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My "KASTEN 16"
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Steve M.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 7:33 pm    Post subject: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

Well it's finally arrived!
After too long of a delay waiting on getting a Reimo interior for it.

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Fresh out of the dock at Newark.

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Hold-down straps -used an axle strap on each trailing arm to help anchor it down on the trailer crossing underneath to attach to opposite side. Also used the trailer hitch off the rear to anchor it down at 45° to the trailer for the side loads.

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Initial delights were that it had relatively "new" H4 e-Codes for the headlights. I'd been wanting to see how well they perform with high wattage bulbs and the Headlight Relay kit. The High Beams need some cleaning!
The Hi-Lo lamp also appears to have the adjustable height switch on the dash.(not working at the moment!)

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And the initial WTF moment...how can anyone with common sense do this? The chances of posting to the "Failures, Wrecks and Fires" thread are fairly good if left alone.

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The Fuel lines looked good, but will need to get deeper into the hidden lines. Going to change them anyway so I know the "history" of them.
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Steve M.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 7:44 pm    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

I know some folks are going to want to see this Sliding Door Step.
It pulls open with the door going aft. Adds a little more effort to lock the sliding door open, but might be good for taking off wet sloppy shoes before the final step inside. Not sure if I'll keep it or not.

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The outside of the door mount that holds the pin on an arm.

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This Hook located on the aft arm of the step catches the pin on the bottom of the door.


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Views from the bottom side.

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Showing where it attaches to the door off the rear arm.

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The pivot shafts have grease fittings on them so a good designed assembly.

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The return spring on the forward arm also shows the mounting to the chassis frame.


Last edited by Steve M. on Fri Aug 26, 2016 5:53 pm; edited 4 times in total
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Steve M.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 7:50 pm    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

Another groaning disappointment here with some obvious coolant leakage that needs to be addressed. Time to send that spare 2.1 off to Rocky Jennings maybe?

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Looks to be the hose leaking at one time. Haven't seen any new evidence while running it, but I haven't really run all the way up to operating temps yet.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 8:08 pm    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

Excellent!

Thanks for those detailed pics of the step assembly, always wanted to know how that worked....

I change that rubber S hose from the head to the coolant tower for silicone, usually find that the nipple is encrusted with coolant residue causing leakage.

Good catch on that battery terminal.

Have fun.
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Steve M.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 8:08 pm    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

The negatives which should have been mentioned during the pre-buy inspection are the electric windows, mirrors were not working.

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Checked the star grounds and the usual corrosion needing to be cleaned.

On the plus side I was happy to see that the engine cover is all steel and not the plastic. That's good to prevent the burn-thru from engine fires. It will slow it down long enough to make a difference.
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On the bucket list will be to relocate the VIN data plate up to the windshield area and rivit it down with stainless steel rivits. At least the new location will make it harder to get at by the curb-sucking lowlife waiting for the opportunity to steal it! Leaving it as a screwed on plate is just tempting karma!
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So back off the trailer waiting to be shipped down to Florida. Considering my old neighborhood the vital things have been isolated so it doesn't drive off in the night!
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Last edited by Steve M. on Fri Aug 26, 2016 6:07 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Steve M.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 8:42 pm    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

T3 Pilot wrote:
Excellent!

Thanks for those detailed pics of the step assembly, always wanted to know how that worked....

I change that rubber S hose from the head to the coolant tower for silicone, usually find that the nipple is encrusted with coolant residue causing leakage.

Good catch on that battery terminal.

Have fun.


Thanks for the reply! Glad you liked the step. It is definitely solid when I step on it, but it needs protection from getting hit from below.
I think the project mode thinking has begun.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 9:06 pm    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

Nice New toy Cool Cool !!

A couple things: VIN plates from EU were always riveted, someone disassembled that plate. For the dash VIn, make yourself one out of a strip of aluminum, it's cleaner than putting down the Euro one down Wink

For your spare engine to be rebuilt by RJE, I'm sure you know what type of engine you have, but don't send an MV to be rebuilt while you have a DJ in your van, just saying. It would suck to find it out later Laughing

The blue clamps are not a bodger's job, it's factory Wink

edit:oh, my bad, that comment was referring to the B+ post Laughing
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 9:14 pm    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

Steve M. wrote:
Another groaning disappointment here with some obvious coolant leakage that needs to be addressed. Time to send that spare 2.1 off to Rocky Jennings maybe?

