Lifted Eurovan with 16x7" rims

[ovsa]

sorry i hadn't seen your reply until just now.

i am going from VW stock 15" steel to 16" Audi aluminium.

thanks

[tds3pete]

[ovsa]

hi,

going to tackle the lift this weekend. I have all the gear:, 16" rims, tires, spacers, bilstiens and a home made 27mm x 6" deep socket.

Haven't crawl under the front yet to look at the torsion bar adjustments but before i do i was wondering:

I am tightening (cw or ccw? ) the 27mm nuts to raise the front equal to the back, right ? Do i use a level on the floor of the van on both axis. (front to back& side to side)? How does the string line/ tape measure deal work. I assume i need a nice level surface.

i have heard changing the torsion might put the cv's out of whack. How do i know if that has happened?

I am also going to replace tie rod ends. Should I go for a pro alignment after all that is done.

One more: what's your suggestion on the lift: 0.75 or 1.5"?. i made four .75 spacers so i can go either way.

Thanks alot

[Xtremjeepn]

[ovsa]

thanks, great help.

just wondering; some people recommend adding more spacer on the driver's side to compensate for the extra weight of the camping gear in the EVC. Do you think using .75" on the passenger side and 1.5" on the other is a good idea or is it better to make up the difference using the torsion bar adjustments?

trying to stay away from doing this twice.

thanks again

[Xtremjeepn]

[ovsa]

good idea, thanks

[ovsa]

I started putting the audi wheels ET 42 on the vehicle and i have a question.

everything lines up good but i notice the engagement from the hub to the rim is not that deep.

the rim sits flat to the wheel hub and the studs engage all the way but not sure if the hub collar (?) goes deep enough into the rims.

i measured and it is just under .500 of an inch. there is still .720 free space in the center bore. total depth of the cnter bore is 1.200

not sure if this is what it is suppose to look like so wanted to be sure before putting it on the road.

here is a photo so you have an idea of what i'm trying to explain

thanks again

[tds3pete]

[ovsa]

Great, thanks

[jjvincent]

Even to make you feel better, you don't even need a centering ring. It's there just to make it easier to mount your wheels.

[ovsa]

o. k. job complete. All i have to do right now is tweek the torsion bar to get it level and put on bigger tires (225/70) . I bought the rims with car tires on them

now i'm wondering if i didnt go too high. I have about 19 inches from wheel well lip to center of rear wheel. Used 1.5" spacers on each side. My concern is road stability.

What do you think?

Like the ground clearance though.

[ovsa]

having a bit of a problem:

After installing the Bilstiens, 1.5" spacers on each side and the 16" rims i measure 18.75" from the fender lip to the center of the rear wheels.

I pretty much tightened the T-bar nuts as high as they'll go (i think, because i couldn't move them anymore with a 18" breaker bar.)I ended up with 16.5" on the drivers side and 17" on the passenger side.

I measured the amount of free threads on the adjusting stud: I get 3.25" on the drivers side and 3.0" on the passenger.

Either i don't have enough strength to keep turning those nuts or i am as high as i can go. It could be that the threads are gunked up too.

Not sure what i should to, take out 0.75 of spacer, get a four foot snipe and pull like mad or just let it be?.

any suggestions?

thanks

[rcowan]

You aren't out of adjustment. I'm betting that the threads are all gunked up. Possibly lowering it a couple turns, adding (more?) oil, and trying again will help. If I remember right, they are threaded to within about a .25" of the body..... Corrosion can be a problem though. I have removed them from the body and cleaned them on the real bad examples. Hopefully you aren't to that point!

[ovsa]

o.k thanks , i'll try that on the next go around.

how hard is it to take them right out for cleaning?

[Itsamoto]

[rcowan]

The threaded rods come out but simply turning them 90 degrees.

Obviously, you have to jack up the van and support it with jack stands. Then the nut that you are adjusting up to lift the van needs to be removed. Once that nut is removed, just turn the treaded rod 90 degrees and it drops out of the body. At least that's how my '99 is.......

[Itsamoto]

[jjvincent]

If you are wanting to make it hard, do it the right way.

Don't take out the T-Bolt that way. Best way to get a 4" hole saw, cut out the whole floor and frame support. The when you want to reinstall, weld back in the metal you cut out.

I was going to suggest flipping the van over and using a plasma cutter to cut out big sections of the van but I'm afraid you'd catch the carpet on fire. I'm a safety first kind of guy.

Need any more ideas, I offer them for free.

[tds3pete]