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1967 convertible top
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richardsxfile
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2012 11:31 pm    Post subject: 1967 convertible top Reply with quote

I just had a new top installed on my '67 by a reputable VW resto shop, and while it looks great, I do have a few concerns. I am looking for some input/advise as I consider how to move forward.

A little background: About 10 years ago I couldn't quite close the top after driving around with it down. It would barely reach the windshield but not enough to engage the latches. That was the day my Ghia became a roadster in spirit. Living in So Cal, there are less than 30 days in the year I wouldn't drive with the top down. My car has always been garaged and after taking it out, I always put the top back up and left it unlatched.

I decided to finally get the top done, but now I have a cosmetic question and a door closing issue.

1. Cosmetically - Where the headliner meets the header, should the headliner attach between the header and cover plate? This was how mine was before. The shop attached the new headliner between the frame and the header, so when you look up, you can see the header which leaves a gap between the cover plate and headliner. They wrapped it in vinyl, but it seems it would be so much cleaner if the headliner met the cover plate and hid the header entirely. Am I correct that the headliner should be stapled UNDER the header rather than ABOVE it? I know it would look better; I want to be certain how it was off the assembly line. See photo.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


2. Top pressure - It takes some tremendous torquing to close the new top. I realize it will stretch some, but it feels like my Huf crank is going to snap in half as I'm cranking it closed. Will time fix this or are the header and latches not far enough forward?

3. Door issues - My doors and gaps were perfect before the top. Now, not so much. The back of the car moved forward, so now the gaps at the back of the door are too small. So small, that they won't close correctly because the rubber seals won't fit in the incredibly tight spaces. At the top of the doors, the gap is almost nonexistent - less than 1/16. As you move down it's 1/16, maybe 1/8 at the widest points. The installer told me it was normal for the body to shift like that with the new top. I realize I didn't have it latched for 10 years, but the body never came off the pan. Could the gap really have opened up? I don't see how the new smaller gaps are supposed to work. I have the gray German quality rubber and it bunches up and won't allow the doors to close all the way. Even more telling that some serious body pulling is occurring is that the driver door came back to me too far in about an 1/8 inch and the passenger door is too far out 1/8 inch. I can't get the passenger door in any more because the seal won't fit. I can't get the driver door out because the striker is already adjusted to its outer limit. (I took the seal off the driver door, or it wouldn't have any chance of even meeting the striker.)

Is the top frame way too tight? I haven't pulled the seat out to check the pan bolts there nor at the shock tower. Wouldn't those have had to have been loosened to bring the rear forward so much? Last summer I put new hinges, seals, latches, wedges, etc. on the doors and they were working and gapped perfectly. Now I have a new top, but I can't enjoy it because the doors are so messed up.

Obviously, I need to take the car back, but I was wondering about the headliner and if anyone had more knowledge on releasing some of the top tension and getting the rear to move down and back the 1/8 inch or so I need. Thanks for any and all input.
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sputnick60
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 2:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Richard,

This is a photo of my '66 before I dismantled it. It should be fairly similar to yours and is the original cabrio top for that car
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I hope that helps your cause

Nicholas
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Disc
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 2:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1. Thanks to Ghiaddict, here is nice topic about convertible top replacement:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=389729

Car in topic is later, '70 but headliner fit is the same as yours. When headliner is replaced, first header bow must be warped is piece of headlined material and then headliner is tacked ABOVE header bow. Seems like reputable VW resto shop have their own way to do this.
Here's a pic from topic mentioned above:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Just like sputnick60's car.
Here's a pic from one of tops that I've replaced. You can see that piece of headliner tacked to header bow. Cover plate is not yet installed.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


2. and 3. - They must adjust top frame to fit proper, before even start replacing top. When top is replaced there is a bit of pressure when latching the top, but not that big to ruin perfect door gaps and prevent doors from closing! May be they didn't adjust top frame, or top cover is over tighten when tacked in place.

