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jdbs3
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:29 pm    Post subject: Whining noise from rear Reply with quote

1990 Vanagon, original transmission, ~140K miles

Just had the rear wheel bearing replaced by my independent (VW knowledgeable) mechanic. With the axles removed, he also cleaned the CV joints, and replaced the transmission drive flange seals that were leaking and the drive flange cap seal. He also topped off the transmission fluid.

Now (possibly coincidentally) I am hearing a steady whining noise coming from the rear of the van. I think it is present in all gears, but best heard once the van is cruising in 4th gear.

I had my mechanic listen to it. He felt it was coming from the gear box and was the differential bearings. He also noted that this was a typical sound for van transmissions as they age, and that it was not a problem or sign that the transmission was going bad.

However, I don't recall ever hearing this type of noise on either my original 1984 water box, and, prior to the wheel bearing work, this one.

I realize you can't diagnose a sound from this write-up, but assume it is a noise coming from the gear box, do you agree with my mechanics comments?

Is there possibly something else I should have him check out?

Not much to go on, but hopefully someone will have some insight into this.

Thanks
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Whining noise from rear Reply with quote

Do you have kids?
-d
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jberger
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Whining noise from rear Reply with quote

It is possible that your mechanic did not reinstall the differential carrier bearing adjusters correctly when he replaced the seals. That would definitely change the preload and backlash of the pinion\ring gears.. Perhaps ask him to recount how he removed and reinstalled these.
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Whining noise from rear Reply with quote

A worn ring and pinion will make that sound under load and lessen with your foot off the pedal.

R&Ps are one of the most expensive parts of the transmission.

Noise means it is time to start saving for a rebuild with new parts.
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 1:35 pm    Post subject: Re: Whining noise from rear Reply with quote

Pinion bearing
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 1:07 pm    Post subject: Re: Whining noise from rear Reply with quote

Thanks for the input. An update …

Manual transmission.

It is more like a whirling (rotational) sound, only heard when the van is in motion, and best heard after the van is at cursing speed (4th gear).

While cruising and I put the van in neutral, the noise is still there.

It increases in pitch with speed, and decreases in pitch when slowing down.

Quote:
It is possible that your mechanic did not reinstall the differential carrier bearing adjusters correctly when he replaced the seals.


If left as is, will this harm the transmission?

Quote:
A worn ring and pinion will make that sound under load and lessen with your foot off the pedal.


Seems unusual that it happened all of a sudden. Wouldn't this be something that would start and increase in pitch over time?

My thanks in advance for your follow-up.
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 1:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Whining noise from rear Reply with quote

my brother once told me he had an odd noise only on turns leaving my house late one night.
when he got to his place my cat popped it's head up behind the back seat.
he drove it back, I told him he coulda kept her the night..
raoul mitgong wrote:
Do you have kids?
-d

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jberger
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 1:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Whining noise from rear Reply with quote

jdbs3 wrote:
Thanks for the input. An update …

Manual transmission.

It is more like a whirling (rotational) sound, only heard when the van is in motion, and best heard after the van is at cursing speed (4th gear).

While cruising and I put the van in neutral, the noise is still there.

It increases in pitch with speed, and decreases in pitch when slowing down.

Quote:
It is possible that your mechanic did not reinstall the differential carrier bearing adjusters correctly when he replaced the seals.


If left as is, will this harm the transmission?

Quote:
A worn ring and pinion will make that sound under load and lessen with your foot off the pedal.


Seems unusual that it happened all of a sudden. Wouldn't this be something that would start and increase in pitch over time?

My thanks in advance for your follow-up.


I would absolutely go back to the mechanic and discuss his process of removing and reinstalling the adjusters. a 1\4 turn off and you will get noise from your differential.. which is exactly what you are experiencing. And yes it will cause damage if left as is. worse case scenario the transaxle will have to be pulled to properly set up the diff again.. perhaps he spaced it though and just didn't reset the adjusters to his scribed marks and notes and can correct things in 45min.
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jdbs3
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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 5:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Whining noise from rear Reply with quote

jberger,

Quote:
worse case scenario the transaxle will have to be pulled to properly set up the diff again.. perhaps he spaced it though and just didn't reset the adjusters to his scribed marks and notes and can correct things in 45min.


