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Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top
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Bman
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 02, 2019 5:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

March 2019

This project is slow, snail paced...but be it known I have not given up yet. Above I said 2018 was the year of my syncro, well it turns out I did not do much of anything, I had to re-roof and side part of the house. LIFE.

Anyway, the good news is I was able to get my 944 cv joints and axles assembled, greased and on the syncro this weekend. I did buy a tube of T3 Techniques NEO grease, super expensive tube...used this mostly around the new cv joints, but had to use the Redline grease to fill the extra. I also added the final pushrod tube cover and had to replace a coolant clamp. Finally I was able to test my battery and it holds a 12.64 V charge and so I popped it in and was able to fire up the syncro.

Here I am in me natural habitat, under the syncro...
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Clean it all up after assembly...
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She moved, rather noisily, but I was able to get the engine idle and warm for at least 45 minutes, drove about 4 miles around town and was able to park it in the backyard:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


i am confident that the engine issues are addressed and I am now moving on to the drivetrain and suspension. I think I am going to have a shop do the heavy lifting of the suspension upgrades, i really want this van to be my daily driver by the end of the year. I am looking to add:

Schwenk syncro.org springs
Bilstein B6 14" performance shocks
T3 Technique front and rear suspension bushings
Burleymotorsports drivetrain bushing kit

after which I will asses the driveshaft, get it on and move onto the fuel gauge not working issue (probably my fuel sender) and the vacuum/locker situation assessment.

Yeah, not done in a long run.
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
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joetiger Premium Member
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2018 1:23 pm    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

I love the pictures of the whole giant side being cut off...Can't wait to see the finished product!
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Joe T.

'86 NAHT Vanagon GL Syncro/ supercharged ABA 2.0
'85 928S
'19 Golf R
'02 Beetle GLS

"get metaphysical with it. if it's simply a means to get to and from places, it will let you down. if it becomes your zen, it can't fail you." -dabaron

"Still, it's good to be afield."--VWagabond
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Bman
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PostPosted: Mon Jun 04, 2018 10:07 am    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

Always trying to move my projects forward, incrementally, but still forward...

For the long game in saving the syncro, I found a donor van with the help of Karl Von Mullendorf in eastern Oregon to harvest rear quarter panels...

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Thanks to a my friend and fellow T3 owner Moe for the hand and great company this weekend too. On to the CV Axle rebuild, 944's for the rear.
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~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
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Bman
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 09, 2018 10:27 am    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

Had a visit from the Excellent Jason Newton, Peace Vans Fame, who helped me run through some quick diagnostics to get Syncro engine back on track. yes long time hiatus as life got in the way.

Jason, checked that the Idle Control Valve was functioning correctly, but the van had a rough cold start and was still not idling comfortably. For the cold start we used the Ohm-meter to determine that ground leads needed to be cahanged for the ECU ground and the fuel pump ground. We heard the ICV clicking so that worked. Idle improved with the ICV unplugged, and so we determined that my Idle Stabilizer Unit was in fact probably shorting out.

Jason also helped me identify a vacumn leak by my driver's side manifold...there was a manifold bolt that was stripped and I thought I could get away with it...but NO, do it right. I took the manifold pipes and seal off, tried to use a longer M8 1.25 thread bolt, but still could not get a torque. So off comes the manifold, I drilled the bolt hole out with a 21/64 drive, tapped the drilled hole and then used a thread fill tool to add a M8/1.25 plug in the new hole, reassembled and using original M8 bolt was able to achieve 15ft/lb torque as per the Bentley. Replaced the manifold seal as well.

Replaced the ISU with a spare I had, and now need to get a new battery to test all....and then onto Axles. 2018 is the year for my Syncro, even though lots of other needs are constantly calling for my $$ as well. Excited to figure this step out though.
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~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
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AtlasShrugged
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 2:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

Your low speed oil pressure warning switch kicks on at about 4.4psi (0.3bar) so 10psi is well above that.

