How to tell if my ignition switch is going bad?

[akear]

Over the past month, I’ve had a few instances where soon after starting my car it shuts off, as if I had switched the key off, but then it will start right back up and run fine. I've put it on my mental list of oddities to track down later, thinking at the time maybe the condenser was going bad. Over the last couple of days this shutting off problem is happening more frequently, usually after first starting but also a couple of times while driving down the road. I’m now thinking ignition switch but not sure how to confirm that’s the problem and I’d prefer not to go through the time and hassle of replacing the switch on a hunch. Any ideas how to diagnosis if it is the switch that’s going bad? I’ve tried jiggling the key to try to replicate the problem but with no luck. Thanks.

[jwold]

Have you checked both battery cables, are they tight? What about the shut-off solenoid on the carburetor? Do you have a big heavy key chain & keys hanging off of the switch?

[60ragtop]

when it dies, what happens withy the dash lights? If they stay on it probably isn't the ignition switch but if they do go out I'd suspect a bad switch.
_________________
Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986

[akear]

^^
Battery cables - good and tight
Shut-off solenoid - haven't checked but don't think that's it (see dash light answer)
Big heavy key ring - nope.
Dash lights - Gen light briefly flickers once then out (just like when switching off car.) I have an aftermarket radio that is on a switched circuit that also goes off. But I still have power as turning the key off and back to start fires the starter no problem.

[Starbucket]

check the body to ground strap (trans to body under the car), if loose or bad connection the car stops. To eliminate the ign. switch, start the car and then run a jumper wire from battery pos. to coil pos. and drive it, if it still quits its a ground problem somewhere. Don't forget to turn it off, remove the jumper.

[akear]

[Starbucket]

[jwold]

And I bet you've had regrets about that decision! Ex gf still has the car?
Sorry...sidetracking the thread!

[Starbucket]

[akear]

Update – It’s the switch. A trip to the gym early this morning with my headlights on confirmed it prior to my rigging up Starbucket's suggested ign. switch isolation jumper. The car turned off on my way, my headlights and radio went out, but parking lights and gauge lights all stayed on. So that tells me it has to be the switch. Another question – when I get the new one to install, should I just splice it into the existing wiring at the steering column? It looks like a big pain to run all the wires back to their original terminal points behind the dash.

[Starbucket]

I think you have to splice them as aftermarket switches don't have long enough wires and if they were long enough it's a giant hassle. Make it a clean job and solder and shrink tube them You can buy everything needed at Harbor freight for under $25 (heat gun, solder, soldering iron, and shrink tubing).