Hehr jalousie windows

[easy e]

You're windows look great.
I'm done with the photo / logic approach.
Will come back if I have printed matter.
_________________
aka: Evan
Spreadsheet for Bus RPM, based on gearing & tire size (Excel format)
Searchable, click-navigable 1958 Bus Parts List

[easy e]

Well, I'm back... but I don't have any printed matter.
But, videos are fun & I have one for you.

So besides contacting the last living Hehr 2187 assemblyman & video interviewing them... I can get you the same result with a qualitative test.

Here's the required pre-video understanding....
Aluminum is a good electrical conductor.
Anodizing aluminum makes it non-conductive.
Multimeter leads on an anodized piece of aluminum read infinite resistance.

Let's go over that one more time...
"Aluminum Anodizing is an electrochemical process that creates a thin aluminum oxide film on the surface of aluminum substrates. The resulting anodized film is electrically non-conductive, protects the aluminum against corrosion and is resistant to wear."

Enjoy... (don't worry, I won't quit my day job to become a videographer)


Link

_________________
aka: Evan
Spreadsheet for Bus RPM, based on gearing & tire size (Excel format)
Searchable, click-navigable 1958 Bus Parts List

[BarryL]

From 0:42 through 0:44 it shows full conductivity.

[easy e]

Yes, I noticed that and obtained a re-read.
Maybe the sharp tips of my leads got below a layer.
I'll reiterate... anodizing is a surface coating.

It's something you can all try at home. Knock yourself out.
Ideally replicating the test on unbuffed/unwire-wheeled material... with leads not landing on patches of corrosion or pressed too deep into the metal.

I had infinite resistance on the windows on other side of the bus, at each of the confirmed as anodized tent mounts. That blip you saw was the outlier.

There's also another qualitative method, I haven't tried yet.
Aluminum is soft.
Anodizing is hard.
When I have a window out... I imagine the inside of the frame is more pristine.
I'll find a material harder than aluminum, but softer than steel... and then rub it on the frame.
If the material is left on the frame... the frame is hard (anodized).
If the frame is gouged... it's soft, not anodized.
I imagine the shape of the instrument matters... will have to read.
_________________
aka: Evan
Spreadsheet for Bus RPM, based on gearing & tire size (Excel format)
Searchable, click-navigable 1958 Bus Parts List

[Major Woody]

Sorry just getting back to this thread and see that a question was directed my way.
I believe mine were mill finish and not anodized based on the following evidence:
1) I bought the bus from the original owner in original condition. The windows had never been apart, or off the bus, clearly. The bus had been off the road and under a carport since 1980. The bus lived its whole life in south Texas.
2) When I took the windows completely apart, the aluminum was oxidized. However, it would easily polish up where it was not pitted. Anodizing inhibits pitting but it also inhibits polishing. Anyone who has attempted to polish an anodized part experiences this--first you have to remove the surface coating before you can get anywhere. If the window frames had been anodized, I would have known about it. Same thing for the interior screen frames. They polished up easily.
3) Under the fasteners and the sealant, the surface was not shiny like one would expect if there was a surface coating.
4) I polished my frames six or so years ago, I think. At that point, I had them clear powder coated before reassembly. Of course they still look freshly polished and the bus is always in the garage so I cannot speak to how long the finish lasts out in the weather.

I don't have any interest in the argument over what these windows should look like in a 100% factory restoration because I don't care. I wanted my windows and other trinkets super shiny so I polished every aluminum part on the bus except the carb and the fuel pump, (those got bead blasted) because I think it looks nice and I built this thing for me.

That's all I got.

[easy e]

At my job... I challenge & get challenged everyday.
So, I tend to appreciate the questioning attitude / devil's advocate position... rather than take it personally.

So, if you can't tell... that was my introduction into me eating crow
Mmmm.... num, num, num

I talked to some Hehr folks at several of their facilities & ended up talking with a corporate engineer. Right where I wanted to be.

I sent him a page DadaCheese found of an old Hehr catalog... and some other window pics. Asked him to look into it. There was plenty to lead me to believe it's anodized. Turns out: NOT anodized.

One kinda weird thing... the engineer said the glass isn't safety glass... but the catalog page DadaCheese has says it is? Maybe it wasn't in the beginning... and then was later on. EDIT: maybe safety glass meant laminated

Here's his reply (probably have to click it, to make it big enough to read):

Here's the page DadaCheese found:

_________________
aka: Evan
Spreadsheet for Bus RPM, based on gearing & tire size (Excel format)
Searchable, click-navigable 1958 Bus Parts List

[mandraks]

[BarryL]

[Craig]

easy, thank you for your research; thanks as well as to Barry, Crofty, and M. Woody.

[BarryL]

[cru62]

Originally, laminated glass WAS safety glass. It was the second generation after regular old plate glass which was phased out for obvious reasons in the late 20s early 30s. At the same time, glass suppliers were developing tempered plate glass on their way to contoured tempered glass. Nowadays, the only glass on a car that is not tempered safety glass is likely the windshield. At least in the US.
_________________
"My biggest worry is that when I die, my wife will sell all my parts for what I told her I paid for them"-Jon

Jokes about German sausage are the wurst.

Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

[swharris]

[swharris]

[easy e]

Maybe JFB & fotoroadie are making a buck from developing a skill at doctoring up windows... and that's fine. Even saying they are "restoring" them is fine.

It all depends on your perspective.
One person might say "I'd like Neil Pickett to restore my bus."
Another might say Chip Foose.
"Restoration" is a pretty loose term.

I just wanted to get to the bottom of the material finish.... because I've got some windows that need attention.
Galvanized hardware might not seem like the greatest... but I don't want stainless. Neither restorers offer original hardware. If they did, I'd be halfway to asking for a quote.

But, whatever finish is provided... removes the factory "mill finish" & a sort of emulation (with less corrosion resistance) remains.

I'll likely send out my disassembled frames for stripping, polishing to get the pits out, and dull / satin anodizing. This is still an emulation, but it'll look good... and have inherent corrosion protection. I'll find the original type hardware & post sources... whenever I get to that point. Ah crap, I might as well start plugging away at it now.

A company I've used before: www.kingoftrim.com
They're not cheap... but I consider this a Gene Berg moment (cry once).

The two restorers apparently provide good looking windows & do a lot of work.
It's just not for me... on the bus in my queue.
_________________
aka: Evan
Spreadsheet for Bus RPM, based on gearing & tire size (Excel format)
Searchable, click-navigable 1958 Bus Parts List

[swharris]

[spaardingske]

could i use the hehr windows with the round corners in a panelvan ?

[fotoroadie]

[edgood1]

I've never seen one of those contoured hehe windows but I've seen plenty of flat ones.... All with square corners. They fit panel vans just fine. If you cut the hole the right size and use a thick gasket the round corner window should work... But if you want the square corner one I'm sure someone would be willing to trade.
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia powered by Subaru
1963 Panel to Deluxe Bus project :::: (photo album)
'65 Westfalia

[ernstben]

[Mr. Electric Wizard]