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New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello!
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DQDan
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2016 4:31 pm    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

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I just got a bunch of parts back from the 'cleaners', they are looking good. I intend to spray some primer and then the semi gloss black to get the desired 70% gloss with some duplicolor pro enamel, as recommended on these forums.
I'm with you clatter on the stock path. For me, for this car, it's the way.
I tried to have the local engine shop do the bottom end and put in case savers for me, but the guy is always a month (at least) behind and just lost his employee, or some other excuse.

Guys, thanks for all of the support and ideas. I don't have any local air cooled guys to consult, and I could take this project a lot of different ways. The interior options with colors and fabrics is an exciting choice but I'm not sure where I want to end up. Black vinyl is just so boring!

I've got a lead on a factory 69 squareback roof rack. I'm expecting the drain channel type mounts, what would be a good price to pay for such a treasure?

Thanks in advance for the response
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Clatter
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 22, 2016 7:39 pm    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

DQDan wrote:

duplicolor pro enamel, as recommended on these forums.


Rattle bomb by any other name is still rattle bomb.
Spray paint will wash away first time it gets gas or oil on it.

Go ahead and bite the bullet, and buy some kind of paint that hardens by chemical reaction vs. drying by air.

(unless, of course, you plan on doing this all again soon)

Take everything you hear on these forums with a grain of salt.

Sure, you will get more advice here,
And more advice is better than less,
but,
Consider most of it bad... Wink
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DQDan
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2016 3:53 pm    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

Here are some pics of a 69 squareback roof rack I found, perhaps the roof has more value than the rest of the car. It is a Peru green 69 under there. It looks like a white interior (?) but lots of rust and both bumpers tweaked. At least I could get an independent rear suspension out of the deal? (and a title too!) What do ya'll think this roof rack is worth?

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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2016 5:37 pm    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

Looks like a flat four rack, not an original. Probably worth about $30
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 23, 2016 5:39 pm    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

DQDan wrote:
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Don't forget the correct type 3 lower (under) cylinder tins (aka super cool tins) for proper cooling.

Here is a pair of german type 3 lower cylinder tins I recently acquired for my build...(sitting on box)
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 2:03 pm    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

Clatter wrote:
DQDan wrote:

duplicolor pro enamel, as recommended on these forums.


Rattle bomb by any other name is still rattle bomb.
Spray paint will wash away first time it gets gas or oil on it.

Go ahead and bite the bullet, and buy some kind of paint that hardens by chemical reaction vs. drying by air.

(unless, of course, you plan on doing this all again soon)


Agreed. I'd probably use some black epoxy primer (my choice being PPG's DP series). Then shoot it with real paint and clear. This will seal it for a very long time, and once the clear has fully hardened, gas won't touch it.

Rattle bomb (spray paint) will look good for a while, but it'll also be easy to scratch, and if gas gets on it, it can lift leaving bare metal to rust. Remember, you DO live in the "rust belt" (the OP).
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DQDan
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 24, 2016 8:13 pm    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

OK, I'll pass on the rattle can for the engine stuff. I have a compressor and even a paint gun, the two part epoxy paints make sense. I'm more a wrencher than a painter, that'll be a new challenge for me.

I passed on the roof rack as I think I can make a non-whistler from home depot for less than the $400 or so the guy wants for it. If anybody else wants a shot at it, check Pittsburg PA craigslist for a 69 VW wagon. It's peru green (IIRC) and was used for a movie prop, the seller does not seem to know much about the car or it's history. While I'd like the rack and the rear suspension (and green color) it looks like more work than what I already have at half his asking price of $2500.

http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/5845536098.html

Thanks again for all your feedback guys!
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Rob356
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PostPosted: Sat Nov 26, 2016 10:33 pm    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

