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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5802
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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 Posted: Mon Mar 20, 2017 8:15 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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| bikesndbugs wrote: |
now on to shocks. I need new ones in the front. currently im running the old rears and the new fronts i bought are on the rear. they are at max travel at ride height because of my extended shock mount arms. |
So right now, the front shock towers are stock link pin, right?
The front trailing arms are stock with extended lower shock mounts on the arms, right?
That's a combo that really doesn't work together. The extended mounts move the lower mount farther away from the top mount at droop, and closer at bump. Longer shocks would help at droop, but would bottom out even earlier at bump.
It would have been better to install front lower arms without the extended mounts until you add taller towers. I know you don't have a pile of parts laying around or a pile of money to buy a pile of parts. Really, I get that.
| bikesndbugs wrote: |
| When i put the cage in i'll change the upper shock mount . |
Change the rear mounts by putting them on the cage? Or do you mean fabbing tubular front upper mounts off the new front frame structure that's part of the cage?
| bikesndbugs wrote: |
| Based on what youve said 10" is max linkpin leaves travel so considering my shock is at the bottom of the trailing arm the travel ratio should be approximately 1 to 1 so 10" shock. Maybe some kyb gas adjusts. |
With stock length front trailing arms, 10" is about the max travel the link pins and the spindle will allow Whether you are using stock links and spindles, or using Combo Links. basic geometry is the limiting factor. Longer arms allow more wheel travel.
Yup...If the lower shock mount is on the lower arm even with or close to the link pin...the travel ratio will be 1:1. IF you keep the arms with the extended mounts, you will need what are called 10" shock towers to achieve that much travel. Whether you achieve that by installing a beam with 10" towers, or fabricate your own tall towers, or fab mounts off the front cagework, the upper mounts will need to be 13 or 14 inches above (and behind) the top of the upper beam tube as is done on the Warrior 10" tower beams.
If you switch your arms to some with stock shock mounts, then you can get 10" of travel with 8" towers and 8" travel shocks like me. While the conventional wisdom is that mounting the shock as close to the link pin as you can is best for best shock control, I've been extremely happy with the front on both of my cars and have never bottomed either of them out, even pre-running like I'm racing at places like Barstow. I've slammed the CRAP out of the rear...but not the front on either.
You do your own how you see fit and how you can afford. But combine parts that work together or you won't be happy.
My car (both my Baja and my Hi Jumper buggy) with the original front arms and stock lower shock mounts and 8" travel shock has 10.25" of wheel travel.
| bikesndbugs wrote: |
| my friend found another of the bilsteins that i snapped so maybe those. He also found 3 more with snapped shafts so im assuming they do that alot. maybe not a good idea to run. A buddy of mine works with short course trucks and hate bilstien because they snap to easily. |
My experience with a wide variety of brands of modern offroad shocks, is that if the shafts are snapping, especially a top brand like Bilstein, the suspension is not properly cycled to work with those shocks. Too much bump or droop travel for the shock length, or bad angles on the shocks. And putting Bilstein shocks on a suspension cycled for Fox or King (or vice-versa) is likely to have trouble with the shocks.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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pullstart
Samba Member
Joined: August 23, 2016
Posts: 599
Location: Middleville, MI
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| Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 4:24 am Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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Dusty, do you by chance have any walk around videos or detailed pictures of your rides? Thanks for all your wisdom on so many topics!
_________________
4 seater Appletree buggy, road legal with 002 IRS, 3x3 Appletree kit, 6" over Dan's beam with 10" towers and Fox 2.0 shocks, '00 Subaru EJ25 with KEP stage 3 clutch and KEP adapter plate.
my build page: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=662104&start=0 |
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bikesndbugs
Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2015
Posts: 218
Location: san diego
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| Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 10:06 am Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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| pullstart wrote: |
| Dusty, do you by chance have any walk around videos or detailed pictures of your rides? Thanks for all your wisdom on so many topics! |
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=127497&start=15
I have it bookmarked as i reference it a lot.
| dustymojave wrote: |
bikesndbugs wrote:
now on to shocks. I need new ones in the front. currently im running the old rears and the new fronts i bought are on the rear. they are at max travel at ride height because of my extended shock mount arms.
So right now, the front shock towers are stock link pin, right?
The front trailing arms are stock with extended lower shock mounts on the arms, right?
That's a combo that really doesn't work together. The extended mounts move the lower mount farther away from the top mount at droop, and closer at bump. Longer shocks would help at droop, but would bottom out even earlier at bump.
