne Turbo S

[insyncro]

Andrew is correct.
Having the tools connect to the flanges, using standardized positions gives the best accuracy.

In all honesty, once you are familiar with the process and the tools, than a tape measure is really all that is needed once you have your reference marks on the chassis.

[MsTaboo]

[ragnarhairybreeks]

I'm with Dave on this. I made a gizmo similar to his a few years ago. Difference was I turned a base on the lathe and stuck on a couple of magnets to hold base to flange. The base was turned to register on the flange.

I wasn't really happy with how the laser pointer was held in the base, I didn't like the adjustment method. So I made another model with a bracket attached to the base and this bracket held the pointer. The bracket had set screws to adjust the pointer.

In both cases I aligned the laser while the assembly was held on the lathe. I could swing the chuck and adjust the laser dot to make the smallest circle at the distance I would be measuring on the van. On the second model I had enough adjustability to reduce the angle of the cone that the light beam describes as the assembly is turned.

Alistair
_________________
'86 7 passenger syncro, converted to westy pop top, project still in progress
'82 westy, diesel converted to gas in '94, now gone...
https://shufti.blog/
Old address still works...
http://shufti.wordpress.com

[?Waldo?]

[insyncro]

Some feel you need a fancy laser machine to align suspension parts.
It has been shown here in a thread how to do it with basic tools...string, tape measure and a marking device like a pen or chalk.

Same principle applies.

Align a few Syncro drivelines with success, make a few measurements, note the commonalities and cut right to the chase the next time.

I have double checked my work with the GW tool as I own it.
My non tool and tape measurements are extremely close to what the tools will help you baseline.

I have my own alignment procedures, it has been covered in other threads.
I also now have made measurements with the original bushings, Powerflex Bushings and Burley's bushings.
I have also made and noted the differences in flange angles found with VW cradles, Small Car's systems, RMW's system and a few others.

I invite others to first know and note what parts they have, align and than measure from points noted in the VW literature as standard measuring points...than post them if you wish.
Quite a few variables here at play, so please know exactly what generation parts you have, condition and 2wd 🆚 Syncro....it makes a huge difference.

[61Scout]

Who cares how it gets done if the job is done right at the end of the day? It's a poor craftsman that blames his tools.

Good stuff, Dave.


-Kevin
_________________
1986 Westfalia Weekender Wolfsburg, RJE 2.3
1985 Tin Top, Subie 2.2 + 5MT
Floppy Mirrors no more: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=653018&highlight=
Remove the front spindle nut with ease: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=679567&highlight=
Remove the rear wheel bearing housing without messing with the big 46mm nut: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=679507&highlight=

-Nec Spe, Nec Metu

[Bassyaks]

You guys are looking at 1 angle, there are 360 degrees to look at.
You have side angles as well as head on angles.
Much of this was addressed in Drive shaft angles and the front diff.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6...highlight=

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
Steve

[davevickery]

[Escorial Syncro]

Hey Dave,
You did some good thinking on this. You've condensed other people's ideas into a pretty affordable, efficient setup. I hope the first test drive proves successful.
_________________
Joel Lane
1985 Vanagon converted to syncro, ALH TDI, Reimo Primus top with Westy interior
2002 Toyota Tundra 4x4
1974 Honda CL360 Scrambler (for sale!)

[Bassyaks]

Dave the dot could show up on center even though it is at an angle

point your laser on this smiley now move the laser 45 degrees but keep the dot on the smiley , your dot is centered but you have an angle.

The only way that is going to work is if you have 2 lasers intersecting each other.

[MsTaboo]

[Bassyaks]

He has no pivot points, he's coming off the solid flanges

[?Waldo?]

The magnet base is mounted on a flange that is on the end of a shaft that rotates. If the laser is not perpendicular to its base, it will describe a cone. The cone's center will be colinear with the centerline of the rotation of the flange the laser is stuck to. When the laser is moved on the flange until it only shows a dot, the dot is the apex of the cone. That apex is exactly colinear with the axis of rotation of the flange the laser is stuck to.

[ragnarhairybreeks]

Andrew described it well. The fact is that it is very unlikely you will be able to mount the pointer to the base exactly perp and centred. Even if you could it would be prone to bumping out of alignment.

Rotating the base will produce a dot describing a circular path on the reference plate attached to the other flange as described before. The diameter of that circle will be small if the laser pointer is perfectly centred and perp in the base, or if the apex of the described cone is lands on the distance between the pointer and the opposite flange.

And of course if you can measure the distance between the dot or the centre of the described circle and the flange centre , and you know the distance between the pointer and the opposite flange, you can calculate the flange angle.

Alistair
_________________
'86 7 passenger syncro, converted to westy pop top, project still in progress
'82 westy, diesel converted to gas in '94, now gone...
https://shufti.blog/
Old address still works...
http://shufti.wordpress.com