Type 4 2.0L Engine Rebuild

[kooper271]

Tcash,

I found the issue. Something inside the switch is shorting. When the switch is installed loosely with no screws, it works fine. As soon as any pressure is applied, it shorts.

No wires are broken or missing insulation so it seems like its time for a new switch

[Tcash]

On the Late 74-79 turn signal switches. The white plastic piece breaks and the return spring can float around in the switch.
Broken plastic piece

Good plastic piece

L74-79 Turn signal switch prt# 211 953 513 K

When you install the turn swtch be sure to adjust the clearance.

Good luck
Tcash

[kooper271]

Thanks Tcash. My switch wasn't broken there and I couldn't figure out where it was shorting so I ordered a new one.

My brake lights work, and my tail lights work. But when the tail lights are on, and I hit the brakes, the lights don't get any brighter. Should they?

[busdaddy]

[kooper271]

[SGKent]

without re-reading 12 pages, make sure that the top on the hazard switch isn't coming off. They almost all do and cause all sorts of bizarre turn signal behaviors as well as blown fuses.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[busdaddy]

[kooper271]

Thanks Sgkent it is loose so I will replace or repair it.

Busdaddy switching the wires at the terminals seems like a good place to start. Not sure on if i hold the brakes and and turn the lights on, i will check.


I took the bus out for the first drive tonight. Things didnt go all too great. Brakes are dragging and i got an occasional grinding going into second. Third and fourth were nonexistant. I replaced all of the bushings and stuff inside the nosecone along with the pilot bearing, throwout bearing, clutch etc. Think my shifter needs adjusted. Thoughts?

[busdaddy]

Shifter adjustment should fix the missing 3/4 issue, but the grinding may just be a bad transmission, how much freeplay do you have on the clutch pedal?
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[kooper271]

[Wildthings]

What oil do you have in the transmission? These things need fairly thin oil, like an 80 wt or 75w90.

[kooper271]

[kooper271]

The brakes may be the backing plate rubbing. Luckily a relevant thread was brought up yesterday so I can check

[Wildthings]

Some brake drag is normal, especially when the rotors and drums are rusty from sitting.

[SGKent]

do not use GL5 or synthetic oil in the trans. If the synchros are moly coated by the factory, or the rebuilder uses them for better shifting, they will slip so bad the trans will need to be rebuilt again. GL4 only. Stalube GL4 is easily available at NAPA stores.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[kooper271]

[SGKent]

if the backing plates were replaced the drum is rubbing on the new backing plates. The drum can be machined, or the later wider spacer can be used by going into the hub and servicing it at the same time. Some folks are building shims but I do not recommend it for fear they may work and loosen.
_________________
“Most people don’t know what they’re doing, and a lot of them are really good at it.” - George Carlin

[kooper271]

[kooper271]

My alternator isn't functioning right

I read ~12 volts at the battery.

I checked the voltage at the lug on the alternator and got readings at about 27 volts.

That's ridiculously high. I also obviously have an issue in the wire from the alternator to the starter to not get any voltage to the battery.

Why do you think i have such high voltage? Bad regulator? Checked and rechecked all of my grounds

[Tcash]