Give them a visit!
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richardsxfile
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2012 11:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Nicholas and Disc. So I guess the header is still visible, but it should be wrapped in headliner material. Is the cover plate then wrapped in vinyl? Sputnick60's cover plate doesn't look perforated. I have the original metal cover plate. Is the vinyl correct versus headliner material or paint?
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Disc
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cover plate must be wrapped in vinyl. You can paint the cover, just for rust prevention.
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sputnick60
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 09, 2012 6:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Disc wrote:
Cover plate must be wrapped in vinyl. You can paint the cover, just for rust prevention.

Yep that's right and like you correctly spotted, the material is not perforated vinyl as the headline is, rather it's a grainy material of similar weight.

Nicholas.
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69sback
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2012 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

did you get canvas? it will be hard to crank for a while until it stretches out. I had to leave my top up for a week or two before it stretched out and became easier to crank.

EDIT: to give you an idea of how hard it was to get the top down and latched, I needed another person to push down on the top while I would crank it. That was the first week or two. Now 5 weeks later, I can use my left hand to pull it tight and crank lightly with my right hand.
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richardsxfile
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 8:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is canvas. I expect the fit to be very tight especially at the beginning, but not so tight that I can't close my doors. I haven't had the top down since I got it back about 3 weeks ago. I have talked with the shop and will be taking it back. I haven't even driven the car since it depresses me that the doors are so bad at the moment. I doubt the door gap is going to open enough as the top stretches, so I assume I'll have to investigate what's going on at the rear seat bolts and shock tower. I haven't had a chance to do so as I have a two month old and a three year old at home. Assuming the bolts are all in place, I'm perplexed as to how the body could flex so much. I hope it wasn't tweaked in a way that can't be fixed.
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richardsxfile
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's seven months later, and I do not have a working top or resolution with the shop owner. I have posted a detailed account of my experience with Lenny Copp at West Coast Classic in Fullerton, California in the buyer and seller feedback forum ( http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6664008#6664008 ). My experience with Lenny has been disastrous for me and my vehicle.

Does anyone have a photo of a 67 Ghia with the top in the closed position but not latched? Part of the problem with the work Lenny did is that he didn't adjust the frame, so when the top is brought forward, it is still quite a distance away from the pins the latches need to engage. It takes three people and Herculean strength to close the gap and crank the top closed. This then pulls the windshield back and the rear of the car forward which closes the door gaps at the rear entirely so that they do not open and close as normal.

Still waiting for Lenny to make this right after numerous broken promises.

A photo or measurement of the distance from latch to pin before cranking would be great if someone has it. $3,100 later and mine has to be forced a few inches before the latches even begin to engage. Sad
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rcooled
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2013 6:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ask, and you shall receive...

This is my '67 with a 3-year-old Hartz Stayfast canvas top, shown here with the latch just released. The gap between top & windshield header is about 1 1/2", measured at the middle. After the top's been down for the afternoon, it'll sit a little higher but I can easily snug it down with one hand while latching with the other.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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richardsxfile
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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 1:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, rcooled. Love your Ghia. I've actually viewed your photos of it when searching 67 Ghias on a few occasions. Are the snaps for your top cover above the trim under the rear window or screwed/glued/welded to it? Is it correct that originally the top cover only snapped at the front, sides, and rear corners and not at all along the center rear above the deck lid vents?

PS I want your rear view mirror. I have the 66 style.
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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 1:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

66-67 should be the same mirror. no?
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rcooled
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PostPosted: Fri May 17, 2013 6:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

richardsxfile wrote:
Thanks, rcooled. Love your Ghia. I've actually viewed your photos of it when searching 67 Ghias on a few occasions. Are the snaps for your top cover above the trim under the rear window or screwed/glued/welded to it? Is it correct that originally the top cover only snapped at the front, sides, and rear corners and not at all along the center rear above the deck lid vents?.

