Yikes! I bought a '74 Super!!

[vamram]

[vamram]

Decided to start w/the driver side window scraper and felt runner replacement. Removed the old components to find some surface rust and pitting along the outer channel.

Here's the worst of it.

I took a wire wheel to it and then treated it with the Prep & Etch phosphorous product. I'll hit it again tonight, and then tomorrow probably put a thin layer of bondo over this section followed by primer and paint. I have a rattle can of the marina blue I bought from one of the online paint shops, I forget which one.

Looks like it had some bondo repair in the distant past.
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'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
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Save the Supers!!

[Tim Donahoe]

With the glass and all out, be sure to grease (spray with a nozzle) and/or oil all lock mechanism parts. Anything that moves in there. Use a mirror to see all the moving parts of the lock/latch. Lots of moving parts in there. I also cleaned up my window winder and greased it well.

Tap the channel back in really well, using a suitably-sized tool that won’t screw up the inside of the channel. If not seated all the way, the window is a bitch to wind up. With new scrapers, it’s more difficult, anyway, so use real talc on the window for a few weeks.

Have fun putting in that inner scraper without breaking off one of the four tabs. Since it goes in after the outer scraper, it’s a lot more difficult to fit.

This last: it looks as though your felt is missing from the interior door area, where the thin rod that operates the lock rubs. I had to go to a fabric store to find the thicker felt, and I ended up buying a felt-like card which was stiffer (although soft enough to keep the rod from rattling). A little upholstery glue works well to keep it in place.

Tim
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Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[vamram]

Door rust remediation/paint fix came out pretty nicely I think. I still have to grease up the lock mechanism and re-assemble. Later this week.

Engine's out again, doesn't look too bad inside, a bit of a dirty film but no oil anywhere. I'm going to clean and rebuild the TO bearing.

Not sure what to make of all the surface rust. It was like this when I first got it if you look back at the beginning of this thread. Seeing as there's no oil, any reason to remove the clutch and flywheel other than "because I'm there?"

No signs in driving it that there's an clutch issue.

Lastly, I'm having a dilemma about the rear tranny mount. I don't have any screws long enough to fully tighten down the nuts. Also, the engine will sit at least 1/4" lower on the pre-'73 mount. What do you guys recommend...? A trip to the hardware store I guess.

_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[Tim Donahoe]

I wonder what’s causing the rust? I have none.

The repair at the door sill looks great.

Tim
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Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[vamram]

Thanks, Tim, I am happy w/it. I'm encouraged to tackle a couple of other suspect spots on the rear driver fender.

I picked up perfectly sized stainless steel bolts for the mounts and got them on. One note about this - these are super hard, much harder even than urethane ones. I'm thinking that I will not like the transfer of sound and possibly vibration into the car when driving. The front mount is stock, so perhaps that will limit the vibration thru the shifter. VEREMOS.

The TO is an original german Sachs, feels good, so I'm rebuilding it instead of replacing it.

Next on the agenda:

- spring cleaning: pressure wash the underside of winter salt and all that grease from the CV joint mishap last fall
- treat all underside surface rust resulting from winter exposure, primer, paint, and undercoat or fluid film treatment where appropriate
- clean and repaint rear and front engine tin; clean other tins, maybe some touch up paint; not trying to make it look like Bill's engine bay!!
- replace intake boot, including my makeshift Copper RTV one that held up perfectly well

I'm also debating whether or not to replace the firewall. The one I installed just over a year ago is of suspect quality from the looks of its condition after a year plus of driving. But that's more $$$$...

The work never ends!!
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[Tim Donahoe]

Victor, I cleaned, sanded (a little), and repainted my front, and rear, tins, as well as my fan shroud. It really cleans up the engine compartment. The next time I pull the engine, I’ll get the upper cylinder tins.

By the way, I forgot his name, but he sells repo 1974 stickers for the fan shrouds. You know, the white sticker with red lettering. It really finishes off the appearance.

I’ll be surprised to hear how much vibration you get at the shifter .

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[vamram]

On recommendations from the Stupid Question Thread, I'll be replacing this guy. Looks like the teeth tips are ground/melted. Shame, it's an original German Sachs.

And this guys as well is getting replaced, although it doesn't look to bad. Or does it...?

Is there any reason to automatically replace the gland nut?
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[wcfvw69]

The metal looks rusty to me, not dust covered.

I've never replaced a glad nut. I reuse them. I wouldn't trust any "new" gland nuts if they were made in China.
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[mukluk]

The clutch fingers don't look melted or ground down to me, just a bit of honest wear that's still usable. I'd flip the pressure plate over and take a look at the friction surface that contacts the disc -- if the surface still looks good and isn't gouged or discoloured, I wouldn't hesitate to continue running it based on your description of it working fine without any issues. I would replace the disc however as that one looks like it may have been contaminated.
_________________
1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[vamram]

No gouges, but odd colorations. Does this mean it's been over heated?
Oh and it's Brazilian sachs, not German.

_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[Tim Donahoe]

Victor, those teeth on the diaphragm look worn to me. Mine has a lot more edge to it. I’d replace it. Nothing special about a Sachs Brazil plate ....

Also, anytime I have any greasy substance on my driven plate, I replace it. They’re only about $35.00.

I’ve used two different new (probably Chinese) gland nuts on my car, and I’ve had no quality issues. The first one, I had tightened it so much that it broke two 1/2 inch tools while trying to remove it; but, I also bunged up the edges of the nut as the socket wrenched off it, so I bought a new one. I surely put 350 + ft. lbs. on the first one and it didn’t break.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[mukluk]

[vamram]

Well, I've gotten advice to reuse and replace it. I decided ti replace it. Ordered new spring plate and disk today.

Now I'll clean up the underside and finish reassembling the door while I wait.

[EDIT ] What do u see that leads u to conclude that it's toast?
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[mukluk]

[vamram]

Mukluk, thanks for explaining that. Gives me a much better understanding of what I'm looking at.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[Tim Donahoe]

Victor, I also prefer the clutch discs with the springs.

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[vamram]

Yep, that's the one I ordered.
_________________
Eventually, "we are what we pretend to be.’”
Give peace a chance - Stop Russian-Soviet Aggression!!

'74 Super 9/16 - present, in refurb process.
'73 Super - 6/18 - Present - Daily Driver!
'75 Super Le Grande...waiting it's turn in line behind '74.
Click to view image
Save the Supers!!

[Tim Donahoe]

It’s kind of weird about that rust on the clutch. In the “Stupid” thread, muk said it looked normal, but I’ve never had the same rust issues on the pressure plate, or driven disc. Maybe it’s because I don’t live in a humid area; but my pressure plate has a VW stamped on it, so it must be, either old, or the original. No rust at all.

I can only assume, Victor, that your radiator is leaking .

Tim
_________________
Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[whobba]

I see the seatbelt interlock warning page in the manual in your pic. '74's are weird with that interlock system. Seems like everyone disabled them at one time or another.