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Looks to be the hose leaking at one time. Haven't seen any new evidence while running it, but I haven't really run all the way up to operating temps yet.


That could be salt corrosion on the aluminum surfaces. That is a common sight on Canadian VWs and not always related to coolant.

Very nice Vanagon btw!
Gruppe B
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 9:26 pm    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

ALIKA T3 wrote:
Nice New toy Cool Cool !!

A couple things: VIN plates from EU were always riveted, someone disassembled that plate. For the dash VIn, make yourself one out of a strip of aluminum, it's cleaner than putting down the Euro one down Wink
yeah, the screws are a bit too obvious aren't they!
Thinking about the Aluminum strip, but thinking I will be pulling the dash to check electrics and the heater assy plus see why the wiper wash nozzles move with the movement of the wipers. Somebody changed them for the 3-hole nozzle and did not get them tight and left the washer hose riding on the wipers reticulating arm. With the dash removed it will be easy to mount it, but as you say the aluminum strip will be a cleaner install.


For your spare engine to be rebuilt by RJE, I'm sure you know what type of engine you have, but don't send an MV to be rebuilt while you have a DJ in your van, just saying. It would suck to find it out later Laughing [color=blue]
Lol yep, but this one is an MV. Now if Rocky were kind enough to send a DJ back...wanting to go 1.9mTDi, but need to locate an engine first when I have time.

[/color]
The blue clamps are not a bodger's job, it's factory Wink uh-huh saw that too, but pretty sure the car was in a VW dealer not long before the PO decided to sell it and thought they might have used original, but who's kidding! Going to change them anyway! Wink

edit:oh, my bad, that comment was referring to the B+ post Laughing


Thanks for the input to straighten out the discrepancy list I'm making! Not going to be a short one!!
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Steve M.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 9:31 pm    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

Gruppe B wrote:


That could be salt corrosion on the aluminum surfaces. That is a common sight on Canadian VWs and not always related to coolant.

Very nice Vanagon btw!
Gruppe B

My first thought was salt. It certainly looks like salt, but only seen on engine and no salt residue on other areas, plus there is that red tint to some of the buildup. Maybe do a taste test tomorrow. Thanks for the compliment too!
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 6:11 pm    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

Trailering it through NYC out onto Long Island was an interesting experience least of all the condition of the roadways around NYC...talk about a rough ride. I was afraid it might bounce off the trailer.

However, I did make it out to an Aunt's house where it was cleverly camouflaged in the driveway. it was getting enough attention from people driving/walking by and most of it was curiosity, but there were a few pairs of eyes seeing potential dollar signs if the opportunity arose. (might just be my imagination, but I grew up there and better to be safe than sorry!)
Hence drawing the wagons into a circle for the night considering how easy they are to steal!
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One of the first things I did was get the Blazecut installed while taking time to go over it during the discovery phase.
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 26, 2016 6:41 pm    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

So a week later it was delivered down to West Palm Beach where I'm currently working.
So the comparison photos of the ride height.

'86 Vanagon vs. Syncro 16

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You can see the difference here, but it doesn't look to be all that much.
I should have painted horizontal lines on the palm tree.

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The height of the mirrors really shows a difference.

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The bumper to bumper shot. The Vanagon is rolling on 205/70R15's and the axle center to fender is about 16.5"
The Syncro is on 215/85R16's and axle to fender is 19".
Ground to axle center is about 12.4" for the Vanagon and about 14.5" for the Syncro on the larger tires.

This was really the first time I drove it aside from on/off the trailer.
The engine has a cold idle problem and surging which I have to look into. It did have the LPG set up in it when I bought it. I had that removed before shipping from Belgium to return it to stock original condition to meet the EPA's 21 yr. rule...go figure... remove a extremely clean fuel system so the vehicle would pass a dirty emissions engine to satisfy a law...
So I figure it was going to run good on one fuel or the other, but perhaps not both depending on who tuned it last. I'll be checking for the vacuum leaks and TP switch operation this weekend if it doesn't rain too much. There did not appear to be an O2 sensor installed, but maybe I missed it.
The idle did not respond to changes in the adjustment screws last week when I was looking it over and the AFM cover has been glued back down so somebody has been in there.

