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Joostt
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2016
Posts: 73
Location: Noordwijk, Netherlands
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 Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 1:03 pm Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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Today I decided to roll up my sleeves and remove the undercoating on the front so I can inspect the rust and necessary repairs. What a hell of job! I used an old chisel to remove the undercoating. Now all undercoating on the front is removed and here are the results.
Removed the mudguard left. There was a wasp's nest behind it  .
A pile of rust flakes
And after cleaning it looked like this:
On the right side the mudguard was secured with blind rivets.
The air duct on the right side is gone.
And more or less the same situation as there was on the left side around the right headlight.
Can anybody explain all the pipes that come from and go to the fuel inlet as shown in the picture above? |
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Evil_Fiz
Samba Member
Joined: May 06, 2011
Posts: 1045
Location: Jacksonville, FL
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| Posted: Mon Aug 13, 2018 1:10 pm Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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OUCH 
I have the same task ahead of me but I am waiting to build a rotisserie so I don't end up with permanent neck damage or poisoned by a downpour of lead paint dust.
The good news is that it can all be repaired. Good luck.
-----
Emil
_________________
“…It's not just about what's interesting. It's also about what's helpful, and it's helpful even if it helps just one other guy working on a Ghia.”
kiwighia68
See my build on TheSamba at:
The K_R_A_K_E_N_N : a 70 Ghia Convertible reinterpreted |
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advCo
Samba Member
Joined: May 27, 2017
Posts: 373
Location: Houston, TX
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| Posted: Fri Aug 17, 2018 10:16 am Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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Joostt, great work here. I just read through your log and I have gained some confidence that my Ghia can, in fact, be repaired. I have to repair many of the same areas you have already tackled so I will be referring back. Thanks for sharing all the great before and after photos.
As for removing the undercoating (it may be too late now  ) but an pneumatic chisel with a wide blade works great for removing and allows you to save your energy for other tasks.
_________________
"He pulled the mirrors off his Cadillac ‘cause he doesn’t like it looking like he looks back"
'68/'70 Ghia Coupe Project
'70 Westy Project - Champagne I Wannabe
A bunch of vintage Japanese motorcycles
"Much ingenuity with a little money is vastly more profitable and amusing than much money without ingenuity." -A. Bennett |
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c21darrel
Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009
Posts: 8211
Location: San Dimas
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Joostt
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2016
Posts: 73
Location: Noordwijk, Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Aug 19, 2018 12:50 pm Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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| Quote: |
| I have the same task ahead of me but I am waiting to build a rotisserie so I don't end up with permanent neck damage or poisoned by a downpour of lead paint dust. |
I quickly realised that a good quality dust mask with the right filter is essential. I always use one when making dust. Same for eye and ear protection.
| Quote: |
| As for removing the undercoating (it may be too late now ) but an pneumatic chisel with a wide blade works great for removing and allows you to save your energy for other tasks. |
Thanks for the tip! I still need to undo the pan form undercoating. Will try this!
| Quote: |
| Whats the plan on air duct replacement? I may know someone with that metal if you have not sourced yet.. |
Thanks. I already ordered the rear part of the air duct. The front part is just a box. I'm going to repair that part with sheet metal.
This week I went to my garage where I can use a 50 ton press. Pressed in the new ball joints. It took only about 5 ton of pressure to press them in real good. I did line up the notches on the torsion arms and ball joints (second photo). I installed the torsion arms on the front axle with new sealings. Next I cleaned the grease nipples and bought a grease gun and grease. I made a short movie from greasing the front axle that I uploaded on YouTube.
Link
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Joostt
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2016
Posts: 73
Location: Noordwijk, Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 8:36 am Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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This week I did some more bodywork on the front. I took my angle grinder with a Scotch-Brite disk and started removing the bondo on the front. It makes an awfull lot of dust. Cleaning the dust takes twice as long as removing the bondo itself. However it remains the fastest way to remove bondo in my experience.
After some cleaning:
Next part to repair is the bottom of the spare tire compartment.
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advCo
Samba Member
Joined: May 27, 2017
Posts: 373
Location: Houston, TX
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| Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 8:28 am Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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Do you plan to remove the outer metal that contacts the bulkhead to repair the flange/replace the rubber gasket? My project is in a similar state so I will be watching with interest - I am planning my attack on this area as we speak.
_________________
"He pulled the mirrors off his Cadillac ‘cause he doesn’t like it looking like he looks back"
'68/'70 Ghia Coupe Project
'70 Westy Project - Champagne I Wannabe
A bunch of vintage Japanese motorcycles
"Much ingenuity with a little money is vastly more profitable and amusing than much money without ingenuity." -A. Bennett |
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TDCTDI
Samba Advocatus Diaboli
Joined: August 31, 2013
Posts: 12850
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 8:32 am Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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You can minimize the dust if you either attach a shop vac nozzle to the grinder or work the nozzle alongside the grinder.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.
GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!
An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.
Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it. |
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c21darrel
Samba Member
Joined: January 22, 2009
Posts: 8211
Location: San Dimas
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Joostt
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2016
Posts: 73
Location: Noordwijk, Netherlands
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| Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2018 2:07 pm Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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| Quote: |
| Another way to skin the bondo cat. I use propane, flame on the filler, it will bubble and soften quickly (in seconds). Use a strong putty knife and start scraping. Each pass will remove an inch or so strip of up to 1/2 inch thick bondo. Gotta pay attn to the bondo dropping to the floor, sometimes its on fire. Have a bucket of water handy. I hate the dust mess. |
I will try this on the doors and rocker panels that still contain a vast amount of bondo. I hate the dust! 
| Quote: |
| You can minimize the dust if you either attach a shop vac nozzle to the grinder or work the nozzle alongside the grinder. |
I do have a shop vac with a suitable dust filter to do this. I have found it difficult to aim the vacuum hose and hold the angle grinder. I really need two hands for my quite heavy angle grinder.
| Quote: |
| Do you plan to remove the outer metal that contacts the bulkhead to repair the flange/replace the rubber gasket? My project is in a similar state so I will be watching with interest - I am planning my attack on this area as we speak. |
I suppose you mean the inner Wings in the picture below? I removed the rusty metal that would be hard to reach after replacing the bottom of the spare wheel compartment. I ordered repair panels and will replace the metal that was cut away. I decided not to replace the rubbers between the nose and these inners wings. One reason is they are hard to replace. But the best reason is that these rubbers are the reason for ghia's to rust in this typical vertical line on the nose through the air intake. Dirt and water collect between the nose and these rubbers and rust starts eating away from the inside out. So once I repaired the inner wings I will use a MS polymer seam sealer to replace these rubbers. I'm following your project on the Samba and curious how you will do this.
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Joostt
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2016
Posts: 73
Location: Noordwijk, Netherlands
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| Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 2:44 am Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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It's (almost) christmas time! Christmas holiday provides me with some time for an update. In the last couple of months I've been busy with the right front part of the car. Removing old patches, cutting out rusty metal and replacing it with repair panels.
I'm really happy that the front looks like a ghia once again!
I've also tried the trick with heating up bondo and scraping it away and it works great! Thanks for the tip. Saves me alot of dust in my garage.
Some pics:
Patched the rusty parts in the front en replaces the are around the horn opening. I still need to grind down those welds.
I'm planning on repairing this part en welding it back in the car.
Ugh
I was happy with the repair panel for this area I ordered on werk34.de
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TDCTDI
Samba Advocatus Diaboli
Joined: August 31, 2013
Posts: 12850
Location: North Carolina
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| Posted: Sat Dec 22, 2018 6:40 am Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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Nice! You've done a great job of exocising the ferrous demons from your Ghia.
_________________
Everybody born before 1975 has a story, good, bad, or indifferent, about a VW.
GOFUNDYOURSELF, quit asking everyone to do it for you!
An air cooled VW will make you a hoarder.
Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it. |
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Joostt
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2016
Posts: 73
Location: Noordwijk, Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Mar 03, 2019 2:46 am Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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While continueing with the body work (some patching above the ventilation opening in the front) I did something else for a change. I rebuild (or at least partially) the steering box. It had a leaking seal at the bottom as seen in the first picture. In the second photo on the left you can see that I broke the gasket while removing it . So I used the blue liquid gasket from loctite to replace it. EP0 lithium grease was used to fill the box.
Another job done!
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Joostt
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2016
Posts: 73
Location: Noordwijk, Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Jun 09, 2019 1:32 pm Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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More rust to replace with new metal! I repaired the fresh air duct on the left side. The outside above the rear part of the duct was also rusty and repaired with another patch and on top of that lead filler. After heating the lead filler with a blow torch it could be scraped off easily. After cutting out the rust underneath I replaced the hole with new sheath metal. For the rear side of the channel I used repair panels. But the repair panel does not include the pipe that connects the fresh air channel with the fresh/hot air control unit. So I had to fabricate this myself. It's a 40mm (1,57inch) wide, 8cm (3,15 inch) long pipe. I had a peace of plumbing pipe of this diameter that I could use to roll the sheath metal around.
Next, the right fresh air duct including the fuel inlet.