Dumb question of the night, and possibly too involved to get feedback, but ..

If there are scribe marks, then great, just reset the adjusters.

But if there are no scribe marks, then is the only way to properly set up the diff again, to pull the transaxle? And is there a way to verify it is fixed, other than after the fact seeing the sound is gone once it is put back together?

Thanks again!
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jberger
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 8:10 am    Post subject: Re: Whining noise from rear Reply with quote

There would be no external way to verify that it was corrected, or if that is even the problem. Only the shop\tech knows how he did the repair. In order to change the inner and outer seals on the adjuster, they have to be removed. If I was doing this job I would use a chisel to mark both the magnesium case and the aluminum adjuster. I would also use a depth micrometer to measure the inset of the adjuster and scribe it on the aluminum as well. This way I can visually verify that my marks line up and on the proper revolution. It is a fairly easy task.. unless you don't measure and mark first.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 9:52 am    Post subject: Re: Whining noise from rear Reply with quote

jdbs3 wrote:
jberger,

Quote:
worse case scenario the transaxle will have to be pulled to properly set up the diff again.. perhaps he spaced it though and just didn't reset the adjusters to his scribed marks and notes and can correct things in 45min.


Dumb question of the night, and possibly too involved to get feedback, but ..

If there are scribe marks, then great, just reset the adjusters.

But if there are no scribe marks, then is the only way to properly set up the diff again, to pull the transaxle? And is there a way to verify it is fixed, other than after the fact seeing the sound is gone once it is put back together?


Not a dumb question and you are on it.

If there are no scribe marks, you defn' had the wong mechanic and could be "screwed" so to speak. This is incompetence (to the specific task). If you act soon possibly an experienced mechanic can look for other indications in the dirt/grime and see if they have been returned to the original position.

Maybe there are markings and its a whole revolution "loose"? I'm not experienced in this but kinda know what he's referring to. Maybe JB will come back to your question. It would br great if it can be restored without removing the transaxle and sending it off to a trans repair shop. I suspect he will attempt this, but does he truly understand? A very important adjustment has been disturbed and requires a regimented procedure to reset.

If the adjustment has been truly "lost" This will be a bummer for you and will cost your mechanic half a day and hundreds of $$ sending it out to a trans shop, possibly not something he will jump to accept. Depends on the mechanic. If an adjuster was 1 revolution off it would surely make noticeable increase in speed-related rear-end noise.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 2:07 pm    Post subject: Update Reply with quote

An update …

I had watch my mechanic do all of this work; I’ve a good recall of what was done, but, not being a mechanic, don’t necessarily know all the part names, etc. that were touched/replaced. But with the part numbers, Bentley and another diagram on getvwparts.com, I was able to recall and see what was replaced.

I also stopped by to talk with my mechanic this afternoon. He noted that he did not take out or move the differential carrier bearing adjuster rings. One of them moved slightly when installing parts. He readjusted it based on the existing dirt marks. Looking at Bentley, I agree, he did not touch the adjusting rings.

The 2 parts that were replaced replaced were:

- 091 301 189 - Drive Axle Flange Seal that seals the drive axle flange on the transaxle. Looking at Bentley and a diagram on getvwparts.com, this is the seal that sits between the untouched adjusting ring and the lock ring for the adjuster, aka drive axle flange plastic cover, part #: 091 301 197.

- 002 517 289A Drive Axle Flange Cap

So it was not the adjusters that caused this problem.

Possibly insyncro is correct - a worn ring and pinion. It is just strange that the day before the shop work, there was no noise; the day after there is the whirring noise. Arg! I’m open to any other theories on the timing of this noise.

The plan going forward is to:

1. Change the transmission fluid with Redline MT 90; check for containments in the old fluid. The last time it was changed was in Nov-02 at about 98K miles, or ~40K miles ago (a best guess estimate).

2. While the van is up on the lift, check to see if there is any excessive play in the bearings behind the drive flange.

If the noise is still there, then since it is coincident with the turning of the wheels, and not the gear shaft, my mechanic said it would be either the pinion bearing or carrier bearing. While there is no way of knowing which, nor how long it will last, my mechanic felt it could be as much as another 30 – 40K miles. Given my yearly driving, that could be another 10 years.