I drove it for about 5 miles and it had no problem accelerating with the large tires even with the poorly running engine.
What felt really ego boosting was watching the drivers of other lesser 4x4's looking at it to see what it was and actually did have one guy roll his window down to ask if it was for sale.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 29, 2016 8:17 am    Post subject: Throttle Body shaft loose-making rubber seals. Reply with quote

Tracking down the surging idle rpm.

Found the Throttle body shaft loose. Two weeks away from getting a rebuilt one from RJE.
So trying just to seal the vacuum leak on the shaft I decided to make some rubber seals to squeeze around the shaft.
If you got a hole punch kit and the rubber gasket material you punch out the center shaft hole larger as when you push the seal down into the hole on the throttle body it is going to get squeezed smaller so it gets snug on the shaft.
I haven't time to re-install it yet and test to see how it works...probably get the rebuilt throttle body first the way things are going here!

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That's a lousy focus, but you get the idea. the black seal in place may have been soft 25 years ago, but maybe it was hard plastic to begin with? The hole on one is not perfectly centered, but if it's close it will work as it gets squeezed.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 4:05 am    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

Steve M. wrote:
So a week later it was delivered down to West Palm Beach

'86 Vanagon vs. Syncro 16

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

You can see the difference here, but it doesn't look to be all that much.
I should have painted horizontal lines on the palm tree.

.

A perfect picture to compare between round H/L & square H/L.
-I like the square one because I have one. Laughing
-The color looks so refreshing.
-I liked the side step mechanism.

For me no comprison between a Vanagon & a Syncro(any Syncro). Smile
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 4:26 am    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

Looks like a nice purchase.

I, too would pop rivet the passenger side VIN tag.

To make a dash VIN plate on my Doka, I simply went to a trophy shop and had the shop engrave me a VIN plate. Took it home, drilled two holes, and riveted it to "correct" location on the dash. (I already had the dash out for another project, so there was no issue with mounting.)
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 4:27 am    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

Looks like a nice purchase.

I too would pop rivet the passenger side VIN tag.

To make a dash VIN plate on my Doka, I simply went to a trophy shop and had the shop engrave me a VIN plate. Took it home, drilled two holes, and riveted it to "correct" location on the dash. (I already had the dash out for another project, so there was no issue with mounting.)
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 6:21 am    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

narendra.vw wrote:


For me no comparison between a Vanagon & a Syncro(any Syncro). Smile


First time I crawled under it it was like "Whoa...this is a serious 4x4!"
It's like comparing an F-16 to an A-10. The A-10 looks like it was built out of scrap steel from a battleship.
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 31, 2016 6:31 am    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

GMByers wrote:
Looks like a nice purchase.

I too would pop rivet the passenger side VIN tag.

To make a dash VIN plate on my Doka, I simply went to a trophy shop and had the shop engrave me a VIN plate. Took it home, drilled two holes, and riveted it to "correct" location on the dash. (I already had the dash out for another project, so there was no issue with mounting.)


Thanks.
I'm definitely going to rivit it down with sst rivits, possibly with some 3M 5200 on the backside. It would be very hard to remove with the 5200 under it! Twisted Evil
I can only think it was taken off to do the paint job.
I may just do the VIN tag in a label just to make it easy to find the VIN number for any "American" looking for it. With the doors locked a cop would never find it if I parked it somewhere it shouldn't be. The aluminum tag sounds better though, but it takes away from the originality of the vehicle.
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 4:17 am    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

So time for an update!
I’ve finally was able to get it in August, but due to work I was a bit limited in my time to get to know the vehicle. It had the surging idle problem and I was able to get that sorted out.
The job suddenly became a bit hectic as it seems to so time to play with it became limited again.
I was able to get a really good idea of what I bought and honestly have a few misgivings about the buying process.
I would not go the same route again.

