My 57 vert project

[jason]

I have had a 57 vert sitting around since the early 90's. I recently had to get rid of my 59 ghia and 59 bug. I need to get off my rear and get back into a VW. I work slowly and will be documenting it here. My order of business is to get it running and make sure everything fits, tear it apart and paint it. I am doing the rust replacement and rough bodywork while I finish the engine and until it is ready to come back apart.


Here is what I started with.

[jason]

Currently on a CB 2 inch needle bearing beam, spindles, brembo rotors, ATE wheel cylinders and Sway Away adjustable springplates I bought from Car Craft forever ago. Really thinking about a 4 inch beam. I made some thick wall tie rods and Meyle ends.
I used 944 rear hubs, forged and OG German type 3 4 lug drums in the rear.
I also used a 67 FAG master, ATE reservoir and copper/steel lines.

[56Cabrio]

I also need to get off my rear and get back to working on my 56 vert. I bought it in 2000.
I will be watching your thread. You in the SFV ?
Dave
_________________
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1956 Rag Top owned since 1988
1956 Convertible owned since 2000
1963 Hard Top

RIP Dad 4/20/1951 - 2/4/2023

[jason]

I cut the rails off in the 90's and that is why it was sitting. I bought a set of rails from J3 restorations and rocker plates from Gerson.

Rail cut off prior to removing spot welds and plate. My 57 has the wiring coming out here and goes in the trunk in a different than normal area.
These rails have the correct reinforcement and pieces by the jack support.

[jason]

I was in Sylmar until last year.

[jason]

My original wiring conduit. It is almost a perfect match to a preheater hose. Bought two and taped with cloth electrical tape for correct length. Couldn't find a single length anywhere.

[jason]

I made some brackets at my friends shop with a plasma cam to brace and adjust.
I bought a reamer and put new door pins in the hinges. I made these to adjust the door gaps with the doors on and no welding anywhere. There are spacers that go between the striker area and the bracket. I can't find a picture of them. When I got the gaps good I installed the braces and used shim stock to fit them snug and then tightened.

[jason]

Here are some measurements I found here, Thesamba.
When the gaps were good I measured the spots and made sure they were correct.

[jason]

I started drilling spot welds, took forever. I drilled the rails off and then the plates. When they were off I had the inside of the rocker sand blasted. I then epoxy primed it and painted, both the rails, plates and rocker.

[jason]

I cut out the rusty spots and welded them in before sand blasting.

[jason]

If anyone is going to replace their rails I highly recommend a spot welder. I was grinding for weeks. I welded the plates on, grinded and then the rails. I guess you could weld them together first then on the body but I checked the fitment of each along the way. I made a measuring tool, I'll post some pics. I wanted the bolt holes correct and then checked so the rail wouldn't interfere with the pan. I also had to dimple the rail for the wire exit. I forgot to take a picture of that. I cut two reliefs and hammered it round, then filled the reliefs with a bead.

[jason]

I will have to find my other pictures. I found this under a cover while I was working on the rails.

[jason]

While I was waiting on funds and parts I worked on the top frame. I am also working on the motor as I go. I will throw that in too. I only use money from being on call at work or selling parts for the project. Don't do much of either so it's going real slow. I had a loose hinge pin so I removed it. It was super stuck. I used a dremel and a lot of time to remove it. I searched and found that WW type 2 hinge pin is almost an exact match.

[jason]

Cut the rust out and made replacement pieces. I also found that all of the hinge threads were stripped. I turned some nuts on a mini lathe, drilled out the holes and welded them in. Also filled some extra holes. Have to find finished pics. As of now top frame is finished.

Here are the holes filled

[jason]

Replaced front rusty piece. The wavy spot was worked on some more. Found a few rust spots. Cut out rust and made pieces to go in. Kind of difficult, three panels come together here. I haven't finished the grinding yet but close.

[bugmandave]

Those replacement rails look perfect, they would have saved me a bunch of time. where are they from?
_________________
'63 Karmann Cabriolet L456 Rubin (Ruby Red)
'71 Westfalia campmobile tourist delivery
January '59 SWR panel
'63 Karmann Cabriolet L54 Poppy Red

[BulliBill]

Nice thread, keep it up. I know I'll be watching, as I'll be diving into (and starting a thread about) the bone-stock resto of my 1957 Kabriolett pretty soon, now that the resto is pretty much finished on my '59 Double Cab. I'm gonna need to fish the wiring harness through that rocker somehow... P.O. removed the old wiring harness and didn't leave a wire or cord in place to use to guide the new harnessback in through the rocker. Not looking forward to that job! Nice work, I'll be following you...

Bill
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I'm looking for these license plate frames for my fleet:
Coeur D'Alene - Lake Shore Volkswagen
Mission VW - San Fernando
Thornton VW - Stockton

Thanks for any help!

[bugmandave]

Bill, tie a cotton ball to a string and suck it through with a shop vac. Keep pulling stronger twine, etc through until you have something strong enough to pull the harness through.
_________________
'63 Karmann Cabriolet L456 Rubin (Ruby Red)
'71 Westfalia campmobile tourist delivery
January '59 SWR panel
'63 Karmann Cabriolet L54 Poppy Red

[jason]

An electrician showed me the shop vac trick. I used it to fish a nylon pull string through mine.
The rails are from J3 restoration. He makes them to order from an NOS rail he made templates from

[jason]

I'm going to try and keep the body in as stock condition as possible. Meaning nothing that can't be bolted back on and no holes.
I made this tool to straighten the brake tubing. A piece of wood with the same size hose as tube works also. I used wood for the fuel lines, 3/8 stainless. I ran two in case I go FI but will use it as a return with the carbs.
I have the correct 45 and 37 flaring tools if anyone needs them.