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ac78 Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2008 Posts: 330 Location: Nashville
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Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 4:18 pm Post subject: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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Hey all-
Got a 78 FI Hydr Westy. Something has been off the last couple weeks. Stumbling a bit, back fire on decel etc.
Recently replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points.
Vacuum is sitting pretty steady at 13 at the plenum. I have followed the hose diagram and reset connections. I am getting a reading of 0(zero) at dizzy/throttle body no matter what happens to the rpms. What should this reading be? I have been searching but I must not be phrasing it right.
Another curious piece is that the timing light on #1 shows 0-TDC at idle, not the 7.5 btdc that its supposed to with hose off. If I cant figure out why there's no vacuum at the distributor, I don't want to start messing with advance.
Should I be looking at valve adjustment? I know they are hydr, but I don't know what they are set to. Would that throw my vacuum off that much?
Thanks in advance. _________________ 78 Westy 2.0l hydr. FI
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51150 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 6:17 pm Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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If you don't know what the valves are set to you should do it just to have a base line for next year when your yearly reset to monitor valve and cam health, log how many turns each one takes to reach zero lash and watch for changing numbers.
But I doubt that has anything to do with your current issue, start by removing the distributor hose from the plenum and sucking on it, will it hold a vacuum?, how about if you disconnect the EEC valve on the air filter and block that leg of the Tee, hold vacuum now?, does the points plate in the distributor move when you suck hard?
Let us know what you discover. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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ac78 Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2008 Posts: 330 Location: Nashville
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Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 10:00 pm Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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busdaddy wrote: |
If you don't know what the valves are set to you should do it just to have a base line for next year when your yearly reset to monitor valve and cam health, log how many turns each one takes to reach zero lash and watch for changing numbers.
But I doubt that has anything to do with your current issue, start by removing the distributor hose from the plenum and sucking on it, will it hold a vacuum?, how about if you disconnect the EEC valve on the air filter and block that leg of the Tee, hold vacuum now?, does the points plate in the distributor move when you suck hard?
Let us know what you discover. |
I'll check the valves tomorrow and I did want to clarify why the tune up. The reason why I changed plugs, wires, cap, rotor and points is because I wanted a baseline. The PO did the tune up years ago but I just bought it and wanted to start the clock. I found 3 different spark plugs and it did sound noticeably better afterwards.
The vacuum diagram I'm looking at on ratwell shows the distributor can, eec and throttle body connected. It seems the only spot for the vacuum to be available is from the throttle body port. The decel and fuel pressure regulator are on the plenum and any of those are giving me 13.
I did test the eec cutoff valve and it is bad. I was able to blow air into the air cleaner. I disconnected the hose and put a golf tee in it for now. I am sure that i put the vacuum guage on that end but will confirm in the morning.
I was also successful moving the points plate in the distributor manually.
I'll report more tomorrow. Thanks getting me started BD! _________________ 78 Westy 2.0l hydr. FI
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51150 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Wed Apr 13, 2016 10:11 pm Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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Hold off on the valve messing for now, lets concentrate on isolating the cause of the issue without masking things with too many fixes at the same time.
So you've already discovered the failed EEC, now see if the distributor will hold a vacuum with that golf tee replacing the EEC, if not try a short piece of new hose directly on the distributor to rule out porous lines leading to it. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
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ac78 Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2008 Posts: 330 Location: Nashville
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 7:29 am Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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busdaddy wrote: |
Hold off on the valve messing for now, lets concentrate on isolating the cause of the issue without masking things with too many fixes at the same time.
So you've already discovered the failed EEC, now see if the distributor will hold a vacuum with that golf tee replacing the EEC, if not try a short piece of new hose directly on the distributor to rule out porous lines leading to it. |
Went to Flaps and got some vacuum hoses and tees. I replaced all lines for EEC, Distributor and throttle body. I am not able to get any Vacuum on that side, even a single line straight to throttle body nipple.
Just for fun I teed that side into the plenum(with Decel and fuel press reg) and my vac went to a solid 15, rpm raised and the engine sounded awesome. Unplug and plug it back in according to diagram, goes to crap again.
I do not understand why I don't get any reading at the throttle body. I know there is a seal back there so maybe its toast. I will remove the throttle body and report back.
If someone has a vac guage handy and the time, can you get me a reading straight from the throttle body? Should it be 15+ just like the plenum? I would venture to say yes since it's in between the S-boot and plenum.
