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Byron's Bay Window
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Gwdghiaguy
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 4:20 pm    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

dmcglynn wrote:
Unrelated, but I like that vise! I've never seen one with graduations on it like that - almost like a mill or something?


harbor freight! and it would be nice but they didn't align the scale properly so it really doesn't work. It shows 4 degrees when it should be 0.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 27, 2016 5:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

G01 search
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search..._chars=200
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Gwdghiaguy
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

Tcash wrote:
G01 search
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search..._chars=200


Thanks so much for the help. Now I just need to figure out what size valves to order when I get to that point.

Got the stuck oil pump out by searching and discovering that I should loosen the nuts above and below the pump and then gently wiggle it out. Worked like a charm.

Next I went to the other end of the engine and removed the flywheel. These holes for the dowel pins aren't supposed to be oval are they?

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and the same thing on the flywheel:

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Please take a look at these and comment. I never had to split the case when I rebuilt my 36hp so this is all new to me.

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And I discovered the hole for the dowel pin for the bearing next to the flywheel also is ovaled out.

Here is something else for your entertainment:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4yRP67GAKL8

thanks for looking and especially for holding my hand as I start on this journey.

Byron
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TomWesty
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

Looks like you found the source of your rattle / grinding sounds.....
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orwell84
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 4:33 pm    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

Someone needs to make a new "Piss on my parade" VW bus video. It was funny the first 15 times, but it's getting old.
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Thu Sep 29, 2016 5:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

The flywheel and crank are junk.
The case may be able to be saved. But a VW machine shop is going to need to inspect it.
Search YouTube for VW thrust repair.

Good luck
Tcash
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Gwdghiaguy
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2016 10:31 am    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

Rimco is done with the case and will be shipping it back soon. All good news from them. Cleaning everything to get ready for my rebuild. I didn't note the orientation of my pistons because I just KNEW there would be arrows on each one pointing to the flywheel. Well here's what I came up with after cleaning lots of carbon off them.

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all four have Std on one end and a small dimple on the other. Can someone help me? or should i just start over with new ones? thanks
byron
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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2016 4:33 pm    Post subject: Wrist Pin Offset Reply with quote

Notches face flywheel
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=6831226#6831226

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Tcash
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 12, 2016 4:38 pm    Post subject: Piston Pin Offset Reply with quote

url=http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=8237667#8237667]Piston Pin Offset[/url]

I could not find a video or good write up. So here you go.

Imagine the piston rocks slightly perpendicular to the piston pin from one side to the other in the cylinder when the piston changes direction.
Now imagine the noise the piston would make slamming into the side of the cylinder when it changes direction on the power stroke .
The offset is built into the piston so it will rock before it changes direction, to prevent piston slap.
With that said, on the horizontally opposed 4 cylinder engine with a clockwise crankshaft rotation.
On the Left 3-4 cylinders the offsets face down.
On the Right 1-2 cylinders the offsets face up.
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So if you end up with pistons with no arrows or markings. Measure the offset and install accordingly.

Tcash
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Gwdghiaguy
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 13, 2016 3:59 am    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

Thank you Tcash! I searched for piston dimple and piston notch but didn't come up with the result you did. Engine case should be back next week then the real fun starts. I'll post pictures so you guys can mock me. Very Happy

byron
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Gwdghiaguy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 3:38 am    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

Engine is together and ready to go back in but wanted to get the brakes done first. With the engine out of the way I have lots of room to work on the new brake lines in the rear that I may have buggered up while installing them. They don't leak. My problem is elsewhere.

Replaced all the soft brake lines and the hard ones that were leaking. The remaining hard lines are in good shape. All new slave cylinders. New Varga MC. Front pads had lots of life left so I just cleaned everything up there. New brake booster. New reservoirs. Followed the Bentley procedure for bleeding-could not get fluid to the front drivers side bleeder. Discovered I wasn't getting fluid to the new soft line there. Disconnected that hard line from the brass junction thingy and it's clear. And now I don't get fluid from the back port on the the MC (which feeds the front brakes). The connecting rod from the brake booster doesn't seem to be too tight. Plenty of play in the brake pedal. Maybe the MC is bad. Took it off and replaced it with the original VW one. It leaks into the booster. Took it off and put it in a zip lock bag to play with some rainy day. Checked the new one. It squirts fluid from both ports. Put it back on. Left both lines loose and filled the reservoir. Plenty of drips from the front port and nothing from the rear. Went ahead and bled the system anyway with good results from everything except the front driver side again. I've spent all my free time the past 2 weeks messing with this and it's lost it's charm. And I read almost every post from all five pages of the search results for "master cylinder". I even PM'd busdaddy because I didn't want to clutter up the joint with yet another brake discussion. He said: "Try letting it sit a while so gravity can get some fluid into the master. That 3" of freeplay is an issue, but before you go adjusting the rod confirm the master cylinder isn't stuck down inside it's bore and not returning." Did that. Nothing from the rear port.

