Engine lid adjustment 1962 Sedan

[Harris]

I need a source on how to correctly adjust the engine lid on a '62 so that is fits does not bind and locks correctly?

Thanks lou

[glutamodo]

I'd love to give you a specific procedure.... but I've had mixed results over the years. I've seen some threads over the years that say much the same. Part of the problem is how old these are. Sometimes it depends on the lid itself has ever had any damage. Then there's the hinges, and the hinge mounting brackets on the body, are those undamaged as well?

I switched to a convertible lid on my 62 several years ago and I never did get it to fit nor latch like the stock one (the original, which I still have) did, no matter how much I shifted the hinge mounts forward/back and the hinges up/down. Those are the only real adjustments, a mixture of those. Beyond that, strategic bending of the hinge mounts might help.
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Andy T.


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[Harris]

Thanks Andy,

My brackets and lid are not damaged. Took the lid and brackets off as I had broken a bolt . I assume there is no right or left bracket so as you say just "play with adjustment"

Grandson and I put the lid and spring on and the lid was a little too far to the left and too large a gap at top. Unfortunately there are no shops around that know how to get it right. The video I found for adjustment was on an earlier car. It was close to correct when I broke the bolt, so I'm doing something wrong. Thanks for the reply

Lou

[pantone149]

I fought with the same adjustments as you until I gave up and asked an old time VW mechanic to set things straight. He unlocked the latch and lifted the lid near horizontal. Then he grabbed the sides of the lid and twisted, essentially deforming the metal slightly. It's been closing and locking ever since.

[Harris]

[Anduril]

I did the same thing. Every time I loosened and tightened it seemed like the right side was down a bit further than the left. If I adjusted it either way to try to compensate as I closed I could see that the lid would scrape against the body.

Out of the blue the idea to just open it slightly and pull it to the right side and do the "reform adjustment". It has been perfect ever since.

[Harris]

[TinCanFab]

I like to make more adjustment by making all the slotted holes in the brackets longer. If that doesn't help, bolt them up snugly and pull on them with a broom handle or lightly tap it with a rubber mallet, depending on whether you need more or less gap at the top of the lid. I go for the tightest and even fit at the top of the lid right before the lid rubs the vent panel. The last thing you want is getting it all fairly close, then finding the bottom of the lid hits the bumper! Once the big hook brackets are the correct shape, THEN once you make your up/down and in/out adjustments, you should be done. If it still won't fit right, then I would pull/push on the upper corners of the lid.

Obviously, before you even start, make sure the decklid hinges and spring bracket have no broken welds or tearing metal. With the decid completely removed, put the lid tightly against the body to make sure it has the proper curve in it still.

In my experience, the big hook shaped bracket is the culprit. They bend pretty easily and it only takes a tiny bend to throw everything way off. I've been working on my decklid fit and have it really close. Now that I've got it where it needs to be, I see a new problem- the vent metal under the window has been slightly pushed down at the bottom lip. Someone must have dropped something on it at one point. So, make sure all your body components that are NOT adjustable, are correct or you'll never get it perfect.
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[Harris]

I'm seeing that Glutamodo and Roachdub58 suggest that the brackets may be slightly bent over the years and that may be the problem. My clearance at the top of the lid is almost 1/2 inch installed now and it does not latch. I'm at the the top on the bolt slot so no more there. Question: how and where do you bend the big C brackets. I know they have to be close on both slightly and I can measure that. Do I bend up or up and back and with what do I do this? I can enlarge the oblong hoes but rather not. Photos attached. Can always buy more at the Bug Barn, but would like to use these.

Lou

[stale air]

One of the other things that leads to the decklid gaps being out of wack and you not being able to adjust them out is the apron. Over the years from people letting the lid slam onto the apron it acutually makes the apron flatten out some, causing the lid to gap at the top.
Harris if you were to take your hand on pull upward on the bottom of your apron, with your lid closed, you will more than likely see the gap close at the top.
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[Harris]

[Harris]

[quote="roachdub58"]I like to make more adjustment by making all the slotted holes in the brackets longer.