It's great to hear that I'm not the only one in Ohio with a T3, I just acquired a 1965 Notchback. I found it in TX no not too bad on the rust. Currently I looking for some sheetmetal, Battery box and in front of it. I will be posting it with pictures as soon as I figure out how to post! LOL old guy problems.
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DQDan
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2016 11:41 pm    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

Rob, I sent you contact info, please reply, I'd like to check out your project, and perhaps we can both get some parts from Mike (at the Hardees south of Columbus! see prior posts for explain))

I had an exciting T3 day, After much internet hunting and sending out random e-mails, I was contacted by the p/o of my car and he recalls blowing the motor in Warren, OH, (very near where I bought it) back in 2000, and he's looking in his records for a title! If he helps me out, that is one big hurdle to getting this 66 back on the road. I took some more pics with the fenders off, wouldn't it just figure one on each side of each of the door screws was stuck and rounded out. Perhaps that is a warning for what awaits as I go after the chassis/pan bolts. Well, at least those will have a bolt head on them and not Philips screws.

I've got a real question for you guys. I have SO MANY options as to how to go after the surface rust on this car. I will weld in patches anywhere it is not 100% solid, but how do you recommend treating surface rust? POR-15 3 step? Epoxy primer? undercoating? So many options!! I'm looking at places like inner fenders, which are very solid and original but a thin coat of surface rust. How about that dry area inside the rear fenders? Is that a good place for bedliner type stuff to sound deaden and protect?
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 10:09 am    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

DQDan wrote:
I took some more pics with the fenders off, wouldn't it just figure one on each side of each of the door screws was stuck and rounded out. Perhaps that is a warning for what awaits as I go after the chassis/pan bolts. Well, at least those will have a bolt head on them and not Philips screws.

I've got a real question for you guys. I have SO MANY options as to how to go after the surface rust on this car. I will weld in patches anywhere it is not 100% solid, but how do you recommend treating surface rust? POR-15 3 step? Epoxy primer? undercoating? So many options!! I'm looking at places like inner fenders, which are very solid and original but a thin coat of surface rust. How about that dry area inside the rear fenders? Is that a good place for bedliner type stuff to sound deaden and protect?
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Well plan on a couple of the pan bolts spinning or breaking off their heads I only say that as the bottom of the heater channel will probably have some rust. What will spin will be the weld nuts that are attached to the heater channel assembly.

As for a treatment for the inner fenders, I'd go with sandblasting, followedby epoxy primer. Then you could add bedliner stuff to finish sealing it. Contact Monte, as the stuff he used could have color added to it, to help more closely match the outside color (rather than just going black).
Myself, I like to sand blast those areas (where you see rust) seal them in epoxy (after you've stripped the remaining paint), then paint them with automotive paint. This has worked very well for me in the past, and if you keep it out of the salt, will last a very long time. It's also how I attack most any project I tackle, as I know it works.
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Clatter
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 02, 2016 1:02 pm    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

Anywhere you leave any rusty bits - Even the tiniest specks of rust in the bottom of craters - it will come back later.

The more poor15 or bedliner or whatever you put on top of the rust, the worse your fight will be if you every try and do it correctly again later.

The main thing is to get all of the rust out from underneath anything you put on.
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DQDan
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 07, 2016 8:16 pm    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

Thanks for the heads up on the rust. I will work hard to get it all out before going over the top of anything.

A Fender/Headlight question for you folks..

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Now that I've got my fenders off and the headlights out, it looks like I have 2 different headlight mounts in there. I'm guessing a replacement fender, Is one of them early vs late, or is this normal for a 66 with different left and right mounts inside the bucket?

Thanks for any answers!
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sqbk1971
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 8:18 am    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

Figure someone else will have a better answer, but the right pic. is what I have on my 71 Sqr.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 08, 2016 4:05 pm    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

DQDan wrote:
Thanks for the heads up on the rust. I will work hard to get it all out before going over the top of anything.

