2.0L EFI Engine Install --- Won't Run

[smitty1976bus]

Yes, I'll have to check all the grounds, and make sure they're really good. Even though the engine will start, she doesnt run very well.

I have it running the best I've had it so far, but there seems to be some vacuum leak somewhere. Then there is a loud screech that stalls the engine out. I'm not sure how to describe it, so I made a video of it happening:


Link


I don't know if this streeching squeek is a very large vacuum leak, or something much worse. Has anyone ever heard this before?

Smitty

[SGKent]

sounds like it kicks back which stalls it. Then the cylinder pressure goes sky high and that makes a head leak. That would be my best guess. If you have a catalytic converter I would tell you to temporarily take it off just to see if it runs any better. Here is a post you might find interesting. You may have 2 problems - a reason it spits back and a loose head(s).

[old DKP driver]

Times 2 on the cylinder head gasket that should have been deleted years
ago.
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V.W.owner since 1967

[smitty1976bus]

So you're thinking my head gasket is bad? Kind of sounds similar. Would a compression test answer this question?

-SMitty

[airschooled]

[smitty1976bus]

[SGKent]

If it is a head leak, the squeak is the air being forced out when the cylinder pressure is too high. Kinda like pressurizing your mouth with your lips closed until the squeak. The issue needs to be fixed but it may be a side effect of another issue.

Did you check the timing with a timing light?

Did you do a thorough test for vacuum leaks?

Did you ever do a tune-up on it, plugs, points, wires?

Reasonably new fuel?
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[smitty1976bus]

Thats a spot on analogy.

[Wildthings]

A Type 4 bus pulley should have and needs only a single timing mark. It is a tiny "V" on the forward rim of the pulley, that you may have to feel for with a finger nail. Once found use paint to make the mark more visible. Sometimes the mark is not correct though as 411/412/Porsche engines have a mark located elsewhere and when people use these pulleys on their buses they often err in locating a replacement mark on the pulley. Ratwell.com gives the proper way to locate a replacement mark on the pulley.

You can time your engine very accurately by turning the ignition on, setting the distributor end of the coil wire 1/4" from a good ground and then turning the engine CW very slowly past the 7.5* BTDC mark. You ignition should spark right at the mark, not before or after. Repeat by turning the engine CCW about 20* and then CW again past the 7.5* mark until you get the timing right at the mark.

Do not leave the ignition on for an excessive time when timing your engine this way. Only a few minutes at a time.

[curtp07]

Several posts ago, you said you were "skeptical" of your fuel pump. Did you throw a gauge on the rail to test it and the pressure regulator?
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Subaru

[vic74westy]

That squeak reminds me of a lean backfire I had on my weber carbs when they were jetted too lean. Vacuum leaks would cause you to run lean. What about spraying some carb cleaner into the intake to richen things up and see if they smooth out?

[smitty1976bus]

I spent the day wrapping all my vacuum tubes, and replacing intake gaskets, on the drivers side of the engine. I ended up buying paper gaskets from a local auto parts store:

The old gaskets didnt look too bad, and they were new when I put the engine back together. But the paper ones look good, and fit nicely, dispite me just cutting them to fit:

I then put all the fresh vacuum lines back on:

Nothings getting through that.

This is the last thing I try before pulling the heads off.

I cranked over the engine, and to my surprise, it started right up, and the weird squeeking sound was gone! It even was able to idle! albeit, a high idle. I think there is a vacuum leak somewhere though. It does rev high when ever I hit the accelerator. Here's a video:

Link


I still havent timed it properly though, i'll have to once i figure out what crank pulley i have.

[Wildthings]

It doesn't look like your #4 wire is actually attached to the spark plug, but just stuffed down next to it.

[aerosurfer]

Great job!

Get it timed, and I think you'll find the idle will come down. Don't stress over what pulley is there. There are no aftermarket stock type ones for the T4 motor. Variations from other cars exist, like wildthings said above, but likely you have a proper bus one on there.

Even better if you can get it tuned via tail pipe sniffer, LM1 or other wide and o2 sensor. But that's a few steps down the road for you.

Now start adding back in your other Vac hoses and go for a drive.
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Rebuild your own FI Harness..My Harness

77 Westy 2.0L Rockin and Rolling Resto!

72 Sportsmobile (sold)
79 Tran$porter... Parts car money machine (gone)

[curtp07]

Hard to tell from your pic, but both ends of the fuel line clamped at the injectors?

Get some real hose clamps when you put your vacuum hoses back, IMO those auto zone clamps are terrible..

http://www.belmetric.com
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Subaru

[SGKent]

this is what the timing mark will look like. It will be on the engine side of the pulley.

The arrow on this one. Ignore the O ?

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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[smitty1976bus]

[THall]

If it wasn't already mentioned....make sure to get the foam engine-to-tin seal installed for proper cooling.
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'78 Westy - 2.0 FI

[SGKent]

nice steady idle. Get a fan screen for it so it doesn't suck a rag etc into the fan and destroy it. Also check the exhaust for leaks.
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“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[aerosurfer]