It would have been better to install front lower arms without the extended mounts until you add taller towers. I know you don't have a pile of parts laying around or a pile of money to buy a pile of parts. Really, I get that.
bikesndbugs wrote:
When i put the cage in i'll change the upper shock mount .
Change the rear mounts by putting them on the cage? Or do you mean fabbing tubular front upper mounts off the new front frame structure that's part of the cage?
bikesndbugs wrote:
Based on what youve said 10" is max linkpin leaves travel so considering my shock is at the bottom of the trailing arm the travel ratio should be approximately 1 to 1 so 10" shock. Maybe some kyb gas adjusts.
With stock length front trailing arms, 10" is about the max travel the link pins and the spindle will allow Whether you are using stock links and spindles, or using Combo Links. basic geometry is the limiting factor. Longer arms allow more wheel travel.
Yup...If the lower shock mount is on the lower arm even with or close to the link pin...the travel ratio will be 1:1. IF you keep the arms with the extended mounts, you will need what are called 10" shock towers to achieve that much travel. Whether you achieve that by installing a beam with 10" towers, or fabricate your own tall towers, or fab mounts off the front cagework, the upper mounts will need to be 13 or 14 inches above (and behind) the top of the upper beam tube as is done on the Warrior 10" tower beams.
If you switch your arms to some with stock shock mounts, then you can get 10" of travel with 8" towers and 8" travel shocks like me. While the conventional wisdom is that mounting the shock as close to the link pin as you can is best for best shock control, I've been extremely happy with the front on both of my cars and have never bottomed either of them out, even pre-running like I'm racing at places like Barstow. I've slammed the CRAP out of the rear...but not the front on either.
You do your own how you see fit and how you can afford. But combine parts that work together or you won't be happy.
My car (both my Baja and my Hi Jumper buggy) with the original front arms and stock lower shock mounts and 8" travel shock has 10.25" of wheel travel.
bikesndbugs wrote:
my friend found another of the bilsteins that i snapped so maybe those. He also found 3 more with snapped shafts so im assuming they do that alot. maybe not a good idea to run. A buddy of mine works with short course trucks and hate bilstien because they snap to easily.
My experience with a wide variety of brands of modern offroad shocks, is that if the shafts are snapping, especially a top brand like Bilstein, the suspension is not properly cycled to work with those shocks. Too much bump or droop travel for the shock length, or bad angles on the shocks. And putting Bilstein shocks on a suspension cycled for Fox or King (or vice-versa) is likely to have trouble with the shocks.
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yeah the extended mount arms weren't the best idea for now. but thats what was for sale and i bent my stock lowers. i plan of building tubular shock towers somewhat similar to yours. The shocks just got pulled the wrong way. I was backing up without lower limiters and the shock hit the upper arm. snapped the shaft. i was trying to go up a 2 inch curb just to get in my driveway for a better work space.
As far a where the shock mounts are ill probably build some tubing off the cage for the uppers.
As for shocks ill be buying them for when i have the extened shock mounts. right now im cruising around on blown out stock rears. ride sucks but it gets me from point a to point b. Im having issues with camber in the front too. ill set the arms the camber and then it goes out of adjustment. it appears the lower leave has side to side play. when the beam was off i pulled the leaf and weded the sides of the dimple to try to tighten it up. |
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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5802
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 6:01 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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Thanks for that link for Pullstart.
Re the front arms...As I said, I GET having to use what ya got. Been there...done that. 
Scrounge around here and STF-ORF and you just might find some stock lowers for until you can get the rest of bigger shocks and cagework and ...
There used to be a young guy on DesertRides who wound up with a surprising pile of other people's castoff but good parts for his buggy while he was in his senior year of high school.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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bikesndbugs
Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2015
Posts: 218
Location: san diego
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| Posted: Tue Mar 21, 2017 9:18 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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| dustymojave wrote: |
Thanks for that link for Pullstart.
Re the front arms...As I said, I GET having to use what ya got. Been there...done that.
Scrounge around here and STF-ORF and you just might find some stock lowers for until you can get the rest of bigger shocks and cagework and ...
