Type 4 2.0L Engine Rebuild

[kooper271]

Hi all,

Before I get my 77 back together, I'm going to rebuild the engine. It sat for 15 years and there is 140k miles on the vehicle (unknown how many on the engine), as well as signs that the engine was overheated.


I've never rebuilt an engine before, but I've been doing research. I also have the book How to Rebuild Your Volkswagen air-Cooled Engine (All models, 1961 and up). Based on my research, here is a list of what I plan to do replace.

New
Main Bearings
Rod Bearings
Cam Bearings
Pistons/cylinders
Camshaft
Lifters
Gasket set with front and rear main seals


Reconditioned
Case - line bored, decked
Rods
Crank
Flywheel


I will also have Headflow Masters do a valve job on both heads - new valve guides, valve springs, and valves.


Anything I'm missing or that I should consider?

[Bleyseng]

New reworked AMC heads and toss the old ones........
_________________
70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles

[kooper271]

[Oil Phil-M]

Usually T4 cases do not require align bore but get it checked.
Here are a few items that my brain can remember from my rebuild:
- oil passages threaded inserts in place of the original pressed in ones
- oil pump
- oil cooler cleaning/replacing
- oil cooler bypass valve and cleaned up seat
- camshaft gear
- valve train upgrade with solid rocker shaft spacers, swivel foot adjusters, oversized rocker studs and possibly base spacers
- pushrods to be cut to proper length and possibly new push rod tubes
- a bunch of different sealants for various sealing tasks
- thermostat for the air flaps
- bag of new cooling tin screws
- breakin oil

Then there is a host of tools you will require or make and dont forget a good scale to weigh the parts for balancing. Look into dynamic balancing also.

[williamM]

wouldn't blindly line bore a T4 as that block was quite stout.

The big issue will be the oil pump- that thing is rare and the new ones that are being suggested tend to have dimension problems. Master fabricator john and I are trying to work out a fix with "O" rings and blocker beads but been too hot lately to play.

Then the "hydraulic" vs "solid " lifter has to be decided. I've just bought 2 "road cams" and solid lifters for the next 2 - yet to be started on engines, and will report on their performance when run.

So spend about 3 days reading every T4 post here and take notes of part numbers and procedures - you will have a wonderful engine you can casually talke about round the camp fire.


and what he said (Oily phill)
_________________
some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.

opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.

Don't step in any!

[BUSBOSS]

[williamM]

pair of reconditioned AMC just hit market here on Samba- $550 delivered.
_________________
some days I get up and just sit and think. Some days I just sit.

opinion untempered by fact is ignorance.

Don't step in any!

[Busstom]

[kooper271]

[busdaddy]

[nerdhotrod]

[SGKent]

set $4500 aside and a month of vacation or 90 days worth of nights, or leave it alone. You'll want new heads from Len unless this is a just around town bus. It is not that it is all that hard, just the time to run down parts for a 40 year old car, clean everything, put it together right etc will take a huge amount of time. In the 1970's and 1980's there were machine shop everywhere that did the work, and parts were plentiful. Today you can spend weeks trying to figure which flywheel seal to use and which sealants. When you damage a small item or it is too worn you may spend a week of phone calls trying to find the part. And the parts will be metric so when you ask about a certain nut it may cost you $1.25 each X 5 nuts minimum plus $10 postage which seem outrageous because you can buy 100 for 30 cents each which if you do the math you realize is $40 shipped for the 100 vs $16 for the 5.

Read the Bentley section on the engine several times before you make the final decision. Don't line bore it unless it is over 200,000 miles. Don't use a reground cam, and if the heads are anything but recent buy new ones from Len. Really. There is a reason restored late buses sell for $20K and up these days.

BTW - in honesty now so we know how to approach this - you said "I've never rebuilt an engine before," Can you tell us what kind of things you have rebuilt and what access to tools you have?
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[williamM]

[quote="busdaddy"]

[poptop tom]

Have your oil gallery plugs drilled and tapped when the engine is apart.
_________________
'76 Deluxe Campmobile

[kooper271]

[THall]

[kooper271]

[SGKent]

[kooper271]

Thank you for the advice, SGKent. I assume the 9 ft-lbs torque bolt you refer to is the oil strainer nut? This is all exciting and also worrying. I do have a great local shop, but they mostly deal with Type 1 engines. With a manual, time, money, and information I think this is something I can accomplish though.

[Bleyseng]