Rebuild advice

[CarlosZ]

I've almost everything to get the bus running.

Should I install the carbs prior to or after installing the engine? Prior threads suggest to install after or only install the manifolds. I'd like to install the engine with the carbs due to the lack of a 73-79 engine hatch.

Is the copper washer the way to go with the oil pressure switch? Any specific type of washer? Will a little permatex aviation gasket be wise with or w/o the washer?

Which is the best way to route the sender wire for a CHT gauge? I don't have the CHT, but will get one soon. I was thinking of getting the sender wire and routing it prior to installing the engine. I ground the head (#3) a bit to allow the sender to sit flat on the head. Is it better to put the wire through the spark plug hole in the tin or run through the tins somehow and keep out of sight? This looks to be the better route, but much easier with the tins out. Not sure if the wire will melt from sitting on the head.

I left me distributor laying around (w/o the cap) and it got all grimey inside from me blowing the garage with my blower. Can I use some electric cleaning spray or will brushing/dusting suffice? Its an SVDA with petronix.

Thanks again for all the help. Would be lost more than I am w/o you guys/gals.

[orwell84]

From what I've read, the 142 cam is stock in name only and was never a stock grind for a bus...not to beat a dead horse, there are a lot of threads discussing cams and I readily admit I am only repeating what I've read and don't know much about cams.

[Hoody]

As far as the head temp gauge wire goes I would strongly suggest doing this before you install the engine. I drilled a small hole in the tin close but not too close to the plug hole. I used a small clip to attach the wire to the fin after the ring was seated. Then ran the wire up through hole in the tin with a small rubber grommet in the tin and used some black permatex to seal up around the wire coming through the grommet. Don't run the wires under the tins unless you want to pull the engine to address any issues down the road. Hope this helps.

[Wildthings]

[rockerarm]

[CarlosZ]

[KentABQ]

[CarlosZ]

Engine is in. Hit a wall with the CB performance dual Weber manifolds. The gaskets are too big and touching the tins. Can I cut/shave them where touching the tins? No cutting on the inside of course. While staring at the gaskets I thought, "maybe I should check the manifold also". I remember reading a while back a thread where I think aeromech mentions to make sure the manifold weren't touching the tins. I would've probably not given it a thought but guess what? They're bottoming out on the tins. What are my options at this point? I'm dreading a date with the tins again. This time the engine is in the bus. Demoralized to say the least.

[old DKP driver]

Hi Carlos,
I sent you a pm awhile back about the D D WIRE installation? and yes it
would have made more sense to install the manifolds with the engine
OUT OF THE BUS as Bill (rockerarm) also mentioned.

The gaskets from CB performance should not need trimming.So. now you should
just remove some of the screws and move the sheet metal around until
the gaskets sit Flat on the heads. :fist: Take your time.
as it will be well worth it.

A Large mirror may also help you in seeing the gasket position.

Chris
_________________
V.W.owner since 1967

[TomWesty]

[CarlosZ]

Did some Greco Roman wrestling with the right side tins and moved it the few mm it took to clear the tin. Left side was good thank god. Made some progress. It was recommended I grease the linkage ball joints. Off to buy some grease and oil. 30w or 40w good for the cam break-in?

Thanks for the words of encouragement. Almost there.

[KentABQ]

You're almost there!!! It won't be long now til we're racing down PCH...
_________________
-Kent-
1976 Riviera, 1.8l FI chrome yellow VAN - "Chloe"

"I must say, how can you be in a bad mood driving this vehicle full of vibrant color.
Cars of today are so bland in comparison. It's like driving a celebration!" ---WildIdea

Bus ownership via emoticons:
---williamM

[Busstom]

Awesome. Carbureted type 4s look so much cleaner than FI models...you can actually see the top of the case, and there is no harness bundle draped over everything with gadgets screwed to the walls of the engine compartment.

Looking forward to the break-in.

By the way, your timing scale looks a little toasted. If it's not fully legible, you may wanna try to clean it up and find the obscured marks and remark them with a Sharpie or something. I realize the worst of it's down near TDC.

[WildIdea]

^^^love that picture^^^

[udidwht]

[CarlosZ]

The scale was/is beat to crap but still looks accurate and legible. Didn't clean as it looks painted and afraid I'll remove the paint. Maybe I'll try some mild soap water.

Any suggestions on a 30w oil i can get today at a FLAP? This might be a dumb question candidate. Is the filter to be changed between all break-in oil changes? My guess is yes.

My engine has no heating parts. I'm going to run the oil breather hose (through one of the many open holes in the tin) and let it dump out somewhere under the rear of the bus. Sorry in advance to all you bikers.

CB linkage question. The bracket that holds the linkage that fits on top of the carbs has two holes. Which is a better position to mount the linkage? I think lower may be better as my throttle cable may be too short for the higher up position.

I've never used a timing light and am borrowing a tach from a friend for the cam break-in and timing. .006 valve gap? Does the timing change due to the carbs and petronix?

Thanks again!

[CarlosZ]

Looking over the wires and cannot find the oil sender wire. It's connected tho the gauge and into the loom towards the back. I don't see it anywhere in the engine compartment. The sender had a female connection terminal connected to the sender but the wire looks to have broken off a while ago. The wiring from the firewall to the ceiling by the blower has a separate loom that looks to be cut. Is this normal? There is also a wire with a hard plastic cover that is also disconnected. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

[udidwht]

[CarlosZ]

No LM-2. I'll look into getting one.

I think I found the oil sender wire. Looks to run along the coil wires and was sticking out in inch at the end of the og wiring sheath. The color is a bit off due to the oil. It looks close. What do you think?

[vic74westy]

Looks like it! The oil sender wire is blue/green on my 74. If you ground it with the ignition on your warning lamp should glow