A few questions:

- Is Redline MT-90 75W90 GL-4 the best synthetic to use?

- Any comments or questions on my update? Or any other theories on the timing of this noise?

- Any other suggestions on what I should have my mechanic do? I like to be as knowledgeable as I can when I have work done on the van.

Thanks

btw - My mechanic has worked on VW's, since at least 1993; he worked for a number of years at a VW dealership before starting his own business working on VWs, etc. I've watched every bit of work he has done on the van in the last 11 years. He is a very competent mechanic and very thorough in his approach.

Sodo, jberger, I'd be interested in your comments after reading this update.

thanks
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 2:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Whining noise from rear Reply with quote

You can inspect the R&P by removing the bellhousing...OR if you have a digital boroscope you can drain the fluid and snake it up into the area behind the bellhousing without removing it.

Removing the bhousing gives a much better view, but if the R&P is bad, it will show it to a trained eye.

Just trying to help.
I know most don't have fancy tools.

Others have pointed the finger at bearings.
They could also be a problem.

Bottom line, opening up the trans will be the best bet to explore it further and than remedy what is found.

Sorry for the not so great news, again, trying to help the situation.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 3:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Whining noise from rear Reply with quote

Quote:
I also stopped by to talk with my mechanic this afternoon. He noted that he did not take out or move the differential carrier bearing adjuster rings. One of them moved slightly when installing parts. He readjusted it based on the existing dirt marks. Looking at Bentley, I agree, he did not touch the adjusting rings.


I don't understand this statement.. he moved the adjuster but didn't move the adjuster?

My experience has been that the drive flange seal is impossible to install properly with the adjuster in the transaxle and without a press. Maybe that is just me. They are a bear to remove and are SUPER tight going back in. It is possible that your diff carrier bearings are worn to the point that the new seals are being ovaled by their movement and causing noise. Or a seal was distorted during install and is applying undue pressure to the drive flange lip... If I knew the sound of my van and had someone work on it only to receive it back with a new sound.. especially related to actual work that was done.. I'd want to get to the bottom of it. Upsetting the bearing preload and diff back lash WILL make noises related to wheel speed. If those things were not monkeyed with then look elsewhere.. are your new seals leaking again..? Maybe there is debris inside the trailing arm rubbing the CV joint.. But your description of noise on power and cruise, off on decel\coast..
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 3:38 pm    Post subject: Re: Whining noise from rear Reply with quote

jberger wrote:
Quote:
I also stopped by to talk with my mechanic this afternoon. He noted that he did not take out or move the differential carrier bearing adjuster rings. One of them moved slightly when installing parts. He readjusted it based on the existing dirt marks. Looking at Bentley, I agree, he did not touch the adjusting rings.


I don't understand this statement.. he moved the adjuster but didn't move the adjuster?

My experience has been that the drive flange seal is impossible to install properly with the adjuster in the transaxle and without a press. Maybe that is just me. They are a bear to remove and are SUPER tight going back in. It is possible that your diff carrier bearings are worn to the point that the new seals are being ovaled by their movement and causing noise. Or a seal was distorted during install and is applying undue pressure to the drive flange lip... If I knew the sound of my van and had someone work on it only to receive it back with a new sound.. especially related to actual work that was done.. I'd want to get to the bottom of it. Upsetting the bearing preload and diff back lash WILL make noises related to wheel speed. If those things were not monkeyed with then look elsewhere.. are your new seals leaking again..? Maybe there is debris inside the trailing arm rubbing the CV joint.. But your description of noise on power and cruise, off on decel\coast..


Agreed.
Some investigation is needed.
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 08, 2016 10:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Update Reply with quote

jdbs3 wrote:
Sodo, jberger, I'd be interested in your comments after reading this update.


I'm about tapped out. The condition of the oil you drain out will tell some tales. I don't think a quiet trans can poop out clean fluid, but think of this. If it IS clean then the increased noise may be the mechanic's error NOT a worn out component.