If it's defective why would it squirt fluid off the bus but not installed? Why am I getting fluid to the front passenger side brakes but not the driver side? Why do I get fluid at all to the front passenger side when I get no drips from the port on the master cylinder? Replacing the entire brake system on my 57 bug was easy compared to this. Please help. Thanks
Byron
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lil-jinx
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 5:40 am    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

Try loosening or removing the brake light switch at the back of mc and allow brake fluid to flow thru.Don't let the reservior run dry,if fluid don't run out then look for problem with mc or brake fluid supply.If all good there then back out bleeder at caliper and leave it until fluid runs out.
If you have fluid,under pressure, on one side and not the other,then the fault must be in the lines or caliper from the junction block out.keep fluid in the reservior!
Good luck;nelson
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Gwdghiaguy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 8:17 am    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

lil-jinx wrote:
Try loosening or removing the brake light switch at the back of mc and allow brake fluid to flow thru.


I'll give that a try and report back. thanks for the input! byron
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Gwdghiaguy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 2:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

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Reservoir is full. I should have fluid pouring out of this port when the brake is depressed, right?
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lil-jinx
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 3:06 pm    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

There should be fluid there at all times,try removing the cover from the reservoir,it may be vacuum locked,there is something preventing the fluid from flowing.The piston in the mc may not be going back far enough and blocking the port from the reservoir,but check the supply from the top down to the mc.
Also check the linkage to the booster,it needs a little freeplay,and also the push rod from the booster to the mc,you could just diconnect the peddle linkage check for flow,if still no flow try backing off the bolts from mc to the booster and slightly separate them,again check for flow.
If it works on the bench but not when installed I would suspect push rod adjustment.
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Gwdghiaguy
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 6:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

lil-jinx wrote:
The piston in the mc may not be going back far enough and blocking the port from the reservoir,but check the supply from the top down to the mc. If it works on the bench but not when installed I would suspect push rod adjustment.


Thank you, lil-jinx. It was the push rod. I took the mc off (for the 4th time) and when I had it about an eighth inch away from the booster fluid poured out of the open switch port. Adjusted it all the way in, made a cork gasket and put it all back together without tightening the mc nuts too hard. I'm golden now. And the problem with the driver side not getting fluid--always check to make sure the old bleeders are not stopped up. Embarassed I'll be back when the engine is going in because I'm sure I will have issues.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 27, 2017 6:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

Glad I could help,now you have to wash all that brake fluid off.
Have fun ;Nelson
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exotic plants
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PostPosted: Sun May 21, 2017 6:42 am    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

Wow that engine was tired. Sorry Byron I had no idea? Glad you now have the engine and brakes sorted. Any updates?
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Gwdghiaguy
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PostPosted: Sun May 21, 2017 11:43 am    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

exotic plants wrote:
Wow that engine was tired. Sorry Byron I had no idea? Glad you now have the engine and brakes sorted. Any updates?


Yes it was tired but I had a great time rebuilding it; learned a whole lot, spent some money, spent hours using the samba search engine, and it runs!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EePDW_N6xIQ

I got it out of the shop last week

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and it has been my daily driver for the past two weeks.

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The dogs are ready to ride!

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My 5 year old niece needs to deal with her road rage issues:

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From 20 yards away it really looks nice:

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And if you get up close, here are her best features: newly painted wheels, new tires, and new hubcaps (and I know I'll get flamed for having the "wrong" tires on it. sorry but I got a great deal on these so I went with it):

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Some random things if anyone wants to chime in: I've gone through 2 idle cut off solenoids. Took the one off the ghia and now that one has gone bad too. I was disappointed to find an oil leak in my newly rebuilt motor; couple of drops every day. I know it shouldn't do that so I guess I screwed up somewhere. I think it may be a hairline crack somewhere. I'll just deal with it and keep cardboard under it when it's in the shop.

It runs very strong and pulls a lot better than I thought it would. Replacing all the shifter components was a good thing to do; shifts so smoothly. It wanders all over the road and I plan to replace the drag link next week. That seems to be where most of the slop is. New seat belts are coming too. Thanks for asking and don't feel guilty about the engine--I went into this with my eyes wide open! How's Cinderella coming?

byron
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TomWesty
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PostPosted: Sun May 21, 2017 8:19 pm    Post subject: Re: Byron's Bay Window Reply with quote

Not trying to be an arse or flame you for your tire choice, but your wandering issue could very well be tire related as well. Only tires rated for the load of a heavy bus are going to perform well. Load range D tires on my '71 made a huge difference in the stability of my bus. I live in the windiest part of the U.S. and wouldn't run anything less now.
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