Trouble installing sway bar end link to radius arm [SOLVED].

[fxr]

I'm nearing the end of a complete front suspension overhaul - but have hit a 'gotcha' that I haven't yet dreamt up a work-around for. In the hopes that some here have met this before and have overcome it:

For the life of me, I can't get the sway bar end-links connected to the strut bars. The new OEM rubber bushes need to get seated into the dome-shaped holes in the strut-bars, but that needs pressure. Without them being seated, the threaded end of the end-link isn't long enough to get even half a thread started on the nut.

I've tried all sorts of 'persuasion', using jacks, wedges, modified spring compressors, you name it.

I'll add, the strut bars are already in place, just the sway bar to replace and then the steering knuckle (yes, the LBJ was done at a local machine shop[1]).

Any ideas, however whacky, to get these end-links attached?

[1] For those near Pleasant Hill/Walnut Creek/East SF bay, Timmons of Pleasant Hill were very professional - and did an excellent job in double-quick time. http://www.timmonsrepair.com/volkswagen-repair-service
_________________
Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300

[Skidub]

If you are referring to getting the lower threaded portion of your end link through the front lower control arm so that the bushing as can seat properly, achieve proper sleeve and washer orientation, and get your nut threaded on the end link in order to tighten, but can't as you describe, here was my solution.

1. Bushings, sleeve, washers cleaned and greased and ready to go, upper washer, bushing, and sleeve on end link above control arm - threads aligned or through hole.
2. Ratchet strap wrapped over sway bar next to upper end link and around lower control arm near end link threads / hole, but not in the way.
3. A few clicks on the ratchet strap should give you enough compression so threads to get the lower bushing and washer on, then the nut.
4. Get nut started so that threads are solidly in the nut making sure bushing alignment is setting properly in the indents.
5. Torque - I think to 22 ft-pd. Be careful not to twist your end link off the upper bushing.
6. Take strap off and finish up the other side of the van.

This worked great for me, but not sure it is the correct way to tackle this issue.
_________________
86 Syncro GL Tin Top
Subaru 2.5L Swap
Rblt Transaxle w/ R Locker + Decoupler

[Skidub]

Sorry, slight correction. End link goes through the radius rod base as you mention which on my '86 is bolted to the front lower control arm.
_________________
86 Syncro GL Tin Top
Subaru 2.5L Swap
Rblt Transaxle w/ R Locker + Decoupler

[fxr]

Thanks - It's now way past beer o'clock, otherwise I'd be right out there trying a ratchet strap.

Any other macgyver/shadetree solutions are welcomed too.
_________________
Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300

[T3 Pilot]

The Van is on its wheels on level ground right?
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1988 Vanagon

The most important part in every vehicle is the nut behind the wheel......

[fxr]

The front of the van is on axle stands placed just inboard of the jacking points. It's facing up a gently sloping driveway. The end-links have to be installed before the steering knuckles, so no wheels on it!

This is an early '84 van, so the front suspension is of the earlier type, not withstanding it's got a 22mm sway bar rather than a 19mm one.

There's no way a ratchet strap will help here, that I can see. I might have to make a tool just for this application, which will be a RRPITA.
_________________
Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300

[fxr]

Some pictures that might explain the problem:

Here's the recess (one each side) that the bushes are meant to be squeezed into:

With no compression, there's no way to get a nut on the end:

_________________
Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300

[jacob.]

[fxr]

[jacob.]

[Guybrush]

I just installed a T3 sway bar and lower end link urethane bushings after putting in a new rack and did everything with the wheels on and car on the ground. No problem putting the end links in enough to put the nut on. The stuff should be torqued with the suspension loaded anyway. You can also use a jack under the control arm, but on the ground would be better...

[fxr]

I tried a jack under the lower control arm - enough to just take the load off the axle stands. No dice.

Temporarily I've got the end-links fitted with a bush on top, and big bastard washers underneath, with the nut done up enough to compress the upper bush in.