A Fender/Headlight question for you folks..
Now that I've got my fenders off and the headlights out, it looks like I have 2 different headlight mounts in there. I'm guessing a replacement fender, Is one of them early vs late, or is this normal for a 66 with different left and right mounts inside the bucket?

Thanks for any answers!


If I had to guess, I'd say 1 of them was replaced. Most of the fenders I've see look like the inside of the left fender (right one in your pic). I don't know if it makes that much of a difference or not though.

My 65 Notch doesn't have any of those tabs though, except the very bottom one. But then those fenders (on my 65) are Euro fenders.
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Tram wrote:
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DQDan
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 01, 2017 12:27 pm    Post subject: Updates Reply with quote

Hi guys, Happy New Year to ya.

Well, I've made some exciting progress that perhaps will bum a few of you out, but I located and bought (Thanks Craigslist!) a 68 square parts car. The rust on the body is extensive, well beyond the pan, front suspension collapsed and most of the body was bondo'd and painted. Here is a pic of it looking her best

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Unfortunately it is beyond salvage and we are going to part it out. The interior is pretty nice but was black and got painted red. To be honest the bumpers were the best part on the whole car and probably the reason I went thru with it. It is a fuel injected 4 speed and all the IRS will probably go on my 66. Notchback Rob has his eyes on the hood and wheels, maybe more. The skirt looks straighter than mine, and I got the rear engine mount that I needed. The seller is even going to include a rust free 72 square pan and a set of car doillies to move it around for 1200. I get a title as well! Woo Hoo!

The guy I bought it from bought this car from a COPART Auction in FL without a real inspection, and got burned bad. I will post more pics after I bring it home, and likely offer some parts up for sale or trade. Please don't be hating', I will post more pics of the structural rot if it helps ya'll sleep better. If anyone wants the body after I take everything off of it, come get it you can have it. I'm thinking these fenders full of bondo and nice paint will look good up on the shop walls.

Excited to bring home part II of Project Squareback!

OK, I realize how nice that pic looks and I bet I would be making a few of you mad for cutting up such a nice car, I better post some pics of the rot..


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 02, 2017 9:35 am    Post subject: Re: Updates Reply with quote

DQDan wrote:
Hi guys, Happy New Year to ya.

Well, I've made some exciting progress that perhaps will bum a few of you out, but I located and bought (Thanks Craigslist!) a 68 square parts car. The rust on the body is extensive, well beyond the pan, front suspension collapsed and most of the body was bondo'd and painted. Here is a pic of it looking her best

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Unfortunately it is beyond salvage and we are going to part it out. The interior is pretty nice but was black and got painted red. To be honest the bumpers were the best part on the whole car and probably the reason I went thru with it. It is a fuel injected 4 speed and all the IRS will probably go on my 66. Notchback Rob has his eyes on the hood and wheels, maybe more. The skirt looks straighter than mine, and I got the rear engine mount that I needed. The seller is even going to include a rust free 72 square pan and a set of car doillies to move it around for 1200. I get a title as well! Woo Hoo!

The guy I bought it from bought this car from a COPART Auction in FL without a real inspection, and got burned bad. I will post more pics after I bring it home, and likely offer some parts up for sale or trade. Please don't be hating', I will post more pics of the structural rot if it helps ya'll sleep better. If anyone wants the body after I take everything off of it, come get it you can have it. I'm thinking these fenders full of bondo and nice paint will look good up on the shop walls.

Excited to bring home part II of Project Squareback!

OK, I realize how nice that pic looks and I bet I would be making a few of you mad for cutting up such a nice car, I better post some pics of the rot..


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Pm sent dq!
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DQDan
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 04, 2017 11:27 pm    Post subject: Updates to my 66 Square build in Ohio Reply with quote

Hello Samba, I've got some crazy stuff going on and I thought I'd post a few pics to keep you updated, perhaps get some feedback.

