Timing Chain

[jjvincent]

As for the phasers, once it's on TDC you can remove the bolt for each one. Then they slide off. After that, the plate is held on by a few bolts and it'll slide off. Only thing you got to be careful of is when you put the plate back on. Just lube up the sealing rings (they are like mini piston rings which are amazingly just like the rings that are in the transmission).

[Zeitgeist 13]

Sheesh, I'm finally getting back to the task of removing the upper timing cover for an inspection of the upper rails and phasers. It's been raining crazy amounts this winter and early spring, so I haven't been able to keep on track of this job since the van won't fit in my shop right now.


I think I have all the bolts loose on the cover, but I'm having a helluva time getting access to the chain tensioner bolt. Any tips/tricks to removing that bolt?
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[jjvincent]

No trick. I do know it's the same size as the tensioner on an e46 BMW (I use the same socket). It takes a 1/2" drive and a good smack to loosen it.

[Zeitgeist 13]

I can only assume you gained access from below, 'cause I can't seem to snake my wrench back there from the top.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Zeitgeist 13]

Ok, I got the tensioner and upper cover off, after finding the hidden bolt holding it in place. I ended up using this weird Turkish 27mm wrench that I don't use very often. It just fit into the limited space up there.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Zeitgeist 13]

I've now pulled the phasers off as well as the cover below them. What should I be looking for/doing now? Can that forward timing rail be removed from above? As you can see, the oil screen is tearing away, so should I just cut it out completely? Lots of questions still.

_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[jjvincent]

On the 12V you can remove the rail that's on the front part of the van. All you do is remove one bolt and can lift it out. On the 24V, you need to remove those two M6 allen head bolts. The upper is easy but I'm not sure if there's enough space to thread the lower one out enough to all allow you to remove the rail. On a 3.2 motor I know they changed that rail to where you could remove both bolts and replace the rail.

The chain is sawing the front rail. That's pretty typical and can actually go that way for a long time. When the chain gets too loose, it starts throwing a code because the timing is too far off.

As for the screen, take it out, if not it'll just end up breaking apart even more and jamming itself up in the phasers.

[Zeitgeist 13]

Yeah, I've pulled apart lots of mega-high mileage Mercedes diesels with rails that looked all grooved like that, and they didn't rattle or cause other issues. I suspect those grooves are the source of my popcorn sounds.

Are there any things I should do with the phasers themselves while they're out?
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[jjvincent]

I take the phasers and put them in a container of solvent and then work them back and forth. That gets out most of the old oil. Then put them in a a container of acetone and do the same. Set them out and let them dry. After that, put them in fresh oil and work them back and forth to fill them. There's nothing there you can damage with solvent or acetone.

Then that phaser block with the solenoids. On the back side there are those two torx plugs. Take them out and then the springs, washer and piston. Set them on a clean cloth. After that, clean the block ports with acetone and use compressed air to blow them out. If you want, you can use a 9V batter and activate the solenoids and see them work. Oil everything up and reassemble. After that, you should be fine.

Also, spread that chain apart and take a look at the lower sprocket if you can. The double row part is not the real problem, it's the single row. You might be able to see one or two teeth of the single row.

[Zeitgeist 13]

Thanks, that's really helpful!
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[gakali]

Clearly got it's oil changes at regular interval it's whole life. Das good.
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Why do it? Because you can.

1999 Eurovan
2003 A4 Avant 1.8T Quattro
1992 W201 190e 2.3 Mercedes
2006 W220 S600 V12 Twin Turbo 5.5 Mercedes

[jjvincent]

At this point, when you get ti back together, you'll be fine. Just because it makes noise, doesn't mean it's going to grenade itself. You should be fine.

[Zeitgeist 13]

In this installment of "How screwed am I?", we examine what I'm calling the cam phaser solenoids. I was following Cole's video discussing how to remove these solenoids, but I ended up snapping the electric part from the plunger housing. They're only lightly crimped in place, so I'm wondering if I can just go ahead and bolt them back, or whether I need to buy new solenoids or the whole bracket. What does VAG call these pieces?

They don't look anything like the one Cole pulled from his engine. The plunger housing with the o-rings is either fused to the bracket or is completely different on mine. There's a little plunger that comes out (upper part of the first pic), but the housing shows no signs of moving. You can see the three tiny broken crimp tabs in the second pic.

Link

_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[jjvincent]

Oh no, that's not what you were supposed to do. You were to take the two torx plugs off on the back side and leave the solenoids attached. Most Eurovans have the early cam phaser plate and valves.

You should be able to just bolt them back on as long as you didn't break the flanges on the solenoids themselves. The bolts are only to hold it in as the solenoids just push on the pistons.

[Zeitgeist 13]

I removed the Torx screws, but unlike Cole stated in his vid there didn't seem to be anything to tap against in order to push out the plunger housings, so I tried prying. They broke off very easily. Since my screen was intact, I'm guessing there was no reason to remove them. The little plungers both move very freely, so I'm hoping there are no obvious problems with this system.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[jjvincent]

The plungers come out from the back but normally there's gunk built up that makes you think they will not come out. So a dental pick and working it back and forth will break the gunk free and they come out. There's no need to remove the solenoids from the aluminum plate at all.

Anyway, once everything is clean, the pistons will work free and i have checked that the response time for the actual vs requested cam timing is better when everything is clean. That tells me that the system is working the way it was designed.

[Zeitgeist 13]

Ok, I'm now ready to start reassembly. I pulled that upper timing rail, and it had some obvious wear that warrants replacement. I found all the replacement parts, but I can't figure out the part # for the coolant gasket that fits between the head and the upper timing cover, behind the thermostat flange. To be clear, I already have the gasket between the flange and the timing cover. I need the one between the cover and the head. There's also a small green o-ring up there, but I found that part. I just can't seem to isolate the coolant gasket for the timing cover. Any thoughts?

_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[jjvincent]

You are going to have to take a pic of it because the only one I can think of is PN: 022121119A

https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/audi-volkswagen-cylinder-head-seal-022121119a

[Zeitgeist 13]

Thanks, that FCP link shows a seal just like the one I need, but when I punch that # in at ECS Tuning it shows the thermostat seal. Of course neither place has all the parts I need.

Is there a good part # look up site you all use to source these oddball parts?
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[jjvincent]

For VAG
http://www.oemepc.com/

For BMW:
https://www.realoem.com/

For Porsche:
http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesandservices/...inalparts/