Thanks!
I have the snaps in the chrome trim strip as per OEM. My '67 is an early one with the wooden tack strip at the rear. These are the only ones that can use the chrome trim along the back edge...it covers all the staples in the top. The snaps are screwed on and the ones in the trim have a small round spacer under each one. These plastic spacers have one end shaped to match the 1/2-round profile of the trim. The two snaps that screw into the body have flat rubber washers under them.
There are 8 snaps on the outside of the car. 3 in each corner of the chrome trim and 2 in the body up by the door seam. The snaps don't go all the way across the back of the boot...they're only in the corners. There's probably a more-or-less standard pattern for placing them...searching might turn up some more info.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


richardsxfile wrote:
PS I want your rear view mirror. I have the 66 style.

c21darrel wrote:
66-67 should be the same mirror. no?

I'm pretty sure that the interior mirror was a one-year-only deal for '67. The difference is in the backing that holds the glass...in '67 it was black pebble-grain plastic...on earlier cars it was polished aluminum. In '68, the entire mirror assembly changed to an all-plastic breakaway design.
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Last edited by rcooled on Sat May 18, 2013 3:59 pm; edited 1 time in total
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toddb_67
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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 6:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Quote:
It's seven months later, and I do not have a working top or resolution with the shop owner. I have posted a detailed account of my experience with Lenny Copp at West Coast Classic in Fullerton, California in the buyer and seller feedback forum ( http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6664008#6664008 ). My experience with Lenny has been disastrous for me and my vehicle.


Richard, I just read your account of what happened with you and your car and it makes me sick. I'm sorry you are going through this and I hope you get some resolution that will both please you and fix your car... the right way.
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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 9:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rcooled, your Ghia is CLEAN! I also have a 1967 convertible. Do you have a header seal on your top? If you do, what does it look like and where did you get it. I am currently using foam tape and it doesn't look very good. Sorry to get off topic.
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PostPosted: Sat May 18, 2013 4:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

vwcomet wrote:
Rcooled, your Ghia is CLEAN! I also have a 1967 convertible. Do you have a header seal on your top? If you do, what does it look like and where did you get it. I am currently using foam tape and it doesn't look very good. Sorry to get off topic.

Thanks!

I didn't install the top myself, but I can definitely feel some kind of seal at the front header. The canvas top material wraps around and covers it, so I can't tell exactly what it looks like. FWIW, I have no wind leaks at the header...and this is with the original wooden bow in the top.
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laguest
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know this is an old thread, but I am having the same issue with my bug. The top needs to come down further toward the front window so it latched better.

Is there a way to do this?

It could be my frame was hacked and is a bit short.

Thanks
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 28, 2014 10:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

laguest wrote:
I know this is an old thread, but I am having the same issue with my bug. The top needs to come down further toward the front window so it latched better.

Is there a way to do this?

It could be my frame was hacked and is a bit short.

Thanks


Odds are your top has shrunk. The odds of a frame being hacked, etc. would say it never fit - and that would be strange to put all that upholstery work onto an ill fitting frame.

Have you tried slowly stretching it with towels in hot water?
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laguest
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the info on getting the top to fit right. I have it sitting in the driveway right now in the hot sun.

I took some more pics to show whats going on.
http://gallery.guestfamily.com/Top-02

On the passenger side it seems the top is one inch back from the front. This is both on the outside and inside. On the driver side its about half an inch, again both on the outside and inside.

You can also see the top has some boxes on it so its sitting down against the car.

Looking at this more could it be that at one point the top did close the correct way, but now maybe the body has been tweaked some so now the top come up short from hitting the correct spot in the front?

Thanks
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 05, 2014 3:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

laguest wrote:

Looking at this more could it be that at one point the top did close the correct way, but now maybe the body has been tweaked some so now the top come up short from hitting the correct spot in the front?


1/2" to an inch just isn't very much - and the fabric can shrink if the car was stored with the top down for extended periods.

Is the top canvas or vinyl? Not sure if the hot water trick would work with the vinyl, but heating pads on it for a while with tension could possibly open it up for you.
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