Yikes! I bought a '74 Super!!

[vamram]

Tim, I measured it on two different driveways and got pretty much the same results. I *think* the driveways were pretty flat. I may take it to a 3rd before I actually break it down again.

To reiterate, it's Definitely a softer ride than the urethane bushings. Anybody need a set of spring plate/torsion bar red urethane bushings? Yours for the price of shipping!

Victor
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'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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Save the Supers!!

[vamram]

I have a couple of updates, about the height and the timing.

Finally got the rear height fixed, I think.

And I swapped in the 5.5" sport rims for the rear and I like the stance much more than with the 4.5" rims. The "new" rims fill out the wheel well very nicely I think. Oh - and I decided to go w/the Silver rims rather
than matching the car's Marina Blue. That might change in the future....

I have one problem though that I hope someone w/more knowledge can chime in on: I stripped two of the spring-plate cover bolts on the left rear. I think they were pretty much shot anyway, but this 3rd reset did them in. I was hoping only the bolts were stripped and picked up a set of replacements from Top Line rated at 12.x strength, but it turns out that the frame threads are stripped. I could get new bolts turned in hand tight w/the ratchet but when I tried to torque them down the bolt ended up turning in the hole w/out ever locking down. There's only room to put a nut in back on one of these because the structure of the frame doesn't allow access to the top two, and one of the stripped ones is up there.

Is there a way to "chase" these threads so that the new bolts can actually grab and hold? Or am I stuck w/a spring plate only held on w/only 2 fully torqued down bolts?

As for the timing, I'm using a rebuilt 205c DVDA I bought from Bill, running it as an SVDA since my Bocar doesn't have the bigger throttle plate hole needed for the DVDA. I had timed it at 7.5*, but decided to do the 009 style hoses-plugged max- advance to 30* @3.+k RPM. After setting it this way, the idle timing jumped to 13.6*, total advance w/the advance host connected 36*. I know the advice on here when timing to max advance w/the hoses plugged is to let the idle timing fall where it will, but this seems high. I left it though, because the max advance I'm getting WITH the vacuum advance connected is 36*. Only 6* of advance seems a little low...

Any suggestions on the stripped threads or the timing?

Thanks!

Victor
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[calvinater]

Loctite/permatex makes a thread repair /restore kit. (PC 3967 ). Says max torque 12mm grade 8.8. 193 inch/pounds. "Use only on 8.8 metric ". Doesnt sound strong enough. ? Just a thought.
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"Albatross"!

[calvinater]

Nah. Forget that stuff too weak. My bad
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[Rome]

[vamram]

Rome, what about using an M10 x 1.5 thread chaser like to fix them?

Or do I need instead an M12 chaser? And if I go up to M12, can I open the whole w/an M12 thread chaser or does it have to be drilled open 1st?

This place seems to carry both, but I'm not sure how I'd reach two of the holes and be able to turn the chaser.

https://drillsandcutters.com/carbon-steel-hand-tap-sets-metric/
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[Rome]

A thread chaser or better yet, an actual tap of the same size as the original hole (M10 x 1.5) could bring back/re-form some of the threads, but the risk is that the currently stripped threads in the frame might have actual metal missing. The chaser/tap would re-form any existing metal but the full strength would not be there any more if the metal is not there for the bolt's threads to grip. You could certainly try that first, since it would be the least complicated repair. Use lubricating oil on the tap threads as you progress, and back out the tap every 2 turns so that you back out and remove the cutting "swarf" from the threads. Snug up on the torque for the M10 bolt starting at 10, then going up maybe 3 or 4 lb. ft until you get to 25. Might even want to stop at 20 since you have 2 bolts that are OK and achieved the 25 lb. ft.

You access the area by removing the lower approx. 4 or 5 bolts of the fender and removing the running board rear bolt, and pulling the bottom part of the fender away from the body. For re-tapping the original holes, you could get away with keeping the original bushing cover in place. You might also need an extension for the tap end where you attach the handle to clear the overhanging body.

If this technique strips the threads again in the frame before you get to the 25 lb. ft, then you'd need to try an alternative. With those, drilling and tapping for the larger bolts or for the M10 helicoil, you should remove the bushing cover, and cover up the end of the torsion bar as well as the torsion bar tunnel so that no drilling metal debris can get in there. With this method, yes, you first drill the damaged hole in the frame with a larger drill bit that is slightly smaller than the intended tap. The larger drill bit will drill out the damaged threads and extend outwards into fresh metal. Then you slowly turn the tap in the newly opened hole to create the threads, no more than 1 turn at a time. Back out the tap to reverse out the metal that is cut from the frame in between the new threads, clean off the tap, lube with oil and continue one or two turns. Repeat until you are completely through the frame metal and you can turn the tap easily with your hand. Then you know the new bolt will also turn freely. This is absolutely basic thread-cutting practice which you can look up on the internet.

