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VWBUS998
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2006
Posts: 102
Location: Toronto, Ohio
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 Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 7:13 pm Post subject: Engine tin and screws |
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While deciding on a final paint scheme I figured I'd get my engine cleaned and detailed. I searched and came up with that I'm missing the lower right front tin but from my search it is exclusive to the 79 california 2.0 which is to te best of my research the motor in my bus a picture of this piece or a part number would greatly help out in trying to locate it. Also going to order new screws need a good source and about how many needed for the tin. Thanks
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My resto pictures http://mysite.verizon.net/resp7ex0/vwbusphotoalbum/
Last edited by VWBUS998 on Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:26 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Traveling Writer
Samba Scribe
Joined: May 07, 2006
Posts: 1112
Location: Florence, Italy
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| Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 7:17 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not quite sure what piece you need, but I just got a tin to cover my left pushrods (#3 and 4) from a junked bus at a local vw guy's place. Wasn't much, and I ordered up a sack of new screws from Bus Depot just to avoid hassles. It was a dollar or so a bag of 6 or 8, and the tin needed 4 to install. Hope this helps a little!
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Cheers,
Davi
1977 2.0 FI Westy
2011 1200cc Yamaha Super Tenere
1976 Feet (they work surprisingly well) |
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Glenn 
Mr. 010
Joined: December 25, 2001
Posts: 76937
Location: Sneaking up behind you
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Redd73
Samba Member
Joined: March 05, 2007
Posts: 836
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| Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 11:26 pm Post subject: |
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sweet. i have about 20 of these now. when im driving regularly i check my tin about once a week. i lose those screws all the time.
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"...theres nowhere to go but everywhere." - Kerouac
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73 Westy 2000cc w/dual solex (engine code GE) + aftermarket AC |
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1FUNBUG
Samba Member
Joined: June 29, 2004
Posts: 599
Location: Waterville, OH
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 7:01 am Post subject: |
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Get these...
Picture is from Ratwell's site.
You'll use most of the bag if you replace every screw.
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1FUNBUG
71 Beetle, 1776, dual Kadrons
77 Westy, Camper Special 2.0 F.I. |
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NOVA Bus
Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2005
Posts: 517
Location: Herndon, VA
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vdubyah73
Samba Member
Joined: July 05, 2003
Posts: 2541
Location: somewhere in Texas, my house has wheels
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 7:59 am Post subject: |
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I always use stainless, with never seize, when replacing tin screws. They always come back out when I need to remove them.
Bill
_________________
burning down the house
73 bounty hunter, sold.
'77 transporter, junked had crotch rot.
Dubless, but have a CPR built stroker waiting for a new to me Beetle
'93 Fleetwood Bounder 34' |
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jl74supercab
Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2007
Posts: 172
Location: Flemington, NJ
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:33 am Post subject: |
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for diagrams and part numbers for cooling tin go to http://www.bus-boys.com . Scroll down on the left frame for Air cooling system parts.
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73 Riviera Camper - "Julius"
74 Super Convertible - "Someday" |
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Karl
Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2001
Posts: 6170
Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:02 am Post subject: Re: Engine tin and srews |
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| VWBUS998 wrote: |
| While deciding on a final paint scheme I figured I'd get my engine cleaned and detailed. I searched and came up with that I'm missing the lower right front tin but from my search it is exclusive to the 79 california 2.0 which is to te best of my research the motor in my bus a picture of this piece or a part number would greatly help out in trying to locate it. Also going to order new screws need a good source and about how many needed for the tin. Thanks |
The lower fronts are not Calif only. The left side is the same as 72-74. The right side is 79 Fed or Cal.
The lower tin covering the pushrods is different between 79 Fed and 79 Calif on the left side. Same piece for both 79 Fed and Calif on the right side as 72-74; except 79 does not have the hole in the front edge for the 3rd hose coming off the fuel pump on the 72-74.
On the lower right front: the tin shape is the same between 72-74 and 79 except for the square hole for the hot air duct for the carb pre-heat.
Here are pics of the 2 pieces:
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Karl
Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2001
Posts: 6170
Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 11:09 am Post subject: |
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Here are the right lower pushrod tin. Only difference is the hole for the 3rd fuel hose coming off the 72-74 fuel pump.
The 72-74:
The 79:
I can post pics of the 79 Calif only left lower if anyone wants to see it. |
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Redd73
Samba Member
Joined: March 05, 2007
Posts: 836
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 12:05 pm Post subject: |
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i have a 73 with a replacement GE block but the original 73 tin. on each only three of the holes line up.
