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vwwestyman Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2004 Posts: 5680 Location: Manhattan, Kansas, USA
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Posted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 10:43 pm Post subject: Re: Stock Headliner? |
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BayCreamPuff wrote: |
vwwestyman wrote: |
That pic isn't super clear-is the power wire simply hidden under the wire where you have labeled it "Ground switch"? Or is the power wire all the way on the other end of the LED strip? |
I can see how that would be confusing. In my harness, the power runs through that switch housing as well. but isn't "switched".
If you aren't hooking it up to the switch in the sliding door, then all you need is to add a switch between the power or ground wire from the LED controller box. |
Great! Thanks for the clarification! Can't wait to play with this, but I gotta wait til it warms up a bit. _________________ Dave Cook
President, Wild Westerner Club
1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing |
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carp442 Samba Member
Joined: October 16, 2013 Posts: 20 Location: fenandina beach
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Posted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 6:03 pm Post subject: Re: Stock Headliner? |
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My 72 has the "whitewashed" birch plywood look, but it seems like its just dried up clearcoat making it white/hazy. If i rub it, the chalky residue falls off in my face to reveal birch plywood.
I also have a 70 riv tintop with smooth painted white boards above the whole rear, but has perforated / suspended vinyl headliner with bows only above the cab.
Theres a britte plastic strip between the two, very much like a headliner retainer strip on a 70 chevelle or gto. _________________ '68 manx M2285. Registry 313
'68 ABS tow'd
'69 Bushwhacker SS
'69 Deserter series one
'69 Berry mini T (three!) one original uncut.
'69 Glitterbug. mobile Alabama mfg tags.
'71 Joe Poty sand rover
72 westfalia "Wenzel"
Fiber-jet cobra -year unknown
Two manx clones.
'74 Bradley GT
76 Allison Daytona deluxe touring. |
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vwwestyman Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2004 Posts: 5680 Location: Manhattan, Kansas, USA
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Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 8:10 am Post subject: Re: Stock Headliner? |
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BayCreamPuff wrote: |
vwwestyman wrote: |
That pic isn't super clear-is the power wire simply hidden under the wire where you have labeled it "Ground switch"? Or is the power wire all the way on the other end of the LED strip? |
I can see how that would be confusing. In my harness, the power runs through that switch housing as well. but isn't "switched".
If you aren't hooking it up to the switch in the sliding door, then all you need is to add a switch between the power or ground wire from the LED controller box. |
I'm thinking I may start playing with this project today. I kinda want a project that is just fun to do.
So I'm thinking that I will take the power from the wire that is currently powering the florescent light. Easy enough.
Then I'll want an option to have them turn on/off via the door switches, but also an option to turn them on/off via a regular switch.
I'm not sure I can accomplish this with just an on/off switch, right? I was originally thinking that I'd simply run one ground up to the wire in the dome light that comes from the door switches, but I wouldn't be able to keep the LEDs from coming on by simply turning off the dome light, if I wanted to, without using the remote.
Maybe a 3-position rocker switch would be the best bet, one end connecting the ground to the dome light, one to a straight ground, and off.
OR, would it work if I instead attach the LED ground to the bulb side of the dome light switch? Then when the dome light is turned to door control mode, the LEDs would turn on with the door. However, if turned the LEDs on via a switch but didn't want the dome light on, wouldn't this setup cause the dome light to come on by providing a ground through the switch? Would a diode cure this?
Either way, I'll need to figure out where I want to mount the rocker switch. I think I'm thinking maybe in the plastic panel just in front of the closet edge, that way it can easily be reached from the bed, and it would be relatively out of sight. Or maybe the back edge of the panel that is above the sink. Then it could be reached from the bed pretty easily or the sink area.
Also need to figure out where I want the IR "eye" for the remote to hang. Placing the controller on top of the closet and just having the eye be there is easiest. But perhaps if it were poking out from the dome light it would be unobtrusive and a little more centralized.
Thoughts anyone? _________________ Dave Cook
President, Wild Westerner Club
1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing |
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busdaddy Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 51057 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 9:16 am Post subject: Re: Stock Headliner? |
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I'd go with the 3 position switch (on/off/on), one leg grounded by the door switch and the other to a body ground near the switch. If you can't find a 3 position switch you'll need a second 2 position one to select off/on on top of the one that selects if it's controlled by the door or just on all the time. _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
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vwwestyman Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2004 Posts: 5680 Location: Manhattan, Kansas, USA
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Posted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 7:53 pm Post subject: Re: Stock Headliner? |
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Got the lights in and (primarily) working today!
It seems that no FLAPS in my town carries a regular on-off-on switch so I had to order one on Amazon. For now the lights are just on with the dome switches.
I decided that the switch will be mounted over the sink. Two reasons. First, that is centrally-located enough that it is reachable from about anywhere in the bus. Second, there is a pre-existing cut out for the backside of the switch to fit.
Couple tips for others in the future: if you want to use the connectors as BayCreamPuff suggests, you'll want to plan to extend the LED strip into the front headliner area, as it is too bulky to fit behind the panels. I had to solder the wires onto the end of the strip on the one side, because I cut the strip right at the edge of where the plastic meets the front headliner. No big deal. I learned for the other side.
Once it was all put back together, I noticed that the red portion of three of the LEDs doesn't work! That is frustrating, but it is right in the spot I have to take the panel off to install the switch, so not the end of the world. I have a few inches of LED strip I can solder in to replace them.
My power comes from the supply for the florescent light. I just tucked the wires up in the channel and used some white duct tape to hold them in place.
The power adapter and controller are just sitting on the top of the closet.
Sorry I didn't end up taking as many pics as I intended.
I never realized how close the panels were to the body, I guess I assumed it was mostly open.
With a couple pieces of plastic covers, it was easy to extend the power wire.
Dang! Those are bright!
_________________ Dave Cook
President, Wild Westerner Club
1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing |
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