The Bentley says: at oil temperature of 80C (176F) and RPM of
2000, oil pressure should be 2.0 bar (29 psi)

176*F is not too hot for oil (like just warming up) and 29psi should be easy enough to see.
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Bman
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 1:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

AtlasShrugged wrote:
Is 10 psi normal at idle?

Yes..about average pressure..could go lower when very hot.


Sweet, thanks for confirming.
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~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
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AtlasShrugged
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 1:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

Is 10 psi normal at idle?

Yes..about average pressure..could go lower when very hot.
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Bman
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 12:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

Ok on-going idle issue. Van still running rough with a tendency to stall at start up. Seems as if I have a fuel injection issue going on. I first thought of Ken Wilford's "Idle Switch Adjustment for 85-92 Vanagon" article at:

https://www.vanagain.com/articles/page/2/

Perhaps my Throttle Body was out of adjustment, the article says to listen for the switch "clicks" at rest and fully open with engine off. I heard neither on my existing TB. I switched the TB with a spare I had that I could here the "clicks."

After switching, I start the van, still off kilter, and got the engine to rev at 2,500, after a few minutes, break in with no load, I realized that I didn't have to press the gas to keep van at 2,500 rpm. I then would engage the gas pedal to see if I could get an idle around 950, when I did this the idle would fall to 1,100 rpm, but then climb back up to 2,500 rpm repeatedly.

A concurrent issue was that at start up my oil pressure was around 48 psi, as the oil temp increased it would lower...32, 20 and then 10 psi. I have of course learned that this makes sense, as oil becomes thinner the warmer it gets. I do need to get an oil temp gauge hooked up to track along with pressure. However, as the engine went from 2,500 rpm to 1,100 rpm after my gas pedal interruption the oil pressure would fall from 20 plus to 10 psi, again repeatedly. Is this normal behavior? Is 10 psi normal at idle?

My Plan:

1. Disconnect the Idle Control Valve (ICV) wire, the approx 3-4 inch cylinder on top of phelum and see effect on engine surging. If still rough I am told that the Throttle Body, Idle Control Unit (ICU), and/or Air Flow Meter can be worn or bad.
- The ICU is behind the passenger rear light assembly and is a relay like box that is essential in the ignition system. I am confident that mine is OK as we vetted this during my ignition troubles a few posts up.

2. replace the Air Flow Meter, I have a few extra for the 2.1, and I'm sure one is good as I bought it new a decade ago for my Westy and then did a Tiico conversion shortly after. See if change in idle.

3. Throttle Body. If worn gaps can be created that cause air to rush in while plate is closed and results in rough..or surging idle? I will have to see if I have other spares around? Could the replace Tb be in need of an idle switch adjustment? I may try to turn the Allen Screw in the slot on the switch to effect change.

4. Disconnect the ICV, shoot it with electronic cleaner and blow with compressed air, perhaps it was stuck open. See if I have a working spare to swap out, and note idle changes.

If none of the above works, I'm back to my WTF starting point, a usual state in my fight against entropy!

Again, this is my first rebuild and my excruciating efforts to become my own mechanic so my Vans can be self-sustaining. By writing all this out, the job becomes clear and less daunting.

Even after I get the engine dialed in, I did notice a grinding like noise from the front while driving, bearings? I hope bearings and not a front differential issue. regardless, next up will be front end brake, bearing and axle check.
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
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Bman
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 3:08 pm    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

Man, what a long time coming. As a newbie noob to DIY engine rebuild, I guess we must expect that rebuilds and getting a close to entropy vehicle in order and moving again will be the work of gigantic persistence. So be it, so far I have not given up, but I have used the help of others and mechanics to get this far.

So the no start turned out to be my failure to take note of distributor gear placement when rebuilding, needless to say a 180 degree plug turn around got it going. So I took the distributor gear out and replaced according to TDC and timed it as best we could. Engine starts, idles roughly.

On to my oil leaks, the Rocky Jennings oil manifold unit's pipe was leaking between cylinder #3 and #4, loosen, refit and tighten.

