Early shift rod bushings and difficulty selecting/shifting gears

[Who.Me?]

Hi

I've had problems downshifting to 1st and 2nd that I've been assuming are synchro issues (tunnel case trans in Oct '56 truck), and finding reverse (gear shift feels and looks like it's gone in, but the gears slip until I give it another shove). Given the stop/start nature of UK traffic, that's getting to be a bit of a drag. Getting in to first quickly when lights change etc is difficult too, but Changing up and down through 3rd and 4th are fine.

Before I start thinking about getting the trans rebuilt, I thought I'd check the linkage and bushes. I was confused for a while as I can't find any bushes, but from comparing to this thread... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=280623 ... I've worked out that I should have an M spring and a bush/cage, not plastic bushes.

Have checked underneath and the M spring feels fine (good contact with the front rod and no holes that I can feel), but the front bushing/cage where the front rod goes through the crossmember is mostly gone. It only has one finger.

The trans leaks a little oil through the nose cone bush, which I'm guessing is because the long shift rod is unsupported and has worn on the bush.

Will replacing that bush/cage help with any of the above symptoms? I've contacted Evam motors to get one of their repros, but is it worth getting two and adding one at the rear cross-member to further support the long shift rod?

Also, despite checking the throw out bearing when I pulled the engine, it's now developed a whine if I leave my foot on the clutch while idling in traffic. I've ordered a replacement and will fit it when I get a chance, but will that help with any of the above symptoms?

Don't want to send the trans off for a rebuild if it doesn't need it.

Thanks

Andy
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Andy


Looking for info on my truck's history. Are you from Campbell California or nearby. Do you recognise it? ... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=636786

[Eric&Barb]

Have you been checking gear oil level and refilling as needed every 6,000 miles? Low gear oil can result in harder to shift gears.
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[Who.Me?]

[Krustybus]

My 58 has a tunnel case trans. I was living with sloppy shifting having only 2 of 3 fingers on the shift bushing. When one more broke, it was near impossible to shift or find reverse. A new bushing was like getting a new bus.

Like all things Volkswagen, everything needs to be in place, adjusted, and maintained to work properly.
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Tim

[Who.Me?]

Thanks. I've contacted Evam Classic Parts to order one, but I checked their website yesterday and it said they're away until early August
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Andy


Looking for info on my truck's history. Are you from Campbell California or nearby. Do you recognise it? ... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=636786

[Who.Me?]

[Eric&Barb]

We all screw up now and then....

Hopefully the damage to the transaxle is not too bad, but do figure the lifespan will have been shortened, by how much is the question. Always check gear oil level by the finger test thru the fill hole. After filling best to check this fifteen minutes or more later to let gear oil find its way down to fill all the lower areas. Do not just go by how much you put in.

Glad it was an easy fix. Take your time shifting, even double clutch if need be. That way if you are gentle on it for the next 6,000 to 10,000 miles the syncros will hopefully polish back out and become again a joy to shift.
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[Who.Me?]

[Eric&Barb]

Normal full level is at the bottom of the fill plug hole. Not sure how far down from there that it is too low and damage happens. Not going to try to find out... Best to just keep it topped off.
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[Clara]

I've never measured to fill a tranny. It takes a bit less than a gallon, so I buy a gallon of gear oil. I fill the boxes as I spin the drum, it is full when it bubbles from the tube. Then wheels on and put it on the ground, and fill the center section till it is at the bottom of the fill hole. If it's cold that makes the oil thick. Check the level ~15 min later and top up as needed, till the oil just starts to ooze out of the fill hole.

6K miles is the book interval for checking tranny oil level. But that could be a really long time the way buses are often summer camping cars these days. 6K on a bus driven 10-12K a year is once or twice a year. A slow leak can drop the level and cause harm to the gearbox. If it's driven 1K a year and gear oil not checked for years and years and it gets low, that can kill a tranny.

It's probably good to make gear oil level a yearly spring check.

You should be good

Did you check the steering box oil level? If it stopped dripping it's probably low.
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The Obsolete Air-Cooled Documentation Project http://oacdp.org/

[Who.Me?]

[Who.Me?]

[Eric&Barb]

You should still check your clutch pedal for proper play. Reverse should only be shifted into with VW at full stop and clutch pedal fully depressed, which will fully disengage the transaxle from the engine turning its input shaft.

In other words shifting into reverse as above should be just like shifting into reverse with engine turned off. Without either of the transaxle input or output shafts turning there is no way you can get the reverse to grind when shifting into it.
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[nlorntson]

[Who.Me?]

Thanks.

[Clara]

[Eric&Barb]

[Who.Me?]

Relubed the front end yesterday. There is noticeable play in the lower king pin on the left hand side and adjusting the link pins didn't improve it so I've contacted someone over here who rebuilds steering assemblies. I noticed some play when I did the same last year, but I don't remember it being as obvious.

Should I get both done? The RH side makes a clonk if I lever the wheel up, while it's up on stands, but I there isn't any visibile movement, like there is on the LH side.

Still going to get the wheel alignment checked at the weekend. It's booked in and isn't that expensive, even if I have to get it done again after the assemblies are rebuilt.

Thanks

Andy
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Andy


Looking for info on my truck's history. Are you from Campbell California or nearby. Do you recognise it? ... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=636786

[Eric&Barb]

[Who.Me?]

All done. That goes in the book of shitty jobs I don't want to do again.

Link pins, bushes and bearings were good, but one shim was missing, hence the 'source for early shims thread. King pin bushes were shot though. Really bad on the driver's side and on their way out on the passenger side.

Took me three evenings to get the steering assemblies buttoned back up 'cause I kept making stupid mistakes and having to back-track (forgot to fit the link pin dust caps before re connecting the tie rods, re-connected the tie rods but forgot to put the rubber caps back on etc).

It was hot and cramped in my garage and I was tired. Would probably have been less of a struggle if I'd disconnected the shock absorber.

Road tested this afternoon and it's definitely less sloppy and there's less play, so it was worth the struggle . Going to try a faster run tomorrow to see if it's improved the stability at speed. Still going to get the tracking (alignment) checked though.

'Something' fell off with a clatter during the road test. All the nuts, bolts and grease nipples are still there though and all the split pins are in place, so I think I just left a spare washer sat on something. Scary moment though.
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Andy


Looking for info on my truck's history. Are you from Campbell California or nearby. Do you recognise it? ... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=636786