You are correct regarding the sound, if its one sound --- independent of the gear you're in or engine RPM --- then it's wheel bearings, axles, differential carrier bearing, R&P, pinion bearing or pinion shaft. Changing the carrier bearing adjustment can certainly change the sound without soiling your oil (yet). It's certainly possible that a competent mechanic could do it right. Just strange that he messed with it and now there's a sound. And had to reset it by the dirt. It should not need to be reset, it should have been correct period. As I wrote,,,, if he DID mess it up there's a several hundred $$ transaxle pro adjustment,,,, that is HIS responsibility.

You seem to have a good relationship with him I hope you are not being snowed and will leave it at that. I hate that ---- it's your call and you don't want to ruin a good relationship just cuz some guy on the internet never met your mechanic. Oil inspection is a good next step. Drain it with the front wheels 9" higher than the rear, post pics and ask questions about it. And pics of the magnetic drain plug (be careful with the hairdo).

I have read on several occasions that Redline is OK for transmissions but has fallen out of favor for transaxles due to the hypoid gear (the ring&pinion) running in the same oil as the transmission. Pretty sure rebuilders are recommending against it. Personally I'd put $14.99 FLAPs GL-5 in it, run it 500 miles, flush and then run a better oil, but I have been traumatized by contaminated oil.

Heres a decent deal, Kendall, you can change it twice now and once again down the road for $73.
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 11, 2016 1:36 pm    Post subject: suggested plans going forward ... Reply with quote

Thank you again to all for your excellent feedback. Hopefully, others can benefit from this ongoing dialogue. And apologies for the length of my reply. I’m trying to assure I provide as much information as possible.

I’ve spent the last few days reading Bentley, reading notes files, and watching youtube, trying to learn as much as I can. Please correct me if any of the following is incorrect or makes no sense.

Thanks!

Quote:
I also stopped by to talk with my mechanic this afternoon. He noted that he did not take out or move the differential carrier bearing adjuster rings. One of them moved slightly when installing parts. He readjusted it based on the existing dirt marks. Looking at Bentley, I agree, he did not touch the adjusting rings.

Quote:
I don't understand this statement.. he moved the adjuster but didn't move the adjuster?


Sorry, poor wording on my part. He did not remove either of the adjusters. However, when removing the drive axle flange seals, one of the adjusters moved slightly. He re-positioned it based on the dirt marks.

To other recent feedback:

Quote:
I have read on several occasions that Redline is OK for transmissions but has fallen out of favor for transaxles


Interesting. After reading this and reviewing a number of threads, I decided to call AA Transaxle and German Transaxle to see what they recommended.

AA Transaxle recommend any name brand GL-4 oil (Note: I spoke to the person who answered the phone; not a mechanic or technical person).

At German Transaxle, I spoke with the mechanic who noted he used to use Redline MT90. However, at some point, he started to encounter problems with it that was costing him real money on warranty service. He tried switching syncro vendors thinking that might be the cause, but to no avail. After he spoke with Redline, he found out they had reformulated it just prior to when he started to encounter problems. He now uses BG Syncro Shift II.

From the BG Products web site:
Quote:
BG Syncro Shift® II Full Synthetic Gear Lubricant is specially formulated for manual transmissions, trans-axles and transfer cases. It is a full synthetic API GL-4 gear lubricant blended to SAE 75W-80 viscosity to provide unmatched film strength and wear protection.


Q: Anyone have experience using BG Syncro Shift II?

Based on the feedback I’ve received, below are the steps I am considering. I’d appreciate any feedback on these prior to my discussing them with my mechanic on Monday. I’ve highlighted questions in red.

Step 1. Before considering transaxle components, inspect other potential culprits including the wheel bearings, axles, and CV joints.

As noted, this whirring noise started immediately after the recent van work; all work was done on both sides. The rear wheel bearings were replaced with new FAG bearings and seals, the CV joints were removed from the axle, the axle inspected, the CV joints washed and re-greased, the CV boots (no tears) cleaned out and repacked.

The CV joints on the right side showed some galling. However, my mechanic felt that with their being reconditioned (i.e. cleaned and re-packed), that they would be good for another 30 – 40K miles.

Q: Could any of these components be the culprit??

Quote:
[jberger] … are your new seals leaking again..? Maybe there is debris inside the trailing arm rubbing the CV joint.