Thanks in advance! _________________ 78 Westy 2.0l hydr. FI
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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ac78 Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2008 Posts: 330 Location: Nashville
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 10:37 am Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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That's the one and it looked okay. There was some gunk on the butterfly so I cleaned the throttle body and gasket. Certainly no obstruction now and have good vacuum when I open the throttle. I changed all vacuum hoses and tees to make sure they were new. I still think its low, but I have a solid 13 on the plenum side so no real change there.
Now I'll check current timing, dwell etc. _________________ 78 Westy 2.0l hydr. FI
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airschooled Air-Schooled
Joined: April 04, 2012 Posts: 12727 Location: on a bike ride somewhere
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 11:43 am Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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Does that seal the throttle body to the plenum, or does it go on the s-boot connection? _________________ Learn how your vintage VW works. And why it doesn't!
One-on-one tech help for your Volkswagen:
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ac78 Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2008 Posts: 330 Location: Nashville
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 11:46 am Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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asiab3 wrote: |
Does that seal the throttle body to the plenum, or does it go on the s-boot connection? |
That seal is Throttle body to plenum.
Here are some current readings(With my 13 hg vacuum):
Dwell- 48.7
RPM- 880-900- small movement in the meter
5 degrees ATDC with vac hose on
34 degrees BTDC at 3500 rpm with vac hose on _________________ 78 Westy 2.0l hydr. FI
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 11:48 am Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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Why are you at 5º ATDC?
Remove the vacuum hose(s) and rev the engine until it will not longer advance centrifically no matter how much more gas you give it and make that point to be 28º BTDC.
Do it a couple of times so that you are confident all of the centrifical advance has been accounted for.
Let it loaf back to idle and plug in the vacuum hose. Adjust idle speed to the correct spec. Note the initial timing but don't change it. Go for a ride and report back your findings. |
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ac78 Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2008 Posts: 330 Location: Nashville
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 12:07 pm Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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Randy in Maine wrote: |
Why are you at 5º ATDC? |
I haven't touched the distributor. That's just where the mark shows and I do feel confident that the paint is on TDB.
I felt I needed to get my vacuum straight first. I want to do one thing and then go to the next so I know what fixed the issue. Now that I am sure I don't have a vacuum leak(although I do think its still low) I was going to adjust the timing to 7.5 BTDC hose on as Bentley shows.
I'll report back in a few. _________________ 78 Westy 2.0l hydr. FI
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ac78 Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2008 Posts: 330 Location: Nashville
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 12:15 pm Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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Randy in Maine wrote: |
Why are you at 5º ATDC?
Remove the vacuum hose(s) and rev the engine until it will not longer advance centrifically no matter how much more gas you give it and make that point to be 28º BTDC.
You want me to lock in the hose off 28 BTDC?
Do it a couple of times so that you are confident all of the centrifical advance has been accounted for.
Let it loaf back to idle and plug in the vacuum hose. Adjust idle speed to the correct spec. Note the initial timing but don't change it.
[color=green]OJust make a note of hose on timing?color]
Go for a ride and report back your findings. |
_________________ 78 Westy 2.0l hydr. FI
VW Campmobile
For people who believe a family's
car should be it's castle !
Last edited by ac78 on Thu Apr 14, 2016 12:17 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 12:17 pm Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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I assume you own a real timing light. You have to take the vacuum advance out of the equation by removing the hose. rev the engine up until the timing light no longer advance with additional gas you give the engine. Make that point to be the 28º BTDC.
Plug in the vacuum hose and set the idle speed to the correct 850 RPMs. Note the initial timing. It should be close to 7.5º BTDC, but don't change it. Just note it.
Humor me and confirm the timing mark is this one as described by Ratwell....
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FindTimingMark.html
The only mark you would ever make on the fan is for something like this "ll" 180º from the TDC mark for Bottom Dead Center (useful in adjusting valves).
This one below is BDC at 10º ATDC.
Last edited by Randy in Maine on Thu Apr 14, 2016 12:21 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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ac78 Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2008 Posts: 330 Location: Nashville
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 12:19 pm Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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Randy in Maine wrote: |
Humor me and confirm the timing mark is this one as described by Ratwell....
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FindTimingMark.html
The only mark you would ever make on the fan is for something like this "ll" 180º from the TDC mark for Bottom Dead Center (useful in adjusting valves).
This one below is BDC at 10º ATDC.
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Ok. I'll get that info for you.
Thanks! _________________ 78 Westy 2.0l hydr. FI
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SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 12:46 pm Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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I am having trouble following the question but would like to throw 2 cents in here just in case it hasn't been covered.
There are usually two sources of vacuum for devices on these engines.
1) Plenum. This is the vacuum that is on the intake valve side of the throttle body. It is the vacuum that the valves see.