Where to begin? The wiring harness has so much electrical tape on it that I my eyebrows were raised to say the least. Not just in one spot, but every leg of the harness it looks like. The P.O.’s or mechanics did a botched job of everything that was done in recent years.
On the dashboard there is aftermarket connections for the radio and it looks like there might have been a PA system installed and there are also RCA connectors and associated wiring installed under that auxiliary facia organizer panel mounted on top of the original dash. There was also a musical horn installed…the usual crap that people seem to think is “cool” I guess…I don’t know about the coolness factor-I’d never install it!
Under the dash is just a mess.
I’m kinda thinking that most of the “sale” pictures were of it sitting in a showroom and I’m guessing the dealer blinged it out to get somebody to buy it.
It’s got all the “smoked” lenses for the turn signals and rear lights. In replacing the lenses or for some other reason each wire harness going to the signal lights has been butchered by a less then noteworthy mechanic. All have been cut into and taped over. The headlight wiring too was also destroyed by the same buffoon.
So I’m looking at this and remembering how I found the start battery installed almost touching the seat frame on the POS. Terminal that I went ahead and disconnected the Auxilary Battery to be on the safe side.
It’s got electrical windows…they do not work. Same for the electric remote mirrors. The heater fan works which is a good thing because that needed to be run full blast because the windows don’t go down. The fan motor now that I have used it has the bearing squeaking at low speed so you know what’s going to happen there!
The vent windows open, but the locks are shot on those as well so that is another item on the list.
I don’t know about you guys, but when I go to look at a vehicle to buy I’m going to turn on every switch to make sure that the things work…that obviously did not happen or purposely neglected to be mentioned.
As far as the winch goes mounted underneath I didn’t have time to get under there and drop it out. The electric control cable is missing so I’m assuming it works, but don’t know for sure. There is a connector mounted just on the outside of the Aux. Battery box right on the corner where the post for the front table would go. I do not know what it’s for, but I’m assuming for the winch as there is no other connector plug anywhere…why the winch plug was mounted there…who knows except maybe the electrical genious who had their hands on the rest of the wiring!

One thing that I might have lucked out on is that the H4 Headlamps have the “city light”. So the hole for a “city light” (the European version of parking lights where an independent bulb lights up in the headlamp to have some light coming out of the headlamp when parked.) The front turn signal bulb holders also are new and have an extra bulb mounted aside from the turn signal bulb. So I’m thinking of the possibilities of DRL applications.

I’ve changed out all the smoked indicator lenses for the original yellow lenses. The loss of light using the smoked lens just is not worth the value of the “look” in my opinion.
Also replaced all the indicator bulbs with the GoWesty LED kit.
Also replaced the rear bulb holders with new ones from Van-Café that have the electrical connection in all the bulb sockets just o get the rear fog bulbs working back there for more light. Van-Café only has the left side or was it the right side? Anyway they just have one side, but it is easy to flip it over so it mounts on both left or right and you can just carefully disconnect the spade connectors and reconnect them to light any socket you chose. The spade terminals have a small tab that pops up after it is inserted so they cannot fall out and this has to be pressed down out of the way to remove them. As I said you carefully remove them. You can use a jewelers screwdriver or a small scribe to get into it to press the tab down, but you have to be careful you do not ruin the tab so you can’t use it again.
Regarding Van-Café only having the one side I seem to remember that the rear fog lamp was only mounted on one side on the cars in Europe hence the reason for there being only one side available. I’ll have to go out and double check it later today.

The sliding window installed on the Sliding Door is not original VW. It’s some pos that doesn’t work as well nor look as good.
So that’s going to be replaced as well.
The Sunroof that was installed was sealed down completely for obvious reasons…Florida seems to get a lot of rain and no matter how much sealant they used on it…it’s still leaking! Especially when you make a turn… water just starts dripping on you as rolls around up there!