There used to be a young guy on DesertRides who wound up with a surprising pile of other people's castoff but good parts for his buggy while he was in his senior year of high school. |
cage should be coming in the next few weeks |
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bikesndbugs
Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2015
Posts: 218
Location: san diego
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| Posted: Tue May 02, 2017 9:35 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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| so the car is half taken apart got the body cut to get the torsion weled to the cage. Got some suspension seats. Now im trying to come up with some wider offset wheels as mine sit in too far for my liking and i have rubbing issues. Im a bit worried about the 1600 with the extra weight of a cage. |
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bikesndbugs
Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2015
Posts: 218
Location: san diego
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| Posted: Fri May 05, 2017 4:37 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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scale is way off but thats what im thinking with the lower tubes do diagonals from the clamps to the tunnel then from the upper tubes right outside the firewall to the tunnel
then have the door bars ending at the seat mounting tubes. rear seat access is gonna suck and im not very happy about that maybe if i only do the a pillar door bar and leave the b pillar one out but that would be really weird. as far as welding around tubes if i have to ill chop the body out and reweld it as i need to paint it anyways. and i have a sheet of 18 ga i used for the floors
see anything wrong with the design
[img]https://docs.google.com/drawings/d/1E_Jg6NJyKDJ-0pS-gwRFREcgRM7M5-Awx6lBS7Deub0/pub?w=480&h=360[/img]
done better |
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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5802
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Sat May 06, 2017 7:19 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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That is not an image file. Doesn't open directly. But can be opened by cut and paste, less the bb code.
To weld cage pieces, you need to know that many areas where it would help to cut a hole in the body, the body is not necessarily just one layer. Cutting through multiple layers where it's not feasible to repair all the layers after, you could be weakening the body where for an offroad car it needs to be strong so it doesn't fatigue.
I didn't cut any such holes in the body of my Baja to weld the cage. Using a "halo hoop" for the top side bars and header bar above the windshield and floor to halo A pillar bars with a slight bend a few inches below the top allows best access for welding where the A-pillar meets the halo. Trying to do side hoops with a cross bar header is very difficult to weld the top of the joints. Same for using a front hoop with a pair of roof bars. Tough to get it welded all around. One way to do it is to separate the body from the pan to weld it. Look up Ed's Baja Bug on here and on STF. Most 5-1600s are done that way too.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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bikesndbugs
Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2015
Posts: 218
Location: san diego
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| Posted: Sat May 06, 2017 7:41 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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| dustymojave wrote: |
That is not an image file. Doesn't open directly. But can be opened by cut and paste, less the bb code.
To weld cage pieces, you need to know that many areas where it would help to cut a hole in the body, the body is not necessarily just one layer. Cutting through multiple layers where it's not feasible to repair all the layers after, you could be weakening the body where for an offroad car it needs to be strong so it doesn't fatigue.
I didn't cut any such holes in the body of my Baja to weld the cage. Using a "halo hoop" for the top side bars and header bar above the windshield and floor to halo A pillar bars with a slight bend a few inches below the top allows best access for welding where the A-pillar meets the halo. Trying to do side hoops with a cross bar header is very difficult to weld the top of the joints. Same for using a front hoop with a pair of roof bars. Tough to get it welded all around. One way to do it is to separate the body from the pan to weld it. Look up Ed's Baja Bug on here and on STF. Most 5-1600s are done that way too. |
im not sure if it was clear i planned on doing the overheads from a to b hoop somewhat into the car and maybe have the hoops end a bit short for easy of 360 degree welding not planning on doing side hoops but a completely separate a and b hoop and possibly as you said bend it back a bit right before the top of welding. the holes are just a last resort thing ill try to stay away from that |
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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5802
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Tue May 09, 2017 9:20 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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You might consider starting with a Latest Rage Class 11 cage kit. Better if the B-pillar hoop is 1-piece because the way they set up the joint at the top corners is not right and it present troubles to weld it all around the top. But the shape is pretty good.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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bikesndbugs
Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2015
Posts: 218
Location: san diego
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| Posted: Tue May 09, 2017 9:27 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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| dustymojave wrote: |
| You might consider starting with a Latest Rage Class 11 cage kit. Better if the B-pillar hoop is 1-piece because the way they set up the joint at the top corners is not right and it present troubles to weld it all around the top. But the shape is pretty good. |
im doing one peice b hoop but dont have money for the latest rage and already bought the tubing. i think ill be good welding the joints. i plan to do a cage very similar to yours. in terms of b pillar and a pillar i want to add a bit more front end support because i want to eliminate panhead. add door bars but otherwise im going very similar to your cage. ill just have my b hoop start at the torsion and leaned forward. but the overheads in yours are brought in some im assuming this is to allow for more welding room.
