It started with a thump... AAZ diesel help needed

[crazyvwvanman]

Look at the dash main fuse/relay panel. In relay socket #3 is the coolant level warning relay. It should have a large "43" or "42" stamped on the end.

WHILE the led is constantly blinking, yank that relay out.
Did the blinking cease or did it continue???

The answer will lead to the diagnosis.

Mark

[Team WorldTour]

Ok, I will give that a try in the morning (it's 21:10 right..... now.).
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[?Waldo?]

[Team WorldTour]

[Waldi]

I would not worry alot about the light. seems a bad connection.
Try to short the connector from the sensor on the water deposit with a wire.
Light should be off.

You say, your pump timing is at 0. How you know it ? Otherwise, who is setting the pump timing at 0 ?
If it is realy at 0, it doesnt wonder, that the car start only with cold start, as it set the timing 0.3-0,4 in advance.

Than i see on one of your pics a strange part i never seen before. Looks like a crank sprocket holder. Could this part have destroyed your belt ?

[Team WorldTour]

No. That's part of the main seal.
I say my timing is at 'zero', because the cam, crank and pump are all correctly set (as per the Bentley) with the correct tools before the belt was tightened.

I've just ordered the dial gauge you PM'ed me the link to.
It should be here before the end of the week.
THEN I will have all the tools I need to do the job right.
(I have the belt gauge on the way too.)
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[?Waldo?]

The comment that the cam was 'set to the correct time before the belt was tightened' has me a little concerned. The cam sprocket should still be able to rotate while the tensioner is tensioned. If the cam sprocket bolt is tightened before the tensioner, then any slack in the belt between the crank, pump and cam will cause the cam timing to be retarded during operation.

It would be a very good idea to rotate only CW back to TDC for #1 and double check to make sure that the cam timing is exactly correct.

[Team WorldTour]

[Waldi]

Ok, Nico, i understand, but you cannot set the pump even to zero without the timing gauge you have ordered.

This screwed part has nothing to do with a seal.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/1559501.jpg

[Team WorldTour]

[Waldi]

Sorry, you are right.
It was looking strage for me because of the schadows and my tab.

Yeah, i understood what you mean with 0.
Thats why i am telling you, that having the tool into the pump sprocket does not mean anything about the timing of the pump. Just the correct setting of the belt on pump, crank, valve shaft.
The timing now can be whatever. Very possible oround 0

[?Waldo?]

[Waldi]

It is right what Andrew says.
The way is to tight the cam screw to a point where the sprocket still can move, tight the belt, tight the cam screw with torque than turn the engine 3-5 times with a ring key on the crank, and after tight the belt again correctly if needed.
It is better to have the cam minimum in davance than retarded.

[Team WorldTour]

I DO understand what both of you are saying.
This is the way I did the work.
Waldi- I understand what you say about timing the pump, I'm just amazed between how far the pump was out (and it ran), and how it is now (and it runs!).

The gauge is set to arrive Wed or Thurs.
I know what Bentley says about JX pump setting.
Is AAZ any different?
I also have a K14 turbo.
How do I go about setting (checking) it to the magical 1 bar?
There is the blow-off valve that routes back into the intake, but it has no settings, no dial to show how light or heavy the resistance is.
Am I missing something?
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[?Waldo?]

[Team WorldTour]

I tightened the cam bolt after the tensioner bolt.
This is the way I was taught to do it.
And it seems logical to me as well.
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[?Waldo?]

Very good.

[Team WorldTour]

[Waldi]

You need a turbo pressure gauge.
You need to put a second spring into the blowoff or a stronger one if you have the JX intake. Edit: Or you block it fully in some way.
You indrease the pressure when you turn the screw on the wastegate in.
For this you need a 3mm "imbus" a 10mm "gekröpften Ring".
Loose the 10mm screw, hold the screw with the ring key and trun the screw 2 revs in. Drive and check pressure. Every wastegate is a bit different, i think you will need 4 revs or more.

[?Waldo?]