Crankshaft oil leak turned out to be my using a 2WD Crankshaft pulley Seal in place of the $60 syncro seal. The syncro seal has some extra rubber on it to fit with the syncro pulley and pressed on race, this allows for engine submerging conditions.

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Yes you can use a 2wd seal on a syncro, but you need to use a 2wd pulley with NO race. Photo below shows the race that I'm talking about:

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I confirmed this by looking at the dirty extra syncro engine I have.

As a side note, the crankshaft pulley bolt does not take a washer when reinstalling, just be sure to torque to 258 lbs as per the Bentley.

Now that my leaks are secure, I tried starting the engine to give it a proper break in period, this was after I drove it gently 2 blocks to mechanic. I'm hoping we did not put a significant load on the engine to effect break in. I tried break in @ 2000 rpm for 20 minutes. during this time the oil pressure remained low (approx. 10-12 psi) and the idiot oil light came on after 10 minutes. I turned the engine off at that point as I'm getting confused again.

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Also, looks like my fuel gauge does not work either!

I'm not sure why this oil pressure is low and why the idiot light comes on, this is what worries me. I used the GoWesty larger volume oil pump in the rebuild and the oil level is within specs. Just trying to get a functional engine at this point. When I'm home later I will check the oil pressure with my own gauge in the engine...

Also I noticed that the front drive/bearings is making a loud-ish noise. I need to check and confirm the front wheel bearings, may be shit after 8 years of immobility.

feel free to offer advice or opinions...
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
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Bman
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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 11:57 am    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

Wildthings wrote:
For shits and grins just rotate the wires 180 around the cap and see what happens, quick and easy to so and undo.


Good idea. Thanks.
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 9:30 am    Post subject: Re: Saving a 1986 Syncro Tin Top Reply with quote

For shits and grins just rotate the wires 180 around the cap and see what happens, quick and easy to so and undo.
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Bman
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PostPosted: Mon May 01, 2017 9:19 am    Post subject: No Start Woes Reply with quote

Well my build continues.

With help, I've been able to get all the glitches out of the ignition system. I replaced the distributor with one of these new dizzies with the Hall Sender in the plug:

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When I first took the cap off I swear the seller had duped me a Hall Sender unit, but everyone assures me this is the new wave of HS in the plug. So in she goes. Try to start...nada. So we then suspect that the wire harness is suffering a bad connection and to be sure we must pull the bastard and run through it all, I was reluctant to do this as it is factory sealed and what could really go wrong there? But alas, the rat chewed wires to the Idle Stabilizer Unit, were repaired incorrectly a few weeks back and so we corrected that mishap. Then to rebundle and re-install:

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Not too hard to wrestle that octopus back in, but it will never sit as it originally did. Go to start....nada still.

At this point my whole ignition system checks out OK, so back to the basics....spark, fuel, air...etc.

1. I pulled plugs #3 and #1 confirmed spark to both.
2. Confirmed #3-4 and #1-2 fuel injectors are squirting pulsed gas ( new RJE rebuilt injectors)
3. Confirmed air coming out of tail pipe, no blockage. Tried to start with snorkel bypass, nada...
4. Tested fuel pressure; steady 34 psi, dropped 1 psi over 10-12 minutes:
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5. Compression test: #3: 85/80psi; #4: 75/94psi; #1: 80psi #2: 80psi
I'm concerned that my compression is so low after a rebuild, but I'm not going to panic as this is probably a "no start" clue. If compression was stopping my starting issue I would expect a zero reading.

The last possibility, or ONLY possibility at this point is that the timing of the engine is all out of whack, we have been messing with the dizzie, and although I am sure we have got it in right, I believe I need to confirm Top Dead Center and proper valve response. I'm not too sure or savvy about that, so I'm going to seek help with the timing to move this forward.

Advice I am getting is to confirm dizzie position and re-adjust the valves. Once I get dizzie and engine at TDC, I'll need to confirm that both valves on #1 are closed....