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djkeev
Samba Moderator
Joined: September 30, 2007
Posts: 32592
Location: Reading Pennsylvania
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Joostt
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2016
Posts: 73
Location: Noordwijk, Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Jun 16, 2019 12:10 am Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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| djkeev wrote: |
To pull it in the garage and tackle the big stuff like rockers is overwhelming right now. But to do as you are doing..... one small patch at a time would work for me. |
I started out with a little patch. And after 3 years of repairing little patches the only thing between a body on and body off restauration by now are the couple of screws that are holding the body on the chassis .
Before I could repair the fuel filler opening I wanted to know if the fuel door release assembly could be working again. It was just resting shut when i bought the car with the cable dangling around underneath. I disassembled the cable (unscrew the D handle first if you need to do this). The part that holds the door closed was gone as you can see in the first picture. The part that holds the cable with 2 screws on the inside has a part number on it (second picture, after cleaning and a quick respray): 111809939A. This is actually the part number of the beetle cable as I could have figured out by the first few numbers. A cable with this part number costs around 40 euro's. The ghia cable has part number 141 809 939 and this cable costs around 140 euro's. The only difference from the picture seems to be the grommet around the cable on the ghia part. I figured I would find some other grommet to solve this and ordered the beetle cable (cheapskate?!).
But I quickly came to realize that this beetle cable is shorter and doesn't reach up to the ghia fuel filler opening . But after some banging with my head against the wall I came up with the idea to use the part of the beetle cable that I needed and put it on the ghia cable. The wire on the inside of the old cable is 1mm thick. Because this was rusted I needed a new one. A gear shifting cable from a bike works fine!
After putting it back together and on the car it all works again!
The beetle cable cut in half
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TRS63
Samba Member
Joined: December 17, 2017
Posts: 999
Location: Stuttgart - Germany
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Joostt
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2016
Posts: 73
Location: Noordwijk, Netherlands
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| Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 12:50 pm Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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An update on the work i've done. I repaired the rusted fuel opening. At first I was tempted to replace the entire fuel opening with the patch panel for this part. Hower the fit with the fuel door was not as good as original and since most of the edges were OK I decided to replace only the badly rusted part en kept all good metal.
The fresh air duct on te right side was in less good shape compared to the left side and I had to relace it entirely (at least the rear part, the front part was repaired earlier). After cutting away the air duct I repaired the metal were the air duct is fitted against. This was done the same as on the left side (and thus a little faster  ). Because I couldn't weld the air duct on the upper side from the wheelhouse side due to a lack of space, I drilled all holes and did my welds from the other side. This was actueally a pretty easy job and a good way to replace the air duct when you don't want to remove the entire front fenders to do this job.
Not shown in the pictures, but I seem welded everything except the air duct.
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kiwighia68
Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2013
Posts: 2874
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
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| Posted: Sun Aug 18, 2019 1:35 pm Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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Wel gedaan, Joost.
The quality of your work is matched only by your dedication to what 99% of others would have ditched as an impossible job.
_________________
Festina lente - hasten slowly
1968 Ghia named Emiko
Resto completed Dec 2015 |
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Joostt
Samba Member
Joined: June 04, 2016
Posts: 73
Location: Noordwijk, Netherlands
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| Posted: Fri Aug 23, 2019 1:12 pm Post subject: Re: YAKGRP: late '69 coupe |
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| kiwighia68 wrote: |
Wel gedaan, Joost.
The quality of your work is matched only by your dedication to what 99% of others would have ditched as an impossible job. |
Thanks! I'll have to admit that I belong to those 99% every once in a while. But i'll hang on to this project for now  .
I ordered stainless steel bumpers and did a trial fit. I figured that this would be a good time to fiddle with the bumpers and drilling holes in the fenders. Once it's painted I don't want those scratches in the new paint job (just talking about paint makes me smile, it seems so far away).
I'm happy with the fit. At first I could get the bumpers on. They wouldnt fit around the fenders. The trick was to loosen up the bolds that hold the bumper pieces and rosette together. So at first tighten the bolds hand tight and after the bumper is fitted tighten them down.
At an earlier stage I removed all the bondo from the lower part of the right door (with a blowtorch and chisel as suggested!). The car has some minor collision damage on the right rear fender and right door. But this damage combined with some pretty bad rust on the door made me decide to look for another door for the right side. I found one on ebay in Germany. It will be chipped to me next week.
I removed the right door and welded a brace in the door opening. I've seen some variations on door braces on thesamba. I wanted a brace that could stay in place while trial fitting the door. I don't see the logic in putting in a brace and removing half way through the job.
Welding seems a bit ugly, but it's fast and I can remove it without any evidence it was ever there.
Now I'm ready to remove al patches and repairs from the heater channels and discover what will be needed to repair it .
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