Source for oil gallery plug under flywheel?

[IdahoDoug]

So, there is a large (1" or so) steel plug at the 6 o'clock position below the crankshaft oil seal on the flywheel side. I have cleaned the block and cannot remember if it was leaking but it has a bead of something around it like perhaps someone else was here so I want to remove it and replace it with a new one and I'm going to epoxy it in place such that a torch would be needed to remove it.

Anyone know where I can get a new one? No love on Van Cafe. Bentley is of course silent on what this is and how to deal with it.

Thanks.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[Wildthings]

Are you talking about the cam plug? It can not be changed without splitting the case. It is installed as the case is assembled and sealed with case sealant.

Maybe clean off all the old gooped on sealant and replace it with something new.

[Robw_z]

If you epoxy it in, splitting the case won't be fun in the future. If builders like 10 cent don't go out of their way to improve on the factory method with the cam plug(and maybe they do but I've never heard of it), perhaps leave it.

-Rob

[djkeev]

Camshaft end plug,

Don't go there Doug, let this sleeping dog lie.

Dave
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[IdahoDoug]

OK - thanks. I like the idea of cleaning excess off it and reapplying an external sealant. Will do.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[[email protected]]

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Cam-Plug-Non-Metal-for-Grooved-Cases-040-101-157-p/040-101-157.htm

can be installed without splitting the case. I install these on new engine builds, they work great. I prefer Curil T or K as the sealant on the OD.

If the case is split you have the option of using the o-ring or grooved type plugs, but in many cases that is an unnecessary amt of extra work when the smooth seals works so well.
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[bluebus86]

Rather than buy the non grooved cam plug at aircooled,net for $5.95 you can buy it for $2.69 at SoCal Imports.

link...
http://www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/aftermarket-camshaft-plug-stock-rubber-p-12371


Less than half the price verses aircool,net!

It pays to shop around! Dont waste your money paying the higher price!

Chirco also is cheaper than aircoled,net, at $3.51 not as good a deal as SoCal Imports but still a much better deal than johns price...

link...
http://chircoestore.com/cam-plug-rubber-for-aftermarket-case-for-air-cooled-vw-engines.html


But wait, theres more for only $2.29 you can obtain this little gem from GPR

link....

http://www.gprparts.com/catalog-3/category/engine/volkswagen/1967/beetle/_/engine-camshaft-plug


SO THE WINNER IS GPR Parts,,,,,

there are several others that sell this part for less than aircooled,net, but the three I linked too are the three lowest prices I could find in about two minutes of web searching.


Aircooled,net was the most expensive price for this part that I found.

So to summerize...


GPR Parts....$2.29
SoCal Imports......$2.69
Chirco......$3.51

and dead last...

aircooled,net.....$5.95



good luck in a leak free engine!!!!!


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[IdahoDoug]

Bluebus,

Thanks for the price check - I appreciate it. However, it's a good time for me to reveal my philosophy on buying stuff for my Vanagon, which may surprise some. I am a capitalist first, and last. But I purposely buy my Vanagon parts from long time vendors that cater to the hobby because over the years I have watched as they continue to offer odd bits that we need - both now, and in the future.

The world inexorably moves toward price, which continues to eliminate stockists who have slow moving inventory like our vendors and favors huge firms who use cost cutting computer programs to automatically eliminate slow moving parts from old vehicles like Rock Auto. Now before RA fans jump me, they have some stuff and a place in the market as well.

So, as a capitalist, I know that when I pay a little more from a Vanagon specialist, I am voting with my dollars to keep a higher service level, and to keep it economically viable for these guys to keep catering to our vehicles. In other words, I am being a GOOD capitalist and using my money to shape my market preferences as a deliberate strategy.

So, if I end up needing this part, I will order it from AirCooled because when I'm old (any year now), I will still want to be able to pick up the phone and talk to someone who knows the difference between the seals on the block end of my pushrod tubes, and the head end seals. And other esoteric things that send a shiver up my leg in matters Vanagon.
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1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[bluebus86]

[CinnabarVan]

Hi Guys,

I'm hoping that there are some experts that can share some engine knowledge on this. I just pulled my tranny on my 89 Syncro Westy to replace that pesky oil leak from somewhere behind the flywheel. I was convinced that it was a "leaky" rear main seal.

The seal and flywheel are beautiful. After closer inspection there is an oil seepage from the cam plug. The plug is rubber. (part number 040.101.157.6 This engine is one of the last Boston Bob rebuilt with about 40K miles on it.

My questions to this forum:
1) Can I clean the area up, take off the old black sealant and goop up the external case with "the Right Stuff" or Curil to stop the leak?

or

2) Should I attempt to pull the plug out and replace it with another rubber plug as advertised in a previous post? ... and also goop it up when I insert the new plug.

I've never done this without splitting the case, which is why I am asking for your wisdom on this. I have not seen anything on Samba about doing this job. Does the old plug come out easily by just prying it out with a couple of tools? Or is it a royal pain to get the old plug out and better off to just add sealant on the external case at the split and hope that it does the job?

Thank you,
Joel in Rochester