In the meantime I went ahead and finished sanding, cleaning and painting the front grills:

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Bare Bones Ass:

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_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl


Last edited by Bman on Mon May 01, 2017 11:56 am; edited 1 time in total
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Bman
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 12:53 pm    Post subject: Onward! Reply with quote

In the meantime, I continued to work on all the other details to get the syncro ready to roll. During this rebuild I added the Rocky Jennings oil manifold to re-locate my oil pressure switches top side. This weekend Chris and I installed the wiring for an oil pressure and volt gauge. I am using a T3 Technique dual pod in the cigarette hole on the dash.

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I ran 2 new wires from the engine bay to the front through a corrugated sheath and tied it to the top of the driver's side wire bundles underneath the vehicle. I then ran the wires through the speedometer grommet into the dash area. We ended up using the yellow wire for the oil pressure gauge, the blue wire is an extra wire for a future oil temp gauge, I have a oil temp sensor in the stock high bar place by the water pump, the blue wire can be used to send that signal up to the dash.

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We then built the gauge wiring harness, piggy backing the grounds to each other and the live wires. We then located the ignition activated wires for the hot wire and gauge bulbs:

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Soldered up our connections and double heat wrapped the landings:

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The gauge hot wire was tied into a yellow/black stripe wire off of the ignition switch harness, while the gauge lights were landed to a grey/red wire off of the light switch harness.
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~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
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Bman
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 17, 2017 12:37 pm    Post subject: Saving a Syncro Tintop Reply with quote

This is my new project, and while my Doka is my first love and will always get the best parts, most of my attention and extra cash is now going into this 1986 VW Syncro. I have a history with this particular Syncro and I originally bought it with the body damage seen in the photos, I always hated that damage and wished for a straight body; in fact I originally re-bought this Syncro back from my friend in the thought of using it as a donor for my Doka or 89 Westy conversion. Howeve,r as the project progresses I'm beginning to abandon that plan and I am looking to "restore" this stock 86 Tintop to my idea of the utilitarian vehicle that it is. I do not want a garage queen, but I do want a functional and reliable syncro.

Currently this is what I have:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This is what I'm aiming for:

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A current preview of available syncros on the Samba shows an over priced saturation of Westy Syncros, the $50K vehicle for the, for the $50K camper, and its all good, each his own. However, I tend to inspect the vehicle sales ads for syncros within my DIY price range and so naturally I look at the tintops. I like their simplicity, and the utilitarian people hauler basics. I'm starting to notice that a decent syncro tintop is becoming a rarity on the market, especially those that are stock and under $20K. Are they being gobbled up and converted to campers? Seems to be a logical conclusion to me. I already have my Westy, 1989 my wife's parents were the original owner, I want my own people hauler to take my friends and I to the trailhead, or maybe up the logging roads to go shooting. If there is one thing camping in my Doka has taught me, I don't need a Westy interior to do it. Either way, there seems to be more syncro westys out there now than the tintops; no this is not an official poll, just an observation. All I'm saying is that I'm attracted to this utilitarian platform enough to save this old syncro.

I am changing the title of this thread to reflect more of a total vehicle project build. I am a weekend warrior DIY tinkerer and will do some work myself and out source other work as I go along. You can either like this thread, follow along or ignore it, I'm doing it to "SAVE THE SYNCRO TINTOPS" and to also serve as an online journal for the van.

I originally bought this Syncro in 2003 before the values of the syncros truly sky rocketed. It was my first Vanagon I bought after co-owning my wife's Westy. I knew nothing about syncros then, and rarely did anything other than cosmetic work on my vehicles. I owned the vehicle from 2003 to 2008 when I had to sell it to support the family. Fortunately I sold the syncro to Tallfred, a local friend and was able to keep the rig local. TF ran the van for about 6 months until a head gasket blew and then the van has sat until I started this engine rebuild (approximately 7 years).

prior to the rebuild within 20,000 miles ago I had the following work done:
1. Rear brake shoes and cylinders 4/2003
2. Clutch Slave Cylinder, clutch bearing replaced 5/2003
3. Front differential axles replaced 10/2003
4. New 14" tires 11/2003
5. Front Diff. Oil change 4/2007
6. Power steering rack boots replaced 11/2007