these pictures belong to dusty
JUST googled halo hoop so it appears to be the a hoop is one on left and one on right that run up the pillar and over the head to the 1 peice b hoop. this makes alot of sense. pretty sure thats what my friends dad wanted to do. i had it in my head manx style with a hoop for "A" and a hoop for "B" with straight overheads in between.
or is the halo hoop a hoop layed horizontally with seperate tubes going down the a pillar area. this actually seems like the easiest welding due to the welds not being tucked to roof but tucked to the windshield a bit more.
ok i see now what gauge metal are your gussets
ive got some door bar designs id like you to look at on the STF thread.http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=148621&start=525 |
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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5802
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Tue May 09, 2017 10:15 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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| bikesndbugs wrote: |
| dustymojave wrote: |
| You might consider starting with a Latest Rage Class 11 cage kit. Better if the B-pillar hoop is 1-piece because the way they set up the joint at the top corners is not right and it present troubles to weld it all around the top. But the shape is pretty good. |
im doing one peice b hoop but dont have money for the latest rage and already bought the tubing. i think ill be good welding the joints. i plan to do a cage very similar to yours. in terms of b pillar and a pillar i want to add a bit more front end support because i want to eliminate panhead. add door bars but otherwise im going very similar to your cage. ill just have my b hoop start at the torsion and leaned forward. but the overheads in yours are brought in some im assuming this is to allow for more welding room.
JUST googled halo hoop so it appears to be the a hoop is one on left and one on right that run up the pillar and over the head to the 1 peice b hoop. this makes alot of sense. pretty sure thats what my friends dad wanted to do. i had it in my head manx style with a hoop for "A" and a hoop for "B" with straight overheads in between.
or is the halo hoop a hoop layed horizontally with seperate tubes going down the a pillar area. this actually seems like the easiest welding due to the welds not being tucked to roof but tucked to the windshield a bit more.
ive got some door bar designs id like you to look at on the STF thread.http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=148621&start=525 |
YES !!!!
In a roll cage, a "halo bar" is a horizontal hoop, generally done as a 3-sided 1-piece hoop with the windshield header as the center and bends at the left and right ends of that. And the left and right fore-aft bars connected to those bends. The back ends of those left and right bars of the halo get welded to the B-pillar hoop. All this is just the way the Lynn Chenowth designed his Class 11 cage kit back in the 1970s. To this day, the only change to that design, even though it's made and sold by different people, is that the B-pillar hoop is made in 3 pieces to make shipping cheaper.
Trust me. I've tried other ways to build a Baja cage. The halo bar hoop with separate A-pillars with a mild bend a few inches below the halo IS the best style of cage in a VW Bug in terms of access for welding all around the joints.
The roll cage in my Baja started out in the early 70s as a bolt-in 4-point roll bar that the rear braces landed on the rear shelf. That's why the B-pillar hoop does not tuck closer to the body shell. It's 1.75" x .120 wall tube, and it's been there for decades. That's why I worked from that instead of re-inventing the wheel (or roll cage). The rest of the cage is 1.5" x .095 tube. If I were starting from scratch right now to build a Baja Bug cage, it would be by my design which has developed some over the last 45 years since I bought that 4-point roll bar.
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5802
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Tue May 09, 2017 11:22 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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From Chumpcar:
This is a halo bar style roll cage.
And NO...We are NOT talking about alternative lifestyle or entertainment for those of alternate sexual orientation. Race cars and Baja Bugs used Halo Bars LONG before the advent of one in Washington DC.
This is more like how I would build a new Baja Bug for myself.
This roll cage design for a VW Type 1 Bug or Baja Bug and this image are the property of PREPCo. © 2010 and 2017
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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bikesndbugs
Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2015
Posts: 218
Location: san diego
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| Posted: Wed May 10, 2017 9:50 am Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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| dustymojave wrote: |
YES !!!!
In a roll cage, a "halo bar" is a horizontal hoop, generally done as a 3-sided 1-piece hoop with the windshield header as the center and bends at the left and right ends of that. And the left and right fore-aft bars connected to those bends. The back ends of those left and right bars of the halo get welded to the B-pillar hoop. All this is just the way the Lynn Chenowth designed his Class 11 cage kit back in the 1970s. To this day, the only change to that design, even though it's made and sold by different people, is that the B-pillar hoop is made in 3 pieces to make shipping cheaper.
Trust me. I've tried other ways to build a Baja cage. The halo bar hoop with separate A-pillars with a mild bend a few inches below the halo IS the best style of cage in a VW Bug in terms of access for welding all around the joints.
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woo hoo im learning
| dustymojave wrote: |
From Chumpcar:
This is a halo bar style roll cage.
