Rebuilding a German throw out bearing

[Zundfolge1432]

The Sachs as well as Eina and a few other German bearings are rebuildable items. They are not sealed bearings and because of the way the are pressed together you can carefully take apart clean,inspect,grease and return to service. This is a bucks down cheap ass way to save your money. Done as I describe there's no reason you can't get many more miles out of a quality German OE bearing. So basically you'll need an exacto knife and work carefully around the perimeter to remove a pressed in metal seal. Once the seals are out you clean and regrease carefully press seals back in and you are done. It's really no different than servicing a front wheel bearing. It works I've done it and you can too unless spending money gives you comfort. Be a mechanic fix something or be a parts changer. Better yet be a troll and show your ass.

Third pic down shows a Brazil bearing it has a smaller surface area to contact the pressure plate it's a piece of shit throw it away

[60ragtop]

Good write up, been doing this for years for the cheaper owners
_________________
Rick
Certified Mechanic by the State of Michigan in 1977
ASA certified in 1987
Certified Hunter Wheel Alignment Master Technician 1986

[glutamodo]

I thought there was already a writeup showing this in the FAQs but I'm not seeing it. This should go in there.

I don't know if I'd go as far as calling them cheap customers. I know that I would prefer to do this over using many of the replacement style release bearings I've seen over the years, and that includes the 'plastic sleeve' style Sachs bearings. These early style throwout bearings, if cared for like this, can last a very long time indeed.

[Zundfolge1432]

Alcohol and razor blades don't go together. In this case I was easing up the metal retainer when I accidentally cut myself yesterday with the xacto knife,ouch. This should drive home the point (pun intended) of practicing safety.

So I came back at it today and put three of them back together,this will be a lifetime supply for me. Using a high quality wheel bearing grease I lubricated the bearing then used various sizes including 36mm socket as a drift or seal installer to ease these metal retainers back into place.

Last photo shows em wrapped and ready to put away. The bearings you get today are made in such a way that you cannot service them like this. Planned obsolescence my friend. By now you should see it's preferable to overhaul a genuine German part than invest in an ill fitting one made to a lower standard.

[1965mt]

i just did this on a NOS bearing that I wanted fresh grease. Instead of prying the retainer out by its flange, I tapped it out from the center with a small screw driver.

[ebenasky]

I did this today and it was actually fairly easy. Instead of an razor, I used a box cutter with a new blade. I just moved around the edge of the retainer until I found a spot where it would "catch" and then slowly worked it out.

Also - after cleaning everything in solvent and blow drying - I worked in the grease into the bearing by hand. (the same as what I do with wheel bearings). I also put a layer of grease around the mount and inner collar. After getting the bearing and inner piece in place, I also added a little more grease on top of the bearings.

Once assembled - I wiped it all down with a clean rag and put it into a ziplock bag that I labeled as rebuilt. (Squeezed as much air out as I could before closing it.)

Thanks for posting this. I really don't like the new bearings and how large the inner hole is when matched against the original clutch cover.
_________________
"I don't fix 'em to look at 'em, I fix them to drive."

- '60 Beetle "Ruby"
- '70 Beetle "Peace"

[bnam]

Any pics of where exactly the xacto is inserted?
Thx!
_________________
1971 1302LS Convertible (RHD) owned since '74
Click to view image
1965 Karmann Ghia Coupe - under restoration
1966 Fiat 1500 Cabrio (with 1600 Twin cam)
1952 Citroen TA 11BL

[Zundfolge1432]

Look at the pics again those thin metal caps, go real slow do not deform the caps and work slowly. Don’t stay in one area work a circular pattern an exacto blade works well. The new bearings you buy now are not rebuildable, somebody got wise. I’m still running a rebuilt bearing in my 74 bug and have a few spares. That’s likely a lifetime supply for me.

[ebenasky]

Perhaps this will help as to where the retainer rings are located. I hope the OP doesn't mind me using their photo.