I repurchased the syncro back in late 2014, saved my money and developed the skills (or balls) to attempt my first engine rebuild by summer 2016. Just 2 weeks ago I was able to finally get the rebuilt engine back in:

This was what I started with:

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My final product:

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Going in:

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Stock exhaust:

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I'm pretty happy with the progress, although slow and over numerous weekends. I' don't think its necessary to list all the parts I replaced, but I'll give a snapshot:

Connecting rods and bearings
main bearings
Rocky Jennings rebuilt fuel injectors
All new sensors and pressure switches
piston ring set
Rebuilt VW heads
High Vol. GoWesty oil pump
tune up parts
water pump
All new seals
Rocky Jennings hydraulic lifters
New ground and Alternator wires
Rocky Jennings oil manifold kit
Thermostat
Thatvwguy Hard Start Relay
Radiator and radiator cooling ducts
New rear heater core
Select Coolant Hoses
New battery
driver rear rebuilt CV axle
Powder coating on engine tin, coolant pipes and syncro under carriage protection bars.

I drained all fluids, coolant, gas and oil and replaced with new. I also swapped out the fuel pump (and fuel filter, Whoo Hooo! Syncro FF merit Badge!) with a spare. Part of this project was also discovering and cleaning all known grounds on the vehicle.

The engine went in 2 weeks ago, at about 10 days ago I tried starting the vehicle for the first time, NOPE, no start, no spark from the coil.

I tried swapping coils from among my spares and Doka (known good) and still no spark. I then learned from the Vanagon Owners Group on Facebook that the Hall Sender on the distributor was a vital component of the ignition system and even with a good coil one would not get a spark if the HS was faulty. This information then led me to seek help from an electrician friend to map out and diagnose my ignition troubles. We had 12 volts at the coil, we eventually found 10+ volts at the HS wire harness and we mapped all the connections between the coil/HS to the ECU. We confirmed all wire connections and even swapped the ECU into my wife's 89 for a test. We eventually swapped a spare distributor in, but still no start. By then it started raining and the weekend was done.

This past weekend my friend, Chris returned and we determined the spare dizzie and HS were defective as well. I then swapped out my wife's dizzie and HS to the syncro and tried to start it, still no start. This then led Chris and I on a long diagnostic adventure through most of the day. This is what we know to be true and good:

1. Signal from the ECU to HS is confirmed
2. Fuel pump is pressurizing (ECU working)
3. HS is getting 10+ volts from the ECU along the HS harness
4. ECU is getting 12 volts from the battery with ignition key position
5. ECU is getting a start signal from the ignition switch (pin #1)
6. Pin #25 from the ECU to green wire on coil is a good connection
7. Vanagon Idle Control Unit is working
8. ECU pin #6 to all the sensors is known good.

What we are unsure of is if the ECU is reading a signal from the Hall Sender. At this point we suspect the HS is bad on the original dizzie, but why the 89 dizzie didn't start it is still a mystery?

Here is a photo of Chris setting up his oscilloscope to read the electrical wave patterns. While we failed to get a reading on the syncro we did attach it the the 89 Bluestar and cranked her up, while I can't explain it, the oscilloscope was able to show the repeating pattern of the ECU/HS signals that ran the injectors and sparks. At least we now know what signal we would be looking for through the wiring.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


At this point I have a new distributor and Hall Sender on order. Until we can put that known good part in and continue our tests, we have exhausted all avenues in our quest for a drive-able vehicle with this ignition system.
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl


Last edited by Bman on Mon Apr 17, 2017 1:26 pm; edited 2 times in total
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fraggle00
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2016 11:45 am    Post subject: Re: Another 2.1L Rebuild Reply with quote

I did the same thing with the stripped nuts. The studs ended up fine. Good luck!
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'91 Vanagon Carat
'87 Porsche 928S4 DOWN
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Bman
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Location: South Coast, Oregon
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 06, 2016 4:46 pm    Post subject: Re: Another 2.1L Rebuild Reply with quote

Ok slow moving project, but moving nevertheless. I had a local shop pull the gears and replace my #3 bearing this week. We then assembled and torqued the rods on the crankshaft and put the case together, with other new bearings and assembly grease. WE got confused with the case halves asembly torquing thinking the large case nuts were the M8 and over torqued and stripped the smaller nuts. The case is together with some of the recommended sealant between them. But we have 2 M8 nuts we will need to remove to retorque the case. WE were going to try a nut splitter to get the nuts off and prey our studs are all good.