[vamram]

Rome, thanks for the great detailed procedure. Looks like I have the next big project on my hands. Your text had one especially revealing moment for me....

Now I have a confession to make. After 5+ years of learning to work on my own Bug, I still manage to have self inflicted oh-shit moments. Some moments of revelation feels like when Luke discovers Leah is his sister, Charleston Heston discovers the truth about silent green. The revealing moment was this:

Snug up on the torque for the M10 bolt starting at 10, then going up maybe 3 or 4 lb. ft until you get to 25. Might even want to stop at 20 since you have 2 bolts that are OK and achieved the 25 lb. ft.

Guess who overtorqued the bushing cover bolts...? By how much u ask...? Well let's just say that I think I'm lucky I didn't shear them off.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[Rome]

I checked my orange Bentley repair manual before I posted my response above. If you casually look at the rear axle section torque specs and find the "trailing arm bolts", the torque on them is 80 ft. lb. But those are shown to be M12, and are the 3 big ones which hold the rear axle diagonal arm to the back end of the trailing arm. M12 is the size of the wheel lug bolt on 5-bolt Type 1 wheels so it gives you an idea of the relative size bolt and the torque such a size can utilize. The torque chart then shows "torsion cover" or similar, using the M10 bolt, and gives that torque as 25 ft. lb. That is the component you're dealing with.

This torque mis-read happened to me as well about 30 yrs ago. The M10 bolt's head snapped off the shank after I put 3x the correct torque on it. I "think" I drilled out the bolt shank from the frame, retapped the hole for the M10 bolt, and utilized a new M10 bolt. Tedious work. I was doing a chassis swap and replaced the bushings, so at least the work access was easy without the body positioned on top.

[vamram]

[allsidius]

[wcfvw69]

[Buggeee]

[vamram]

Thanks Buggee - good idea to include that reference in this thread as well.
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Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[garyt]

Agree also about body color wheels too.
I also dislike two tone beetle body colors.

[vamram]

I decided to add a rear sway bar and know I should've replaced the pivot bolt bushings in the 1st place when I did the torsion bushings...but since i've proven time and again that I'm a glutton for punishment, I didn't and here I am again.

I also replaced the rear soft brake lines which you might be able to tell in the pivot bolt picture. the old ones were shot and I could tell by the pedal all was not right.

Next, I'll be replacing all of the old urethane bushings in the front end and installing 1" lowering springs. I got the bushing kit from Topline but the springs from CIP1.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[Tim Donahoe]

Let's us know how it does on turns, Victor.

Tim
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Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[vamram]

Tim,

I can already tell you that it will be an improvement over uneven/rough pavement and on turns. I've had the same rear sway bar on my '72 for a number of years now as well as top line sport springs on an otherwise stock Super. Definitely an improvement. I want that same handling on my '74 though I'm guessing it may feel different since the '74 has the 2-bolt struts and the tires I think are a tad further out than on the '72.

It'll be 2-3 weeks before I'm done with the front freshening up and can drive it but I will definitely post back my experience.

Victor
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[Epilog79]

I too put in the rear sway bar on my 79 super convertible. I had been looking at that upgrade for years and just didn't know if it was worth the money, time and effort. Wow, was I surprised at the difference. I felt the difference not just in the turns, but it just made the car feel tighter, more planted. Was super easy to install. I too have been upgrading the suspension components over the years. Topline adjustable struts with the red tapered springs. It is set 2 inches down. Bigger front sway bar, and strut brace.
Good luck with your upgrades.

[vamram]

I got all of the suspension done. All new top line bushing kit up front, new 1" drop strut springs from cip1, re-packed rear and front bearings, new rear nexen tires, and new top line pivot bushings in the trailing arm. One note about the top line pivot bushings - they're black urethane and designed to take the place of the interior of the stock rubber bushing. Not knowing this to start, since the red ones I used on my '72 replace the complete bushing, I removed the complete old factory bushing and destroyed it in the process. Fortunately I had a pair of new stock style ones from when I replaced the ones on my '72 four years ago. I ruined the 1st pair trying to press them in and went urethane and threw the 2nd pair on the parts stash. Found and pressed them in without destroying them (I work"smarter now ), removed the interior piece, and the top line ones were a perfect fit. The car drives great now. Have to get the alignment tweaked cuz it's pulling left a bit.

I also swapped put my beloved 34-3 Bocar for the 34-3 German soles rebuilt by volkzbitz 3 years or so back. Runs fantastic. Caravaned to the Bug Out south of Fredericksburg, VA today with a few of the local AirCooled Hooligans dudes, 65 miles each, purred like a kitten both ways, oil temps a healthy 190-200 at the end of each leg. Here's a pic from the show, next to another sweet yellow '73 Super.
H

Next - gauges, radio, and steering box adjustment.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!