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Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 11:31 am    Post subject: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

I put liquid wrench on it 24 hours ago. Today used a 4 foot bar on it, and a 'socket' that I welded up 20 years ago (for a loaf).
The nut won round one easily, the bar had no chance. I know about that $90 gear-type multiplier and will consider it. I'd rather borrow one.

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Can I get this nut off in the next hour without leaving the house or buying stuff? Would be nice to put it back on .... Being too quick to cut the nut I'd feel like a loser for a little while.....
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chrissev2
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 11:45 am    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

Torque is 369 ft lbs, which is roughly equivalent to a 185 pound person standing on a breaker bar two feet out from the nut.

That is if the nut isn't rusty.

To increase your chances of success, maybe try heating the nut up with a torch. That seems to work for me a lot of the time when I am dealing with heavily torqued nuts that have been in place for decades.
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 12:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

Thanks Chris for the numbers that helps put a perspective on it. Will try adding heat after this. Better living thru rebar (& MIG welders). Wink

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Gotta run to an important meeting. Wink Could be an hour or 24....
(or with luck he's got the right tool for the job and willing to lend it...)
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'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 12:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

The torque is likely in the range of 600-800 lbs and maybe much more if things are rusty, your rig isn't up to that. VW shops sell cheap little EMPI slug wrenches what will likely do the job. You could also buy a decent industrial quality slug wrench on Amazon or eBay for about $50 IIRC.

Some people just cut a groove in the nut with a Dremel and split it apart.
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dobryan
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 12:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:

Some people just cut a groove in the nut with a Dremel and split it apart.


Yep, works every time. No fuss.... Very Happy
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specialev
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 12:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

When I took apart the hubs on my doka I failed to try and break this nut before removing the hub from the vehicle so I had a real treat trying to do anything on my bench. A little bit of heat goes a long way, however and mine came off pretty easily on the bench once they'd been liberally warmed with my torch.
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msinabottle
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 2:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

I've been looking for a 3/4" breaker bar or a Semi Truck wrench. Adams Rental, the company from whom I used to rent

THE TORQUE WRENCH FROM HELL!


For which, see HERE:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219816

has moved. I watch Craig's List, or hope for something from Harbor Freight. A 1/2" bar won't cut it, and I don't want to have or pay for an impact wrench with that kind of power. More chance of something going wrong.

I have been curious about something called a 'Sliding T Bar Wrench,' which Sears catalogs, and would be grateful for information from those who know more.

I have a 'banjo' to immobilize the hub while I take off the nut. The 'Slug Wrench' as the above posts will show, was a complete failure. I ended up using a propane torch and liquid wrench that epic first time.

Best!
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 2:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

You come upon a 3/4 IR impact you had best grab it.
Industructable, as long as you give it a shot of MMO to lube the hammers in it once in awhile.
My IR 3/4 impact is 40 years old and has never given me a ounce of problems, but I keep it lubed up and use an air dryer on the compressor.

To the OP;
Heat that nut up cherry red, it'll walk right off with the jungle boogie bar you've got.
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 4:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

46mm slug/striking wrench, combined with a 4-8# sledge will make child's play out of removing the nut.
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Terry Kay
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 4:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

& Hope & pray he's paying attention to the slugfest.

I can see that socket getting on their cockeye'd, and taking the points of that castle nut along with it.

Blooey.

Heat is your best friend in this situation.
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 4:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

On my '67 Split, I used the 20' aluminum mast from my Sunfish clone daysailer. Worked like a charm
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 5:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

Victory. That wasn't such a big deal once the scrap pile offered some heavy artillery.
Re-bar-enhanced jungle boogie bar wins cold. Now onward - goal is to to lube rear wheel bearings (while they're still OK).

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'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 6:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

Quick question: (Dave's pic here)

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If I remove those four 22mm head bolts holding the hub onto the trailing arm, will the CV axle come out thru the hole? Or do I have to remove the CV from the stub first?
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'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
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mackaymanx
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 6:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

I bought a torque multiplier to do these, this is set up for tightening but you get the idea.

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warmblood58
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

I am 200 lbs. Last winter I stood on my long breaker after heating and was able to get one nut off. The next nut I heated and did the wax trick - did this several times and finally got that nut off. I feel your pain brother!
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Zeitgeist 13
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

^^^Porn, it shows up where you least expect it.
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crazyvwvanman
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 7:48 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

Yes, the whole axle will come out through that hole while still attached to hub assembly.

Mark


Sodo wrote:
Quick question:
If I remove those four 22mm head bolts holding the hub onto the trailing arm, will the CV axle come out thru the hole? Or do I have to remove the CV from the stub first?
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Sodo
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 8:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

Thanks Mark, thats great. EZ access to the 12pts!
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'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb
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Tristar Eric
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 8:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

Hobo freight has a 3/4" impact gun for $68.97

Worth having just for this job.
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IdahoDoug
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 04, 2016 9:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear axle nut(s) - the battle begins Reply with quote

I keep a 6 foot piece of heavy pipe around for things like this. As long as whatever breaker bar you are using it around holds - it's coming apart. Once also used a car jack under a breaker bar to loosen something. I put a pry bar through the lugnuts with the tip against the floor.
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