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"...theres nowhere to go but everywhere." - Kerouac
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73 Westy 2000cc w/dual solex (engine code GE) + aftermarket AC |
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twinfalls
Samba Member
Joined: November 21, 2003
Posts: 2133
Location: France
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 12:18 pm Post subject: |
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| vdubyah73 wrote: |
I always use stainless, with never seize, when replacing tin screws. They always come back out when I need to remove them.
Bill |
I replace rusty screws with stainless too, on my boat and bus; This saves a lot of time.
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Stock 1974 US Westy, AW-A 1800cc dual carbs. Twin Falls is my favorite site on the Churchill river in Manitoba. |
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keifernet
Samba Search & Rescue
Joined: May 11, 2002
Posts: 19395
Location: Samba Center for Behavioral Science
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 12:31 pm Post subject: |
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| Karl wrote: |
Here are the right lower pushrod tin. Only difference is the hole for the 3rd fuel hose coming off the 72-74 fuel pump.
I can post pics of the 79 Calif only left lower if anyone wants to see it. |
That would be nice... |
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VWBUS998
Samba Member
Joined: April 01, 2006
Posts: 102
Location: Toronto, Ohio
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 12:44 pm Post subject: |
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The puzzle all started when my computer crashed and lost most of my pictures when I started in summer of 2006 I definitly need lower below push rod as in Karl's photo. #1 & #2 I got figured out but #3  along with the piece I'm missing still have me puzzled. I just want to install tin as I assemble my motor
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My resto pictures http://mysite.verizon.net/resp7ex0/vwbusphotoalbum/ |
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Karl
Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2001
Posts: 6170
Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 5:25 pm Post subject: |
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| keifernet wrote: |
| Karl wrote: |
Here are the right lower pushrod tin. Only difference is the hole for the 3rd fuel hose coming off the 72-74 fuel pump.
I can post pics of the 79 Calif only left lower if anyone wants to see it. |
That would be nice... |
Here is the 79 Cal left lower:
and
It is easy to confuse it with 80-83.5 Vanagon Calif left lower except......
On the bay the flat section, along the top in the upper pic and along the bottom in the lower pic, is over an inch wide. On the Vanagon, it is about a 1/2 inch wide. Both resemble 75-78 bay lower where it is curved to clear the exhaust manifold. |
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Karl
Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2001
Posts: 6170
Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 5:47 pm Post subject: |
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| VWBUS998 wrote: |
| The puzzle all started when my computer crashed and lost most of my pictures when I started in summer of 2006 I definitly need lower below push rod as in Karl's photo. #1 & #2 I got figured out but #3  along with the piece I'm missing still have me puzzled. I just want to install tin as I assemble my motor |
Go here and pick the ones you need. I may have them.
http://www.bus-boys.com/aircoolsystem.html#tin |
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Rocknrod
Samba Member
Joined: November 02, 2004
Posts: 2157
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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Best thing I've found was a screw driver that actually fits the tin screws.
Its got a square shank probably three quarters of an inch thick... more pry bar than anything. Clean out the slot, adjustable wrench on the shank and they all pop loose without much fuss. Too small screw driver and the first time it slips dooms all future progress.
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1971 Westfalia with a high top.
http://71vwbus.blogspot.com/ - Pictures and words... Oh My! |
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NOVA Bus
Samba Member
Joined: April 18, 2005
Posts: 517
Location: Herndon, VA
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 7:22 pm Post subject: |
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I use a Phillips Posi-driver, large size works well for ski binding adjustment/screws.. 
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1977 Transporter / Weekender
- GE engine, L-Jetronic w/ hyd. lifters
- Brown Beige plaid P27 Interior (ED)
http:/[url=http://www.vw-mplate.com/mplate-29638.png]Click to view image
Camper Interior donor:
[/URL]/www.vw-mplate.com/mcode.php?lang=EN&id=721 (M-Code for interior). |
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Karl
Samba Member
Joined: January 29, 2001
Posts: 6170
Location: Coos Bay, Oregon
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:50 pm Post subject: |
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| Can someone please correct the spelling of the word srews in the topic name? |
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hazetguy
Samba Member
Joined: April 06, 2001
Posts: 10773
Location: iT StiNgeD iTseLf tO dEAd
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| Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:59 pm Post subject: |
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| NOVA Bus wrote: |
| I use a Phillips Posi-driver, large size works well for ski binding adjustment/screws.. |
A Phillips Screwdriver should not be used with a Pozidrive Screw, or visa versa. Serious damage will result in both the screw and the driver head.
is it really that difficult to get a #3 phillips head screw driver?
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Last edited by hazetguy on Thu Jan 17, 2008 8:12 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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