For starters, the beginning of a project is figuring out what you've got and gather parts, right? Well, I've been doing a lot of that, especially the 'gathering parts' bit. Craigslist is amazing and dangerous!! So since I bought my 66 fairly complete wagon, I bought 2 more quarters, a spare hood, full length $$ Gerson green floor pans, cylinders and pistons, a MIG, ..and then I find the second car. Yep, it's a 68 FI car, rotted above the pan, floors, front suspension rusted/collapsed, but with sweet BUMPERS! Then I get looking and the car #2 was rustproofed.. Some areas are awesome! The fenders and quarters are great! Parts of the nose are way better than my crunched front corner. AND..it comes with a complete SPARE floor pan. This pan is nearly rust free. However, the VIN on the pan is 363, is that a 1973 pan? It certainly has a couple extra features not present on my pan. it's got the center seat mount, and the levers at the e-brake seem different. I'm sure there is other stuff, once I take my pan off I can do a compare.

Anyway, so many parts! I have not extracted engine #2 yet but is is a fuelie, and I really have no interest in keeping that system. I want carbs back there!! My single intake heads were cracked, would the split intake heads off the 68 be better, then I need bigger carbs/intake, right? Rats.

I've met a couple of local guys who just snagged Type 3s or have them inbound, perhaps those guys may need pans or an engine. Ratlook has made a play for my spare dash but we have not made a deal yet, anyone else want it if 'looker does not want it? doh!

I'm really adding color to my man cave, dismantling the 8 large removable panels that make up a squareback (x2) and adding a few more I've got color all over my shop walls.


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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 7:57 am    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

Yes, 363 means a 1973 pan. It's an IRS pan, while your 66 car will be swing axle.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2017 3:52 pm    Post subject: Re: New T3 Guy in Ohio, hello! Reply with quote

If you want to run the fuelie engine, but also want carbs, go to either the classifieds here, or to CB Performances website and get a set of manifolds for the dual port heads (what you're calling split port). Keep in mind that your Solex carbs WILL bolt onto Weber ICT manifolds (probably easier to find new for ICT's, but used is fine for VW Solex). You really want them to have a balance port in them (like those carried by CBPerformance), as dual single throat carbs really require a balance tube for smoother operation, and to allow the engine to idle. I only mention this as my Solex carbs in my 65 Notch are sitting on Weber ICT manifolds, so I know they work.
Yes 363 means 73 pan/car. As you noted there are pedestals on them (late style 3 point seats). You can remove them and add the normal 2 rails to match your 66. In fact ALL of your 66 suspension parts WILL bolt onto the 73 pan if you want to use it. The heater controls can be swapped to the 66 style as well.
Another thing to keep in mind is that IF you choose to go IRS, then you'll need to either modify the rear sub, or add engine hanger mounts. Both have been covered, and it's just a matter of doing a search.
I hope this helps.
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71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
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Tram wrote:
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DQDan
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 30, 2017 10:33 pm    Post subject: Progress Reply with quote

Hello folks, time for an update! Bobnotch, your suggestions will be followed, as you will see in the pics to follow I've got some dual port heads that were in a lot better shape than the old single port stuff, I am in search of manifolds and will use a tie in pipe.. TKS!

I've been hard at work -off the 66- gathering parts by parting a 68. It is a fuel injected car, if anyone wants the stuff float me a line. I'm going to use the carbs from my 66 and get some dual port intakes. Here are some pics of the carnage..

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The pic of the bent tubing is a failed attempt to make some bends for a roof rack while I was testing my new harbor freight pipe bender. Sigh, it isn't as easy as some would make it seem..

Overall, the parts car yielded a stock block, crank, dual port heads, bumpers, transmission, gauges, wheels, and probably some bodywork that will make its way to my 66. I have made significant progress with the p/o and the state of California, after submitting my $93 in late fees and signing a afidavidt that I'm taking the car out of state it seems like I am on the right track on a title to my 66!! Thanks Rob for your help splitting the blocks and deciding what we had in there!
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