Inspect the seals for leakage. Inspect the trailing arm for debris.

Step 2. Inspect what can be inspected without removing and opening up the transaxle.

Quote:
[jberger] It is possible that your diff carrier bearings are worn to the point that the new seals are being ovaled by their movement and causing noise. Or a seal was distorted during install and is applying undue pressure to the drive flange lip.


Inspect the new seals.

[From German Transaxle] Inspect the carrier bearing and race. He noted the drive axle flange seal is a tapered seal. If it was pounded back in rather than pressed back in, it could result in pounding the rollers against the steel race. With older bearings this could result in damage to the rollers.

So remove the CV joint, lock ring and drive axle flange seal. Mark the adjusting ring (091 301 183) position and remove it and the associated o-ring (002 301 185a) to inspect the carrier bearing and race. NOTE to myself: I need to have 2 new o-rings available for reassembly.

Q: A lack of knowledge here. If the differential carrier bearings are damaged, can they be replaced without removing the transaxle from the van, AND without any adjustment to the bearing preload and diff backlash?


Quote:
[jberger] Upsetting the bearing preload and diff back lash WILL make noises related to wheel speed.


Q: If I’m correct, this would be caused by a change in position of the adjuster ring. if an adjuster ring was unintentionally moved in the process, but not marked, is there any way to adjust it to its proper position without removing the transaxle?


Quote:
[insyncro] Inspect the ring and pinion. Drain some fluid and use a digital boroscope. Snake it up behind the bellhousing without removing it.


Inspect them.

And one other though I had - clean the outside of the transmission breathing hole. Not sure this would cause it, but it would not hurt.

Quote:
[sodo] Oil inspection is a good next step.


If the oil is clean and the source of the noise has not been found, then it would seem to be a problem internal to the transaxle. If the oil is dirty with bits of metal in it, then ditto.

Q: Is there any value in changing the transmission oil if I’m only going to have to move on to Step 3 and have the transmission removed and opened up? No sense absorbing this cost twice.

Step 3. Only after steps 1 and 2 found nothing, look at removing and opening up the transaxle.

Quote:
[sodo] … then its … R&P, pinion bearing or pinion shaft. Changing the carrier bearing adjustment can certainly change the sound …


Q: Am I correct that if it is any of these, then the transmission needs to be removed and opened up? If so, is this best done by a specialty shop like German Transaxle? My guess is yes for the opening it up part.

Quote:
[Sodo] It's certainly possible that a competent mechanic could do it right. Just strange that he messed with it and now there's a sound. And had to reset it by the dirt. It should not need to be reset, it should have been correct period. As I wrote,,,, if he DID mess it up there's a several hundred $$ transaxle pro adjustment,,,, that is HIS responsibility.

You seem to have a good relationship with him I hope you are not being snowed and will leave it at that. I hate that ---- it's your call and you don't want to ruin a good relationship just cuz some guy on the internet never met your mechanic


The adjuster ring was set correctly prior to the work. My mechanic had no intention of removing it to change the seals. However, one did move slightly. Thus his reset to the dirt mark.

Relative to what the problem is, what caused it, and who is responsible for the cost, I’ll have to wait to ‘cross that bridge’. For example, how does one determine if the carrier bearing was already going bad and its coincidental, vs. the installation of the drive axle flange seal caused a carrier bearing going bad to accelerate its failure (the new noise) vs. the installation of the flange seal compromised a good carrier bearing? I don’t know.

In the past, I have always felt my mechanic made the right decision when it came to redoing work and not charging me for it (even when it took hours to do), or significantly reducing the labor cost (happened once when there was some related failure a year after some work).

Q: So how does one determine were the fault lies? I’ll have to just see how things progress.


It is also frustrating because there is no way to know if a change fixes the problem other than to put it all back together again and see if the noise is gone.

In retrospect, I wish I had not had my mechanic install the new flange seals and cups. This was not a new problem; for years (5 or more) there was a very very very slight leak, with no noticeable increase. The only reason we decided to change them was that with the installation of the new wheel bearing, and the reconditioning of the CV joints, the flange seals and cups were readable accessible. Neither of us could have anticipated what would happen next. Arg!
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