Barely failed emissions and gas cap

[mustard675]

The gas cap failed, though I don't know how, it's quite snug. Do you guys have a source for a replacement gasket available somewhere? If not the gasket then the whole cap. I'd even replace with a keyless if that's available.

For the sniffer the MD state standards are:
HC (ppm) 220
CO (%) 1.20

And my results read:
HC (ppm) 244
CO (%) 2.91

Only thing I noticed during the sniffer is that the idle seems to be higher than normal. It idles around 1250 rpm. I'm assuming it should be in the 800 rpm range?

What are some things I should look at to knock these numbers down?

Basic tune up? Not looking to replace the exhaust right now and with the numbers so close I presume the catalytic converter is functioning somewhat.

Thanks!
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1987 VW Vanagon Westfalia
@peanutbutterwestytime

[AtlasShrugged]

Here in Georgia the gas cap is "exempt from testing" as I don't think it is designed to hold pressure..could be wrong..but the gas cap on our Vanagons is different.

I would just get a new generic cap from NAPA that fits.

CO indicates your mixture is too rich..but with the high idle you must get the idle down to spec..and the micro switch that tells the ECU you are at idle may not be engaged too. check the linkage as it may be holding the throttle open.

It mat be time for a good tune up. If that won't work..a new catalytic converter.

[fxr]

Emissions I can't help you with - others here have far more knowledge.

However, the gas cap is probably not the problem with your 'gas cap fail'. I'm assuming this is the low-pressure test of the evap system. This is where they clamp off the line to the charcoal canister (hopefully NOT on the hard plastic line - that won't work and they shouldn't do it) then use an adaptor to replace the gas cap, pressurise the fuel system to ~1.5psi and wait to check it doesn't fall below ~1psi after a few minutes. In CA at least it's all done by machine except for the line clamping - one just waits for the Pass 'beep' or Fail 'barp'.

It's easy enough to check this system yourself, see page 20:21 of the Bentley, and if necessary pay $14 to Home Depot for a low-pressure gauge and a couple of fittings. I've just been through this:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8120453#8120453
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Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300

[mustard675]

[dobryan]

You can borrow my cap if you need it. It seems to pass MD fine.
_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[bluebus86]

Rather to replace your cap, why not buy some rubber gasket material and cut out a new gasket for your existing cap, that way you keep your key lock. nice thing is that the key prevent fuel theft and tampering, and since the key fits the ignition, your unlikely to leave the cap at the gas station.

good luck
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Help Prevent VW Engine Fires, see this link.....Engine safety wire information

Stop introducing dirt into your oil when adjusting valves ... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022

[davideric9]

Auto parts carry a gas cap for our vans. Get a new one and have your smog guy test it, if it fails he was using the wrong adapter. My smog guy will sell me a cap on site and then pass me. I now keep a spare in the van. Wish I could help you with a replacement seal, I'd like to have one.
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1987 Syncro Westfalia, stock (bought 1994)
1986 Syncro Westfalia SVX, 3 knob (bought 2008)
1987 Westfalia (bought 2010)
1988 Wolfsburg GL (bought 2012)

[nacradriver]

Had the same issue in CA... gas cap failed... Bought a new one from Airhead parts, went back and passed...

Took it off, put the old one back on and keep it in a box for the next test...
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Güdrun -1989 Westfalia - 2013 - 2018
Petra - 1985 Vanagon - 1985 to 1991
Zisa - 1974 VW Van "Bus" - 1974 to 1985

[bluebus86]

of course a leaky cap can allow rain or wash water to get into the tank, best to fix or replace a failed cap me thinks for this reason.
_________________
Help Prevent VW Engine Fires, see this link.....Engine safety wire information

Stop introducing dirt into your oil when adjusting valves ... https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=683022

[mustard675]

OK so I ordered a new gas cap through Airhead Parts (Thanks for the tip nacradriver) after failing to buy through the classifieds here.

I troubleshot the high idle a little. Took the Idle Control Module out, the one that's behind the passenger tail light. Opened it up and found multiple problems with it. There were at least half a dozen capacitors where the insides became the outsides, burnt traces, and overall looks like it is beyond repair. A replacement is $200 plus the core.

My question is, if I replace this unit, how likely is it that the replacement will actually work? I would hate to drop two bills on this and to turn the key and hear the popping of capacitors because something is shorting out somewhere else in the system. Is there any way to test beyond just plug and play?

Thanks.
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1987 VW Vanagon Westfalia
@peanutbutterwestytime

[mustard675]

Dropped a few bills on maintenance items while i'm still researching the idle control module. New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, O2 sensor..

Anyone have thoughts on replacing the ICM? Am I at risk of damaging a replacement, knowing that the old unit had fried capacitors and traces?
_________________
1987 VW Vanagon Westfalia
@peanutbutterwestytime

[djkeev]

No wonder those relays burn up!
They are located in an electrical Hell!
Whomever decided on this location should be strung up.
Quoting from my build thread.........

[mustard675]

Forgive me guys but I'm digging up my old thread for the sake of closure. This is a long one. I passed emissions today. It's been a long journey. My wallet is lighter and my wife will be happy that I can now come to bed at a reasonable hour instead of tinkering in the garage. Who am I kidding? The van is never done.

Anyway here's what I did to get things to pass.