I'm just taking a break as it's damn hot out there - steering knuckles installed[1], new bearings are in the hubs but hubs not yet mounted. New flexible brake hoses to go on, and new brake pads to fit. Then to bleed the brakes, mount the wheels, and drive around the block where there are loads of DIPs in the road. I curse these normally, but they'll be good to settle things down before checking torques etc.

Then to see if I can get the lower end-link bushes on. Hmm.

[1] The new tie-rod ends from VC don't have holes for a cotter pin, they have a Nyloc nut, so the 'tighten to 30Nm and then onto next hole' instructions won't fly. So I went with what I'd do for a similar sized nut and bolt on the scooter, and shot for 65Nm. It 'felt' about right at least.
_________________
Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300

[fxr]

And it's now well past beer o'clock, so I'm calling it a night. Just the brakes to do up front (and those end-links eventually) but I want to replace the rear flexible brake hoses and the brake/clutch fluid reservoir at the same time. So I'll also be doing the rear suspension bushes. Hopefully by tomorrow afternoon I can drive around the block - we'll see.

Thanks for all the advice chaps - I'll be posting up the end result!
_________________
Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300

[levi]

Even with the weight of the van sitting on the wheel to compress things I have always needed a little help getting that nut on there.

Seems the threads are just barely out of reach, by maybe 1/32".

So what I use is a bar, about 2 foot long, over the sway bar and into a gap of the springs, to lever the sway bar down that last bit so I can get the nut on there.
_________________
One of these days I'm gonna settle down,
but till I do I won't be hangin round.
Going down that long lonesome highway,
gonna see life my way

https://youtu.be/cSrL0BXsO40

[rubbachicken]

this is the easiest and safest way to get where you need to be

radius arm to sway bar
_________________
lucy our westy

lucy's BIG adventure

meet 'burni'


markswagen {mobile mechanic} san diego area all early VW's cared for.

619 201 0310 or 617 935 4182

[Gauche1968]

Did this with PowerFlex bushings no problem. Then, I tried Whiteline bushings on the other van. That was no fun. I had to use a big pry bar to compress the end link down and even then it was close.
_________________
1984 Vanagon GL
1984 Vanagon Westy

[Terry Kay]

Interesting.
A spring compressor to mash the new rubber bushings.

What did you do to get the 4 safety pins outa the way?

From here it looks as though the fingers are a tad too short to grab the washers enough to collapse the bushings down to get the nut started.

Good idea---Maybe--
_________________
T.K.

[T3 Pilot]

Mornin'

Hi OP i was thinking about why those specific bushings were giving you trouble and wondered if the recess the bushing fits into is different from year to year and if the bushings from different suppliers are different diameters.

I have some surplus lower control arms in the shop so I did a quick measurement and here they are:

Cast late model Syncro LCA 38mm diameter bushing recess
Cast late model 2wd LCA 41 mm diameter bushing recess

So check yours and then maybe email your supplier and ask them to measure the OD of the bushing in question.

I have used these
http://www.van-cafe.com/home/van/page_2373_324/urethane_drop_link_bushing_kit.html

on the last two vans I worked on and they dropped right in, wheels on and resting on ramps.
_________________
1988 Vanagon

The most important part in every vehicle is the nut behind the wheel......

[fxr]

I did wonder if the bushes were the wrong size - but on the old bushes the outer bits that weren't squished into the recesses were the same diameter as the new ones. Plus, I can get the upper bushes squeezed in by using washers and the nut underneath, and the lower bushes squeezed in with a jack pushing up - my problem is that I haven't (yet) found a way to get both squeezed in at once.

The VC urethane ones are apparently for a later model than my van.

I hope to have this addressed by the end of today - but as in all things van-wise this may be optimistic.
_________________
Jim Crowther
1984 1.9l EJ22 Westy Wolfsburg Edition
Vespa GTS 300

[fxr]