Sealing case studs not in the manual

[Zundfolge1432]

Getting ready to build an engine here, doing case prep here's something you may have seen but its not in the manual. To build a leak free engine it's in the details so consider this. Seal the studs from the inside of the case, look close at the four dark areas in each pic these are the back side of the studs. Once the sealant dries you have eliminated 8 potential leak areas.

[KPottorff]

That's a good idea, there. Although that area is not under pump pressure, it won't hurt. Did you a gasket sealer, you know, that tar-like Permatex stuff, or epoxy?

I remember coming across a few older cases where the stud borings did not intrude into the case and came that way from the factory. If you were able to see the stud it meant that they had been over tightened during a previous rebuild. Usually that wasn't worth worrying about as a source of leaking.

[Cusser]

I might just go with blue Loctite there.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Zundfolge1432]

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

I use liquid Teflon sealant that is designed to seal machine and pipe threads, externally on/under every nut/washer/stud and thread that has a path way to oil..
So just about every one I can .. on a VW..

I dont like using a sealant in an area that has constant contact within a wet area.
Too much potential of delamination and flaking off into the oil and causing issues.

I've witnessed that scenario happen too many times..
Sealant drops/flakes off and ends up a the pump screen and starves an engine for oil..

Im sure that all depends on the sealant used.

.
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[splitjunkie]