For the gas cap, I purchased a new one. But the second time I went the guy informed me they don't have the proper connection to test the cap. So that was a waste of a few bucks.

For emissions I started with a refurbished Idle Control Module. (https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=664960&highlight=). No issues there overall. Ended up using GoWesty for this which worked out fine. It took a solid 6-8 weeks before I heard back on my core charge. But despite my whole core looking like it went through a flood, I was returned the core charge deposit. I guess they could use it after all. Plugging the new ICM in caused my idle to go from 1500 to 2500 RPM. Hmm.

From here I basically did an entire tune up and clean. And also decided that now was a good a time as any to replace the fuel lines. On the fuel system (the first round) I replaced the soft lines, hard lines, bulkhead, rails, filter, pump, fuel tank seals, and overflow tank gaskets.

Onto the ignition system. I replaced plugs and gapped to spec. New wires, cap and rotor. I removed the Idle control valve, first noting that it had the appropriate "humm" to verify it was functioning. I cleaned this with brake cleaner, it was quite filthy. I then removed the throttle body for cleaning. The switch was not engaging at idle. I tried adjusting the socket cap screws but in the end I just removed the switch and bent the arm ever so slightly for it to make contact at both idle and WOT. I measured the continuity with a multimeter and it checked out. The throttle body itself was filthy. A good cleaning and lube did her right. That went back on the engine with a new gasket. Adjusted the idle using the screw and finally was able to get it below 1000 RPM. Turning the screw all the way in got it to 900 RPM. (Remember this for later)

I cleaned the air flap inside the air box. I also replaced the filter.

I removed, cleaned, scrubbed and added dielectric grease to all ground connections back of the rear seat, starting with the one on the transmission. I noticed a ground connection on the base of the distributor which didn't have a ground wire, so I added one.

Next I checked for vacuum leaks. I made another thread which showed those results. Basically I had more than a few leaks. Intake rubber was leaking near one of the hose clamps for cylinder 2. My 1-2 bank valve cover was bent and the gasket not seated properly, replaced. The breather tower was leaking past the diaphragm. Sealed that with rtv for better or worse. Highly recommend a smoke machine on these old engines. (https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=674702&highlight=)

Checked the health of my cylinders using a leak down tester. (https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=673076&highlight=) Passed with flying colors. Have a thread on that somewhere. Basically only lost 1-3 PSI in each cylinder which is excellent.

Also slapped on a new O2 sensor for good measure.

Now it's May and time for reinspection, so I go back and my numbers were WORSE than they were in July or whatever. I'm thinking WTF. Here are all the readings to date.

The MD state standards are:
HC (ppm) 220
CO (%) 1.20

And my July results read:
HC (ppm) 244
CO (%) 2.91

April results read:
HC (ppm) 1152
CO (%) 1.71

Well my CO went down but hydrocarbons through the roof! Back to the drawing board.

In this time I was having issues with debris from the fuel tank clogging the fuel pump. I must not have flushed my existing tank properly. I dropped it and it was FULL of rust bits. (Tank is now available for free if anyone wants to do local pick up) So I opted for a new tank from Spectre. Put that all back together, cleaned the fuel pump inlet using isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle and some q-tips. System runs like a sewing machine now. No fuel pump noise at all, great!

I opted to get a new catalytic converter since the CO was still high. I needed to have exhaust work done anyway since my new used GoWesty 2" hitch would not install because the muffler was in the way. The previous owners hacked the exhaust system together. It had been repaired numerous times. So I get a universal cat, my exhaust shop sources an appropriate muffler and I get that done. I ask if I could look inside the old cat and the guy laughed. It was completely gutted inside. No remnants nothing. One step closer to being legal and passing.

Finally I was thinking the high HC was probably the system running lean. So I researched online and found that I performed the idle adjustment incorrectly. Now I'm not positive the two are related. But I went forward with the proper procedure. The first time I adjusted using the throttle body screw with the ICV plugged in. It turns out that the ICV is fighting your adjustments at this point. So what I did was unplugged the ICV and shorted the connection. The vehicle would not start like this. I ended up having to back the throttle body screw out 5 full turns before I could get it to catch. From there I adjusted until the idle was about 900 RPM. Plugged the ICV back in and the idle hovers between 900-1000.

I adjusted the timing to 35 degrees at 3000 RPM. Seems good though I have a sort of flat spot at 2000 RPM while driving now. I think the engine was advanced way too far before. I also read some posts here on the samba recommending 40 degrees, but I figured for sake of passing emissions, I could use those 5 degrees retarded. Be interested if you guys have any thoughts on that.

Oh I also did an oil change a few days before testing. Used seafoam to clean out the old gunk in the transfer case. And injected it into the throttle body to clean out the top end. Used 20w50 oil and a quart of Lucas stabilizer. Snake oil? Maybe. But it's thick and sticky and just might be what was needed to fix some seals internal to the engine.

So I go in today and am 2 cars back in line. The whole time I'm keeping the engine at 3000 RPM. People are staring. But I went in and passed! And well below the MD standards too.

May results read:
HC (ppm) 69
CO (%) 0.49

I'm happy and the wife is happy. We will be planning a celebratory camping trip in the upcoming weeks. If you've read this far, thanks!
Take care.
_________________
1987 VW Vanagon Westfalia
@peanutbutterwestytime