2) S-boot side of throttle body. This source varies wildly. When the throttle plate is closed on decel or at idle it would be almost no vacuum. As the throttle plate is opened the air begins to rush into the plenum. The more the plate is opened the closer the plenum and S-boot side get to being the same. At low RPM and high loads the vacuum would be close to almost nothing. At high RPM's and light load the S-boot side would be very high - maybe 16 - 20 inches.
The devices that need to follow the vacuum the engine sees are hooked to the plenum side. These are the deceleration valve and the Fuel Pressure regulator. The devices that need to follow engine load hook up to the S-boot side. These are the EEC as it only opens when the engine is under load - essentially when the fuel vapor can be burned without greatly affecting the mixture, and the distributor, which changes its advance to match the engine load. The brake booster hooks directly to the plenum for safety reasons.
Many things can affect the vacuum at each of these sources. On the S-boot side for example, a broken S-boot would greatly affect vacuum there at idle and mixtures at all RPM. If the PCV valve is leaky along with a loose valve cover or oil filler cap it can inject significant air into the S-boot that has the same effect as a broken S-boot. _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
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ac78 Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2008 Posts: 330 Location: Nashville
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 12:54 pm Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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Randy in Maine wrote: |
I assume you own a real timing light. You have to take the vacuum advance out of the equation by removing the hose. rev the engine up until the timing light no longer advance with additional gas you give the engine. Make that point to be the 28º BTDC.
Plug in the vacuum hose and set the idle speed to the correct 850 RPMs. Note the initial timing. It should be close to 7.5º BTDC, but don't change it. Just note it.
Humor me and confirm the timing mark is this one as described by Ratwell....
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FindTimingMark.html
The only mark you would ever make on the fan is for something like this "ll" 180º from the TDC mark for Bottom Dead Center (useful in adjusting valves).
This one below is BDC at 10º ATDC.
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Mine was actually lined up like Ratwells pic. I have a white paint mark on that 42mm CW spot and at 180º from it, I have another white mark with a red stripe next to it.
I also wanted to mention that the white dot is at 0 when the rotor is facing #1 spark plug wire. _________________ 78 Westy 2.0l hydr. FI
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Randy in Maine Samba Member
Joined: August 03, 2003 Posts: 34890 Location: The Beach
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 1:03 pm Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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Time it as I suggested and then take it for a ride. Report back. |
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ac78 Samba Member
Joined: March 18, 2008 Posts: 330 Location: Nashville
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 2:59 pm Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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Randy in Maine wrote: |
Time it as I suggested and then take it for a ride. Report back. |
I have an Innova 3551 timing light and actron CP7677 for dwell, rpm and ohms that I am using for my troubleshooting. Please let me know if these are not adequate.
With the hose off, I set the timing to 28 BTDC and set the idle at 900. Then went out for a ride. It seemed to be pretty good power but once I leveled out at 35 mph in 3rd gear and held it there, it would sputter. To be honest it didn't feel much different than before.
The hose on idle timing was at 6 BTDC after setting at 28 BTDC with hose off. _________________ 78 Westy 2.0l hydr. FI
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SGKent Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2007 Posts: 41031 Location: Citrus Heights CA (Near Sacramento)
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 3:11 pm Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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ac78 wrote: |
Randy in Maine wrote: |
Time it as I suggested and then take it for a ride. Report back. |
I have an Innova 3551 timing light and actron CP7677 for dwell, rpm and ohms that I am using for my troubleshooting. Please let me know if these are not adequate.
With the hose off, I set the timing to 28 BTDC and set the idle at 900. Then went out for a ride. It seemed to be pretty good power but once I leveled out at 35 mph in 3rd gear and held it there, it would sputter. To be honest it didn't feel much different than before.
The hose on idle timing was at 6 BTDC after setting at 28 BTDC with hose off. |
6 to 7 BTDC at idle with 28 degrees full in is normal. If you time at factory it will come in at 32 degrees at full in but head temps will rise. You are slightly detuning it but not enough to feel the loss - although head temps will fall by the detuning. These run too hot and that is why we detune a little. _________________ “Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin |
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Wildthings Samba Member
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Posted: Thu Apr 14, 2016 4:35 pm Post subject: Re: Vacuum/Timing questions |
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The ported vacuum connection for the vacuum advance will not have vacuum at base idle, but should have vacuum if you rev the engine a bit. I guess the port in the throttle body could be clogged with something, but haven't experienced it myself. Can you suck through the vacuum advance hose with it attached to the throttle body, if not remove the throttle body then try blowing through the port both ways with compressed air. |
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