If the nut splitter does not fit or work does anyone else have a suggestion for this stage of the rebuild?

I am almost at the end play checking stage, I do not have any shims.....what should I order from VC to be ready for that job and how would you proceed?

Thanks,
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
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Bman
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 11:54 am    Post subject: Re: Another 2.1L Rebuild Reply with quote

Thanks for the input, I will recheck my measurements.

I am also realizing that I'm going to have to pull the crankshaft apart to get at the main bearings to replace, my Aircooled friend suggests that I heat the CS up to hot and the gears will expand and then slide off, then I can measure the journals and determine if I need standard or over sized main bearings. i admit I'm nervous about doing it, but perhaps its not as hard as I fear.

What do the WBX re builders do to access these bearings?
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
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AtlasShrugged
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Location: Decatur, Ga. USA
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 11:00 am    Post subject: Re: Another 2.1L Rebuild Reply with quote

On rebuilds I will use an inside micrometer snap gauge to check for ovality of the bore and a micrometer to check the pistons..usually on the lower skirt, compared with the factory recommended measuring point on the piston for wear.

If the bores are not oval, and the pistons size up okay, then I will check the bore to piston clearance with some long ribbon gauges, rather than doing the math..which can fool you sometimes.

.002 to. 004 is a good range for piston to bore..with .004 being very close to limits I like to see. .008 is very loose.

Measure the bore/piston without the rings of course..ribbon gauges can be found here:http://mrotools.com/12025-lang-25-blade-feeler-gauge-12-long.aspx
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 10:47 am    Post subject: Re: Another 2.1L Rebuild Reply with quote

Matching pistons to the cylinders to get more uniform clearances is fine. I would suggest checking the skirt clearances with a feeler gauge though.
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Bman
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 05, 2016 9:59 am    Post subject: Re: Another 2.1L Rebuild Reply with quote

Thanks IdahoDoug, I've used the JBWeld on my bike building products and like it, i'll continue the prep by using it on those coolant connectors.

According to the Specifications that I can find on the 2.1L the Connecting Rod Bearings, journal diameter should be:

2.1647-2.1651 inches

I am at 2.166-2.167 which is pretty damn close, I'm using new VC rebuilt CRs so I'm going to go with this.

We looked at the crankshaft and were trying to determine how easy it would be to get into the main bearings #2 and 4(?), I really don't want to take this crankshaft apart, as the gearing all looks good and there seems to be very little to no play in the journals and bearings. I know a lot of you would argue to do it since I'm here. The problem with being in a rural town is I do not have a lot of shop resources to take this to. I'll look around....but I'm considering moving forward as is.


My bore cylinder measurements were:
3.721
3.723
3.721
3.719

Specs I find call for: 3.701-3.702

My Pistons were measured at:
3.717
3.718
3.718
3.717 all inches

A difference of .002 to .006 inches for piston to cylinder with .008 being the maximum clearance per the VW specs. I figure I would match my largest pistons to largest cylinder for a minimum clearance of .005.

I guess the question is how far do I want to pay for assurances and piece of mind, a lot of work to get to this split case, and yet at the same time there is a limit on how much I can keep throwing at this project in both time and money. A question no one can truly answer but myself.
_________________
~Bryan
1990 Burgandy Tintop (Wife's Daily Driver)
1989 Tiico Westfalia "Taj"
1986 Tintop Syncro (Project)
1984 2WD Doka Transporter (Daily Driver)



2WD Doka build thread: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=503578&highlight=
FaceHook:
https://www.facebook.com/pages/VW-T3-DokaSinka/129026087217120?ref=hl
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