_________________
"I don't fix 'em to look at 'em, I fix them to drive."

- '60 Beetle "Ruby"
- '70 Beetle "Peace"

[bnam]

Thanks!!
_________________
1971 1302LS Convertible (RHD) owned since '74
Click to view image
1965 Karmann Ghia Coupe - under restoration
1966 Fiat 1500 Cabrio (with 1600 Twin cam)
1952 Citroen TA 11BL

[Sharp64]

If the material on the face of the OG TO bearing is gone/damaged is the TO bearing still useable?
_________________
1960 Indigo Blue Ragtop (Blue Barry)
1967 Ghia
1985 Westy Money Pit
“...some men aren't looking for anything logical, like money. They can't be bought, bullied, reasoned, or negotiated with. Some men just want to watch the world burn.” - Michael Caine

[Zundfolge1432]

Picture would help, sometimes you could work them flat using 400 grit Emory or lapping compound and a flat surface such as a pane of glass. Use a figure 8 pattern while lapping and turn it 180 every so often. Those old German bearings look better than the non rebuildable crap they sell today.

[viiking]

Yes I recently overhauled (I think) the original bearing after 83K miles on my '68. Carefully inspected the race wear and it was almost like new.

I'm like others here. I try to pull apart all the old German stuff rather than replace with new. Nearly every time, the refurbished part is better than a replacement and the only ones that aren't are due to the poor workmanship of the repairer-person.

The Germans massively over-engineered most mechanical parts of the VW most notably bearings.

[glutamodo]

The plastic facing on throwout bearings disappears over time. I'm in the process of changing the transaxle in my 62. When I pulled the throwout bearing I felt the action of the bearing which was perfect. The facing was bare metal but I'm fine with that. Yes I own a couple of new in box old-stock, old-style bearings but I saw no need to get one of them. I just transferred it over. It was working just fine up to now.
_________________
Andy T.


IMAGE NOTE: It has been noted that Chrome based browsers may have issues in displaying my vast image library, which use non-secure links and are on an FTP server. Images should still be viewable if the link is clicked though.
I do not know how to fix this. All I can say is it all works fine for me with what I use, Firefox.

[Sharp64]

[Zundfolge1432]

Here is a trick to get grease into a tight area, and yes it would work on these throw out bearings if you had one howling and didn’t have time take it apart.

I’ve loaded these syringes with different greases and can inject into a tight area as needed. This is one of those things to have in your kit and could get you back on the road in emergency situations. Look close you can see my finger to give scale to size of needle. It’s also possible to thin the grease just a little using motor oil, just a smidge.

[Sharp64]

Still requires pulling the fuggin engine. This car hates me.
_________________
1960 Indigo Blue Ragtop (Blue Barry)
1967 Ghia
1985 Westy Money Pit
“...some men aren't looking for anything logical, like money. They can't be bought, bullied, reasoned, or negotiated with. Some men just want to watch the world burn.” - Michael Caine

[Zundfolge1432]

Yes it’s a pain but if you’re working in a comfortable shop and have the tools it’s not so bad and just think of the valuable experience you gain. Soon you’ll be able to pull engine within minutes and offer encouragement to those just starting out. Goes without saying but make sure gland nut is lubed too.

[Sharp64]

[glutamodo]

Me, it's the frigging VW made stale air muffler that I have on my big-bore 40HP is the killer. Yes, it's made by VW, sturdy as hell, but that bugger, like, wedges up against the rear apron in such a way that it makes R&R a PITA. That's why I checked my current throw-out bearing during this tranny swap.

I'm actually not sure if this expensive rebuilt tranny is going to work out yet, but if it does I don't want to have to drop the engine until I finish building my next engine for the car. I'm not bothered when the plastic facing on the throwout bearing wears off. I just want its roller action to feel right, and mine does.
_________________
Andy T.


IMAGE NOTE: It has been noted that Chrome based browsers may have issues in displaying my vast image library, which use non-secure links and are on an FTP server. Images should still be viewable if the link is clicked though.
I do not know how to fix this. All I can say is it all works fine for me with what I use, Firefox.