If that doesn't help, bolt them up snugly and pull on them with a broom handle or lightly tap it with a rubber mallet, depending on whether you need more or less gap at the top of the lid.

Not understanding the broom handle idea. Can you explain further? Bolt what up? Sorry I'm old.

lou

[rcooled]

I had similar issues with the lid on my '63. It had a large gap at the top like yours and also scraped the body at the upper corners. Adjustments alone wouldn't get it to fit right, so I had to massage things a bit.

For the edges, I set the lid on the ground resting on three pieces of 2x4 lumber...one at each top corner and one at the bottom. I then applied force by hand to the top edge, essentially flattening the curve a little bit. The lid is quite flexible and it doesn't take much of a push to have an effect.

To close up the gap at the top, I took a large rubber mallet and gave each hinge bracket a couple of good whacks. This bent them inward just a little, and in the process, moved the lid up a bit and reduced the width of the gap at the top. This also moved the latching hook up a bit allowing it to fully engage the bracket on the apron. Make sure the brackets are firmly fastened to the body before you try this.

I had to remove and re-install the lid several times to check the fit and do some extra tweaking, but it fits perfectly now and latches securely.
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[Harris]

Thanks,

I'm not that good with a rubber mallet. I do think I could at this point throw a stick of dynamite in it in a secluded area and watch it go up engine lid and all. But I won't. Likely will try extending the screw slots. Did a small amount on the slots and gained quite a bit. If that does work will try the rubber hammer--then maybe the dynamite or lighted jet fuel.

Thanks for the rubber hammer idea.

Lou

[The Volkswagen Ranch]

I just finished FINALLY getting the gap even, and looking like it should on my black 64 vert. I had to replace both of my supports as they were bent, twisted and “sagging” . I found a good set of used supports, used all new bolts and washers ( no washers before) and sourced the missing bracket support plates from Joe Benco Enterprises. The hinges were not bent. Even with the good replacement supports and new hardware, could not get the gap at the top right. Then read a post about putting a washer under the rear bolt of the support bracket( closest to the front of the car) . This ads more of an angle to the support bracket, forcing the decklid “up” and closing the gap at the top of the decklid. Don’t even think of asking me how long it took , but to make a very long story short, you have to adjust the supports by 1/32” at a time , going from one to the other and, it finally gets even ! Many thanks to all of the posts on this subject . Hope this helps someone!
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1963 Convertible (Lizzie) and 1964 Convertible (Patience) 1976 Westfalia (Winnie)

[Harris]

Thank you so much for the info. Will try it

Lou

[Helfen]

[The Volkswagen Ranch]

Lou, remember... it is a VERY tedious process. Every change you make on one side affects the other , which is why I ended up making such small adjustments. My gap on the driver’s side started at 1/2”, and the passenger side a much better ( but still too wide) 3/8”. When finally done, is now 1/8” across the top and side to side. Make sure you use the blue painter’s tape across the top on both the body and decklid edges as well as all corners . After you “juggle” it back and forth for a few hours ( !) you will see what I mean . And walk away for a while like I did when frustrated to the max. And , Glutamondo .... I watched the whole video... thanks! Again , nothing like factory fresh parts!
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1963 Convertible (Lizzie) and 1964 Convertible (Patience) 1976 Westfalia (Winnie)

[The Volkswagen Ranch]

Lou, just took another look of the pic of your brackets. They are both bent down like my originals were. You may consider getting a good “un-bent “ pair of replacements from the Bug Barn. I will see if I can figure out a way to get my pics of before, after, and during in the gallery. When I compared the difference in angle of my originals to my replacement supports it was staggering. It would have taken a whole lot of bending to get my originals even close to the replacement supports, and then I had to use the thick washer under the rear bolt to get them right.... as they too had “aged” and were ok to the eye, but still not right.
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1963 Convertible (Lizzie) and 1964 Convertible (Patience) 1976 Westfalia (Winnie)

[The Volkswagen Ranch]

Lou, I uploaded some of my pics to the gallery, and sent you a pm. Bob
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1963 Convertible (Lizzie) and 1964 Convertible (Patience) 1976 Westfalia (Winnie)