And NO...We are NOT talking about alternative lifestyle or entertainment for those of alternate sexual orientation. Race cars and Baja Bugs used Halo Bars LONG before the advent of one in Washington DC.
This is more like how I would build a new Baja Bug for myself.
This roll cage design for a VW Type 1 Bug or Baja Bug and this image are the property of PREPCo. © 2010 and 2017 |
the lower cage is similar to what i want to do.
these are some door bar ideas. the straight x would of course be best but the hardest to get in. otherwise im not sure. my design has a longer rear triangle and someday a third seat might get put in and i put a lot of stuff back there.
In the prepco the front triangulation is inside the firewall. i want to do that and some outside. im thinking about not doing the x inside the firewall and doing how the prepco is. the previously discussed tunnel tie ins and under dash "V" as your car is done.
starting to get a really solid plan on this cage. i think its gonna come out very nicely. got the people helping me on board with the full tube front as long as i do my research and that is what i have been doing.
and i got some new wheels and tires
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bikesndbugs
Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2015
Posts: 218
Location: san diego
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| Posted: Wed May 10, 2017 10:01 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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| dustymojave wrote: |
| bikesndbugs wrote: |
dusty my stock stops were cut off years ago. what would you suggest for stops as i need them but dont have them. |
You could fab something up kinda similar out of scrap metal. The original stops are made of about 1" OD x 1/4 wall tube. You could use flat plate.
Or hook & rod stops. Before the days of plate or tube shock towers when racers and hard play guys were removing the stock stops and welding them back on the side of the tower above the upper arm. Those only worked for bump, not droop. Same as the plate stops on a Warrior beam. Some Class 9 racers use a simple triangle of 1/4" plate on the side of the tower between the tubes. |
that came from another thread just didnt wan to hyjack. ill see what i can come up with for scrap. i did see a bolt adjustable droop stop in hibbards book (pg57) i really like that idea and as far as bump im not sure yet i feel better about a plate stop with a possible urethane snubber than the hook and rods. 10ga would be too thin so ill see if i can come up with something thicker. 10ga might work if i support it well. |
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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5802
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Sun May 14, 2017 1:33 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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No...10ga is NOT stout enough for front stops. It's only 0.135". I hit a cross angle rain rut once when testing with my Hi Jumper and tore off both left stops, bump and droop. And they were both made of 1/4".
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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bikesndbugs
Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2015
Posts: 218
Location: san diego
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| Posted: Mon May 15, 2017 7:15 am Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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| dustymojave wrote: |
| No...10ga is NOT stout enough for front stops. It's only 0.135". I hit a cross angle rain rut once when testing with my Hi Jumper and tore off both left stops, bump and droop. And they were both made of 1/4". |
Ok ill try to come up with some 1/4 inch.
good news though my friend is done with his sports season so now weekdays are usable to work on the bug too. |
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bikesndbugs
Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2015
Posts: 218
Location: san diego
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| Posted: Wed May 24, 2017 1:02 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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started to get some tubes in. the lowwer tubes will run under the torsion and the b pillar behind making the torsion a giant gusset . |
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dustymojave
Samba Member
Joined: January 07, 2007
Posts: 5802
Location: Lake LA, Mojave Desert, SoCal
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| Posted: Thu May 25, 2017 9:08 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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So how do you plan to attach the torsion housing to the lower tubes?
_________________
Richard
Offroading VW based cars since 1965
Tech Inspection 1963 - 2012 SCCA/SCORE/HDRA/MORE/MDR +
Retired from building Bajas, Fiberglass Buggies and Rails in the Mojave Desert. Also Sprints & Midgets, Dry Lakes, Road Race cars. All types New and Vintage
SoCalBajas Member
Kicked Cancer's A$$...1st and 2nd round...Fight ain't over yet. |
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bikesndbugs
Samba Member
Joined: January 06, 2015
Posts: 218
Location: san diego
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| Posted: Thu May 25, 2017 10:24 pm Post subject: Re: 68 baja build |
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| dustymojave wrote: |
| So how do you plan to attach the torsion housing to the lower tubes? |
basically weld the tubes to it where they touch then get a gusset cut to lay over the torsion. weld it to the torsion and the tubes to get as much weld area on it as possible. then i plan on running the tube from the rear down to the torsion over top of thst gusset creating a triangle of tubes around the torsion with a plate gusset to connect them together.
like so but with a 1/8th inch or maybe 2 1/8th gussets (side by side) one on each side of the tube. |
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