Timing Chain

[Zeitgeist 13]

Perfect, that VAG link worked like a charm.
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Zeitgeist 13]

[jjvincent]

[Zeitgeist 13]

I'm finally starting to put the timing assembly back together and the procedure states that I need to maintain pressure on the tensioner rail while turning the engine over two times to check the orientation of the cams. How have others maintained that pressure if doing this by yourselves?

[Edit] I ended up wedging a long prybar in there and it held the rail against the chain.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[jjvincent]

Thread in the tensioner one turn.

It's literally like a e46 BMW. You can either have the elaborate $800 tool or thread the tensionier one turn.

[Zeitgeist 13]

I still hadn't tightened the phasers, so the upper timing cover wasn't yet installed. Everything checked out timing wise, so I'll begin bolting the timing and valve covers on tomorrow.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[jjvincent]

You should take apart the vanos on an e46. After you do that, the EV seems like it's childs play. I don't understand how two manufacturers that were trying to do the same exact thing simultaneously in the same country, yet one made it overly complex and the other didn't. Years ago someone gave me all of the BMW factory tools to do the cam timing and it's like 10 separate tools and I think it was around $4K brand new (you only really need 2 of the tools).

Just the tensioner tool alone is a nice machined part that goes in and then has a special bolt in it. That is attached to a flexible shaft that goes to a hand held torque limiting device. Just the massive blocks that hold the cams is overkill because if that's not enough, they have a special tool that goes in #6 spark plug with a fork, thus holds down the cam locking tools. The only time you ever torque down on the cams are through three M6 nuts on each. The size of the tools you'd think you were tightening down an axle nut. Then there's the special crank locking pin that pretty much nobody can figure out where it goes. Even when you can, most likely it was made for a brand new engine that is pristine.

I won't even get into the left hand threaded bolts or if you accidentally remove the helix on the end of the cam (if you do that, you might as well throw away the cams).

In conclusion, the VR6 is really easy.

[Zeitgeist 13]

I fired it up today. At first it was just to see if there were any odd noises or error codes, so there was no coolant. Then I test-filled the cooling system with tap water from a garden hose. It fired up and didn't have any obvious leaks from stuff I touched, but alas the radiator now has a small pinhole leak. Glad I didn't waste any liquid gold in the process.

It still has the popcorn sound, so the upper timing rail wasn't the culprit.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Zeitgeist 13]

All pinned back up with a complete cooling system, transmission service/cooler install and the upper timing rail replaced. It runs excellent and seems to have a slightly reduced volume to the popcorn sound. I was sweatin' bullets about what I did to the timing solenoids, so I'm glad they appear to be functioning and not throwing codes. Thanks for all the help getting me through these tasks.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Gruppe B]

Will you be going back in for the lower timing rails later?

This job is on my "to do" list...

[Zeitgeist 13]

Probably, but my longterm goal is to convert the van to TDI
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[57 Zwitter?]

I have a one owner 2001 24V VR-6 MV with 103k miles. The intermediate gear has no visible signs of teeth! I don't know how it ran up to when it finally didn't! Bent a few valves and died! Owner claimed they always changed the oil when they should, what does that mean??

[gakali]

[Brunocerous]

[Zeitgeist 13]

Does the AES even have cam phasers?
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Brunocerous]

Does anyone have experience with Bremmen Parts? I'm shocked by the price difference at ECS for timing-related parts:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-assembled-by-ecs-parts...AwIBAQEBAg

A price of $3.50 does seem a bit too good to be true for a lower timing chain when OE costs $116 for the same part.

[Zeitgeist 13]

I've never heard of them, but they sound a lot like a supplier who wants to appear German without actually making their stuff in Germany or the EU. I believe Iwis is an OE supplier of chains to Mercedes, so I'd trust their aftermarket parts way more than a fly by night supplier like Bremmen--especially on a critical part like a timing chain. I also wouldn't skimp on the timing rails or tensioners.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[gakali]

[Abscate]

[57 Zwitter?]

I just got my 01 EV weekender with 155k back from having chains done at a local German repair shop. I went through the Euro parts of SD site and ordered everything that would be touched when taken apart spending about $1500. Cooling hoses and pipes, both water pumps, both intermediate timing gears, tranny pan, seal, cooler and dipstick etc, he also cleaned the phasers and removed the little screen that causes problems. The gears didn't look too bad and it probably would have gone another 50k but didn't want to take the chance of possibly having to do a complete rebuild if timing skipped. Cost was $2800. which included about 1000 for more parts. Now I am not afraid to drive this van anywhere! Well worth the $$ spent. I was going to get rebuilt tranny since it was out anyway, but decided not to since it works fine...for now, and cost to remove /replace later is only $500