I didn’t have much time to work on it because of my job, but I did have time for a buying spree!
Van-Café made some money off me as I went nuts buying a lot of new parts I haven’t had to replace yet.
Regarding the leaking Sunroof-screw the aftermarket one. I saw that “Syncrozilla” had an original Doka Sunroof for sale and from the pictures it had a remarkable invention on it-drainage tubes on all four corners! Thank you very much Seth! That’s sitting in the box waiting to be installed.
That pos sliding window is going to go as well. I’m not sure how much they butchered the sliding door when they installed it, but I have the original sliding windows as spares so that will be changed out.

Now I want to put a “pop open” window in one the Drivers side. The one that Reimo sells from reports I have seen doesn’t last long if you’re out doing a round the world bumpy expedition ride.
So that one is out of the question. There is another company in Belgium that has one which has real glass as opposed to the plastic Reimo window. I have to look into that one a bit more.
I did get my hands on a set of Jalouse windows that I might install, but I have to do some more thinking on whether or not I want them installed. I would just want one on the Driver’s side if I did.

There’s some more stuff I bought in anticipation of getting the Syncro where I want it to be, but my brain is full and can’t remember what it was I bought!


REIMO doesn’t answer emails from the states and neither did any of the vendors in the UK or Ireland that sell REIMO parts. I really wanted the REIMO interior cabinets for two reasons. One being I like them better than the Westfalia cabinets and two being that all the Westfalia cabinets if I could find a set are going to be 25 yrs. old and “used”.
So I asked Busman if he could order the REIMO interior for it. He agreed so we went ahead with that purchase. It was good ‘cause because I figured it could be shipped back inside the Syncro as part of it. That part worked out really well aside from the fact that REIMO had to make them and that took about two months longer than expected. I didn’t want them installed because I want to do the “Lizard Skin” sound/thermal insulation before installing them.

The really negative thing is that they are not all the same color…and nothing was said to me about that either just like nothing was said about the windows not working…
The rear closets are white and the kitchen cabinets are brown…
yeah…wtf ! What really sucks is I specified white because I do not like the brown interior at all…What to do about this???

Well things were happening with my job that caused me to be working a lot, but that all had a purpose ‘cause now I have plenty of free time since I lost my job!
Sounds bad, but I’m more than a little happy because I have time off!
The downside is that I also lost my place to sleep!
I was suddenly homeless!
So since a bed is a bed and I could sleep anywhere it was time for a ROAD TRIP!

Where else could a nutcase like me go?

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What's that way over in the corner?

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Check out those highbeams and grill.

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The double glazed windows for being plastic were impressive for how strong they felt. These things were solid!

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That's a seat that looked like it would fit me nicely and it did. For a 1982 seat it was comfortable.

Of course this all had a purpose in mind:
New wire harnesses for under the dash, front headlights, remote mirrors, electric windows, windshield wipers, seat heaters and headlight leveling.
Pretty much everything under the dash is going back to original condition. It's so afu under there that I don't even want to mess with it trying to undo the crap that was done to it.
Some other things too that i could not easy get stateside.

Also, REIMO was only just drive away so went down there and ordered new "white" kitchen cabinets to replace the brown ones which I will probably put up for sale. It will take REIMO some time to make them so I have to go back around the end of November to pick them up. Nice people to deal with in person.

Loving my time off!
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16CVs
Samba Member


Joined: February 22, 2004
Posts: 2778
Location: Redwood City, California
16CVs is offline 

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 8:57 am    Post subject: Re: My "KASTEN 16" Reply with quote

Those blue clamps as noted by someone else are factory, but what that really means is that the fuel lines have probably never been changed. Those are a one time clamp which is usually replaced with a screw type or newer pinch style clamp. In other words" REPLACE YOUR FUEL LINES".
If you do not like the window in that sliding door, then you better buy a new
door as that hole is cut way to big to put a stock window back into. That window is a clamp style for a Cut In style window. Our Vanagons use a rubber set with an offset pinch weld. I would start loving that window as you have a few fish to fry before that window is a priority.
Great looking van otherwise. If the windows do not work at all and make no noise or clicks, you either have a bad fuse or the Load Reduction relay is bad.
Good luck, hopefully your checkbook has been filled up as you are going to need it. If you run into problems with the windows not working there is a lot published here on Samba about them.

Stacy
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